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GU rear brakes

Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 12:52

mattie

Hi
has anyone adjusted the load valve for the rear brakes?
There is a flap with an allen keyed bolt through it which is attached to the suspension with a spring, if this bolt adjusts the load braking valve which way do i adjust it?
When the camper trailer is in tow we have limited braking esspecialy on gravel as the front wheels skid easily hence not making the overload brake system work effectively this situation has been made worse by fitting springs that lift it back up level when loaded(not as much sag in the rear to alter the braking valve)

Mattie
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ThreadID: 36350 Replies: 4
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AnswerID: 186502   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 13:50

hl replied:

Hi,
I wouldn't fiddle with that as it won't solve your problem. If your front wheels lock up easily I would firstly check the load on the tow ball. Sounds like it is way too high.
Cheers
Reply 1 of 4
AnswerID: 186504   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 14:05

Leroy replied:

Usually when you get a lift kit installed the brake bias valve is adjusted. I'm pretty sure ARB adjust this when they do lifts as should others. I would go back and have a chat to your suspension supplier for a start.

Leroy
Reply 2 of 4
FollowupID: 443575   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 15:09

blown_zd30 posted:

Leroy, that makes plenty of sense. Sometime after my lift kit went in I noticed a significant difference in the wear on the rear brake pads v's the front ones, it was due to the incorrect amounts of braking power being applied from front to back. I took it back to the suspension place and they fitted a modified bracket to the base of the brake proportioning valve to increase it's height by the same height of the lift. Been fine ever since.
Cheers
Brad
FollowUp 1 of 3
FollowupID: 443583   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 16:12

Truckster (Vic) posted:

correct - for each inch you go up on suspension you should go similar with this.
FollowUp 2 of 3
FollowupID: 443587   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 16:16

Member - Roachie (SA) posted:

Bloody hell......afaik mine has never had any adjustment/additional length added to that arm. Another bloody job to do. I recently had to have my rear brake pads replaced (about 190,000klm; which I thought wasn't too bad actually), so maybe I'll get better from the newish ones if I "lengthen my bar".......(strewth i hope Annette doesn't read this!!!!)

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FollowUp 3 of 3
AnswerID: 186515   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 01, 2006 at 15:55

JamieMac replied:

I have just done this and some trial and error braking post fitting a 2.5 inch lift.

I installed and extension to the mount on the diff to place the fixed arm that the spring is on about 2.5 inches higher. I used a length of flat bar and drilled appropriate holes to fit it together. I used flat bar just in case there is any contact due to the increased height above the axle.

Response is similar to original if the axle end of spring is in correct position to the lever when car is empty and static. But the stiffer sprins in lift do effect it.

This is as good as it gets unless you remove and T piece the brake lines or install a manual adjuster to the bias lever. Both of which I considered before going this way.

I would not play with the allen key setting.

Cheers
JamieMac
Reply 3 of 4
AnswerID: 187179   Submitted: Friday, Aug 04, 2006 at 21:16

mattie replied:

Hi
thanks for the replies i will have to have another look at the set up because the spring i thought tensions the load valve so i removed the spring which i though would create more braking on the rear and it did the opposite.
I forgot to say before that the suspension fitter did not adjust the valve (because i thought i would seek some advise as to not waste as much time doing it).

Mattie
Reply 4 of 4
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