We headed out today along the Hammersley Iron Railway Service Road to Millstream
National Park. The drive was really pretty as it cut through the mountain ranges and we
took lots of video footage. We arrived at Millstream NP early in the afternoon and drove
the full circuit before choosing to camp at Crossing Pool where we swam in very cool water
in a large river right beside our camp. It is difficult to remain affloat for too long in
fresh water so David rigged up a rope hanging from a tree for us to hang onto whilst in
the water. It was another 40 degree day and the water was very refreshing. I rang Mum that
night and learned that our dog Bear had eaten snail pellets and had to go to the vet for
an overnight visit. We really hope she is OK.
DAY 113 Thursday 12th November
Because we were able to explore Millstream yesterday we decided to move on to Karijini
National Park. Again, we took the route via HI service road.
Just as we entered the park we stoped for swim at the first gorge - Hammersley
Gorge and went upstream to find the "spa pool" as we
had seen pictured in the Tourist Office and on postcards. It was almost better in reality.
After a few hours we walked back up the steep rock steps to find a cool spot for lunch.
We drove for an hour without finding one bit of shade and arrived at Dale's Gorge and camp
ground. We were so disappointed to find only red rocks and red dust and absolutely no
shade in the camp ground. Each NP in WA costs $8 per vehicle entry fee for as many days as
you like but then camping is $8 per couple per night on top of that. Neither the Adcocks
nor us had anything smaller than $50 notes so we didn't pay at the self-registration
centre and figured we'd pay the ranger who we expected would arrive in the morning. After
setting up camp we walked down the steep steps to Dales Gorge and swam until it was
nearing sunset and then returned exhausted to cook our camp dinners.
DAY 114 Friday 13th November
The ranger didn't arrive until we had driven off but nabbed Dorothy and Rob. We thought
we'd stop in at the visitors centre as suggested in the NP brochure. It was a joke to see
- 3 caravans and a tent that was meant to be the centre. However, it was boarded up and
very "visitor unfriendly". Even the advertised water-fill station had a notice
stating that the water was untreated and should be boiled - we didn't bother. We continued
on to Kalimina Gorge where the boys swam but Dorothy and I took photos. It was getting
hotter and we agreed to just visit the lookouts and not attempt the long, steep climbs
down and then back up to visit each gorge.
We saw them all; Joffre Gorge, Knox Gorge, Hancock and Weano Gorges. To
get photos we realised you would need to walk down to the bottom of the gorges, most being
at least an hour or two effort. In the 40 degree heat we didn't bother and resigned
ourselves to purchasing the beautiful postcards we'd seen at the tourist office
Joffre Gorge - view from lookout
After our whirlwind tour of the gorges we'd had enough and started to drive out of the
NP towards Tom Price. At precisely 12 o'clock on Black Friday, Rob called us from behind
on the UHF radio and said he'd had a tyre blowout. We turned back to help him and spent
the next 45minutes in the searing heat removing the shattered tyre remains from around his
suspension and fitting the spare wheel.
We finally rolled into Tom Price around 3pm and set up camp in the town's only caravan
park at the base of Mt Nameless, WA's highest mountain.
DAY 115 Saturday 14th November
Yesterday afternoon Dorothy and I left the boys at camp, did the shopping, and visited
the Tourist Office. We had intended to book us all on the morning tour of the Tom Price
Hammersely Iron open cut mine. The tour was almost full so we booked the boys on only,
thinking we could better spend our time doing the washing!
At 8am the boys (David, Rob, and children) left the camp ground. Dorothy and I did do
the washing and then I got stuck into cleaning the dust off everything from inside the
trailer. The seals of the trailer doors didn't seem to be working too well and everything
was covered a lovely shade of red!
The boys returned and were very impressed with the mine operation, saying it was just
soooo big! The rest of the day we lazed about in the pool and did our cleaning chores.
DAY 116 Sunday 15th November
I'm going to blame Dorothy for choosing our next destination (they blamed me for
choosing the worst camp ground at Port Hedland, so it's only fair). We left Tom Price via
the "shortcut" to the coast, missing Parrabadoo the residential and shopping
centre for the miners. In doing so, we shortened our trip by 100km but only 5km into the
dirt track we had a stone flick up and smash our rear door window. Yes, the second
breakage of its type this trip. We made a roadside repair with tape and were soon on our
way again. The trip really was very spectacular and we all agreed that the Pilbera area is
very special.
So just where did Dorothy take us? To a small town called Onslow. Admittedly, the
brochures did say it was a fishing haven and there were the beautiful Sunset and Sunrise
beaches to visit. We had even seen a television ad campain that led us to believe it would
be absolutely beautiful. There were two caravan parks and a commercial fishing port. When
we finally arrived at Onslow we had trouble finding even one of the caravan parks. All the
shops were closed and there was not a person in sight.
There was little shade when we finally found the "beachfront" caravan park
but we chose a front row position and set up a tarp. What we couldn't believe was the
colour of the water - it was muddy brown. There had been absolutely no rain and the name
of the beach? Mangrove Passage. Delightful.
A few hours before dinner, David and Rob suggested it was time to visit the local
establishment. They came back a few hours later having met the entire town and learned all
there is to know about Onslow. Onslow is the mecca for miners from Tom Price. They come
for a 4 day weekend to fish and relax. It is their idea of paradise. The barman was
leaving town the following day and told Rob and David that he enjoyed serving normal
people and so they were treated to free drinks for the rest of their stay.
DAY 117 Monday 16th November
Our main reason for coming to Onslow was the reputed excellent fishing. We located the
hot spots - Sunset Beach which really did look like a beautiful place to beach camp and
had lots of shade but one of those nasty signs we've come to despise - NO CAMPING. We
tried to beach fish but only lasted a few casts and gave up. It was very windy and withing
seconds of casting our lines ended up washed up on the shore. Add to that the water was
gritty and muddy that it was revolting to stand knee deep, as you do when beach fishing.
We moved on to 4 Mile Creek and spent a couple of hours with no better luck other than
a few catfish and a crab that got away.
We spent the afternoon reading, shell collecting and David did an oil change. Dinner
was not fish and so we had a revolting tin of Spaghetti and Beef sauce. The kids went to
bed early and so we pulled out the Mahjong set and taught Dorothy and Rob how to play. .
