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Gunbarrel | Tanami | North Kimberley | Broome Region | East Pilbara

EAST KIMBERLEY TRIP DIARY
DAYS 16 - 23

Day sixteen	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Saturday 7/7/01	Bush camp	Bungles	151.4km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Max speed
2.54hr	38.6km/hr	3.55hrs	102.8km/hr

It seemed we were set to have the first rainy day of our trip, but it cleared as we approached the Spring Creek Track at 10am. The condition of this access track into the Bungle Bungles is the cause of great controversy and speculation. It is definitely 4WD only due to the river crossings and terrain and we did use low range a couple of times. We certainly didn’t feel it was a difficult or even rough track, in fact we felt it was a highlight of the whole Bungle Bungle experience. 

The views are sensational and if you are travelling in convoy, you’ll probably be tempted to get a few photos of one another’s river crossings. Although, the crossings weren’t terribly deep – at most up to top of wheels, many of the crossings are dense with vegetation with sweeping views of river bends, beautiful river gums and pandanus.  If you talk to the “caravaners” however, you may hear that “its quite a rough road!”. Caravan’s are not permitted access into the Bungles and people who tow trailers will take a fair bit longer than those that don’t however loads of people tow camper trailers in with absolutely no problem at all.

The first part of the trip into the Bungles involves a 53km trek through undulating country with around 50 creek crossings. This access track passes through the Mabel Downs Station and camping is strictly prohibited and a 50km/hr speed limit is enforced. This part of the trip will take and around 2hrs. At the 53km mark, you will come across the ranger station where you will need to pay your entry fee (or quote your park pass number) and pay for camping - $9 per person. There are a choice of 2 camp grounds and you will need to nominate which one you intend to use at the time of paying your fees.

We chose the Kurrajong Camp, just 6km further on and after setting up camp drove a further 16km to the Echidna Chasm where an easy walk along a rocky river bed led into a narrow chasm, similar to Standley Chasm. Echidna Chasm is actually far more spectacular at about triple the length and with great surrounding views. This is the northern end of the Bungle Bungle range, which is quite different to the southern end, where the well-known beehive domes are found.

The boys later walked to the Frog Hole Gorge, a short but difficult scramble to a waterhole, whilst the girls drove back along the track for sunset photos.

It was dusk when we arrived back at camp with too much rain cloud for a sensational sunset view of the massif so we sat back and enjoyed our evening without feeling slack for not making the additional journey to the sunset lookout.

 

Day seventeen	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Sunday 8/7/01	Bungles	Bungles	66.2km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
1.03hrs	36km/hr	1.5hrs	2.53hrs

After a slow morning of washing and computer duties, we headed off from our base camp at Kurrajong to the far end of the Bungles – 1 hr, 10minutes, to the Piccaninny Creek car park where we planned to spend the day walking. From Kurrajong camp to the 3 ways intersection is 5.8km, taking 11minutes. We stopped for a few photos along the way but it was still just over an hour to our destination – we had been told it would take 1.5hrs.

There are 3 walks from the car park 1. Piccaninny Creek (total length 30km) 2. Dome Walk (1km loop) and 3. Cathedral Gorge (2km- which can take in the dome walk at either the start or finish). We spent 3hrs walking, with extensive photo stops – we also ventured along the first part of the Piccaninny Creek walk (just a few hundred metres) to take in the views of the dry creek bed set against the bungle range.

On the way back to camp Leah had a nappy “blowout” which covered her car seat and needed urgent attention, really making everyone’s day. By the end of the day, we were all totally “shuttered” out and although it was a magnificent sunset we couldn’t be bothered going to the lookout for more photos – even though it was also the night of the full moon!

Day eighteen	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Monday 9/7/01	Bungles	Kununarra	313km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
2.03hrs	64.1km/hr	4.53hrs	6.57hrs

We all decided that to do a Bungle trip you really need to allow a day to drive in and to setup camp, with possibly the walks at the Echidna Chasm end. Another full day is needed to do the beehive domes with Cathedral Gorge etc as the driving distances are much longer, with the final day being left for the long trek back out to the highway and onto Kununurra. The suggested driving times from the Bungles to Halls Creek is 4hrs, with Kununurra being 5 hrs away. We found this about spot on, although we tend to stop for baby-breaks etc, hence our stats above. So, we left Kurrajong Camp at 9.15am and it was after 3.30pm when we made it into Kununurra.

