The Spectacular Karlamilyi National Park (Rudall River) - Some history, highlights and places.

Thursday, Feb 24, 2011 at 00:00

Mick O

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At 1,283,706 hectares (12837 square km), the Karlamilyi (previousely Rudall River) National Park is the largest national park in Western Australia and one of the largest in the world. It is more than two-and-a-half times a large as the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona. As well as being so vast, it is also one of the most remote places in the world.


The park sits on the boundary between the Great Sandy and Little Sandy Deserts and includes the watershed of the Rudall River. Salt lakes, which are part of a palaeodrainage system, are characteristic of these desert regions. Lakes Dora, Blanche, Winifred, George and Auld form a U-shaped group east of Rudall River, with only Lakes Dora and Blanche lying inside the park boundary. Lake Dora is 198 metres above sea level and it is only for a short time after particularly heavy rains that there is any appreciable quantity of surface water in this or any of the other lakes.


Sand dunes cover much of the desert areas in the eastern and south-western parts of the park. They form parallel ridges of between 20-40 metres high, trending mainly south-east to north-west, lying between 200 metres and six kilometres apart and often extending for more than 40 kilometres in length. The central rocky area, between the two desert areas, is flatter and it is here where the main tracks cross the park: from Telfer in the north to the Talawana Track in the south, and westwards from the Rudall River crossing to Hanging Rock, on the western boundary of the park.


The Rudall River was named by Frank Hann after the surveyor and explorer William Frederick Rudall (pronounced Roo-dal, with stress on the second syllable). To the Aboriginal people who live in this remote desert region, it is called Karlamilyi. The first European explorations of the Rudall River area itself came in 1896-97, when surveyor William Frederick Rudall led a party of men in search of George Jones and Charles Wells, the missing men from the Calvert Expedition. Rudall made three trips through the present park area, during which he named several of its features -- including Mt Connaughton, after one of the members of the search party, and Hanging Rock-or recorded their Aboriginal names. At that time, Rudall noted that there was good gold-bearing land, but that the remoteness and sheer inhospitality of the area made it uneconomical to investigate further. He crossed the river several times and in his account of the search, written a few years later, he commented that:


"The Rudall River is a series of deep gulches 8-10 feet between banks and altogether is about 200 yards wide. There must be large quantities of water run down it in a rainy season."

Someone else who was in the area at about the same time was Frank H Hann. Hann was a versatile and wide-ranging prospector, surveyor and explorer who was investigating the area for stock grazing. Hann, then about 60 years old, entered the Broadhurst Range, just north of the park, on 31 May, 1897. He continued south to the river, then north-east to Lake Misery (later renamed Lake Dora by Rudall after his fiancee Dora Miller). He tried his hand prospecting for gold near Mt Eva before heading south to the McKay Range and then westwards. As he approached the area near Hanging Rock, and was running short of water, he saw smoke in the distance. He followed the smoke and 'bumped into' Rudall and his search party in a place later named Meeting Gorge. Rudall described him as, "a hardy old bushman".


The Karlamilyi National Park is a beautiful and haunting place, rich in history and culture. This ancient land is one of only a few areas in Australia that remain rarely visited. Its secrets are known only to all a few hardy travellers, scientists, researchers and explorers, and of course, the traditional Aboriginal groups, who have lived there for tens of thousands of years.












From my past Four trips into this amazing area I have both created, or updated exisiting exploroz places. They refer mainly to the central, western and northwestern areas of the park and are listed here for easy referral:

Desert Queen Baths
Tjarra Pool
Watrara Pool
Curran Curran Water Hole
Hanging Rock
Tchukardine Pool
Bocrabee Hill
Turtle Pool
Darlsen Pinnacle
Camel Valley
Southern Handpump
Northern Water Pump
Middle Pool - Broadhurst Ranges
Circular Cliffs Pool
Explosion Pool
Camel Rock - WA
Mount Eva WA
Graphite Valley Track
Yandagooge Gap
Pyramid Point

Some of these places are not marked on maps of the area (Hema, Natmap or Westprint) or in the Exploroz Trek Notes for the park. Others have no vehicle access to them at this point in time. I have included google earth images in many to give an overall view of their locations and included access instructions on others.



