Bradby Trip 23 to 30 August 2009 Days 66 to 73 Kununurra to El Questro and the Bungle Bungles

23 and 24 August 2009 Days 66 and 67 – Kununurra. We left Parry’s Lagoon at 8 00 am with the intent of continuing along the Parry’s Creek Road and into Kununarra. Along the way we stopped in at Mambi Island Boat ramp and coamping area to check it out. It’s a great free camp on the Lower Ord River and ideal as a base for a few days fishing after we go to El Quetro and the Bungle Bungles.

We also stopped in at Black Rock Waterhole and Middle Springs along the way . Neither on these spots had much water in them but we imagine they would be very picturesque after the wet season.



Not long after those stops we reached Ivanhoe Crossing which had just over a foot of water rushing over the crossing. After successfully negotiating the crossing we stopped to watch a few other cars cross before making our way into Kununurra.



Before we went to the Ivanhoe Caravan Park we dropped the outboard motor off at Ord River Outboards where Ben promised to have a service completed on the outboard by lunch the next day – great service.

The rest of the day was spent relaxing around the caravan park pool, catching up on the blog and phone calls. Monday is a restocking morning, pick up the motor and head out to El Questro for 3 or 4 days to explore the gorges and springs and then on to the Bungle Bungles.

24 to 27 August 2009 Days 67 and 70 – El Questro. We arrived at El Questro mid afternoon after an enjoyable drive mainly on the black top from Kununarra except for the last 40 km which was in really good condition. We went straight to the reception to book a campsite for 3 nights, we could either camp in the main camping area or take a more secluded campsite along the river – we chose the river option and were directed to a great site about 5 km from the main area where all the facilities were located.



Next morning we were up early to start exploring the gorges and springs, we started with a walk into Zebedee Springs and a relaxing soak in the hot springs that are fed from deep underground, the water temperature is around 28 to 30 degrees. Unfortunately we arrived around the time a tour group of retirees turned up so it was quite busy and not so quiet and relaxing. (insert from Linda – I felt like I was sharing my bath with about 30 over 70 year olds – yuck – I only lasted a few minutes and got out and took photos instead))



Next we were off to walk Moonshine Gorge which was good fun along a mostly dry river bed to a small pool at the end that was great to have a dip in – we had this one to ourselves. (much better – Linda) The temperature has steadily risen over the last couple of weeks and most days the midday temperature is up around 37 degrees so any walk that has a swim involved is always a welcome treat.



We had intended doing another gorge walk but the heat beat us and we decided that after lunch we’d explore some 4 wheel drive tracks to a couple of lookouts and Explosion and Chamberlain gorges. The views from Saddleback Lookout were spectacular and the drive up to the lookout good fun is was really steep, rocky and the views well worth the drive.



The drive into Explosion gorge was also quite rough with lots of rock hopping but again the gorge is stunning and we got some great photos.



On the way into Chamberlain Gorge which also has a 3 km waterhole we were able to see the exclusive El Questro accommodation which sits on top of the gorge with the deck area overhanging the gorge – its very exclusive accommodation with the price tag to match.



The next morning we walked into El Questro Gorge which involves wading across a pool to scale a large boulder before we were able to complete the second part of the walk to the end of the gorge which finishes at a waterfall and pool (this part nearly bought me to tears, I was so stressed by the climb – Linda) – its really spectacular and well worth the hard walk and scramble over the boulders to get to the end. The gorge walls are very high and quite narrow most of the way so for much of the walk we were in the shade.



After lots of swimming and lunch in the gorge we went back to camp for a relaxing arvo sitting on the riverbank watching Jack….. yes you guessed it – fishing!! He caught and released dozens of sooty grunter and archer fish and thoroughly enjoyed it. The water was very clear so he was sight fishing and giving us a commentary of what he was about to catch, what the ate, how large the grow etc– he loves his fishing.

Each afternoon we’d drive up to the main camping area and have a shower in the excellent facilities followed by a campfire each night. Linda has perfected her damper cooking skills, branching out to adding in mixed fruit (Jack has asked for chocolate bits next time) and it’s a real treat having damper hot off the fire each night and , if there’s any left, for breakfast next morning.



We packed up next morning early and drove to Emma Gorge on the way to the Bungle Bungles (Purnululu). Emma Gorge was stunning and probably the best gorge and pool we’ve been to, the walk in was similar to the other El Questro gorges in many ways but the waterfall and pool are absolutely brilliant and quite a surprise. After a relaxing swim and another at the Resort pool we headed off for the 270 km drive to the Bungle Bungles.

27 to 30 August 2009 Days 70 and 73 – Bungle Bungles. The drive is mainly on bitumen except for the last 50 or so kms into the Park Visitor Centre where we paid our camping fees and headed off to the 7 km to the northern Kurrajong camping area. All reports had us expecting a really rough slow drive in but we were pleasantly surprised it took us only a bit under 90 minutes to drive in. We arrived and set up camp in a shady spot amongst the trees and had an early night after playing some cards. Jack is hooked on poker, Linda says there must be some academic aspect to playing cards although I’m still trying to work out what – maybe maths.

Again it was really hot by 8 00 am so we decided to get up early and hike into a couple of the walks in the coolest part of the day. We did the Mini Palms Gorge which was an easy walk to a gorge filled with mini palms – funny about that!



We then walked into Echidna Chasm, a long narrow chasm with striking colours depending on where the sun is at. Livistona palms grow on the cliff walls which are as high as 200metres.



The afternoon was spent lazing around camp. I came up with the ingenious idea of filling buckets of water and using the 12volt shower to cool us off – it did the job and was good fun. We went up to the Kungkalahayi Lookout just before sunset to watch the domes of the Bungle Bungles change colour (along with most of the campers at the campsite).

Next morning it was off for an early walk into Cathedral Gorge which took us past the famous striped sandstone beehives of the Bungle Bungles, dried up waterfalls that only run in the wet season and into the huge amphitheatre after which the gorge is named. On the way to cathedral Gorge we booked a 30 minute helicopter flight over the Bungle Bungles.



So after the gorge walk it was off to the helipad for the chopper ride over the Bungle Bungles. It was an awesome flight with great views, there certainly are a myriad of gorges that have not been opened to explore yet and it was great to see them from the air. The flight gave us a better appreciation of the extent of the Bungle Bungles – it is a huge system covering over 300,000 hectares.



The afternoon was spent the same as the day before cooling off at camp and doing some maintenance on the car and camper trailer before we leave the Bungle Bungles for the drive back to Kununurra tomorrow.

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