<span class="highlight">Battery</span> Monitors

Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:05
ThreadID: 41264 Views:4103 Replies:11 FollowUps:9
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OK I am playing devils advocate here but......I am of the opinion that battery monitors will only report on one battery without a switch and with a switch the monitor will only supply load test info for one. If I have a dual battery system with a dedicated start battery and a dedicated accessory battery, I know the start battery is good as I keep up my maintenance so its safe. If I am camping and I flatten my accessory battery who really cares....I go for a run and charge it up. I should really be kicked up the bum for being silly enough for sitting in the one spot running all my accessories long enough to flatten the battery and for not understanding in advance how much I am drawing from that battery and how long it should last in the first place....shouldn't I???

I guess my question is, do I really need a monitor???

Any comments.

Toytruck
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Reply By: Geoff (Newcastle, NSW) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:18

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:18
Hi Toy,
If you run the auxilliary battery down to nothing often enough you'll bugger it quick smart.

Now to monitoring, One of the quickest and cheapest methods when you are stationary is a $5 Dick Smith, Jaycar or Bunnings multimeter. Just check the voltage and if it's down to say 11.5 volts give it a charge.

The meter has other uses around the vehicle too.

A word of safety, I'd be reluctant to wave a $5 meter anywhere near 240 volts.

Geoff
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Follow Up By: fishtail - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:43

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:43
Just expanding on this idea - we hard wired the multimeter into the batteries (mounted it next to the gear lever) via a rotary switch and the driver then has the ability to check batteries while driving confirming charging rates as well when switched off at camp site. Worked a treat on our triple battery system.
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 15:51

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 15:51
I've had bad experiences with those El Cheapo meters Geoff - had two of them decide 13V was actually 11V - there is a cal pot inside but I suspect their voltage reference is pretty crappy - I suggest people spend a bit more and go for the $25 ones - which often have a (poorish :) temperature sensor too.

As for 240V and the $10 stuff... agree completely don't connect those things to 240V!

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: Geoff (Newcastle, NSW) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 15:57

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 15:57
Fair call Mike, for $5 I'd imagine the design phase would be short to say the least and at a guess testing would take even less time.

One of the advantages of working for a company that makes high end test equipment is you're insulated from those sorts of things.

Geoff
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Reply By: RosscoH - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:20

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:20
Hi Toytruck,
Have a look at the Opposite Lock website, they have a unit called Chargemaster, Battery isolator and monitor for both batteries that all just plugs together. The monitor is good in the way that it has LED monitor for both batteries and if you do have a failure on the start battery it has a button override to bring the secondary battery in to start the vehicle.
Cheers RosscoH
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Follow Up By: Member - Craig D (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:36

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 14:36
I'll second the Charge Master monitor, the one that just monitors two batteries. As my aux batts are in the camper, the monitor lets me know when my Redarc Smart Start switches in to charge them and also monitors the starting battery as well. I also like the fact that it has mutable alarm functions and the LEDs can also be turned off. Admittedly, they are not cheap, but I am more than happy with this unit as an aid.

Regards,
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Reply By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 16:47

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 16:47
I used to have a monitor in the cab which showed me my charge voltage (off the alternator) - I now have one at the back of the car built into the drawers (frame) - best thing I've ever done - every time I get a beer I can see it's "OK" or "not OK" - I'm on top of issues much quicker than before when I had to "go to the cab to look"
Cheers,

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Reply By: drivesafe - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:23

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:23
In al fairness, to be able to get anywhere near an accurate reading of the state of your batteries, you need to spend at least $500 as a stating price to get a genuine effective battery monitor.

These will be able to give you a comparatively accurate indication of your batteries, even when the motor is running.

The cheaper ones are no more advantage to you than the multi meters suggested by Geoff ( Newcastle ) and as Geoff also suggested, a multi meter has many other useful uses around your vehicle.

But if you don’t mind spending a bit of money, for around the same price as many of these next to useless elcheapo monitors, you can buy a clamp meter ( also known as a Tong meter ).

These clamp meters not only measure voltage but also measure current but unlike normal multi meters that have to be physically wired in series in the cable that is going to be measured, Clamp meters simply wrap around the cable and give an immediate reading without even touching the the cable.

Furthermore unlike standard multi meters that have a maximum current handling capacity of 10 amp ( some can handle slightly higher ) clamp meters can measure hundreds of amps and some go to over a thousand amps.

This makes clamp meters ideal for automotive use. Nothing like being able to measure full alternator current output without having to cut cables.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: brad1972 - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 21:36

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 21:36
if you have lead acid batteries why not use a hydrometer and really find out the state of the electrolyte, multimeters do not draw enough current to show the state of charge they will only give you the surface charge, and you need to watch the amps it takes to charge a battery while you are driving a voltmeter will only give you alternator voltage minus the voltage drop to the meter.So a totally stuffed battery will still appear to be chargining at around 14.6 volts once you get the engine going.The last decent load tester I bought cost around a grand.
Cheers Brad
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Follow Up By: drivesafe - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 22:29

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 22:29
Hi Brad, in the hands of most people, a hydrometer is not all that useful as it takes a bit of expertise to be able to read them properly and then there is the obvious, They can only be used with flooded wet cell batteries.

