Cobes posted:

Hi Darian,
My waeco is a cf50 Ac vera and about 2 years old.
I am measuring the voltage whils't under load from a junction box in the rear of the car that has three hella sockets on it?

Cheers
Chris.

MEMBER - Darian (SA) posted:

From my measurements with my budget meter, there is a sig voltage drop in the genuine Waeco 12V power lead too. So I check my voltage at the point where the lead plugs into the fridge, by spiking the sharp meter probes in through the cable insulation and contacting the copper strands inside - non destructive in my view, but tells the story (or seems to) while the fridge is running.

franku posted:

Darian,

I too have a CF60 which is about 9 months old.

There is a KNOWN FAULT with them - some of them - not all of them because a mate of mine with a 5 month old one did not have the issue have a problem with a special fuse which is soldered onto a board.

This $1 part neds to be replaced which is probably what you had done.

The symptom is that the "error light" will flash even with a fully charged battery with even zero voltage drop.

What actualy happen is that the compressor starts up - as soon as it winds up to 4.5AMP current draw it shuts off - so it cycles on and off constantly. This had about a 45% increase in amp hour draw over 24 hours on mine (monitored on a Xantrex Battery Monitor).

Also, Put it in Turbo mode and the compressor winds up to 7.5 AMPS and shuts down within 1 minute and wont stay on and the rror light comes on too.

Since it has been fixed with the new fuse, when in turbo mode, the compressor will stay on until it gets down to the set temperature.

If people out there have a CF60 - I suggest they check theirs before their next buig trip - it had a major impact on amp hour consumption.

MEMBER - Darian (SA) posted:

Yep - even with plenty of voltage in the supply, mine was continually moving to "low voltage error mode" - one flash - but only in hot weather (when you need it most) - cooler weather was fine. Following reports here, I spoke directly with Waeco and they referred me to an approved repairer in Adelaide - I have the fridge back and it seems to be happy, but I have not been posted the actual repairer's report yet. It has been suggested that the whole PC board has been replaced. Whatever - I'll find out soon I guess.

Member - Frank U (QLD) posted:

They may have replaced the whole board - the first repairer I called said that I did not know what I was talking about - there is no known faults and they would be replacing the board he thought depending on what they found when they look at it.

This would obviously fix it because the fuse is on that board.

The scond one - which I took it to, knew all about it and fixed it the same day because they just replaced that faulty componentrather than replacing the whole board...

Either way - I reckon yours will be fine now :)

Cobes posted:

Hi Derek,
thank you for your answer.
Upon closer inspection the cable is labelled 10AWG??

Is this the same as 6mm?

Thanks
Chris.

Member - Mike DID posted:

Yes, 10AWG is pretty close to "6mm" although it depends on how cheap the manufacturer wants to get - 6mm outside insulation diameter tells you nothing about how much copper should be in it.

Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators posted:

10 AWG is 5.3mm2 and not suitable for your application.

Here is a link to a great calculator. Derek's Link to AGW

conductor size 10 AWG
area 5.261 mm^2 (square-mm)
area 10383 CM (circular mil)
diameter 117.7 mil (1)
diameter 2.989 mm (1)
DC-resistance 0.00334 Ohm/m
tensil strength 157.83 kgf (2)
weight 46.772 kg/km (Cu)
weight 14.205 kg/km (Al)

construction: stranded

Note: lay factor of stranded conductor is assumed 2 %.

Note:
1. diameter of stranded conductor is an approximation.
2. tensil strength of crimped terminal is about 60 % of conductor.

franku posted:

Hi Derek,

Can you explain to me how you get 2.35V drop on 4.58mm2 wire in the above example?

I get this...

5m x 6a x 0.017 / 4.58mm2 = 0.11v drop ?

Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators posted:

Sorry typo.

Try this automatic calculator.

Voltage Drop Calculator

Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators posted:

Here is another one that is easier to use.

Voltage drop calculator 2

Member - JohnR (Vic)&Kath posted:

The 32mmsq wire I am using to the rear of Kath is heavier than some welding cable Jim. Got to pare it to get it into Anderson plugs but that is of no consequence, soldered with heat shrink over it.

Member - Frank U (QLD) posted:

For Fridges - I found MAXI FUSES the best - fuses themselves can and do cause resistance...

Using a normal blade fuse caused resistance - MAXI FUSE on the other hand was not measurable.

Member - Frank U (QLD) posted:

Anderson connectors are the best connector to use instead of that ciggarette lighter style one - Andersons are Zero loss - ie. no resistance - no voltage drop and self cleaning.

Member - Frank U (QLD) posted:

Now, an Electrolux 3 wau fridge uses a lot more power than a Waeco - check the specs of that Fridge and size the wirig accordingly - what works for a Weaco will be well and truly undersized for a 3 way.