Flinders Ranges - Sept 2008

We had planned to go to the Flinders for a month or so. Everything was set. Car checked over, rear storage finished, and Kaymar wheel carrier repaired and swing out jerry can holder fitted. All we had to do was pack and get going. This was our 2nd family trip to the Flinders Ranges and my 10th.

Our basic itinerary was as follows;

Sat - Travel to Willow Springs. Camp overnight
Sun - Skytrek. Camp overnight
Mon - Travel to Parachilna Gorge via Bunyeroo Valley, Brachina Gorge, & Parachilna
Tues & Wed - Artimore ruin, Patawarta Gap,Nuccellena mine, and if time permits maybe another short trip. We'll play it by ear
Thurs - Travel home

This is what eventuated

Saturday 27th Sept. We finally left home nearly two hours after our planned departure time. The plan was to travel via Gawler, Burra, Peterborough, including a cup of tea at Willem's place, Orroroo, Craddock & Hawker to refuel. Well we didn't get to stop for the cuppa because we were running so late, but we did refuel at Hawker - 51 litres for 400km, or 12.75L/100km for a 92 4Runner 2.8D with a stiff head wind and a roofrack bag full of gear. This was a bit more than our overall average for our Fraser Island trip last year, which included 10 days driving on the island.

After refuelling we headed on to Willow Springs to set up camp. I was surprised to see that the road from Wilpena to Blinman is being sealed. I'm not 100% convinced yet. Although it provides a good all weather surface that is suitable for any vehicle it takes away some of the "spirit of adventure". Upon arriving at Willow springs we booked in and set up camp. Ah, that first beer tasted good. And the second. After dinner we sat around for a while but as it was quite a warm night we soon got infested with bugs, which drove the kids mad. So we retired to the main tent for a few games of Yahtzee.

This was the first time our kids had slept in their own tents so it was going to be interesting to see how they went. All was OK in the morning and I was up at about 6.30 for an early coffee and a stroll.

Sunday - After breakfast we headed out for a quick shower, then off to do the Skytrek. I had worked in this area with the Department of Primary Industries back in the late 80's and again in the early 90's and had seen a fair bit of the area, but there was lots I didn't get to see as well. This was a great trip with lots of contrasting terrain. I did manage, somehow, to get hung up on a large rock at one stage when climbing the hill up to Murray's Lookout, which stalled the car and made it jump toward the edge of the track. But we were soon back on track again.

The view from Mt Caernarvon was nothing short of spectacular. Signed the book, and we were off again. Took the track out to Skull Rock. This is an interesting formation which, with a bit of imagination, does actually look like a skull. From here we headed back to the homestead, grabbed some firewood, then back to camp for the rest of the day.

Monday - Just before sunrise Deb got up to go to the loo. She dived back into the tent puffing, saying "there's a kangaroo just out there". No joke, they do live around here. Good thing the zip on the tent was open.

Nic & I got up early and went for a walk along the creek. At 13, he's really getting a taste for the outdoors. We walked for an hour or so and looked at everything that looked remotely interesting. So back for brekkie. Oh no, we forgot the bacon. What were we going to have?

After packing up and heading off (about 10:30am) we drove to Wilpena to do a little bit of shopping. Seems that Deb had left here toothbrush home. So after a small bit of shopping, including lollies, ice creams, a couple of drinks, some new O rings for the gas cooker, some bacon (and no toothbrushes - this must be the most "left at home" item), and a park day pass we were off again.

We turned off on the Bunyeroo Valley track where I let Kirri-Ann take over the wheel. She has only had here license for a few months and it was a good exersise in vehicle control as we were fully loaded. We headed along the track, stopped here and there, and then turned into Brachina Gorge. We parked the car and headed off on foot, armed with map & compass, water, and GPS, in search of Lubra Water. I went there back in 1980 while on a Geology field trip with school. So we walked, and walked, and checked the map as we went. Buggered if we could find Lubra Water. Maybe it has become overgrown and dried up in the 28 years since I went there. All I remember of it was a deepish pool in a rocky area, kind of like an oasis.

So we hiked back to the car and headed off through the gorge. Our destination was Parachilna, then into Parachilna Gorge to set up camp for 3 nights.

We set up early, lit a fire, and cooked our barby. The flies there were out of control! I've never seen them so bad. And yet, walk 200m up the road and they weren't any worse than usual. After dinner, more Yahtzee, then off to sleep.

