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Simpson Desert

Difficulty: Trek rating 4 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 4 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 4 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 4 of 5 - Click for details   Suitable for: 4WD Bike 
The Simpson Desert can be crossed via the French Line, WAA line or Rig Road. This trek provides a route using a combination of all 3 routes.
StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesBirdsville
FinishDalhousie Springs
Distance567.35 kmMinimum Days3
Average Speed34.7 km/hrDriving Time16 hours 20 mins
Article By: ExplorOz Team   Updated: 11 Nov 2009

 Description

The Simpson Desert is the common name given to the area between Birdsville in the South West Corner of Queensland to Dalhousie Springs in the far north of South Australia near the Northern Territory border and actually lies across the corners of 3 States - South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. The route we describe on this page is called the Combined Route - it is a customised a trek route for those that wish to see as much as possible of the area in the one trip, taking in a little of each track.

There are 3 main tracks across the Simpson Desert. Follow these links for specific trek notes if not doing the Combined Route: Simpson Desert French Line, Simpson Desert Rig Road and Simpson Desert WAA Line.

Using The Combined Route, you will travel 567km. Following our notes you will initially traverse the French Line with diversions onto the Rig, Colson, WAA, AAK and then pick up the French Line again to Poepells Corner and onto the QAA Line into Birdsville. The Simpson Desert can be crossed from West - East or East - West, depending on your preference. Our notes show both driving directions. Tracks are defined only by the ruts and wheel marks in the sand - there is no grading or grooming of the track at any point of the trek.

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Simpson Desert Help

From: Birdsville
To: Dalhousie Springs

Distance: 567.35 km
Direction: 261 °
Average Speed: 34.7 km/hr
Travel Time: 16 hours 20 mins

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 Permits

You will need a Desert Parks Pass which is a permit that covers all access and camping. It is advisable to arrange this permit well in advance as it contains specific and comprehensive travel planning information, including a set of maps and booklets. Desert Park Passes can NOT be forward dated. This means, they have to be dated with the date they are purchased. ExplorOz are agents for the sale of the Desert Parks Pass. Desert Parks Pass - see Related Shop Items below.

 Things to See & Do

Big Red - QLD   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Point of Interest 
Big Red, also known by its aboriginal name as Nappamerri, is a huge sand dune in the Simpson Desert that stands approximately 90 metres above sea level and 35 metres above the plain, although height may vary due to winds and dunal movement.
Purnie Bore - SA   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Free
Purnie Bore was sunk by teams during the oil exploration years of the Simpson Desert. As the years went by, leaks in the bore caused a substantial amount of hot water to surface and develop into a sizeable lake. Conservationists determined that salty water from an ever increasing water body has the potential to change the native habitat.
Birdsville - QLD   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Populated Place Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Airstrip Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services
Birdsville is a small town located in Western Queensland, Australia. The town is located 1590 kilometres west of the state capital, Brisbane, and 720 kilometres south of the city of Mount Isa. Birdsville is situated on the edge of the Simpson Desert, and the climate is very arid. Birdsville is located in the Diamantina Shire, which has a population of 326 persons (Census 2001).
Dalhousie Springs - SA   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Rubbish Bin,Tip Toilet Camp Free
These hot, fresh water springs are very unique and are an outlet from the Great Artesian Basin. It is the largest known springs and the main spring offers a nice soothing swim for travellers after a hard day’s drive. Since the late 1990s, new camping facilities have provided a nice area to camp and relax within the Witjira National Park.
Poeppel Corner - SA   
Junction,Intersection,Turn Off Point of Interest
Adjacent Lake Poeppel. Where NT, SA and Qld border intersect. Has interesting interpretive signs (aboriginal history etc).
Spinifex Dune, QAA Line - QLD   
Point of Interest 
Spinifex, also known as Triodia Basedowii is a perennial grass that is well conditioned to arid environments. This grass species occurs predominantly in the north of the park, and in regard to the QAA Line – occurs in the few dunes around this particular location.
Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line - QLD   
Point of Interest 
Georgina Gidgee, also known as Acacia Georginae is the only tree of any size that occurs in the park’s dune system. This tree species grows throughout the Georgina Basin – hence it’s name Georgina Gidgee. The tree contains the chemicals sodium fluro-acetate which is the active constituent in the poison 1080 – a poison commonly used to control feral animals.
Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line - QLD   
Point of Interest 
The narrow-leaved hopbush also known as Dodonaea attenuata is a very common shrub that can be found in the dunefields. It has slightly sticky, glossy leaves which attract ants and the abundance of this shrub species is said to be caused by rabbits overgrazing on other plants. It is an opportunistic species and is common in disturbed environments.
Approdinna Attora Knolls - SA   
Mountain,Peak,Hill 
These fragile gypsum outcrops are of great Aboriginal and scientific importance. They were once the highest dune crests in this area. The first European to visit the Knolls was David Lindsay on January 11th 1886. They are rare gypsum outcrops and are fragile by nature as well as being considered of great scientific significance. They also provide the highest vantage point in the area.
Lone Gum Tree - SA   
Historic and Landmark Trees Camp Free Point of Interest
No description entered. Enter description or photos.
Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line - QLD   
Point of Interest 
Gypsum crystals are caused by saline ground water evaporating under the hot desert sun. This crust, which is known as Gypcrete, forms and often occurs where the lower parts of the desert basins lie adjacent to dried salt lakes. Since high rainfall would dissolve any sulphates, Gypcrete can only develop in arid conditions.

