TF 3 litre diesel Owners

Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 17:15

kwk56pt

I have a 2002 Rodeo I purchased recently to replace my 1994 Rodeo 2.8 diesel. The 3 litre diesel has good urban performance but performs poorly on the highway dropping 10 to 15 kph on hills. So its been dyno tuned and all is good apparently, I did fit a steinbauer chip. This gave considerable improvement in power but the vehicles hill climbing performance is the same. By comparison the 2.8 ran up most hills at 100kph although it was much slower getting going. My vehicle unlike the RA does not have a EGR or catalytic converter. It has new fuel and air filter.
The Steinbauer is supposed to lift power from 96KW to 115kw but it still assaults hills like a non turbo diesel. Staying in fourth gear which gets the revs back up to 3200 where the 2.8 runs at increases noise but still it will slow on most hills.
So maybe this is as good as these things go but I would like to hear from those who own or have owned these to verify that this is in fact the best these run. Its difficult to understand why it will go well around town and drop its bundle on the highway as its difficult to sit on 100kph unless on the flat ground.
My understanding is it doesn't need injectors as its only done 135000kms and at $330 each I am not inclined to replace them hoping all will be fixed. It does have a MAF sensor but I believe when these play up it will be loss of power at the bottom end.
It did come up to spec on a Dyno so maybe another single or space cab ute needed.
Experienced or knowledable input would be appreciated........Peter
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AnswerID: 400853   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 19:23

guzzi replied:

I did have the 2.8 TF and have no experience with the 3 ltr.
Having said that, yours would probably benefit from a larger exhaust and a 3 in dump pipe from the turbo.
Before I had my 2.8 tuned and a larger exhaust fitted I used to get annihilated on the Cunningham gap by the 3.0 ltrs. When they removed the muffler it just fell the 3 ft to the floor with a thud and didnt even bounce ,it was that clogged with soot, similar Kms to what you have now. It was a different vehicle with the new exhaust, it would almost catch the 3.0 lt up the hills.
Pump timing and valve clearances are also worth checking.
Cheers.
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FollowupID: 670128   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 20:36

kwk56pt posted:

Hi Guzzi, you said " I used to get annihilated on the Cunningham gap by the 3.0 ltrs"I assume you either have followed or been passed by another TF 3 litre Rodeo. The muffler is a good thought because I feel something is holding it back and that's something relatively easy to replace and quite possibly the cause. I have read mixed reports about these 3litres and such as there is" more power on paper " and " supposedly more powerful than the 2.8". I think it should go better but I am keen to hear from someone who has one that goes great or who has resolved a similar issue.
My 1994 which I bought with 60000kms was a slug getting going. I had the timing checked and they gave it more fuel.It would rev slowly till 2800rpm and take off. Fitted new injectors at 200K and it was transformed pulling strongly through out the rev range. Original muffler though at 285K
I have just been out and tapped it with a screwdriver, hard to tell if its blocked but I will look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.
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FollowupID: 670151   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 23:01

kwk56pt posted:

Thanks Stiphondon, yes I actually initiated that post. Some said they went ok others thought not. Since that post I put the Steinbauer chip on it figuring it would be cheaper than changing vehicles. The chip certainly makes it hussle around town but its the same as before on the hills. This wouldnt keep up with my 2.8 on the hills I would say.Unfortunately I had invested some time servicing it, changing all hoses and belts along with fitting a coolant alarm getting the windows tinted before I had taken it on a highway trip. So I am hoping to discover something by asking questions again such as the muffler being suggested as a issue or someone might enlighten me as to how one tells if its a MAF issue.
I can honestly say I would prefer to drive the 2.8 on the highway say to Darwin than this 3 litre even with a chip.
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AnswerID: 400874   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 21:44

Dion replied:

Is it running tyres with an increased diameter over the standard?
If it is, the effect is like overdriving each gear, which is fine on the flat, but it will run out of puff on inclines and hills much quicker compared to similar vehicle running correct dia tyres.

Cheers,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 670147   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 22:39

kwk56pt posted:

Hi Dion, that was my first thought as the tyres were not standard. I think they were 30 x 10.5 x 15 BFG all terrain.Stood the spare up against these as its the original 205x 16 and that is a bit taller than the tyres fitted to it so it should climb hills a bit better with the smaller diameter wheels fitted. Its a space cab with the Arb canopy. Did you own this version of the Rodeo ?
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FollowupID: 670205   Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 13:25

Madfisher posted:

The 205/16 are only 28in so the extra 2in would make a huge diff to hill climbing. my mate has the 2.8 and his son the 3lt and the sons goes much better.
Cheers Pete
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FollowupID: 670212   Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 14:51

Dion posted:

My first Rodeo was a 2000 TF, single cab with pick up body. Right from new had a tuff lid on the ute so never had the tailgate catch the wind.
Subsequent Rodeo's , '03 and a '05 are both space cabs., with tuff lids too. Never used canopies.
The TF, I did only 80000 before trading it, still on original tyres. Nothing wrong with it except single cab was too tiny.
Comparing the TF (or R9) to the RA's, the TF wuz quicker out of the blocks, able to accelerate to 110km/h reasonably quickly, but the 2.8 would be doing 3100rpm for 110km/h. The RA's are slower out of the blocks, but would overtake the TF somewhere about the 80km/h on there wat to 110km/h.
The older of the RA's, I have replaced the original tyres with STT at 225 wide, as they were the closest that matched the dia of the original 245's fitted.