So if you have seal batteries, gel or AGM type, you are back to a volt meter.
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Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:47

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:47
I put a VDO voltmeter wired up to the 2nd battery.
The pajero already has a a voltmeter for the 1st battery.
Also put a switch on the VDO as it does allow some voltage drop over a day or 2.
AnswerID: 215718

Follow Up By: disco1942 - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 12:52

Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 12:52
Oldplodder

Batteries need at least 12-24 hours rest before a voltmeter or hydrometer reading is useful. This voltage drop you are seeing is the voltage dropping back to its normal resting voltage.

PeterD
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Reply By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:57

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:57
Just buy a cheap volt metre from jaycar or someone. You'd be suprised how differently your draw on the aux will be in different weather conditions. On a hot day at the beach you can easily wipe out a good 100amp hour battery with the fridg if it's set cold enough. In winter the battery will discharge because of the cold. Do you run your stereo? How do you know what the type of music your playing is doing? Basy type music will draw more than other types, mines only a stock stereo and it can draw 6 amps easily.

When you go for a run have you completley recharged your battery? My guess would be no unless you're going for a few hours at least.

Just go the guage and be done with it, it's better to know than not to IMHO.
AnswerID: 215721

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:58

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 18:58
I monitor second battery voltage which tells me
- that the isolator is working and when it kicks in,
- that the alternator and regulator are working
- and will give you a ball park idea of capacity (once you get a feel for it)

I don't go on holidays to spend my time playing with electronics. And my Jaycar $40 LCD voltage meter has been accurate to with 0.1 volt (except of you sit it in the sun), and only draws about 10 milliamps.
AnswerID: 215722

Reply By: Oz Travellers - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 19:48

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 19:48
I've put dual batteries in my old Troopy & I recently did the same to my Prado. As a battery monitor, I've used a "Dick Smith 12V battery tester", which has 6 different coloured LEDs to show the state of charge. ( It cost les than $20), and IMHO it's great.
I opened up the tester and fitted a miniature slide switch inside it to which I wired to both batteries. I just slide the switch to select either battery.
The tester is affixed to the centre gear shift console, in the groove under the hand brake lever, with double sided adhesive tape. Sparky.
AnswerID: 215727

Reply By: Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators - Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 22:01

Tuesday, Jan 16, 2007 at 22:01
Hi Toytruck

You have many options.

Price is a factor but a 2 way switch is simple option to check voltage on both batteries. You would not be able to do a load test on the starting battery when using the LCD one unless you use a heavy duty relay.

We are designing a new range of monitors and hope to have them in by Easter, these will monitor both batteries at the same time and give live feedback to the user. We feel that with our new range of micro computer controlled isolators on the way we need a better monitor.

Our existing range is as follows and are available from other outlets not just sidewinder.com.au . TJM stock the LCD ones, the analogue ones are also stocked by Arrid and Alzone and the LED one is a Projecta product available at most Repco stores.

1) LCD digital volt meter $150.00

2) Analogue volt meter $29.95

3) Simple LED monitor $30.00







Regards

Derek
AnswerID: 215767

Reply By: Gronk - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 10:43

Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 10:43
In answer to your original questions, you probably don't need to monitor both batts if you are only using the aux when stopped somewhere, but as already said a form of checking the aux batt is probably needed.

I don't like the analogue meters as they are not accurate enough ( is the batt 12.4 or really 12.7 ??? )

And $150 for a digital is a little steep when you can buy a $25 multimeter.

I tried a $30 job from jaycar ( digital meter, clock, timer thingy ) which is pretty much useless as it doesn't read the same as my multimeter 5 times out of ten !! And can be out as much as .5V

But even with a meter of some sort, the best approach is to charge the batts at every chance you get ( even daily if it's no trouble )
AnswerID: 215854

Follow Up By: disco1942 - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 13:00

Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 13:00
Gronk

Analogue meters are accurate enough - if you get the correct type. Have a look at the suppressed zero one pictured above. These are better for the amateur than digital ones.

PeterD
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Reply By: Patrol22 - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 12:44

Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 12:44
I've installed (with a switch to change between batteries) on of these from Jayco (Cat No XC0118). Unlike another poster here I've found that it is within + or - 0.1Volts of my multimeter and seems to work well.
AnswerID: 215872

Follow Up By: Gronk - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 14:29

Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 14:29
I've had it vary that much I can't trust the reading !! Nearly everytime I turn it on ( wired permanately to the CT battery with a switch ) I check it with a multimeter ( and usually not the same ) so it's not really needed anyway !!!
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