ro-dah-o (WA) replied:

Someone else may be able to confirm this, but a friend in my club I was talking to on the weekend, when asked 'what happened to your lightforce mate?' muttered 'rattled off, damn lock nut couldnt put it back on, bloody kangaroo....'

Hope it helps. I would ask when you pick them up. I have seen them sold for cibies, unsure as to whether they would fit. If all else fails, take to them with the mig!!

madcow replied:

I'm not sure but IPF lights have a locknut setup available and depending on the thread size they may suit. Or use nylock nuts instead, they are a bit of a pain to put on but if they do come loose they will not rattle off.

Turist (The Original One) replied:

This is a system that I have employed.
Will only stop them if you or an honest person are in hearing range of the vehicle.
Most car alarm systems have a bonnet switch circuit that is "normally open"
Run a fine figure 8 cable, small speaker wire is ok, parallel to the driving light cables, take it right to the inside of the lamp housings and arrange it to form a continious circuit back to a normally open relay connected to the bonnet switch circuit that will trigger your alarms when the lights are removed.

Nobody has tried to pinh mine so I don't know how well it will work but it will make a lot of noise as soon as the wires are cut.

Bob

Member - MUZBRY VIC) replied:

Gday
The last set that i fitted , was drilled and a roll pin inserted through the nut and bolt.....nothing will stop a good thief- but you can slow them down

Member - Mike DID replied:

Put a plastic mouldable epoxy (PlastiBond) over the nuts. This can be removed using a soldering iron, but the average thief won't take that time.

Member - Sam (NSW) replied:

Yes you can get lock nuts. I got a set for my XGT's.

Any 4wd store or locksmith should be able to provide them.

There was a post on here a while back about further thief proofing Lightforce lights.

Waynepd (NSW) replied:

Thieving, I am afraid its the 2nd oldest profession in the human race.
Whatever we have, some other bastard thinks they need it more than we do.

I haven't secured my LF 170's but I will be looking at them now, i have just been lucky I guess...

Member - Brian H (QLD) replied:

Just a thought ........... I have not seen how they are fitted yet to get mine but would a lock nut then heat shrink placed over the remaining thread? Same sort of stuff used over wires to waterproof them

I would assume it would be a bitch to get a nut off with this tuff on unless you heat it up and remove it?

Interested if you think this would work?

Brian

Member - Roachie (SA) replied:

Yep I know how ya mate feels. I had my Blitz 240's knocked off at Narrandera last Year (june.......a sunday night while my mum was drawing her last breaths at the Wagga hospital....she passed away at 6am). When my brother called from the hospital to let us know the bad news, we drove the hour to Wagga and I didn't notice till later on (on the way home) that the friggin lights were'nt there.

I bought a new set and have drilled a hole through the bolt and put a small padlock on each one. It wouldn't take much to cut the padlock, but would be bloody hard to get a pair of bolt cutters or angle grinder in to reach the lock.

Also, with the 240's (and some other types of lights too, including the XGTs), there is a horizontal bolt that holds the light's body onto the base bracket. If the @rseholes want to, they can just undo that bolt too. In the case of the Blitz and the 170's and 140's, they can also just unscrew the whole light body (not much use to them without the rest though).

I'm still angry about my lights going missing and would happily strangle the pr!ck that grabbed 'em!!!

stans truck replied:

Thanks to all for your comments will ask tjm about locking nuts when pick my lights today many thanks regards Stan

blown4by replied:

When you fit your lights fit a piece of 50 x 6 flat bar under the nut (like a big washer). Get another piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in it that just fits snug over the flats on the nut so you can't get a socket or ring spanner on the nut when the flat bar is slipped over it. You can then fit two cup head bolts to the pre- (stack) drilled pieces of flat bar with the cup heads facing down or if you think the thief will be persistent enough to still flog them (if he has two different size spanners with him) you can make the second flat bar hinged to the first so after the nut is done up you hinge the flat bar shut over the nut and put a big enough padlock on it. Chances are he won't have brought bolt cutters as well. If the two lamps are mounted such that no obstructions are between them as is often the case under a 4x4 bullbar then you can use one long flat bar and one lock. There are plenty of variations to this system such as if you don't like the hinge idea you could devise other means to secure the opposite end of the flat bar that is not locked and if you don't like the cup bolt idea you could fit socket head cap screws from the top flat bar tapped into the second so at night the thief is unable to see how the flat bar covering the nut is held in place. All sounds complicated but is really very simple and I have done it myself and am surprised no one has marketed such a thing but volumes are probably too low and scungy bastards like me would copy it and make it at home anyway. 240 volts is the best prevention but there are laws against that (apparently)

SPIKE replied:

I to have LF 170 my solution is to drill and tap 6mm hole in nutand fit s/s crub screw this is what l have done so far so good.
hope this helps