What size (or output) solar panel to run a fridge?

Submitted: Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 13:55
ThreadID: 47545 Views:72423 Replies:10 FollowUps:11
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I'm thinking of getting a solar panel to run my fridge whilst camped for longer periods.
The fridge that I have is a Vitfrigio 42l which is very similar to a Waeco. It runs the Danfoss 35 compressor. Do I have to run a battery between the solar panel or can I hook the fridge up direct? If I need a battery, would it be possible to rig up one of those jumper packs so the solar panel charges that and it runs the fridge? Can I hook the solar panel to my dual batteries and just run the fridge off them still with the solar panel putting some charge back in? Also, what size solar panel would I need to keep a fridge like mine running? I know there are lots of variables but I think that a solar panel suplimenting my dual battery set up would let me camp for longer periods.
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Reply By: Notso - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:14

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:14
Definitely need a battery.

To camp out unlimited time You need enough capacity in the battery to run the fridge for a day or two if no sun and you need enough capacity in the solar panel to put more into the battery than you are taking out over a 24hr period.

So you need to know approximately how many amp hours you are using per day. Then you need solar panel/s sized to provide that amount plus a reserve capacity to charge the battery if it gets discharged during cloudy days.

To just top up and extend your stay then it's different and it depends how long you want to extend.

AnswerID: 251495

Follow Up By: Emo - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:26

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:26
Thanks for the info. If for aruments sake I say my fridge uses an average of 2.5 amps per hour, then 2.5x24=60amp/h solar capacity. Now if the sun shines 12 hours per day, I need to get the full 60amp/h's out of 12 hours to keep the input up with the usage. Does that sound right? Now most solar panels I've seen are rated in watts. How do I determine what wattage I need to get me around the 60amp/h's in 12 hours?
If I need a battery, then it's probably best if I can hook the solar panel up to the second battery under the bonnet that runs the fridge.
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FollowupID: 512588

Reply By: rbt - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:29

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:29
heya emo, im going thru the same equations myself...

the thing i keeo reminding myself is batterys dont like to be discharged beyond as certain limit so while it may be ok to run your number against the batterys numbers you must leave a large reserve else ruin your battery...

there are systems gaurding against this but cost may make it better to stay at a resort 'powered by solar panel" ..lol..

seriously tho', depending on the amount of devices you wish to run will depend on the amount of batterys you will need...

i would be happy with 5x100a/h and three 65w+ panels with associated regulators, cabling, switch, guages etc.. about 4-5K but then I aint hard to please...

at the moment i am considering isolating a deep-cycle fridge battery from the accessories and devoting the solar panels to it, but thats only because I dont want to buy two-new batteries, just the $600 panel & regulator...
AnswerID: 251499

Reply By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:39

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:39
Let's try and keep in simple. Over a 24 hour period your fridge doesn't run fulltime. We have a 50l Waeco with a dual battery system and from my experince this setup is good for at least two days. When we are camped with access to the sun then we can count on an additional two days with our 2x30 watt solar panels connected to the second battery. I use an Anderson plug to connect the panels directly to the second battery. I also watch the charge in the battery closely and run the car if it needs a boost.

Peter
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AnswerID: 251501

Follow Up By: Emo - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:49

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 14:49
Keeping it simple suits me. I took 2.5amp per hour averaged over 24 hours. I think when it runs it uses more than that but it cycles so it doesn't run all the time.
I've now found that to get the amps you divide watts by volts. ie 60 watts divided by 12 volts equals 5 amps. I assume that is per hour so that should be plenty to keep a battery topped up that was running a fridge.
Now looking on eBay at a few ads for solar panels, I'm not sure which volts figure is correct. A single 30w solar panel ad can quote 3 different figures. 12 volts, Open circuit voltage (21.6) and maximum power voltage (17.2). All are very different and will give you a very different amps calculation (2.5amps / 1.38amps / 1.74amps). Does anyone know which one is right?

Perhaps I should either buy a generator or run the vehicle more often. It seems alot easier.
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FollowupID: 512590

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:23

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:23
A regulated 60 watt panel will produce around 3.8 amp max (in full sun) - enough to run the fridge. If you have a regulator fitted it will charge the battery at around 13.8volts. I think an 80watt panel will produce around 5 amps. It comes down to what size panel you can carry I think. If you get a 60-80 watt panbel or fold up pair of panels you'll be ok to ru the fridge those extra few days.

