95' Mits Triton overheating

Submitted: Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 20:45
ThreadID: 40740 Views:8620 Replies:7 FollowUps:8
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Hi crew.
I have a 95' Triton with 4D56 turbodiesel with a chronic overheating problem. This is the first summer I have owned the vehicle and living in Alice Springs it gets hot. The car only gets hot when travelling on the highway over 100km/h, so far I have fitted new waterpump, 3 row radiator, flushed block, relocated d/lights and winchbox to maximise air flow through radiator, topped up viscous hub with toyota viscous oil, checked a/c condenser etc for blockages, confirmed temp gauge accuracy with temp gun (top tank gets to 105deg c with a 20deg c drop accross the core), checked pump timing, checked thermostat operation(genuine) Everything on the engine is standard and the car has done 130,000km, Im not loosing any coolant but I can hear localised boiling in the engine when I shut it down, the bottom rad hose feels firm so i doubt it is collapsing, I run CAT DEO 15w40 oil and change it regularly. This problem has got me stumped so any thoughts or suggestions would be great, thank you
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Reply By: CLC50 - Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 21:08

Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 21:08
Remove the Thermostat, I would Try as they are to warm motor up on Cold Starts.& in the North it is hot enough ,& they do restrict the water flow,or you might have a Air pocket in the system,as you seem to have covered most other.Check your oil Filters, I replace my every 5000 Klms with new Oil also.

AnswerID: 212628

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:03

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:03
Thank you for your reply, The oil filter is replaced every 5000km with the oil, I would like to try and keep the thermostat in if i can as it does get down to -5deg c here in the dry season and it can have severe effects on engine wear if the engine can not reach opperating temp quick enough. thank you
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FollowupID: 472891

Reply By: Kiwi Kia - Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 21:30

Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 21:30
Are you sure that there is something wrong ? With a pressure cap on the radiator you can get some local boiling after shut down as you don't have the fan running.
AnswerID: 212631

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:00

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:00
Thank you for your reply, I am pretty sure there is a problem as when i pull up when the temp rises to hot on the gauge and point the heat gun at the top tank on the radiator it is 105deg c, this is even on a 25deg c day with no load sitting on 110km/h.
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FollowupID: 472890

Reply By: Eric Experience. - Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 22:30

Sunday, Dec 31, 2006 at 22:30
jay.
Interesting problem. The things left to check are the fan belt and pulleys. You should be able to pull as hard as you can on the alternator fan without the pulley slipping. The next is the viscous hub, you have topped it up but it may have a mechanical problem. when you pull up with a hot motor the fan should feel stiffer to rotate than when it is cold. If you are not sure about the hub make a solid drive by cutting a piece of sheet steel about 150 square drill a 14 hole in the centre and the four holes for the water pump flange then a hole in each corner of the sheet, place the sheet between the pump pulley and the fan then cable tie's from the corner of the sheet around the fan blades, this will make the fan run faster than normal and will be noisy but it will prove a point . good luck Eric.
AnswerID: 212635

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:09

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 00:09
Thank you for your reply Eric, the fan does not seam to be any stiffer when i pull-up to check temp so i will try your suggestion, I have actualy been told be the installer of the 3 row radiator that a locked fan can actualy be a restrictor for air flow but I will try your idea and let you know how it goes, the alt belt is tentioned correctly and can not free spin. Thank you for your time.
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FollowupID: 472892

Reply By: Member - Bucky (VIC) - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 07:15

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 07:15
Tried " de-gunking " your engine, with that Chem_tec " degunker "
they advertise it in the magazines.. and re-check your botton radiator hose, a lot of the time they only close when they get hot and soft, and under load, ,,, which by looking under the bonnet, you will not pick up !
Cheers
Bucky
AnswerID: 212663

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:12

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:12
Thanks for your reply, block and radiator are completely gunk free, will replace bottom rad hose with spring and see how it goes, thank you.
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FollowupID: 472941

Follow Up By: Member - Bucky (VIC) - Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 04:36

Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 04:36
Jay
I meant de_coke the engine, as well

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FollowupID: 473009

Reply By: Kiwi Kia - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 07:29

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 07:29
When you take the radiator cap off and look straight down inside the radiator what do the tubes look like ? Is there any calcium build up from using hard water ?

From a previous question and answer I would be having a good look at the viscous fan.
AnswerID: 212665

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:10

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:10
Thanks for your reply, Radiator is brand new and coolant is being used, will try locking fan hub. thank you for your time.
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FollowupID: 472940

Reply By: Member - Tour Boy- Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 09:40

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 09:40
Hi, the next thing that I would check especially on a turboed engine is if the turbo is operating correctly and to make sure the motor isn't being over fuelled as this will cause overheating and possibly holes in the pistons down the track.
Happy new year.
Tour Boy
Cheers,
Dave
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AnswerID: 212679

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:17

Monday, Jan 01, 2007 at 14:17
Thanks for your reply. I have acctualy screwed the max fuel screw in from standard to cut fuel back but this made no difference, the air/fuel ratio compensator on top of the pump has been tweeked to give it a bit more go of the bottom but this should not affect it under load at higher rpm, thanks for your time
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FollowupID: 472944

Reply By: peteC - Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 12:37

Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 12:37
Jay, I have the identical Triton and it does get hot as well. Mine is a 94 model and just clicked over 90,000km. It is all standard and the motor has never been touched apart from the 5000km oil/filter changes and I have replaced the coolant once. It is the way they are, but mine got a little worse when I fitted a second battery. this then got me thinking, so after taking it for a sprint on the beach I let it idle and see how long it took to cool down. After 5 minutes it was a little cooler but still hot. I lifted the bonnet and it cooled down in about 2 minutes. What I believe is happening is that the air flowing thru from the radiator cannot get out from the engine bay. Try putting your hand above the fan and giving it a rev. You will feel the air pushing your hand up with some force. Then picture where the air would go when the bonnet is down and you will see there isnt much room for it to escape. When I put the second battery in the exact position on the left side of the car as the original I have blocked even more room for the air to get out. I was think about fitting a vent scoop in the bonnet above the fan, but due to the frame of the bonnet, I have been game enough to try. With you living in the hot outback try taking the bonnet off on a strech of road you know it would normally get hot on, this would prove the theory pretty quick. I was also going to get a 9inch elect fan and put on the outside, down the bottom of the radiator. The noise you are hearing will be the air coming back from the motor and back into the air filter when it idles making the water valve flap madly. Put your hand under the air canister and there is a rubber valve that lets the water out, and you will feel it flapping. Another thing I was going to try for the heat issue was to disconnect the breather pipe from the top of the tappet cover. If you unplug this from your air inlet pipe you will feel a lot of hot air comming out of the engine and into the air inlet. This effectivley is putting quite a lot of heat into the engine before the fuel is burnt.
AnswerID: 212843

Follow Up By: Jay NT - Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 19:46

Tuesday, Jan 02, 2007 at 19:46
Hi Pete.
Thanks for your reply, I have also fitted a second battery in the same place as you and your theory makes sense, will try removing bonnet and see how it goes but my problem sounds exactly the same as yours, I have tested and the bottom rad hose is not collapsing and I have seperated the viscous hub again to check for any mechanical faults but all looks ok so I have added 2 more tubes of Toyota viscous hub oil ($25) to fill the hub up completely. As for the breather from the engine I doubt that would make any difference with the amount of air getting forced into the engine. Chech the fan hub oil in yours as when i pulled mine apart it had stuff all oil in it along with the radiator cores, good to know some one else is having the same problems as me.
Cheers
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FollowupID: 473099

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