2009 Trip - Well 5 to Durba Springs

Bucky had managed to make contact with our other travelling companion, Chris Baillie who was waiting for us at Well 6. As we made our way towards Well 6 we passed through stands of grass trees, beautiful white gums dotted the landscape amongst the Spinifex and wild flowers and the track was good.

Pierre Springs, Well 6 is set amongst large , white trunked river gums. It’s shaded and a real oasis in the desert. The well here has been completely restored and is a credit to the Geraldton 4x4 Club.

We set up camp, after meeting Chris, had lunch, did some washing then Ray and I decided to climb the nearby hill. We weren’t sure if it was Ingebong Hill but we thought the views would be great . That took an hour or so and was worth the effort since the views were spectacular but on proper reading of the map we realised that it wasn’t Ingebong Hill after all.

The next morning we set off and climbed the “real” Ingebong Hill to take in some more views of the surrounding country, then it was on our way up the Canning.
The first stop was at Well 7 for smoko then onwards with the track being narrow and closely surrounded by scrubby trees.
There were some wash out sections as the track wound its way through to Well 8 and then Well 9 which is known as Weld Springs. It is here that Forrest made his “fort” as protection against the aborigines who were attacking his men. Since the Canning here is still in cattle station country there were yards and a windmill with small groups of cattle sitting around in the shade.

We continued on to find a shadier spot for our lunch and then back on the track to Well 10. The track continued to wind its way around slowly through dense scrub and we found a clearing to have lunch before continuing on to Well 10 which was known as “Lucky Well” because it meant that the drovers had reached the cattle stations and the end of the sand dune country.

The sand dune country begins from here on and we soon encountered a couple as we headed northwards. We reached Well 11 known as Windich Springs a desolate place on greyish soil amongst scrubby bushes . This was as far as the drays would come before their gear would be packed on camels to be taken further north leaving the drays behind. It looked and felt bleak. From Well 11 onwards the dunes increased in size and regularity and they had roller coaster bumps and some had run ups which we found we didn’t need with our low tyre pressures.

We were now on the edges of a few salt lakes and before long we were skirting around the side of Lake Aerodrome enjoying the late afternoon light on the surface and surrounds.
At last we left the lake and crossed a dune at the far side to burst back out into the desert sand. There’s a small camp ground just as you cross this dune which would make a nice camp for one or two but we were three so on we went to Well 12.
Just a short distance, about 500 meters from Well 12 there is another nice area for a larger group to camp which is set under a grove of Desert Oak. There were people set up there already so we went on to the Well and camped nearby. Well 12 has been restored and we were able to replenish our supplies.
Another lovely desert sunset and we turned our lights off after we’d eaten our meal so that we could watch the panorama of stars spread out in the night sky above.
The milky way stood out clearly and the stars were so bright.

The colours at sunrise are lovely too, beginning with the softest lightening of the dark then the horizon becoming blue/purple with tones of mauve and pink appearing. Gradually the colours become warmer as they slowly change to the orange glow of sunrise. The moon hangs pale in the morning light and another day begins.

After a quick shower/wash and breakfast we got away by 8am. Ray let the tyres down a bit more and we set out on the track. The first stop was at Well 13 which is set off the track amongst some low trees. From there it was on to Well 14 which is overgrown and in disrepair as are sadly, most of the wells. We stopped for smoko at a look out which had an easy drive up to just below the crest. Amazingly enough we had phone reception here .So far the track continued to be the usual mix of stones, sand, corrugations and dunes. Well 15 is a restored well and we stopped to have a look, replenish the water and then it was onwards to Well 16 for lunch. This is such great country. Each dune is followed by a valley, lots of wild flowers and vibrant colours. We were last in line for this section and Chris had just gone over a dune in front of us when a big camel slowly moved out of the surrounding scrub and slowly crossed the road in front of us. It didn’t look right or left…just plodded on across. It looked so funny.

We reached the Calvert Range turn off after travelling through a scrubby, washed out section and down off a small plateau. The views towards Durba Hills were magnificent. We could see them rolling away in front of us, their rock faces burnt dark black red. We were out into open country at the turn but quickly found ourselves back amongst the dunes again.
This drive into the Calvert Range was a roller coaster of dunes and magnificent valleys. White gums dotted amongst honey grevillea, wild flowers in carpets on the ground and the Spinifex and red sand completing the picture once more. After crossing each dune the track wound its way through these valleys and at times we couldn‘t see where the next crossing would be. The further in on the track, the bigger the dunes got until finally we got stopped in our first attempt at a very large dune. We reversed down, checked our tyre pressures to find that they’d risen during the day with the heat. Once that was corrected it was up and over the dune with no further problems for the rest of the way into the Calvert Range. The run ups on some of these dunes are incredible. Some stretch far enough for a 707 jet to take off from. We found that we didn’t need them and just kept our tyre pressures down to around 15psi, chose the appropriate gears and used the proper track. It was just on dusk when we pulled into the Calvert Range campground to find it very full.
Chris and I wandered around taking photo’s as the setting sun lit up the rock faces with a gorgeous red glow. Time for tea, a chat and then bed.



After a slow pack we walked through the gorge near the campground for about an hour looking at the rock paintings and petroglyphs. I can understand why this is a sacred site and why some groups spend days exploring all the different gorges and caves.

We did the loop road around the ranges and then set off back over the dunes to the Canning. Not far from Cannings Cairn we stopped under some shady trees for lunch then Chris, Ray and myself went on ahead to climb to the cairn at the top. The climb was quite steep and shaley but the view from the top was magnificent.

We could see the Durba Hills spread out before us and tried to pick out other features such as Diebel Hills. Back at the base Bucky said he’d been talking to a group coming in to the Canning from the west and we worked out that they were on the Puntawarri Track. Ah…another track to think about and that made Ray go pale!! As we neared Durba Springs we began to collect firewood and also began to hear on our radio reports from others further north about the difficulties they were having with dunes. We thought that Durba Springs would be as busy as the Calvert Ranges and so we were very pleased to find only a couple of other groups camped there. We picked out a nice spot, set up and then cleaned out the trailer because one of our water container lids had come loose and slopped water through out.

Durba Springs camp is lovely, set in a gorge of rich, red rocks, full of large, shady white gums and at the far end and around the western side there is the water, though not much at the moment. We made a fire in the provided space and cooked our steak for tea. We sat around talking then I made a damper which we cooked in the camp oven and everyone had a slice with margarine, honey or jam. I was so pleased that it turned out well, being my first attempt in front of others!!

Waking each morning to a beautiful sunrise and the sound of the birds is such a joy.. After breakfast Ray, Chris and I took off to climb to the top of the gorge and see what we could find.
We followed the edge of the rocks for a while then made our way down into the gorge itself to pools brimful of reflections from the rock walls and trees surrounding them. By the time we got back to camp it was time for lunch and a lazy day sitting around reading and chatting. Chris had brought his bicycle with him and for “relaxation” he chose to don full bike riding gear and go for a “short” ride back as far as Canning’s Cairn. Nice to be young and fit!! Bucky had brought some venison with him for just such a day as this and he was busy cooking us up a feast. We all put whatever vegetables we had into another camp oven and set them simmering away. What a meal that was!!

Next: Durba Springs to Kunawarritji

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