B4 4WD's when I had the VB commodore, had a 9" fitted with 2.75 open centre diff. Great till you pointed it uphill, was too overdriven and would require a change down from 5th to 4th. Not too long after the 2.75 was replaced with 3.00LSD which is close to the original 3.08, and much better.

I am now very wary about doing things which can effect the final drive ratio, hence I stick now with tyres that have a dia matching the original fitted.

Cheers,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 670300   Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 23:56

kwk56pt posted:

Madfisher, Ok this is worth revisiting. The spare on the original 16 inch rim says 205R16LT. It did appear bigger than the 30x10.5x15 fitted. To use the net based tyre calculators I need to know the profile of the 205r16 tyre or what profile did you use in the 28inch calculation of the 205r16. Incidentially do you know of a source for aftermarket wheel nuts to suit the standard rims.
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FollowupID: 670302   Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 00:30

kwk56pt posted:

Perhaps I go to a tyre shop. Best I can work out at the moment is original tyres are 205R16 LT based on a profile of 8o means 735mm diameter
30x10.5x15 imperial is 265x70rx15 metric means 752 mm diameter so my numbers say 17mm or about 3/4 inch diameter taller tyres fitted although my original visual led me to believe the 15 inch tyres were smaller. Could 17mm make much difference, I hope so!
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FollowupID: 670339   Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 10:26

Madfisher posted:

Hi Kwk,
When you sat the spare next to your existing tyres it would have appeared taller because their was no weight on it.
On out old Paj with the 3lt v6 we went from 265/70 to 31/10r 15 and it took the sting out of it. THe diff was 1in for memory.
Also I would replace the muffler with a sports muffler, and larger pipes it will make a big diff even if it is not clogged. Had a similar problem years ago with a 2.8 na Rocky. Fitted a Turbo muffler and 2in system and on my test hill it went from 70ks to 77 and still picking up.
Good luck Pete
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FollowupID: 670823   Submitted: Thursday, Jan 28, 2010 at 16:14

kwk56pt posted:

The best information I can get is 206R16 is a 80 profile which is 734 diameter. A tyre agent tells me the 30X9.5 x15 BF Goodrich Tyres are 759mm another says 756 and a online calculator says the 30x9.5x15 is 765 so there is at least a 25mm difference. Although original used rims are available they seldom come with wheel nuts which dont appear to be available non genuine for the factory rims. Wheel niuts are $32 each thats 24 @ $32 is $768 for nuts if you can believe that. So seeking after market rims and nuts I guess. This appears to be the most probable cause of the loss of speed issue.
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AnswerID: 400888   Submitted: Sunday, Jan 24, 2010 at 23:14

Busy Bee replied:

Quite happy with my 2002 TD Rodeo. Although cannot do comparisons I am happy with peformance up hills, towing etc.
However a couple of months back I felt it was losing power, washing off speed on a local hill I used accelerate up in 5th. The condition very gradually got worse.
Long story short, it turned out the accelerator assembly in the cab is only spot welded to the bulkhead and after a few years of trips up the Cape with flexing from corrugations etc the top welds had given way. So as I pressed the accelerator the whole assembly was hingeing down to meet it thus cancelling out my efforts. At first it was barely noticeable but as time went on it was bending more, making the effect worse until it became obvious the pedal was near the floor with not much effect.
A drill and nuts and bolts fixed it.
The only time I made a mistake was when I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken.
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FollowupID: 670162   Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 00:40

kwk56pt posted:

Well Busy Bee I am pleased you are happy with yours which is encouraging.Checked out my accelerated assembly, a bit dissappointed to see those spot welds you spoke of are not broken. Although the assembly has a bit of flex in it if you lift the pedal it appears to be fuctioning ok although, I did notice that the pedal rests on the floor at full throttle and it has flat pads on the underside of the pedal arm which suggest this is how the manufacturer intended it to rest. Where does your pedal rest in relation to the floor when in the full throttle position ?
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FollowupID: 670224   Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 16:47

Busy Bee posted:

It is as you say there are stopper pads to limit travel but mine is fairly close to the floor at full throttle.
What alerted me to the pedal travel was that I noticed that if I kicked the floormat away I got a bit more travel so I realized something was crook in Toolarook.
There is a tiny bit of play now, but must be the floor flexing a bit.
The only time I made a mistake was when I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken.
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FollowupID: 670306   Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 01:24

kwk56pt posted:

Hi Busy Bee,can I ask whether your Rodeo has standard rims and tyres and if not what size and brand of tyre are you using........Thanks Peter
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FollowupID: 670352   Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 12:34

Busy Bee posted:

Yes standard rims and tyres. The only suspension mod is Old Man Emu shocks which would not affect engine performance.
Pat
The only time I made a mistake was when I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken.
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