Peter
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Follow Up By: WillyWish - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:18

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:18
Yes you could buy a generator but it's not nearly as much fun!
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Follow Up By: mattie - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 19:02

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 19:02
a generator will charge at maybe 10amps so if u know how many amp/hours u use a day which will vary from temp and how many times u open the fridge then u can work out how long u need to run the generator but this is where fun starts your battery might accept 10amps whilst it is very flat but it will not accept 10 amps until it is charged!!!! so if u used 60amphours from your batt then u will not replace it in 6 hours as it may only accept 2 amps after a couple of hours of charging? the only way u will know is to look at the amp gauge on your charging device, so it could take 10hours to charge with the generator.

MATTIE
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:39

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:39
"A single 30w solar panel ad can quote 3 different figures. 12 volts, Open circuit voltage (21.6) and maximum power voltage (17.2). All are very different and will give you a very different amps calculation (2.5amps / 1.38amps / 1.74amps). Does anyone know which one is right? "

A solar panel at a particular level of sunlight acts like a constant current source. Whether you connect it to a 12, 6 or 2 volt battery, it will put out the same current (within 10 %).
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Reply By: Steve - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:02

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:02
A 220 amp deep cycle battery and 2 x 64 watt Unisolars should do the trick..I used one panel and a 100 ah deep cycle battery on a previous set up and it lasted a day and a half , even producing 5 amps of power for about 6 hours ..Costs a small fortune to set up...but it works in my new rig and am a happy chappy..even though it cost big bucks !! (I have two 220 ah batteries )....but i run other things as well..tv, lights
AnswerID: 251506

Reply By: Scoof - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:08

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:08
Emo

I run a engel 40 litre frig and have used a 80 watt BP solar panel with a large 12 V battery for a extended piroid with no prob's.
AnswerID: 251507

Follow Up By: Emo - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:18

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:18
Thanks Scoof. I was thinking that around 80 watts would be around the size I should be looking at. Apparently I need a regulator ar well. An expensive set up to start with but I guess that you then don't need fuel or maintenance ever, it's not so bad. Hopefully that new slither cell technology will be available in solar panels soon.
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FollowupID: 512591

Follow Up By: Scoof - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:42

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 15:42
Emo ,
Yeh I have a reg.Maintainance free ,, Ha Ha should be.
The only thing is don't hook the terminals around the wrong way.
Been there done that.
It blows the diodes.Not that expensive but it don't work until it's repaired.

I'm looking for a 40 to 50 watt set up now, just to top up battery on camper to run lights and small 12V fan.

Cheers Scoof. :-)
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FollowupID: 512593

Reply By: WillyWish - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:04

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:04
Oooo solar panels...what fun!

You'd want an 80 watt panel as a minimum. An 80 watt panel will provide a peak of about 6 amps to your battery in full sun....remember 'peak' means best case scenario. For your calculations you want to work on 8hrs of sun per day max (less in the south). Therefore 8 x 6 = 48 amps back to the battery each sunny day.

Now if your fridge is drawing 60 amps per day then you are still losing a net of 12 amps/day based on the above. Therefore, for extended stays you're going to need a bigger panel (or 2) but with a 100amp hour deep cycle battery connected you should be ok for nearly a week with this setup. Fingers crossed the sky stays clear though!

A solar regulator is not essential if you are sure you are taking out more amps out of the battery than putting in but it is HIGHLY recommended. You can get a decent regularor for less than $100. A regular prevents overcharging of the battery.

Good luck.
AnswerID: 251512

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:34

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:34
"8 x 6 = 48 amps back to the battery each sunny day. "
- no, 8 hours x 6 amps = 48 amphpours

"Now if your fridge is drawing 60 amps per day then you are still losing a net of 12 amps/day based on the above. "
- no, if your fridge is using 60 amphours per day you are losing a net of 12 amphours per day.
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FollowupID: 512706

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:22

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 16:22
Emo,

The replies you have received already are pretty comprehensive.

What you need to determine now is whether you will be running your fridge from a dual battery system and confined to the vehicle, or whether you wish to remove the fridge to place in a tent, or similar.

If you require more flexibility, a portable battery pack may be a better choice.
A portable pack of around 75 A/H or greater will run your fridge for a couple of days. If you then supplement this with a solar panel to put a charge back into the battery while it is running the fridge, this is possible.