Cheers. Mick



(History words above drawn from various sources on the web, Photos mine - Updated 22 Dec 10)



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BlogID: 751 Comments: 7 Views: 32450 Attachments: 1
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Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 18, 2008 at 08:05

N/A commented:

Hi Mick, sounds like you guys are having a ball also. We didnt quite have enough time to get out to the rudall river ourselves. Take care and have fun on the rest of your journey.unc
Comment 1 of 7
Submitted: Monday, Nov 30, 2009 at 21:47

Member - Fred B (ex-NT) commented:

Gooday Mick. Thanks for the updates. I'll be leaving Darwin 21st June 2010 to see some of the awsome places in Rudall River NP for myself. Thanks for all your hard work (you really hated doing it though..... didn't you?... lol.).
regards,
Fred B (ex-NT)
VKS 737: Mobile/Selcall 1334
HFOz: HFOZ/Selcall 1334
Comment 2 of 7
Submitted:Tuesday, Dec 01, 2009 at 05:44

Mick O replied:

Keep your fingers crossed for a good wet season in the Pilbara Fred. It's getting very dry out there. Would be great to seea fresh flsuh of water through the place. Hope to be there around the same time.

Cheers. Mick
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Submitted: Wednesday, Dec 22, 2010 at 21:34

Member - Michael J (SA) commented:

A simply stunning place Mick O.

It would have to be one of my favourite spots, and your description is commendable.

One day I will be back. Darlsen has a magic all of its own, and needs time to explore.

I learn history from you, my friend, and it makes all the more reason to return,

Not necessarily to the same places that are available to the general public, but to those
areas that need just that little bit more planning and are ‘a tad more remote’

Happy ‘Xmas to you and the Queen.

MJ
The magnificent Hanging Rock
Comment 3 of 7
Submitted:Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 21:40

Mick O replied:

Cheers MJ. Let's hope for a decent expedition in the not to distant future. M & V
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Submitted: Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 06:59

Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) commented:

Hi Mick
Another Great Read
It looks a great location with unreal scenery.

Seasons Greetings

Stephen
Roxby Downs Special
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Comment 4 of 7
Submitted:Friday, Dec 24, 2010 at 20:25

Mick O replied:

You would love it Stephen. Definitely appeal to your sense of adventure. A safe and happy festive season to you and yours. Mick
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Submitted: Thursday, Dec 23, 2010 at 08:08

Member - Alan K (QLD) commented:

Mick, you have again captured the majesty of that special place. I have been very fortunate to have visited it twice and seen places no-one else has with you. Be great to visit when there is actually water around, but getting to some of the places would be difficult.

Alan K
Comment 5 of 7
Submitted: Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 11:27

Member - Duncan W (WA) commented:

Thanks again Mick for sharing your experiences and knowledge with us all. It is very obvious that you have a strong affinity with the region.

Cheers

Dunc.
Dunc
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Comment 6 of 7
Submitted:Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 21:39

Mick O replied:

Love the place Duncs. Cheers Mick
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Submitted: Friday, Mar 30, 2012 at 20:36

Member - Phil 'n Jill (WA) commented:

Mick - your blogs are an inspiration. The information and presentation is really valuable for anyone planning a visit to any area you have passed through.

I have found your Pilbara jottings particularly useful for this year's excursion, and also have the Rudall listed on my 'bucket list'.

Thanks - Phil
Comment 7 of 7
Submitted:Saturday, Mar 31, 2012 at 16:43

Mick O replied:

Thanks for the kind words Phil and glad that my jottings are useful. That's what I've always intended them to be so I'm very happy to hear your comments. Anyone that visits Rudall comes away touched by the place. I hope you make it there soon. I hope to get back there this year myself. Safe travels.

Mick
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