Tuesday - Up early and a quick wander around where the kids came across a couple of roos. Nic was able to get within 5m of one laying under a bush. He proceeded to take 6 pictures of it. He wants to do something with animals when he gets older. I think he would make a great Park Ranger.

After breakfast of eggs, bacon and baked beans we headed off in search of a couple of Geocaches. As it happened, we had camped halfway between two caches. The first one was a walk to an info bay which is also the start (and finish) of the Heysen Trail. No luck despite a comprehensive search. Then back to camp to pick up the car, and off in search of cache #2. This one was an easy find, and was within 50m of where we were going to camp, until we decided that it wasn't a very nice spot.

Back in the car, we headed into Blinman, where we grabbed an ice cream and had a sit in the shade. Across the road I spotted a bloke sitting under a veranda watching a concrete mixer. So with Giant Twins in hand I wandered over to see what he was up to. He welcomed the interruption and proceeded to explain that the buildin, of pine and pug construction, belonged to his family and was about 160 years old. In fact, as he explained, it was the house attached to the original Blinman Store. He has been restoring the building over a period of years, replacing posts here and there, and re-levelling the walls. This fellow was a school teacher from Adelaide (born in Peterborough) and comes up during his time off to work on the house. He said that he has some of the original furniture and artifacts from the house that he plans to put back in as a display once it is finished. With all of that I bid him farewell and we headed off.

We headed off out along the Wirreanda road until we found the turnoff to Narrina. Then we headed off down the Artimore track (PAR #4) for something different. Talk about a rough track. This was some of the roughest terrain I have driven on for many years. It was along here that the "vintage" glass in my Primus gas lantern was broken. It would have been at least 25 years old, and had been cracked for at least 20 of those years. This was a great drive - plenty of washouts, steep sided creek crossings, driving along creek beds, and traversing some beautiful country. We arrived at Artimore thinking "how the hell did they ever think they could farm out here back then?". But they did. It's inhospitable country and my thoughts were of the women and children that were dragged out here in the promise of a better life. Of course, as we know, many people, children particularly, perished in these harsh conditions. It makes you wonder what it was like out there 150 years ago. Was water more plentiful, was it as hot, were there as many bloody flies? All I know for sure was that at night it would have been as black as the inside of a dogs guts. But what a view of the stars they would have.

We were going to head out to Patawarta Gap (turn off at the wrecked 37 Ford ute) but we thought we didn't have time. So we continued along the track and in to Moolooloo station. From there we followed the track to Nuccellena mine. Discovered by Finke, one begs the question, what was he doing riding through there in the first place? In its short heyday there were approximately 100 men working out there. I bet it was a rough old place in its day.

After looking at the mine ruins we walked back to the car. When I started the car I heard this awful rattle. A quick inspection found that a nut had come off one of the exhaust hangers. So a quick fix and "oh no, whats that oil doing there?" At first I thought I had a hole in my oil filter. But then I grabbed the RH drive shaft and it was as loose as a whatsname in a shirt sleeve. Whats the go with that I thought. Somewhere along these rough tracks our front drive shaft was damaged (extent yet unknown). We managed to travel along unaided and unhindered, even using 4WD in some areas where we needed to. It didn't seem to be too drastic. Must have happened on the Artimore track I reckon as it was extremely rough in parts. So we drove back to camp, all the while paying attention to any strange noises.

Tuesday night we settled down to a campfire and the best Chicken Parmy I've ever had. We decided that we shouldn't risk driving around unnecessarily with the damaged front end so we will head home Wednesday morning.

Wednesday - We had a bush bath and a quick Weetbix and then packed up camp fairly quick as light rain was threatening. It didn't turn into anything, and we were on the road by just after 9am. A quick stop at Blinman to wash our hands and have a toilet stop, and it was homeward bound.

We stopped at Hawker to refuel and grab a pie, and then off again. This time we took the dirt road to Craddock. Deb & I decided we would stop off at Willem's place for that cup of tea he promised us. When we got there he wasn't home. So off again.

We arrived home at around 4pm after a long but uneventful journey. When I opened the tailgate I saw a black deposit on the underside of the panel. What now? A look under the car revealed a busted exhaust just after the muffler. It appears to have been repaired at some stage, albeit a very poor repair job. So now I have a use for that 2 1/2" sports muffler in the shed. Oh well, gives me something to do next week.

Trip casualties

- Drive shaft
- "vintage" glass in our Primus lantern
- Muffler
- 1 exhaust hanger nut (gone to the big nuthouse in the sky)

Pictures added on 2-10-08

Louie the fly & family.
1st October 2008

Click Image to Enlarge

There is a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot.