V8Diesel posted:

50mm. Castor bushes have been done as has everything else.

Tyres next on list.

Cheers

GO_OFFROAD posted:

Castor bushes make for marginal castor correction to a good setting with a true 50mm lift.

What are the castor readings?

Also, I would suggest the Good Year AT, the new one, for a tough tyre, which wears well, getting rave reviews where they get worked hard loaded.

V8Diesel posted:

GO_OFFROAD, last set of wheel alignment readings say:

LEFT FRONT
Camber 0.2'
Caster 3.8'
Toe -0.2mm

RIGHT FRONT
Camber 0.0'
Caster 3.4'
Toe -0.8mm

FRONT
Cross Camber 0.1'
Cross Caster 0.4' 0.4'
Total Toe -1.0mm

I will look into the AT. Apparently the same silica compound and casing as the MTR.

V8Diesel posted:

Original were BS 265/70/16 HT's. Wore out real quick and I need a tougher tyre for genuine off road applications. 694's apparently stronger and more of a true AT.

Member - Beatit (QLD) posted:

G'day V8Diesel,

Checked my tyres last night and mine (GUII) came out with 693's standard. Have 35,000 k on the clock and they still drive and look pretty good. That's the reason for my response.

Looking at 394's to retyre my trailer, what price are they asking out your way? This will give me some basis for discussion with my local tyre people

Kind regards

V8Diesel posted:

Beatit, I've pestered Beaurepaires down to $230ea F+B in 285/75/16 and a mate of mine can do 'em for $225 but that's not a 'public' price..

V8Diesel posted:

Not sure about the rims. Checked them out thoroughly and looked for cracks but that is about it. they seem to spin up fine.

Have done a wheel fornt to back swap and also put the 15" rims and tyres off my Landcruiser but they are muddies and I'm not 100% convinced as to their roundness either.

V8Diesel posted:

Been there, done that :-)

Vibration got better, but still there unfortunately. Rotated tyres on rim as well. The fact my Coopers are requiring this sort of attention in the first place worries me.

Member - Captain (WA) posted:

I had my Cooper ST 285/75'styres originally fitted and balanced by Richards Tyre Power. Had them on for 36,000kms now and only had them re-balanced once (I rotate every 5,000km, when I change the oil).

Must say I am very happy with the lack of issues I have with my tyres, but also haven't found any problems balancing Cooper tyres.

Cheers

Captain

GO_OFFROAD posted:

You wouldnt class a tyre which comes with a warranty on paper for a great distance as being a hard tyre?

You only have to drive on them in the wet to see how "hard" they are.......

They certainly arent in the top 5 decent tyres to fit, and we do 40+ a week, as well as the other brands, and I have had most of them on my car, but the average Cooper tyre buyer is always more interested in the KM warranty than the tyres performance anyway, which at least shows the best marketed tyre in Aus has marketing that is working anyway.........

V8Diesel posted:

GO_OFFROAD, the saga continues. What tyres would you recomend? I'm worried that the Coopers, BFG's and MTR's may be too hard a compound for this troublesome GU. As you point out, 90,000km's guaranteed would equate to a 'tungsten carbide' compound I'd think.

I'd rather do 40,000km's smooth k's, than 80,000 vibrating ones. Still require a practical, capable off road tyre. Not too concerned with grip or agressive tread patterns (WA), just strong casings, construction etc.

MrBitchi posted:

Personally I think Coopers are brilliant in the wet. Have been in the odd tropical downpour or two with them and their grip is fantastic.

Good to fit? I'll take your word on that as I don't fit tyres for a living. I can only repeat that over 3 sets I've had no problems with them.

GO_OFFROAD posted:

The exception will always prove the rule.

Guess I had to find one who thought they were good on wet bitumen.

V8Diesel posted:

Not nagging at all mate, All help greatly appreciated. The list to date......

New Koni shocks.
New Lovells springs.
New 4-ways RTC damper (tried both with and without spring)
Castor kit.
New wheel bearings (checked no less than 3 times)
4 wheel balances including a 'Road Force' balance (best in WA) - specifically requested tyres / wheels be checked for 'roundness' and 'trueness' as you suggested. Tried at various speeds to look for signs of delamination too.
Re-machined front discs and new Bendix 4 x 4 pads.
Urethane panhard rod bushes.
2 x wheel alignments.
New oils all round. Triple checked correct viscosity.
Uni joints checked and lubed.
Various tyre pressures tried - measured on the same quality gauge.
Back to WA Suspension 4 times.
Giant Nissan once.

Huge improvement (as you'd expect) in every aspect of the vehicles performance so I'm still happy. Wobble is now 95% gone, but not completely. Tyres are next on the list. My reason for posting was wondering if the Coopers "advice" I received from a local tyre dealer was factual, or just a sales pitch for Toyo. Wanted to get opinions before forking out $1,600 for a new set.

V8Diesel posted:

Brett - Strewth do I hear you brother!!!! AMEN to that!!!!

I have a 1985 (20 years old!) Toyota HJ75 as well that drives great. Big muddies on it etc. No worries, just steers itself.

This is my first Nissan. Done 170,000km's no drama's at all. Brilliant in fact, but now this f&*%@!$g wobble's started. Same deal since 1988 apparently!!!!!!! Someone desperately needs a swift kick up the date and a crash course in backhanders in the Nissan design department. Not good enough, it's a f&%*#$g joke.

The solution I'm seriously considering is buying a 50,000km's ex-governemnt Toyota HZJ105 at tax time each and every year. Buy a good turbo kit, winch and bar, roof rack and swap it all over each year on to the new one. Going for around $35,000 in A1 nick and auctioning 5 - 10 of them every Wednesday. Take your pick from the bunch. Probably break pretty close to even I'd say.

Got to be better than this misery.

Big Woody posted:

Thanks for your reply V8,

Actually, after thinking more about it last night. About 18months ago I was doing searches on Google and found whole website pages totally taken up by Nissan owners on forums who were trying to fix this shimmy. Some did but most didn't.
Some good did come of it though, as it was by doing these searches that I found the ExploreOz website as this topic must go back, as you say, to 1988.

Cheers,
Brett

V8Diesel posted:

BFG AT's are certainly getting a good wrap on this post.

V8Diesel posted:

New wheel bearings, adjusted and checked no less than 3 times by seperate specialists.

New damper, tried with a RTC spring and without. Bushes checked too.

GO_OFFROAD posted:

And your solution to fix the castor wobble issue if the standard bushes are refitted would then be????

Eric Experience. posted:

Go_offroad.
Because the bushes are so important I would move the rear attatchment piont to correct the castor, but that would be to difficult for the average punter so I guess the next best would be to take it to a truck alignment specialist and get the arms bent to the correct angle, after all that is how the caster is set on the prototype vehicles. Eric.

GO_OFFROAD posted:

I agree with that, and have bent 80 arms previously to adjust castor, though there is an aftermarket bolt on kit to drop the back of the front arms for nissans now.

But have also found the 80 series bushes actually work better in the nissan arms, at the diff end.