A portable battery pack in an AGM style, is available from the following sources:-

www.sidewinder.com (an Advertiser on this site)
www.homeof12volt.com.au (Manufacturers of the Thumper portable battery system)

You will get a varying response as to the size of a solar panel required.
If you are looking for a lower entry cost solar panel solution, with a growth path to a higher output configuration if required, you can consider this:-

I run a BP solar 40 watt panel & regulator (cost under $600) connected to a 75+ A/H Thumper portable battery system. To double the charging input, you can couple another 40 watt panel to provide an 80 watt configuration. Another regulator is not required.
I have a 40 litre Engel with a maximum current draw of 2.7 amps backed up by the 40 watt panel and have been stationary for three days without a noticeable drain on the portable pack.

The thumper can also be charged whilst driving (or idling for that matter) via an in-car high capacity charge controller, off either the one vehicle battery, or connected to the auxiliary battery in a dual battery configuration. The portable battery system thus becomes a third battery.

This type of setup will give the best flexibility, it just depends on how you wish to set your configuration up.
Bill


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AnswerID: 251514

Reply By: Mainey (WA) - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 17:31

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 17:31
Emo, such a simple question and so many vastly different replies lol

The only known facts are you use a fridge of unknown power consumption & you have a dual battery system.
The answer can be guessed at, but suspect you want an answer that can't be disputed and is guaranteed to work for you with-out any 'guesswork' involved.

Now the questions requiring answers are;
(a) what type & size of battery is your present Auxiliary battery
(b) are you going to roof mount the solar panel/s or use in a move-a-round situation(c) do you have a specific budget to work to
(d) do you know the actual power consumption of the Vitfrigio 42l fridge
AnswerID: 251531

Follow Up By: Emo - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 22:15

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 22:15
Hello Mainey.

Answers to your questions.

a) the aux battery is an Exide Extreme. N70 EXL.

b)move around situation

c) I'd like to see what the options are but I'm prepared to pay for a decent set up.

d) From the Vitrifigo website.
Nominal absorbtion (A) 2.10/1.05
Absorption power (kW 24h) 0.19
Nominal input (W) 25.57
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FollowupID: 512680

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Jul 10, 2007 at 10:59

Tuesday, Jul 10, 2007 at 10:59
Emo, in your original post you state: "I'm thinking of getting a solar panel to run my fridge whilst camped for LONGER periods"

Under those conditions I would ONLY recommend an AGM battery, NOT a wet cell battery.
Reason being an AGM battery will recharge much faster than any wet cell battery and that is the secret, as you have a limited number of 'sunhours' per day you must take full advantage of them and get the most charge into the battery as is possible in the given time, a wet cell battery will recharge less in the same time period and if you get 3 sunless less days you will run out of battery power.

You should buy the most EFFICIENT solar panel you can afford that fits in the space allocated to store it, as it's a 'move-a-round' solar system and will not be attached to the roof for transport & use. By getting the most efficient you then get the smallest physical size required to to the job needed. Most quality and also efficient panels have the module efficiency stated in their specifications, generally if the efficiency rating isn't mentioned you can only believe it's because it's not rated and in the top of the % numbers and therefore it's not worth the money. If you have a definite choice of panel and can't find it's rating I will endeavour to get it for you.

The solar regulator MUST be capable of replicating the benefits of a 3 stage battery charger, with the power coming from the solar panel instead of a 240v plug, not a single charge regulator.
A regulator with a LCD screen is useful as it allows you to set the panel up to it's most productive angle, as you can see the actual number of Amps going into the battery and also produced by the panel, there is no real second choice in this matter unless you have a panel fixed to the van roof etc.
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FollowupID: 512746

Reply By: honestjohn - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 19:13

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 19:13
Hi,emo
We have 2 115 amp Trojan deep cycle batteries in our caravan and 2 80 watt BP solar panels,we run a 40 litre engel and the normal fluro lights & tv, stayed in one spot beechworth for 3 wk's no shore power no problems.I hope this is some help, but doesn't come cheap but the old cliche you get what you pay for.
Cheers,Honest John
AnswerID: 251556

Reply By: Topcat (WA) - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:32

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:32
Why don't you do a search of this topic in the archives of this forum. It has been thrashed out many times over the last few years & there is heaps of info on the subject. Cheers
AnswerID: 251635

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