traveller2 replied:

If it is anything like the Toyota's there probably isn't any adjustment.
Make sure there is a whisker of free play at the slave cylinder (you may be able to lossen it's mounts enough).
We just had a 100 series turbo out in the Simpson desert whose clutch started to slip west of Poeppels. He managed to nurse it into Birdsville and then all the way home to Sydney.
Yes it slipped on the big climbs over the mountains but with careful use of the throttle and keeping the truck as light as possible you should be able to get it home. I guess it depends on how much it is slipping initially.

nisso replied:

No Martin,no adjustment on clutch.

Footloose replied:

A slipping clutch is a guessing game. It could work for quite a few km and get you home, or just leave you stranded. There is no adjustment on yours.
One of my vehicles started to intermitently slip in WA. It got me home to Qld with an increasing amount of slip, and then into the carport where it died big time.
My current series 80 has 200K on it, and one of the things I had done before venturing out was...you guessed it...a new clutch.

Bilbo replied:

Gentlemen, gentlemen,

There IS clutch adjustment on a 1999 GU Nissan - or any other Nissan car. Have a look under the dashboard at the clutch pedal. You'll see a pushrod that goes from the pedal to the back of the clutch master cylinder. The push rod has a locknut on it and part of of the rod is knurled.

To adjust it, slacken the lock nut and turn the pushrod in (or out) of the clutch pedal yoke. It is a very fine adjustment. When I recently had the Chev V8 fitted to my GU, the clutch dragged something shocking. I turned the pushrod, as above, for about 7/8 of a full turn and now the clutch releases perfectly and I can now change gear without a crunch!

The pedal adjustment should be done so that there is a minimum of free play at the pedal - say about 3/4 inch maximum - before the clutch spring/hydraulic pressure is felt.

However, if you already have free play at the pedal, it could be that the clutch pressure plate is worn out and has lost it's ability to hold the pressure on the clutch driven plate. If that's the case, then no amount of any type of adjustment will cure it. It's a new clutch I'm afraid.

But try and back off the pushrod if there's no free play in the pedal first.

Shorten the pushrod to reduce clutch slip and lengthen it reduce clutch drag. The latter is the term used when a clutch does fully release and causes difficult gear changes. Be careful, it doesn't take much turning to have a big effect. Plus, it's not easy access to the nut and knurled pushrod - lie on yer back upside down to do it. Use a 12 mm open ended spanner and a pair of long nose pliers on the rod. But, you can turn the rod with yer fingers if it's not too tight

DO NOT whatever you do, slacken the clutch master cylinder retaining bolts on the firewall in order to get some free play at the pedal. This will result in you snapping the master cylinder aluminium casting completely. Believe me, I've done it! I once forgot to fully tighten these on my old Ford Zodiac back in the UK years ago, and bingo, half way home the master cylinder snapped off the firewall. No clutch at al.

Bilbo

Slapnut replied:

Martin & Bilbo,

The adjustment rod under the dash only adjusts the clutch pedal free play and the pedal engagement height at which the clutch releases or engages. There is no adjustment for gaining extra "grip" on the clutch plates that's the whole idea of the hydraulic adjusting system so that when the clutch plates wear there is no change in either pedal free play or engagement height.

Just nurse it home and change it out asap.

Cheers
Keith