Member - neville G (QLD) replied:

Hi Matt,
I also service my wheels and brakes and I spoke to Alko recently about another matter and is the course of conversation mentioned brakes and their adjustment. The guy, who seemed very switched on, said that 13 clicks was the magic number, far more than I usually give them. After tightnenning up to the firm stage I usually back off around six or seven clicks until I get the condition that you speak of but he tells me that I should be giving them more. For what it is worth, let me know how it goes.
Cheers, Nev.

Member - Bucky (VIC) replied:

Matt

Back the controller off a little !

I have basically done the same as you , but my problem was that the bloody brakes were locking up all the time, no matter what where ect,,and I could never get them right !
We have a camper trailer

What I did was,
1) Started off with everything square again , shoes, and liners,,

2) Adjusted both breaks to a point of a slight resistance, on a freehand roll.

3) Adjust my Techoncha Voyager controller, to the manual/DVD, and then back off the course knob a little to achieve a gentle rolling stop, and not one that I can feel, but enuf to take some of the pressure off the tow vehicle.

NOW my controller red/green, well you have to look hard at it to see if it has engaged, but it does.

I find this way better, the breaks do not pull up the vehicle hard, They really are only supposed to take care of whatever you are towing, and having the controller up too high only seems to make everything too sensitive to road, and weather conditions. The other side of it is that you will be continually adjusting them up all the time..

Cheers
Bucky

Member - Oldplodder (QLD) replied:

Matthew, I think Neville may be right.

The back of my 74 beetle (manually adjusted drums) I do as you did, adjust to just touching or just off touching and great.

Electric drums on my C/T, at least 4 clicks back off, different makes of electric brakes seem to recommend different numbers of clicks with Alko being 13.

My C/T (750kg) brakes can still lock the wheels at 40km/hr with manual override as recommended in the prodigy manual.

After a run and plenty of use, they do get hot, but not that hot I can't touch them. Like the oil dip stick in the car, hot to hold, but you can hold it.

Member - Matthew C (WA) replied:

Ok thanks for all the reply,ive brought it to work today to test it out,about 30Km drive and the wheels have light dust covering and they are warm.Bit stop start driving but not much really.

So everyone recommends that they be backed off after a light contact is felt.Is that because there is some drag on the magnet pushing the shoes onto the drum????.

ot sure how to measure the backoffs,these dont seem to have that distinctive click they just rest on the back of the lower retaining spring.

Matt

Member -Dodger replied:

As the magnets on your elec brake system touch the drum lightly there will be some heat build up and this is normal.
When adjusting brakes then the way you did it is reasonable IE. adjust to tight then back off until the wheel can be turned with reasonable ease.

Member - Bucky (VIC) replied:

Hey Matt,,, been for a run without brakes not connected,, manual over-ride on,,,
Give that a go
Cheers Mate

Bucky

Member - Bucky (VIC) replied:

What type of electric brake controller is it ?

Go for Techonca, Prodojey ( spelling ) or if you can't afford it get the Voyager ( same as mine ) !

Cheers Mate
Bucky

Member - Matthew C (WA) replied:

Ok thanks for your help people.We have been to kalbarri and back with no problems whatsoever with the brakes after i figured out that it was an earth problem on the brake wiring .

What i have done is run two seperate earth for each brake pack and also added a new earth lead from the chassis of the car to the body of the car because all the eathring is done through the chassis which is not actually positively earthed to the body being a 4WD.

Anyhow had a great time and all worked out well.

Matt