traveller2 replied:

I'd be inclined to remove the outboard and carry it in the vehicle, then the trailer should be ok with basically an empty boat, Fit 14" wheels/tyres (spares much more available in remote areas), shockers wouldn't go astray but might be hard to fit, extra padding and additional tiedowns wouldn't go astray either.
Very few boat trailers are designed for much more than the trip to the boat ramp from suburbia.
Depending on the trailer it may be easier to make a heavy rectangular frame with cruiser leaves (some removed to soften the ride), solid axle and 16" rims compatible with the tow vehicle. After the trip the original setup can be restored.

Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses replied:

Bob, I am no specialist on what you have as a question but agree mostly with the answers above. I don't even have a boat larger than my kayak. Al-Ko have rebound spring packs that may so some extent obviate the need for shockers and as you would have a relatively light load should cope. They are actaully listed as an Outback Pack and have some damping built in. I reckon the suggested 14" or better still 15" is the way to go and to reduce the pressures to reduce shocks. I think I would rather have the boat on top..........

Jolly replied:

Bob&Deb,

Mate i would not even consider taking a "Standard" boat trailer up the Gibb River road.
I live in Broome and spent 6 years working along the road as a Field Mechanic for the main roads dept, During the busy season i would say that 4-5 nights a week after finishing work i would be carrying out repairs to trailers/vehicles etc off people that had found them selves in a spot of bother.
Any one thats lives up here and loves there fishing end up getting there own custom made trailers H/D trailers made.
Take a normal trailer up there and it's going to end in tears..
Jolly.

Drew - Karratha replied:

If your client does decide to take the standard trailer ensure he has spare springs, spring hangers, rollers, hubs, bearings, wheels and tyres and the ability to carry out 12V welding as he will probably need most of it...... It would probably also be a good idea to make up a for sale ad or the boat before you go as I would think the hull would be stuffed after 600km of corrigations on a standard trailer.
Drew

Coops (Kalgoorlie) replied:

I have to agree with Jolly on this one.
If your client absolutely has to drag a boat all through the Kimberley I would only recommend a tinnie sitting on a roof rack. That way the boat is upside down and the corrugations will only damage to topside of the boat and not underneath.
There's trailer parts strewn all over GRR by end of season and that doesn't take into account all the stress fractures that have to get repaired back at home.
I would make use of the fishing charters that are readily available in this part of the world before dragging my own.
Hope this helps

Bob of KAOS replied:

Bob

When I read your question I thought there might be some negative answers.

I agree with the advice above not to even dream of taking a boat on a standard trailer to the Kimberley.

For a start, the tyres on the trailer won't last 5 minutes on the GRR.
The back of the boat is going to hit the road repeatedly on crossings and jumpups. The trailer will fall apart. The boat and motor will be damaged.

Member - Poppy (QLD) replied:

Hi Bob
Agree with all other replies, but if you do beef up the trailer the strongest part of the boat is the keel so you need to put a full length skid on the trailer to support the boat along the keel.
Don't leave the weight supported by rollers or you will be asking for trouble.
I see lots of boats with outboards still attached on Cape rd but you must have a good support bracket and drive to the conditions.
Having said all that I would still be a bit concerned about towing, as the road conditions can vary greatly from season to season.
Cheers Poppy