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Day 10	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Saturday 12th July	Durba Springs	Well 20	181.8km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Max speed
2hrs 22mins	28.1km/hr	6 hrs 28 mins	62.2km/hr

After a delightful stop at Durba we lifted camp to continue our northbound trek. The campground was much quieter now that Treks About Australia had moved on the day before and it seemed that the other campers were either staying another day, or were going to have a late departure so we timed it nicely to get away from other travellers and get a clear run for the start of the day at around 8.50am

Our happy little camper...

Only 20km (40 minutes) up the main track from Durba we came to the turnoff on the left to Diebel Hills (marked with just a white tin lid). We were interested to explore this area and had read in the Gard's book "The Canning Stock Route - A travellers guide" that there was a spring to be found near the summit of one of the peaks. So with that to find as our main aim off we set.

We hadn't expected such a wonderful drive - it was very scenic and a couple of fun dunes to cross along the way. The instructions in the Gard's book led us up the garden path, but maybe that's just my odd interpretation of them. Anyhow, for the life of us we could not find this spring!! If we didn't have Leah with us, we certainly would have been a bit more exploratory and actually climbed all over the place for hours, so we wanted to be sure that we found the exact hill before we set climb piggy-backing our 15kg lump of a wiggling child in a windy gale up a steep and rocky cliff with no walk trail. There were a couple of confusing tracks that didn't agree with the descriptions in the book, and no obvious walk trails found at the end of any of them. So, we gave up on finding the spring and simply enjoyed the place.

Diebel Hills

We explored to the far end of the range by vehicle and found what could only possibly be described as a basic campsite on rather uneven ground quite some distance from the range, but under some scrub which offered a little shelter. We didn't feel it rated a campsite marker (as indicated on the current edition of the Hema GDT NW map sheet) but we did happen to disturb a herd of 15 camels nearby which was a worthwhile sight.

A herd of camels at the far end of Diebel Hills

Finally, David handed the driving seat over to me for the backtrack out of Diebel Hills some 2 hours later and rejoined the main CSR track with David begging for me to stop and swap drivers again! Not that I'm a bad driver (really, I'm not, I was having a ball) but David is a shocking passenger! He was moaning about being car sick - but I think that was because he couldn't take his eyes off the computer screen in front of him, rather than looking out the window. So, I have only managed to drive about 25km of the CSR - whoopee do -  (must talk to the accountant about the possibility of ExplorOz2 - the backup vehicle)!

Well 18 was only 14km on and is reconstructed (July 1999). It is not "fully restored" as the map indicates, ie. the windlass, whip pole, troughs etc have not been restored, but the well hole itself is of excellent construction (thanks to Ken Maidenment and his team). The water was very clear, but did have a slight salty taste, but certainly drinkable. This well is also well known for having frogs in the corners of the wooden framework, hence its nickname "Frog Well".

Frogs but clear water at Well 18

Another 3km up the track and the turnoff to the right to Onegunyah Rockhole is easily seen. The winding track leads 5km through scrub and finally we were exhausted and ready for a lunch at what we expected to be an oasis. Not so, happy campers, the rockhole was putrid this year, with just a mere puddle of water remaining where a deep rockhole would normally be. 

We then moved the car further back under a bit of scrub for shade to have lunch. It was searing hot and as a campsite, this place offers nothing of interest other than a flat clearing suitable for large groups but no shade. Obviously in a wetter year, the place would seem different with the rockhole offering a cool place to rest just a few metres from your camp.

Between here and Well 19, we marked a couple of decent campsites in clearings under desert oak trees (that we hope Hema will put onto the next edition of the GDT NW mapsheet). With increasing visitor numbers to the stock route, we are all encouraged to select campsites away from well sites, and part of our mission on this trip was to identify and mark some good spots where campsite symbols could be placed on the map).

