Member - Tour Boy posted:

Hi Steve, the fan is cutting in normally as well, I have an old thermostat out of my 80 that was ok so I might swap that in after I put the other gauge on to compare them side by side.
As for your post week before last, the results for the milage for the trip on LPG with the hunjy loaded to the boards and the boat on with stuff in it as well was 20.1 lp/100km so not that much different to normal 18-20lp/100km
Regards
Tour Boy

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hey there tour boy, hey they are pretty impessive figures with a load like that on plus running on gas which normally uses more than petrol. Regards Steve M

Member - Tour Boy posted:

Hi Steve, R U in Penrith?
Tour Boy

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hi there Tour Boy, yes certainly am. Actually live at Glenmore Park but if say Penrith everybody knows where that is. I work on castlereigh rd just next to holden up from coreen av. Regards Steve M

Member - Tour Boy posted:

Hi There is actually nothing wrong with the old thermostat I changed it chasing a prob but it wasn't the cause. It only takes a couple of minutes to change anyway. New ones are about $60 so it would be worth the time to be sure. Any old part that is in working condition (even if not perfect) such as hoses or belts is good to keep in the vehicle just in case, as they will get you home or back to a shop to get a new one. And you don't have all these new bits laying around that may not get used going hard.
Before you say just put new one on, I do that but have had sticks and rocks flick up causing belts that are only a couple of weeks old to fray and in one case break. Best to have a spare.
I've also had to use my spares fixing other people's vehicles, if they aren't new, it doesn't matter if you give them to somone else for free does it?
Regards
Tour Boy

Outnabout David (SA) posted:

Tourboy,

A genuine thermostat is under $30. If your dealer wants more than that then tell him they are on a special price program and have been for about 4 years.

Thermostat,viscous fan or partially blocked radiator would probably be the go. StUnfortunbateley it is a process of elimination.

David

Member - Ian H (NSW) posted:

Check the viscous fan coupling. I had a similar fault in the 80 diesel and fitted a Davies Craig replacement about 130k ago and no problem since(and about half the price i think).

icecold posted:

Well, here is a question, how about getting an electric fan wired in and remove the old clutch fan? that way you know that it is getting plenty of air volume getting though the radiator core. as long as it isnt blocked ofcourse.Im sure it would have to be better then the old fan typse and even get alittle more power out of the engine.
Chris

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hi there icecold, dont know if your are running eletric fans or not but on most occasions people who have put electric on 9 times out of 10 will revert back to the belt driven type as the pitch on the electric ones normally arnt any where near the same as an electric one and most vehicles that have factory electric fans run twins. more power ?? would be very minimal as unless the the clutch fan is locked in they are only free wheeling anyway where as electric fans really load up the alternator which increases drag on the motor as well so wouldnt be much difference. Some people do add them but usually infront of the radiator and leave original running as well. Water can also be an issue as well with the electric fans when doing water crossings some people do add an additional switch inside so they can be turned off prior to crossing through water.To me at the end of the day if the vehicle needed electric fans they would come from the factory with them. I would say tour boys problem is some thing minimal as under normal circumstances the cruisers dont run hot unless there is a genuine problem like a clutch fan not locking in or as said above blockage due to mud or grass leaves etc in front of or between radiator and air con condensor.Steve M

icecold posted:

Ok thanks for that steve, i have had a similar problem myself with my cruiser but on long hills. i do have a trailer that i tow for work about 500 kg average as i am a tradesman. and that is without the trailer. are landcruisers like the HZJ motors known to having overheating problems in general?
i have been to my mechanic and he has blasted the fins on the radiator and as far as i can see there has been no loss of water.
Regards CHris

