AnswerID: 485280 Submitted: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 at 12:03
Firstly let me say that I am very much in favour of the use of marine batteries in 4wds....My personall choice is the supercharge seamaster gold, they have a very solid following in boating circles....no vested interest.
Marine batteries are a rugged construction battery.
Some manufacturers market a "marine" battery, "4WD" battery and some an earthmoving battery..... generally they are identical appart from their colour and the sticker.....but you will often get a better deal on the marine item.
As for vibration.....there is a whole pile of....um.....er......"misinformation and misunderstanding" arround.
Firtsly lets seperate the idea of vibration and shock.
Unless you are going to install a complicated and bulky system you will do bugger all about shock and vibration that originates from the vehicle, you have to rely on your suspension
and this is why you buy a rugged construction battery.
A lot of other vibtarion comes from things not being firmly mounted and properly restrained
Putting rubber under your battery will not absorb any vibration, not a single bit......remember you battery strap is still rigid......... what it will do is give the bottom of the battery traction on the battery tray and it will also give the battery clamp something to compress to maintain its tension.
Before I put rubber under the cranking battery in the factory battery tray, I could not get enough tension on the factory battery clamp to properly restrain the battery......the battery would move arround.......a far more sreious issue that any vibration.
One thing on my list and everybody should consider, is upgrading the factory battery tray and battery clamp.....many trays don't fully support the bottom of the battery and many battery clamps are simply too weak to hold the battery in place.
ALL batteries should be held down firmly, if you can push your battery around in the tray or if it moves at all in operation of the vehicle, it is not properly restrained
As far as heat goes......heat is the #1 enemy of lead acid batteries, raise the operating temperature of a battery from 25C to 45C and you reduce its life expectencay by at least half, some sealed AGM style batteries it will reduce the expected life span from 5 years to under 1.
And the battery will perform poorer in every way.
The best thing you can do for any lead acid battery is to get it out from under your bonnet......unfortunately lots of us cant.
Managing heat under your bonnet.
Firstly a bit of rubber is going to provide no effective insulation for your battery.
we need to understand there is aconsiderable airflow under the bonnet of most vehicles......there is a trucking big fan behind the radiator.....that air might not be all that cool, but at least it is flowing and cooler than most of the engine components, certainly cooler than the exhaust & the turbo.
look arround under the bonnet of most moder cars and there are heat shields all over the place....their job is to be an obsticle to radiant heat.
Under the bonnet radiant heat is about the only heat we can do anything about......so the idea is to place something between the heat source and the sensitive item and allow airflow past it.
Mostly this is just a sheet of metal......it don't have to be fancy to work..look at the top of your catlictic converter for example.
putting a steel sheet heat shield mounted on the turbo will probably do the most.
there are foil jackets you can get for batteries too and i have seen all sort of attempts.....but I can't see them being all that effective.
Remember insulation and heat barriers only slow down the passage of heat.....you need airflow or other cooling, or the cool side of the insulation will get just as hot as the hot side gven time.
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