43km from the turnoff to Onegunyah, we came to the edge of Savory Creek. The track swings to the right and follows alongside the edge of the creek for 1.2km until you meet the main crossing. This is marked only by 2 stick markers in the mud to guide your exact entry from the southern bank and if you look closely  (through binoculars or camera lens) you will actually see the sign on the northern bank confirming that this is Savory Creek. I say this because, I the navigator, had to prove to the argumentative driver that this was indeed the crossing. He believes in following tracks... and really wanted to continue further along the edge and as I said, you could miss the crossing if you didn't know what to look for.

Savory Creek Crossing 2003 Season

At the time of our crossing, we were solo, and the creek was reduced to just 2 channels with a central "sand-bar" in the middle. The crossing was very obvious once you got started, however the dropoff is quite sudden and the vehicle made a great thump as the rear end connected with something solid but the rest of the crossing proceeded calmly. 

Once on the other side, the track comes to a fork. To follow the CSR you VL here. Has anybody explored the track SO? The warnings about saltbog in the Gard's book put us off venturing along the track at 4pm in the afternoon when we just wanted to find a camp for the night.

500m from this fork you come to a junction where the CSR heads of to the right, but the left track leads in 100m to an ideal campsite under desert oaks. Why didn't we camp here? "There must be something better/closer to the water/better view/..." said the driver, so we marked it, and drove on.

At 5.20pm we had found the next campsite at Well 20. (Actually, we passed another excellent campsite just 2km on from the last good one but it was occupied, and we also explored the track out to Lake Disappointment before the Well 20 turnoff and it was no good for camping either).

Although it was a very late arrival, it was picture perfect and we highly recommend Well 20 as a campsite. It might sound as if I'm always commenting on errors found in the Gard's book, but it is very outdated now and I know they've been working on a new edition but for the time being as a reference I think you should all be aware where it is quite wrong. So here goes another complaint - the book states that the 9km long access track to Well 20 will take you an hour each way and that it is simply not worth the drive. We timed our trips both in and out and it took just 22 minutes each way. So please don't be put off by what you read in that book - it really is a worthwhile trip out to see this well, particularly if you stay and see how beautiful it is on sunset.

Peace at dusk at Well 20

The Well itself however has caved in and there is no water or frame to be seen. There is just a star picket with a rusty illegible sign, bits of old tin and the full length of the trough filled with sand with spinifex growing out of it. The campsite is small and peaceful beneath 2 desert oaks in the centre of the turning circle.

Day 11	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Sunday 13th July	Well 20	Well 24	135.2km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Max speed
2 hr 32mins	38.1km/hr	3 hr 33 mins	70.4km/hr

We were off again by 9am and backtracked out onto the main CSR track and heading towards the northern end of Lake Disappointment. Just 13.4km from Well 20 we found another great campsite and could just easily have stopped here for the day. Easily found a track leads up to a small rise on the left directly opposite the most glorious views of Lake Disappointment to be seen on the whole excursion. About 100m up the track are some campsites under desert oaks with great views to the white shores below. Oh well - really, it was too early to stop for the day, but when I come back here again, I will aim for this campsite and stop a few days. There was a general feeling of ... space that I found relaxing. 

Views of Lake Disappointment from the Camp

7.7km further on we came to a fork, where you TR to access Wells 21 and 22 - this is definitely the most popular route. Seems strange that the Hema map indicate that this is an "alternate route", since if you turn left at the fork you will bypass both wells altogether.

We came across a convoy of Land Rovers en-route to Well 21 heading in the opposite direction but could hear the banter on the radios long before we saw them. We found water a long way down into the depths of Well 21 but the timbers are starting to cave in. The lid is intact, the trough is in ruins, windlass in ruins, rusty bucket and almost covered by overgrowth.

Nice dunes from Well 21 - 22

We had a straight, flat, although corrugated, run to Well 22 with a couple of nice dunes in the last section. This well is in an area with lots of camps tucked away in little bays. Could easily hold loads of campers. The well itself is an unusually tin-lined well shaft (most others are square 6x4 and framed with wood).

Wells 21 and 22

Well 22 is just a little over 8km from Georgia Bore - where good quality water is almost guaranteed. The drive through this section was unexpected with views of green hills, lots of purple flowers (purple tinsel bush), less spinifex and mostly green shrubs and some gum trees.