At the end of the 2hr trek out of the Bungles to the highway, we stopped to chat to a couple heading in – Adam and Sue who were on the final leg of their on/off again 9 ½ yrs of working travel around Australia. They had some great info to share about Kalumburu where we are headed but surprisingly, in all that time travelling they have never ventured far from the coast and have not done the Simpson Desert, Oodnadatta Track, Gunbarrel, Tanami etc. They were well setup for fishing, so that’s probably the reason. Anyway, they were very friendly and it is always refreshing to met other young couples making a good go at travelling.

The final leg of the drive along the Great Northern Highway from the Spring Creek turnoff to Kununurra was very scenic. Although we’ve done the Gibb River Road a few years ago and enjoyed the ranges, we found this section to be equally impressive. Most of the creek crossings had water, and the surrounding plains were green and most plants and flowers were in bloom. In contrast, when we were last in the region it was October so seeing it at this time is quite different.

The major drawback is the number of other travellers. We are right in the middle of the school holidays and it seems everyone has a fully setup 4WD and is off on a great adventure. Sandy found a great quote from a book for the definition of Adventure – “participating in an exciting, possibly hazardous enterprise with an uncertain outcome”.

We stopped for lunch at Turkey Creek, which although just a shack from the road, is a well stocked roadhouse, caravan park, and major heli tour location for Bungles scenic flights. A helicopter flight from the heliport in the bungles will cost you $185pp whilst out on the highway at Turkey Creek it is $190pp. We didn’t get to view the Bungles from the air, and at this point in time I’m not disappointed. 3 days of rocks was about enough for most of us – amazing as they were. Anyway, got to leave something for next time!

Kununurra also was quite different to how we saw it last time. Dunham Creek is quite full, with possible campsites by the river – not sure if you are allowed bush camping here though. There are also many bush camp opportunities along the Parry Creek Road, but all are signed No camping – fines up to $1000. We found locals and travellers camping or day stopping at all of these.

Day nineteen	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Tuesday 10/7/01	Kununarra	Kununarra	-
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
-	-	-	-

Much needed rest day for both bodies and vehicles, although “rest” included 4 loads of washing, food shopping, oil and grease change plus picking up “the ST Cooper tyre” replaced from Coopers head office under warranty (see Gunbarrel section for details). We found Kununurra had changed little since we last came through in 1998. The Coles supermarket is now 24hrs, the local butcher has a good range of meats which he can cryovac for you and there are 2 vegie shops to choose from plus the local melon farm for cheap melons and other fresh local produce out on the Ivanhoe Road.

We decided that with so much domestic activity we had seen very little of Kununurra’s sights and had little chance for fishing so we planned to spend another day to “rest and enjoy”. A few things around town interested us – the dam wall was open to allow overflow from the diversion dam, which meant the Ivanhoe Crossing was flooded and impassable – the fishing from below the dam wall was apparently quite productive and Sandy, our photographer extraordinaire, was getting very excited about the sunsets.  David bought some bait from the Shell depot but found the turbulence was too strong as they had opened another dam door.

Day twenty	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Wednesday 11/7/01	Kununurra	Kununurra	96.6km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
5.2hrs	40.7km/hr	2.21hrs	7.42hrs

We headed up Parry’s Creek Road today to stop at the 3 rock holes for swimming and for barra fishing in the Lower Ord River. The turnoff to the first rock hole – Valentine Springs is only about 10minutes drive west of Kununurra. The turnoff on the right-hand side is well marked and well used by tourists. 2WD access is currently possible for the 6km run to this rock hole, but water crossings and soft stretches of sand make further travel along Parry’s Creek Road only possible for 4WDs.

North of Valentine Spring, taking the right-hand turn at the Y-junction will take you to the northern end of the Ivanhoe Crossing, where we stopped for some time.

