Bruce n Sal posted:

Thanks,

Do you know any places I can get one of these. And find anymore info on them.

Member - 1/2A posted:

Use the link on my first post and you'll be able to get every thing you need.

Bruce n Sal posted:

Thanks I will have a look at it.

RV Powerstream P/L posted:

Hi Bruce and Sal
If I can be of any help please contact me through the trader section of this forum.
The picture below is a new Zero Volt battery Splitter that has multi channels for multI batteries with over volt protection and backfeed protection and greatly improves the charge to your batteries from the ALTERNATOR.
Email me and I will try and assist .No Obligation whatsoever.
Regards
Ian

Best Off Road posted:

Bruce,

Ian is a straight shooter.

You might also talk to him about the Sterling charging unit, to ensure you are getting maximum power output. If you get one of these and self fit, it will work out similar in cost to getting a traditional (and less efficient) system.

Ian kindly donated one of these units for Michael Mitchell who is currently doing the "Great Cancer Bush Walk". Ian sent it down to me to fit to Mike's Jackaroo and it was a doddle (and I'm not an Auto Electrician's arse).

Cheers,

Jim.

Robin Miller posted:

Thats certainly an interesting device.
(Electronics engineer here and Ian sent me the brochure).

While I have no technical information nor have done any engineering tests , this sort of thing is the way technology is moving, as is beginning to be seen in such things as winch controllers.

I presume its based on power mosfet switching backup up by a microprocessor monitoring current flows into/out of each terminal based on use on small shunts.

I guess proof will be in the actual implementation and cost, but concept is sound.

Sand Man (SA) posted:

John,

I have a dual battery setup in my Jack, controlled by a Piranha DB150S Controller.

On top of this I also have a 75Ah Thumper and a 39 amp in-car charging unit.

The way it works is this:-
The DB150S prioritises the starting battery to receive whatever charge that is necessary from the alternator, then once it has reached a specific voltage, will swap over to allow anything connected to the auxiliary circuit to be charged.
This generally happens within a minute or so because the starting battery is in good condition and not normally subjected to much current draw.

Once the auxiliary circuit is connected through the controller, the auxiliary battery in the engine bay receives whatever charge that is required.
The In-car charging unit for the Thumper is also connected to the auxiliary battery, so charging current also flows through the circuit to the Thumper in the back and connected whilst travelling.

The fridge is connected to the auxiliary battery when travelling, then when setting up camp, I remove the thumper and fridge and locate in the annex of the camper trailer. I also connect an 80 watt solar panel to the thumper to help maintain a charge for an indefinite period.

The auxiliary car battery is a backup should I need it, but that is unlikely.

In your situation, you don't need the dual battery controller, simply the in-car charging unit for at least the 75 Ah unit. This would be connected to your primary battery.

For the 120 Ah battery in the trailer, I would be inclined to have a separate circuit via an Anderson connector to and Arrid Twin Charge controller in the trailer and then to the trailer battery.
This setup will limit the need for heavy duty cable, but increase the voltage at the remote (trailer) end to enable correct charging of the trailer battery through the vehicle alternator.

The Arrid Twin Charge Controller setup is very common for correct charging of remote batteries by the vehicle alternator. It boosts the voltage level if necessary to remove voltage drop, the most common cause of inadequate voltage supply to a trailer battery.

Although the Arrid Twin Charge may also be possible of charging the Thumper in the back of your vehicle, I would prefer to have two separate circuits, one for each battery system.

I am sure you will receive expert advise from the guys at Home of 12 Volt.

Just be aware there are several ways of achieving a good result.

Bill

Sand Man (SA) posted:

Correction!

In my reply above, 39 is a typo.

The in-car charging units available are a 20 amp, or the heavier duty 30 amp unit.

Wheaters posted:

what are your thoughts on projecta pure sine invertors??

Sand Man (SA) posted:

Don't have any particular experience with the Projecta Inverter.

I have a 300 watt modified sign wave inverter infrequently used to run a small AA battery charger, or a charger for the video camera.

That is my sole need for an inverter.

I have structured my camping needs for 12 volt lighting only, plus running the fridge.

Bill