Again, where there's water this year, there were hornets but I don't think they often bite because we spent about an hour mucking about with the water and were literally surrounded by them and none of us got a bite.

At Well 23 (in the middle of the track and in ruins) a track runs out the back to the Fuel Dump operated by the Capricorn Roadhouse in Newman. We hadn't booked any fuel as we'd make it to Kunawarritji Community with plenty to spare, even though we'd travelled so many side tracks including Calvert Range and Diebel Hills (we carry 220L in fuel tanks and started with 3 jerry cans). The layout of the Fuel Dump is interesting just to stroll around - with all the empty (or near empty drums - some still had 20L in them) set aside in one stockpile, whilst the full drums awaiting travellers are lined up in another area, clearly marked with each owners name and the fuel type. There was even a fuel pump for public use.

So just up the track a little further we stopped for the day at Well 24 - a lovely spot beneath a small rocky outcrop and many secluded camps tucked amongst the bushes. We were the only campers, although there was evidence of one hell of a mess from the night before (presumably a tour group by the number of fresh camps). The mess was due to the fact that this camp is full of dingoes and they had already dug up the buried rubbish that last nights campers had left behind. Bits of egg shells, orange peels, toilet paper - all the stuff that we tell you to BURN NOT BURY. The dingoes were having a field day!

Artistic Inspiration...

Finally, we arrived at our camp at a sensible hour - 3.30pm and set out Leah's watercolour paints and paper for some painting fun whilst David prepared his wonderful baked bread. 

Knead, Cover with a damp cloth, and allow to Prove in a warm place

We cheat and use the regular bread mix we put in our bread machine at home, place it in a large stainless steel bowl, cover it with a damp teatowel and put it under the hood of the vehicle whilst it is still warm after the day's drive. After about an hour it has doubled in size and is ready for baking in the camp oven. Bread made with yeast keeps considerably fresher and doesn't take on the rock solid texture of damper when eaten the next day for sandwiches.

Day 12	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Monday 14th July	Well 24	Well 29/Thring Rock	157.8km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Max speed
2 hr 15mins	34.0km/hr	4 hr 38 mins	62.8km/hr

We have definitely hit the higher latitudes now with the temperature at 7.30am at 35°C and up to 38.5ºC by 8.30am. We lifted camp quickly and by 9.30am had passed 8 cars all moving south. All the owners recognised us and some even called us by our first names without introductions. Good to see that real travellers do in fact use ExplorOz, and you're not all just numbers in our stats server.

We found Well 25 to be silted up, Well 26 fully restored in all aspects and the water was good, but not as good in taste as Georgia Bore, or Well 18, 15 or 6. It had a very slight taste and slight colour. We needed to take on a little more to ensure we had sufficient so put 30L in our tank and added the puritabs in case. (We did not use puritabs for any other water taken onboard from other wells).

Well 26 - restored to indicate how an original well site might have looked in the 1900s.

Well 27 had lots of water, the well timbers were intact but covers were rusty, the trough was silted over and it was very dilapidated. The old steel bucket had rusted holes in the bottom and the whip pole had fallen and the trough feeder lay broken nearby. There is no real shade as the only vegetation is some low shrubs. Accordingly to the Gard's book and a notation on the Hema map, there are some aboriginal tools to be found further west of the well. We spent considerable time searching for this but there was heavy vegetation and for the life of us, we couldn't find anything at all. I'd love to know from someone who has seen the tooling area and if in fact it still remains. I was hoping to plot a GPS point for the location.

After searching in vain for the tool site we sat under the shade thrown by our vehicle and waited for the Toodyay convoy of 3 we could hear on the radios coming up behind us. They said they were about 30mins behind us so we took in the silence of our surroundings in that time whilst sipping Miso soup made up from a packet.

We join the convoy...