Doubling back to the Y-junction and continuing straight-on we came to the Middle Spring turn-off on the left-hand side. This spring was becoming stagnant, although some locals had setup for a day with the kids there. As much as these spots look ideal for bush camping signs are prominent stating “No Camping Fines up to $1000”. Further north on Parry’s Creek Road on the left is the turn-off to Black Rock Pool and the access track was quite soft and sandy, claiming one 2WD Tarago! The funny part was we recognised him as our “neighbour” from the caravan park and thought he could repay his “recovery” by taking us out on his boat…

After pulling out of Black Rock Pool we saw the marked turnoff to Button’s Crossing, a well-used fishing spot on the lower Ord River. David and Colin patiently tossed lures around but no result. There are numerous tracks all over the place here, so we took off along some to find some more fishing spots. The Ord is a fantastic sight and it really did look like barra would be here. Dave and I ended up getting bogged when we missed the track and found ourselves in a soft bit of alluvial sand where the river once ran but after letting some air out of the tyres we made our way out and back onto the track. With still no barra, we went back to the Ivanhoe Crossing and watched the locals and their skilled cast netting efforts. They were quite surprised that they weren’t netting any bait fish and said that meant no barra so we called it a day and headed back to town in time for setting up for sunset photos.

David gave me “an hour off”, which meant he took care of Leah and her dinner whilst I drove out with the tripod and cameras to find my own bit of peace and serenity to end the day… only thing missing was a bottle of champagne, but then again… I’m still breastfeeding so such luxuries are still out of reach for a while yet.

Day twenty one	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Thursday 12/7/01	Kununurra	Wyndham	150.6km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
2.52hrs	64.5km/hr	2.2hrs	5.12hrs

Our agreed plan for today was to drive up to Wyndham in the morning with enough time in the day to visit the crocodile farm and see the sunset from the Five Rivers Lookout. But we are all getting so good at fiddling around in the morning with last minute tasks that we didn’t get more than a few kilometres out of town until after lunch. One diversion was a visit to the Zebra Rock Gallery, which was actually well worth the stop. Besides seeing the “Zebra” rock, which comes from previous mining days from a quarry that now lies beneath Lake Argyle, the gallery is set on a magnificent property that visitors are made welcome to wander. We found it easy to spend a few hours – we were given bread to feed the catfish off the jetty, spoke to “Charlie the Crow” that is really a Raven who really does talk – it has to be seen to be believed! And of course, coffee, scones and sandwiches at the café.  The drive out to the gallery passes through farming property so even the drive there is worthwhile.

So, finally after lunch we made our way out to the Great Northern Highway. From the intersection of the Wyndham – Kununurra Road and the Halls Creek turn-off, its 22km to the Grotto, a spectacular gorge with fairly easy walking access. The steep path down from the top of the plateau into the gorge looks difficult but the placement of the steps is done such that it is quite an easy walk, taking about 5minutes to get down and about 10minutes to get up. The falls were dry and the water was turning stagnant but during the wet and earlier in the dry this can be a very nice swimming hole.

I think we made it into Wyndham around 2pm and even though the tour and croc feeding is done at 11am, we still spent our $12 each to wander around the Crocodile Farm. The crocs were rather still but it was a good visit all the same. Seeing the “farming” pens was fascinating, with zillions of baby salties snapping and crawling over one another. We picked up a good phrase in Kununurra from a local who called crocs “snapping handbags” – which has become our favourite saying so far.

After making a hasty camp at the town camping ground (excellent actually) and a rushed bottle shop purchase, we headed up the steep and windy road to the top of the Bastion Range, which forms the backdrop to Wyndham, with the Five Rivers Lookout at the highest point (360m). No sooner had we arrived than we were approached by Garth and Therese, who said they were “fans” of ExplorOz.com and proceeded to pull out colour print-offs of our entire trek notes that they have used to travel around Australia. The sun was beginning to set, Leah was demanding her dinner, David was busying preparing sunset snacks and drinks and then another pair recognised us and wanted to chat. It sure wasn’t a bad location for sharing stories with spectacular views of the five rivers – Ord, Forrest, King, Durack and Pentecost Rivers, all which enter the Cambridge Gulf and surrounding mangrove swamps, mudflats and hills. Directly below we watched a container ship patiently wait for the tide to rise so he could approach the port.

At the end of the day we ended back down to our camp at the town camping ground/caravan park for a bbq.

