Member - Bernie. (Vic) replied:

Hi essjay can't help with your question.
But no need to yell ( Capital letters)

Cheers

Elsewhere9 replied:

Hi Essjay,

Is it petrol or diesel? They are chalk and cheese.

I have a 95 diesel (I think they are similar to 99) and it performs well on and off road, although the acceleration leaves something to be desired. Cruises at the speed limit OK. We now also tow a camper trailer (over 1100kg) without a problem (just a bit slow on hills).

Very good off road compared to the petrol. With the petrol you need to keep the revs up to avoid stalling, but the diesel just crawls over obstacles. Pajeros tend to lift a front wheel due to the torsion bar suspension (limited wheel travel), but they keep on going.

Hope this helps,
Greg

pickle replied:

Nl Pajero is the last of the series 2 pajs.
They really had their act together by the time this series came out. They are good mannered on the road (thats why the ladies liked em) and quite capable offroad.
Buy it ...you wont regret it....unless you pay too much.
Ask the question here
http://www.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/PajeroForum.htm
Dave

Member - Wesley S (WA) replied:

Hi Essjay,

What State are you in?

old-plodder replied:

Hi essjay,

Besides the comments above:

Yep, does lift front wheels. Rear LSD helps.

Friend just bought a 99 3.5l petrol with 135,000k, 6 months ago off a dealer.
Starting to find the problems.
The vacuum control to the front diff is playing up a little. Keeps dropping into 4wd or is hard to engage/disengage. Look under the bonnet on the driver side mudguard for the two little vacuuum switches with the small hoses leading to them.
To check engage and disengage 4wd a few times while driving, should happen reasonably smooothly with the dash lights only flashing a few times. Flashing lights means that the 4wd system isn't in yet, but waiting for the right moment to mesh everything. It should only take a few seconds. You can change from 2wd while travelling to 4wd high unlocked centre diff at higher speeds like 80km/hr, but might result in a clunk. Read the instructions.

He also fould quite a few deep scrapes under the rear diff, and a good dent in the front of the fuel tank. Assume you will be doing a good under body check anyway.

Make sure the timing belt has been done every 100,000k.

Just did an oil change for the the g/box and diffs and it has improved. Wasn't too bad before, but it seems an area poeple miss servicing at 130,000 as per the book.

A click/clack sound has developed which could be front CV joints or lower ball joints. Or might just be something simple. Don't know yet.

I find he has more torque down low between idle and 1500rpm than my diesel, until my turbo cuts in :-).

I have a 96 2.8 diesel (238,000k) and it suits us fine for town use and the one or two trips a year out west, and a bit of 4wding around Brisy. Hasn't been on the beach too often, but the petrol would be better than the diesel on the soft sand.

I just had to replace the aeon rubber springs in the rear coils. Gone completely. Well for $300.00 plus for the pair from Mitsubishi, I just put in airbags.

Sapper replied:

Had an NL for 5 years. Two sets of tyres, brake pads, shocks and it still kept ging. 165,000Km. Went wherever I wanted to go and then some. Bogged only once, my fault, fortunately sand. I had a Finer filter and hiclones fitted as well as a 2 1/4 in headers and exhaust. Made it breathe a lot better. Mainly got around 11.8 L/100Km.

I now have an NP 2004 series.

Sapper