When the Toodyay convoy arrived the kids were thrilled to be together again and were thankful for the good company they made. Together we headed off to Well 28, with clearings for camps under ti-tree bush and then onto Well 29, that offers no possibility of camping. We found a half decent camp (but it was already full to overflowing) along the track to Thring Rock and enjoyed a group night of conversation and stories about what we'd all done over the last 2 days since we last met up.

Wells 27, 28, 29

Day 13	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Tuesday 15th July	Well 29/Thring Rock	Well 33	?
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Max speed
?	?	?	?

The kids boil the billy - Thring Rock

Group departure much later than our usual getaway, with one vehicle somehow squeezing 6 people, 5 swags and the usual bulk that needs packing up each day.

Thring Rock isn't terribly exciting, no walks up, and too small to hardly bother walking around. We took our pics and drove on towards Well 30 in convoy for the first time in many years. This Toodyay mob were a good group actually and quite a mix of ages, personalities, vehicles and setups but all were like-minded easy going travellers so it was quite amicable. Rob - the lead driver of the Toodyay group had actually been on the CSR once before a few years ago when it was very flooded and he had not been able to get past Well 37 I think. He kept saying it was such a different trip then, and it was interesting to hear of the contrasts.

Some good camps are just a short drive away on the left before the site of the well and the track off to the Mujingerra Cave is immediately opposite the well site on the right. We ventured the 3.6km along the track to the cave but as predicted it wasn't much of a sight as it has now collapsed and it is not realistic for visitors to get into the cave itself. Here we were passed by a group of Sydney drivers (7 in their convoy) who were a day behind us when we left Durba and we never even caught a glimpse of their dust for the rest of the trip so they were certainly moving along at a quick pace.

At Well 31 we found bits of coverplate and the windlass but a collapsed hole where the well had once been. It was set in nice surroundings with large white gums giving shaded campsites beneath. East of the well we had read of the existence of Snell's Well so David and I ventured out on the heavily overgrown track to attempt to find it. It didn't actually take too long, but the tracks disappeared totally and we had to follow our noses (with a little help from the GPS), til we found the site of the well exactly as described in the Gard's book set on a small soak in the middle of a claypan but all physical evidence of the existence of a well here had long gone.

From here to Well 33 the track is very uncomfortable. The corrugations are bad enough to make comment upon and there were many vehicles limping into the Kunawarritji Community having suffered broken shocks as a result of this section. 

Our group escaped unscathed by the corrugations and found Well 32 on the edge of the track on the right with just 1 shady tree on the left to park beneath and then finally reached the cross roads with the Wapet/Gary Highway and 3.4km on to arrive at Well 33 at 4pm in the afternoon.

Water Supply at Well 33 from bore opposite the site of Original Well 33

We found quite a number of vehicles already camped here but they had left a large grassy camp area immediately opposite the windmill vacant. We heard on the UHF radios that the Sydney group had decided to move on ahead so the grassy spot was ours to spread our 4 vehicles across.

You'd think we'd never seen water before with everyone keen to freshen up grubby children and attend to emergency washing.

The tail-end charlie of the Toodyay group was a new model Nissan Nivara ute - just ideal for carrying wood so he always arrived to camp last to find the firepit prepared, kindling burning, ready to take on the logs they had collected along the way and it was no different today.

However, we were just beginning to start cooking our meals when we were visited by guitar-laden people from the opposite camp bearing camp chairs and wine glasses asking if they could join us for a campfire sing-along. I think they were very surprised to see we hadn't eaten yet, but I think they were running on NT time, not WA time and were operating 2 hours later than we were. The kids loved the familiar bush ballards and "give me a home amongst the gum trees" that penetrated the airwaves for the next few hours. All good stuff for them to be experiencing on a trip like this.

As for us adults, arriving at Well 33 felt a little like an achievement. The Rodeo in the Toodyay convoy certainly felt so, having made it all the way here from Well 6 without a fuel line feeding diesel into the engine (see Part 2 for details explained previously), and for the others, that we had correctly calculated our fuel consumption and made it to the bowsers of the Kunawarritji Community without incident.