Member - Doug T (W.A) posted:

Troopytrek
Never mind the other post with yje link, you won't learn anything there except crap from a mob of know-alls and Derek is excluded from that,
Go to my 4x4 webpage and scroll to the bottom, Remember this, my Alternator is not the standard unit , it is a heavey duty 130amp so I doubt your standard unit will be boiling batteries,

members.westnet.com.au/dtilley/4X4.htm

Member - Doug T (W.A) posted:

Troopytrek
Sorry ,, forgot your question , oh and that yje is meant to be THE still a little dark here yet .
The Optima battery is the yellow Top and cost $370 , I also had a lot of problems with normal batteries collapsing internally , shorting out , the cranking battery is a deep cycle also but is a normal type , next time it needs replacing I will fit a Optima Red Top .

www.optimabatteries.com.au/

Member - Doug T (W.A) posted:

Phil
I'm not an auto sparky mate, all I was told to do over the phone was just that , as for before's and after's I wasn't interested, all I wanted was to get the overcharge problem fixed, now when your on the road all the time as I am it becomes difficult when you buy a unit in Atherton NQ and have problems in Crystal Brook SA , I just can't go running back to the supplier like you blokes could , I did what he told me to do over the phone and it's been OK ever since,
As I stated this Mod would be if your unit is Heavy duty as mine is , this is the 2nd unit i've had to buy and it cost $350 at Roma , The first one lasted about 10 months.
What batteries were boiling you asked , well both of them , and as I said in the latest post since I cut the wire I have had no more problems , Don't even attempt to ask me why it works, just accept the fact that it does , and I'm happy about that , it was costing a b;oody fortune in batteries about every 6 months , I even had a CAT battery blowing smoke and fumes from the vent like a bloody dragon at Blackall , so there I had to fork out dollars again , .

Here is another hint for people having Blown Fusible links in the series 75, Mine kept blowing the link at Norseman, they replaced, poked,prodded, tested,for 3 hours, changed Alternater, and still blew the fuse,$200 handed over and left with the fault next day, called into Merriden Auto Elect' for 3 hours he replaced, poked,prodded, tested , finally he put a new Battery , problem fixed , the damn thing had a short in it , that cost me $630 and all it was , was a faulty battery , No problems now for 8 months .

Doug

Member - Phil G (SA) posted:

Doug,
I'm not a sparky either, but maybe someone who is might be able to explain or confirm.

I'm guessing that the white lead is a voltage sensing lead, and that by bringing it back to the B-terminal, you are fooling the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged, and the regulator then drops the voltage a bit. I wouldn't do this to a standard 75series alternator, as it will slow the rate at which a normal battery recharges.

Re the fusible link problem - sounds like your upgraded alternator can put out more current than the fusible link is required to handle from a standard alternator. So I don't think that problem would occur on a standard vehicle.

Cheers
Phil

Member - Doug T (W.A) posted:

Phil
You got it ...yes thats what he said it was all about fooling the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged, and no not for a standard unit as I already suggested, When working we run a lot of lights etc,Headlights,2 beacons 55w, 2 wig-wags 75w , sometime flash driving lights 4 x 100w , then we have a fridge, a cooler, 2 CBs, Codan, 2 GPS's , Aircon + fan, inverter charging phone ,and music radio, all these items could be on at once at times.

the fusible link problem as I said was cause by a short inside the battery, Cheap crap ...see

Doug