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Handbrake Lever - Likely Damage

Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 17:18

Member - Hughesy (NSW)

I've attached a pic of the handbrake cable set up for my Jayco (I hope it works). I've only just bought it so no damage yet but I can easily visage that the first time I go thru a steep hollow/dip the handbrake lever will become more crooked than a politician!!

How are other peoples handbrake levers setup on their campers??? As you can see it hangs down a good 4.5inches. I know the towball cops a flogging without the trailer attached. Its an ALKO setup.

Anyone got any ideas on how I can change the setup before I stuff it??


ALKO Handbrake Lever - Campervan

Simpson Desert 2006
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Cheers,
Hughesy
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AnswerID: 259968   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 17:26

Hairy replied:

Gday,
Dont now how to say it without stating the obvious though....
Move it up higher....Your right , its too low.
Cheers
Reply 1 of 7
FollowupID: 521417   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 17:36

Member - Hughesy (NSW) posted:

I wish it was that simple Hairy ;) The handbrake lever is mounted to a plate that sits under the Trigg coupling. Without lifting the whole Trigg coupling you can't make it higher. I could cut the bottom part of the lever but then you would have very little movement in tensioning the brake cable and would render the handbrake useless. Any other ideas???
Simpson Desert 2006
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Cheers,
Hughesy
FollowUp 1 of 4
FollowupID: 521422   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 18:36

Hairy posted:

Try and take some more photos, I really cant see why you cant lift it up.
Keep in mind the only things to avoid changing is where the cable attaches to the lever (needs to be in the centre, preferably) and the distance between the pivot point of the handle and the end where the cable attaches to the lever needs to stay the same length (preferably).
Is there and reason you cant mount it sideways ( turn it 90deg and mount it above the draw bar) and run the cable down between the draw bar and over a little pulley?
Im sure there is a simple way.....just cant picture what you have without better photos.
Cheers
FollowUp 2 of 4
FollowupID: 521456   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 21:59

disco1942 posted:

He can't raise the hand brake on its own as it is part of the hitch. If he raises the hitch and the lever it will through the trim of his van out.

PeterD
FollowUp 3 of 4
FollowupID: 521537   Submitted: Monday, Sep 03, 2007 at 17:23

Hairy posted:

My Mum always told me " there is no such thing as cant"
FollowUp 4 of 4
AnswerID: 259973   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 18:14

the mightyQ replied:

G'day Hughesy, yeah! I can only state the obvious but having the same Alko setup underneath my Trigg fitting. My the fitting is on top of the draw-bars.
With it being on top the hand- brake arm is level with the bottom of the draw-bars. i can only suggest you mount the Trigg on a plate on top of the draw-bars.

I take it as seen that this is a Jayco Outback, had one! same problem!

andy
Reply 2 of 7
AnswerID: 259975   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 18:29

Hopper51 replied:

Hi there Hughesy
Our 2006 Jayco O/B Expanda has a substantial piece of angle iron (4"x4"x5/16"?)
welded the A frame under the mount for the coupling. I often wondered what it was for - now I know - it is to protect the hand brake lever assembly.
cheers
Chris W
Reply 3 of 7
AnswerID: 259976   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 18:48

Member - Terry G (NSW) replied:

This setup was Jayco's response to complaints on their earlier models that the treg coupling sat too high and it was almost impossible to get a gooseneck that would keep the receiver high enough to give a level ride. Hence the hole in the A-frame and the lowering of the coupling. I think I have seen some of them like this with a plate welded across the top and the handbrake fastened to it with the cables running along the inside of the box frames. By the way, is that the way your Tregg normally sits or have you rotated it 90degrees to take the picture.
tessa

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One way to make sure crime doesn't pay would be to let the government run it.
Reply 4 of 7
FollowupID: 521425   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 18:55

Member - Hughesy (NSW) posted:

Yeah spun it 90deg to take photo Terry. Might have to go for a different type of lever. Because the handbrake locks against the top of the Trigg you can't just move the handbrake but the hole lot. Could weld in a plate to mount the coupling and everything above the A-frame rails but think I'll look for another type of cable setup.
Simpson Desert 2006
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Cheers,
Hughesy
FollowUp 1 of 1
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AnswerID: 259989   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 20:33

MEMBER - Darian (SA) replied:

Yep - the rocks will wreck it without protection. See....
http://users.picknowl.com.au/~darian/JackCampo/images/hitch.jpg
I used some conveyor rubber to protect mine on our Campomatic.
Not much point in trying to engineer a move up I thought, because I have already had to cut the handle off, swing it over and reweld it, to reduce height (for closing the vehicle's rear barn doors).
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Reply 5 of 7
AnswerID: 260017   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 23:06

Bilbo replied:

It's been my experience that most van handbrakes don't work very well, if at all. Mine's a near new Supreme Offroader and it's never worked no matter how you adjust it or the brakes shoes, or how hrad you jam it on. The van still rolls if it ain't dead level. Complete waste of time.

Find some rocks or take blocks of wood with you and chock the wheels prior to uncoupling.

I do it all the time now and bugger all that messing about trying to get the handbrake to work.

Bilbo
Remember - "Tomorrow is todays best labour saving device!"
Reply 6 of 7
AnswerID: 260023   Submitted: Sunday, Sep 02, 2007 at 23:37

Muddy doe (SA) replied:

As mentioned by Chris above, some angle iron or other type of plate steel welded below the draw bar would be required to protect the brake hardware in it's current position. Something below the draw bar to act as "sliders".

Muddy

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Reply 7 of 7