FRIENDLY PEOPLE IN KYGYZSTAN

The Central Asia chapter continues with us entering Kyrgyzstan near the north-east corner of the country, close to China. Leaving Kazakhstan and entering Kyrgyzstan is the most straight forward border crossing so far for us, only one written form and one signature, what a dream. All said and done in about an hour and “welcome to Kyrgyzstan” are the words from the helpful Customs Office, who actually fills out our declaration forms for us, just asking for a small monetary “gift” in return for his services. Our itinerary is to travel diagonally across the country, on the way seeing Issyk-Kul a magnificent lake, the capital Bishkek, and through towering mountains to Osh in the south.



Kyrgyzstan (KGZ) is a developing country in Central Asia, its economy was in difficulties when the Soviet Union dissolved in the early 1990’s. The KGZ economy is primarily based on agriculture, herding goats, sheep and cattle. In recent years there has been a determined effort by the Kyrgyz Government to attract foreign tourists; a treat is in store for those taking the plunge with a visit to this wonderful country. The main roads are excellent and the scenery stunning, with snow capped mountains, rivers and lakes. Most of all we are impressed by the friendly nature of the local people in which we come in contact. Given the slightest opportunity they ask us into their homes for tea or a meal. We receive friendly waves from hundreds of people as we pass along the roadways and wide smiles from children in the villages.





Just after we enter KGZ we take a side road and have lunch by a small creek. Close-by two local ladies wash some long things in the creek; Ann and Bronwyn go to speak with the ladies to find out what they are doing. The “long things” turn out to be sheep intestines, for the ladies to stuff with meat and make sausages. Ann and Bron receive an invitation for the four of us to visit their home for morning tea. Their home is a converted wagon on wheels; their summer camp. Morning tea turns out to be a full lunch spread, what a treat for us. The generosity of these local herders is beyond our belief; we have some limited conversation with the husband and daughter over lunch but neither we nor they speak the other’s language, but manage to make some sense of the questions and answers. Before leaving we respond with some small gifts for the family and some popular photo prints of the family, from our Canon Selphy photo printer. The printer has had frequent use while we have been away.



The first city we come to in Kyrgystan is the leafy friendly Karakol. It is raining and we decide to find accommodation. The volunteers at a tourist information centre inform us that the hotels are full however they recommend the Aisha Guest House Ph +996(3922)70474. It is clean, very warm and we are truly treated like members of the family. Together with the other guests, four people from France who are travelling together, we are treated to lovingly prepared dinner and breakfast all served around a big dining room table. The guest house is extremely good value, although difficult to find, ask at the tourist information centre.




A highlight for visitors to eastern KGZ is Lake Issyk-Kul. The lake lies between two mountain ranges, one the north and the south, the lake running about 170 km east west and about 80 km wide. The mountains on either side are snow capped and very impressive, standing on the lake southern shore the water disappears to the horizon as do the mountains flanking the shores. For our journey around the lake we choose the less developed southern shore. There are rivers rushing from the mountains to the lake and canyons to explore. In the beautiful Dzuuku Valley we find a hot spring in which to relax, in another valley we find meadows of wildflowers. On the shores of Issyk-Kul we meet a youth collecting wild berries, later Ann makes a delicious jam from the bucket of berries he gave her.




We mostly find night campsites beside the lake or rivers. For this trip since South Korea we camp about 75% of nights and stay in accommodation about 25%, of the camp nights we stay beside a river or lake on most nights. One evening close to Issyk-Kul we turn into a grazing paddock, with a river, and ask a passerby if this is “okay” for us to stay the night, he says yes, so we set up camp. After a short time Tabildi, as we know him later, returns in his car and invites us to stay the night in his home in the adjoining village. His invitation includes advice that his wife, Kulsun, actually speaks English, we still prefer not to impose, so say we will still camp thanks anyway. Later again that evening he returns, this time with Kulsun, previously a teacher in English language at the local university. She also presses us to stay the night with them. In the end we accept an invitation to go for breakfast the following day. Well the breakfast was a spread and a half. The local School Director was invited to meet us also. To top the morning off, our hosts presented Chris and Alastair with local Kyrgyz traditional felt hats (ak kalpak).

This generous family lives at Tonski village and welcomes visitors to stay if passing through the area. Kulsun can be contacted in the local area by phone 722 467 when near Lake Issyk-Kul KGZ.



With a break of two days in Bishkek, Essie’s radiator leak is fixed at Evi Auto Centre and Troopy’s two slow leaking tyres are fixed. After restocking food supplies from the bazaar, we head south over mountain ranges that take us to over two passes in excess of 3,000m. We follow a long valley that has five hydro-electric dams, the road clings to the side of mountains with precipitous drops to the impounded waters of the dams. Our journey continues south through local villages towards Osh, where we stock up again on food, fuel and cooking gas, we are about to head for very remote high country, the Pamir Mountains in eastern Tajikistan, called the roof of the world by some.



Costs of travel and food for us in KGZ are significantly less than Kazakhstan. Diesel is still quite inexpensive at about 60 AUS cents per litre. Lunch at a café can cost about $A3.50 per person consisting of main course and tea. Bread is usually about 50 AUS cents a loaf and nan bread about 30 AUS cents for a round loaf.

Unfortunately better roads in KGZ mean faster speeds by the local drivers, consequently many more car accidents. Better roads don’t always mean better travel it seems.

The next chapter in our journey will take us through Tajikistan, until then, cheers from us all.

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