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hi there Chris, no these motors were never known to run hot even with after market turbo's they seem to hold there correct operating temps. The bigest thing with the 80 series cruisers were the viscous clutch coupling not locking in there fore the fan is only free wheeling and not pulling the air through. It is possoble to pull them apart and put in some fresh gel which is available from toyota for about $8 a tube BUT to me the thing that works the most on those things are the thermo spring sitting at the centre of the coupling, my'n was stuffed on my lux and cost me $300 for memory for the complete coupling but that was cost price so if you dont know anyone in the game working for toyota will cost you nearly $500. Alot of people use the davis craig brand and have had no problems with them but I was informed by a few people to go genuine with the lux cause I would have issues with after market even the guy at henry st spares here in sydney said to go genuine cause he has had quit a few come back either not working or working when they felt like it not when they are suppose to so yeah I went genuine. Another thing is never use 2 different types of coolant at the same time. When due for a flush make sure it is 100% flushed heater core the lot. Will need to take a few hoses off and open heater tap to do correctly, is is not uncommon if using two different coolants for the 2 to react with each other and turn to gel halfway up your radiator blocking the flow of water there fore causing you heating problems. If it hasnt been flushed internally for a while I would take it to the specialist guys and get them to clean it out for you,you would be surprised the sh#t and crap these guys clear out that we cant with our garden hose. The way I look at it its cheaper to spend say $200 if that for a flush and know its spot on than not look at your temp guage for that minute or two and and up with an engine rebuild into the thousands. The other thing that will definately make it run hot is if the diesel pump is out of spec. If this has not been looked at in the last 100k then I would be getting that looked at as well especially if you bought it second hand and some one has had a play trying to get a bit more power out of it and have just wound the pump up. Hope you solve the problem.

Member - Tour Boy posted:

Hi, I tried a electric fan on a 75 years ago and threw it away as a waste of money it couldn't regulate the 2H's temp as well as a viscous fan.
Just picked up a new genuine thermostat for $28 so I'll see how it goes.
Thanks
Tour Boy

Member - Tour Boy posted:

Hi Rob I usually change the coolant every year. The previous owner has changed the coolant recently (green) but I can see some genuine (red) coolant in the recovery bottle so I will get the whole system pressure flushed this week. My 80s all ran the same as yours temp wise. Got a thermostat from yota today for $28. Might grab a cap tomorrow just in case.
Thanks
TB

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hi there Tour Boy, after reading your last reply in regards to colour of coolant I would just pull the radiator out and take it and get it professionaly cleaned. Be wary of the power flushes they use, as I have heard of people getting this done to end up with there heater core splitting and leaking requiring full replacement huge job. Wether it was on its way out or not is a guess but for two people I know who have had it done 1 on a cruiser the a patrol myself I wouldnt take the chance. If the cooling system is kept in good order in other words flushed properly when due and running GENUINE toyota coolant than there should be no need to do a power flush. I have 300k on the hilux now and only on my second radiator and never have a heating issue and have run genuine coolant for that 300k the red stuff. When I worked for toyota and the cressida's come out even thou they had red coolant in them from Japan it was still a different formula to ours and we had them coming in by the dozen with them overheating. The problem was when they had there first 40k service the guys would flush them but obviously not properly and some old coolant was left in the system, when they refilled with our genuine coolant it would turn to jelly and block the radiator up we use to have to pull out and send away to be cleaned and never had any problems with them after that.Regards Steve M

Robnicko posted:

Stephen M,
That was a very detailed and interesting response. I never thought that old coolant would mix with new coolane and Gum up. I, when flushu=ing the cooling system always remove the drain plug from the side of the block and the lower radiator hose and just run the garden hose through until it is consistently clear. Thanks anyway for the response, it was very informative.

As you used to work for Toyota can you tell me what the go is with Power Steering fluid. Does it need to be changed? Mine doesn''t leak or anything but has never been changed. There is nothing in the manual to say at whatever interval to change it. I have always kept an eye on it and it has never needed a top up and works fine. Do I need to change it or not?

Thanks,
Rob

Member - Stephen M (NSW) posted:

Hi there Rob, not so much an issue with old coolant to new coolant but the use of two different brands of coolant. To me these vehicles cost us a small fortune to keep on the road so I always use the genuine red stuff from toyota or who ever the manufacturer is eg toyota, nissan, mitsi etc. As far as power steer goes well there is argumaents about that. Do I change it ?? Yes every 40k 1/2 hour job to flush the whole thing. No there is nothing in the log books for changing it for the cruisers but toyota will recomend every 80 k if you ring them. My hilux is pink as every time I change it at 40k, my old vx commodore on the other hand was filthy at 40k and even had a cooler on it which the fluid ran down through a tube in front of radiator then back in again. To me if its going black some thing is wearing out fuuny thing is how often are people replacing there power steering pumps on a holden compared to a toyota, 300k and myn still the original where as most commodores will have had a new pump by 100k, obviously going black with the commodre is a sign that the seal is wearing out which, normally what sh#ts itself on a holden pump is the front seal is generally where they start leaking from. Regards Steve M

Robnicko posted:

Stephen M,
To 'flush' the system do I just disconnect the return line and drain the fluid or is there a specific way, drain plug or similar. I know about bleeding the system.

Thanks,
Rob