Day twenty two	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Friday 13/7/01	Wyndham	King River bush camp	37.3km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
1.1hr	38km/hr	58mins	2.09hrs

Another morning of fluffing around... After lifting camp we fuelled up – Wyndham is a good place for this, with prices usually less than Kununurra. Being our last opportunity to stock up before the Gibb River Road and Kalumburu Roads, we did a wander through the supermarket, which was well stocked with meats, fresh dairy products, bread and other basic supplies. And the bakery had hot pies, fresh bread and rolls and sweet pastries like apple turnovers with cream!

As we’ve previously done the Gibb River Road, we planned to drive from Wyndham to the Pentecost Crossing via the Karunjie Road that runs along the King River then follows the Pentecost before meeting up with the Gibb River Road at the Pentecost Crossing. The turnoff is on the RHS just 6km south of Wyndham. The first 25km is on very good dirt road with sign posts to some worthwhile sights such as the Moochalabra Dam, Aboriginal Cave Paintings, King River Crossing, Boab Prison Tree and finally at 74km, the Gibb River Road at the Pentecost Crossing.

There is a fabulous bush campsite with bins under a huge boab tree at the Moochalabra Dam, and lots of great fishing camps along the King River (RHS). These are not marked, but following any of the numerous tracks off to the right will lead to decent camps between 10 – 200m off the road.

We chose our campsite at the last RHS track before the rocky crossing of the King River and the Prison Tree. This track winds around the river for 1-2km to a hilly camp on a double bank above the river.

The King River is known by the locals as the best spot to catch decent barra so David had prepared himself by purchasing a cast net for catching baitfish. The King River was his first use of it after buying it in Kununurra for $56. His first cast was a beauty, bringing in a bucket-load of mullet for baitfish. But after fishing for a while from the camp Colin and David decided that this wasn’t the ideal barra spot and decided to drive back along the King River in search of another fishing spot. Sandy, Leah and I stayed behind under the shade of some lovely trees at our camp.

A few hours later the boys returned but without fish – Dave had returned his unused mullet to the river at our camp before heading off and was unable to catch any more bait because he snagged the cast net on a submerged tree at the next spot – he was VERY disappointed to say the least! Camp oven dinner had to do.

Day twenty three	Start	Stop	Trip Odometer
Saturday 14/7/01	King River	Pentecost River (Karunjie Road)	53km
Stopped time	Moving average	Moving time	Total time
1.31hrs	28.6km/hr	3.22hrs	3.22hrs

This morning we awoke to find that our river camp was indeed a great barra fishing spot – it was tidal, whereas yesterday we had thought it was not. By 9am David had caught 4 barra but all were around 45cm and that’s just a bit undersized so none were kept.

We lifted camp by 10.15am and headed towards the Gibb River Road. Just past the Prison Tree (RHS after King River Crossing) is a Y-junction. The left junction is marked El Questro, although the homestead itself is on the southern side of the GRR. Unless you intend going to El Questro, you need to take the right fork to head towards the Pentecost River. Then you meet a gate at a junction – the right fork is sign posted to the “Digger’s Rest”, a farmstay, but to get to the GRR you continue through the gate, leaving it as you find it.

From here the track deteriorates slightly, with travel becoming a little slower as the driving terrain alternates between rocky creek beds and along single wheel tracks through long grass.

To the south, spectacular views of the Chamberlain Range provide opportunities to get photos of some of the best ranges in the Kimberley. The track changes again as you pass through the 2nd gate on your approach to the Chamberlain River, entering very thick bulldust. This is cattle country and livestock is on the path, especially around creeks.

The final section of the track as it swings towards the Pentecost deteriorates significantly and a high clearance 4WD is necessary. The last few dry river beds are extremely eroded and the track is totally washed out, so low range 4WD and heavy articulation over rock steps is required.

Immediately on the RHS are tracks to the Pentecost River with excellent campsites and fishing access. Quite different to our trip here in 1998, the Pentecost this year is in full flow at this time and very popular with campers. We selected the 2nd last campsite before the crossing on the east side of the river.

We were surprised at how crowded this area of the world has become – the crossing had a constant flow of traffic over it all through the evening, from road trains, tourist buses and other travellers. And, the majority of travellers are towing camper trailers. For people who have never ventured into this part of Australia and think that the Kimberley is a remote, largely inaccessible region are very misguided by the media! You can’t get away from people here.