Brake rotor replacement

garrycol replied:

I don't see anything wrong with what you are proposing as long the rotors are a direct replacement - ABs will have noting to do with the the replacement though.

Garry Thumbs UpThanks 0

member - mazcan replied:

hi peterc18
are you sure the wheel bearings arent loose as this can also cause brake shudder you didnt say how many k's it done
have you looked at the the wear idicator on the disc pads to see if it is past the excepted thickness
as long as the replacements are of the same size and technical standards there shouldnt be any problems with after market parts
dont know where you live but
-brake and clutch australia -in your state should have parts
cheers Thumbs UpThanks 0

Ross M replied:

G'day Peter
At 235,000 if the discs are the originals then I would be replacing them as they will be worn enough to require machining.
Add the cost of machining and then still having old discs is probably not best value.
Because you will also require new pads the total cost won't be much above the fixup of the old.
With new you get full braking performance restored to the vehicle, particularly handy if you also tow a camper etc
The slotted and vented ones will better handle wet situations but you won't notice any increase in performance.
Your ABS sensor will be attached to the hub so shouldn't have any connection with the brakes themselves.

Ross M Thumbs UpThanks 0

Ron N replied:

Peter - A major problem with virtually all new vehicles, is that, with the drive to keep weight down, this means that most disc brake rotors have been thinned down to the point, where they buckle when you hit floodwaters, and the rotors are hot.

The ventilated rotors are worse for this than the old solid rotors - but most solid rotors are pretty much on the way out, now, and ventilated rotors are fitted to about 95% of vehicles today.

Brake shudder is invariably buckled rotors. There's generaly little benefit in skimming (machining) buckled rotors, as there is so little metal to work with.
Couple that with high labour costs, and generally lowered prices for new rotors, and new rotors are generally the best bet.

The ABS system merely prevents wheel locking under heavy or panic braking. A sensor on each wheel senses when the wheel has stopped turning and releases the brake pressure to that wheel, then reapplies it milliseconds later. This process repeats until the heavy brake pressure is released.

The rotor thickness, type, condition, or amount of wear in your braking system is not measured or compensated by the ABS - the braking system is self-compensating for wear, and only when the brake fluid reaches a low level, will warning lights be activated.

Cheers - Ron. Thumbs UpThanks 0

miandering fiander replied:

A friend of mine in a 150 series T/D Prado suffered front shudder, thought brakes then bearings etc.. Turned out to be loose wheel nuts.
Tightened up and problem gone. Thumbs UpThanks 0