 Preparation

Your vehicle will need to be extensively prepared for remote area travel, with all fuel, water, food and vehicle repair equipment and spare parts.

All travellers should read the 4WDriving Topic for related articles and checklists for vehicle setup and driver awareness.

We advise that you refer to the latest information and advice about outback communications in the Communications Topic. All drivers should set their UHF radios to scan all stations, but take note that Channel 10 is the offical channel for the Simspon Desert. Anywhere in the Diamantina Shire (comprising the towns of Birdsville, Betoota and Bedourie) you must not used UHF Ch 8 and 38 as these are to be reserved for emergency calls only - these channels are monitored by the Clinics, Police and station operators and must remain clear.

For any dune driving you should fly a dune flag from the front of your vehicle to avoid head on collisions on dune tops. Additionally, the lead vehicle in any direction should periodically make calls on Channel 10 from the top of large dunes on the UHF radio to advise oncoming traffic of your position.

You will also need a Desert Parks Pass - a permit that covers all access and camping. It is advisable to arrange this permit well in advance as it contains specific and comprehensive travel planning information, including a set of maps and booklets. Desert Park Passes can NOT be forward dated. This means, they have to be dated with the date they are purchased. ExplorOz are agents for the sale of the Desert Parks Pass.

Please take particular note that the Desert Parks Department strongly disapprove of trailers being towed across the Simpson Desert. Travellers are advised to drop off trailers and conduct a loop trip or a double-crossing to retrieve the trailer later.

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Fuel SymbolBirdsville Diesel4cyl 90 litres * ULP4cyl 115 litres * LPG4cyl 113 litres
6cyl 96 litres *6cyl 127 litres *6cyl 100 litres
8cyl 88 litres *8cyl 94 litres
Usage is averaged from TrekFuel (* specific to trek) submissions and calculated based on trek distance.

Best Time To Visit

Generally, the best travelling is in the middle of winter when the weather will be cool to mild during the day but it can be very cold (zero) at night.

Closest Climatic Station

Oodnadatta Airport
Distance from Trek Mid Point 249.73km SW
 JanFebMarAprMayJun JulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean Max. °C 37.736.633.728.5 23.219.919.522.0 26.530.233.836.4
Mean Min. °C 22.822.319.214.4 9.86.65.87.4 11.415.018.521.2
Mean Rain mm 24.632.212.311.2 12.812.610.57.8 9.314.111.316.5
    Best time to travel      Ok time to travel      Travel NOT recommended

Services & Supplies

The following locations have various services and supplies: Birdsville
There are supplies at Oodnadatta and Mt Dare but these locations are not on this route.

 Camp Sites & Accommodation

Purnie Bore - SA   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Free
Purnie Bore was sunk by teams during the oil exploration years of the Simpson Desert. As the years went by, leaks in the bore caused a substantial amount of hot water to surface and develop into a sizeable lake. Conservationists determined that salty water from an ever increasing water body has the potential to change the native habitat.
Birdsville - QLD   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Populated Place Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Airstrip Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services
Birdsville is a small town located in Western Queensland, Australia. The town is located 1590 kilometres west of the state capital, Brisbane, and 720 kilometres south of the city of Mount Isa. Birdsville is situated on the edge of the Simpson Desert, and the climate is very arid. Birdsville is located in the Diamantina Shire, which has a population of 326 persons (Census 2001).
Dalhousie Springs - SA   RatingRatingRatingRatingRating
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Rubbish Bin,Tip Toilet Camp Free
These hot, fresh water springs are very unique and are an outlet from the Great Artesian Basin. It is the largest known springs and the main spring offers a nice soothing swim for travellers after a hard day’s drive. Since the late 1990s, new camping facilities have provided a nice area to camp and relax within the Witjira National Park.
Lone Gum Tree - SA   
Historic and Landmark Trees Camp Free Point of Interest
No description entered. Enter description or photos.

 Environment

The Simpson Desert is the driest region of Australia and it is a dunal desert - a sea of parallel red sand ridges around 300-500 kilometres long covering a total area of 170,000 square kilometres.

The Approdinna Attora Knolls were once the highest peaks in the desert, but are now simply two gypsum outcrops. Note - camping is not permited within 1km of the "Knolls".

There are numerous salt pans and lakes throughout the Simpson Desert and these can flood after rains and close the desert to vehicle traffic. Camping around the salt lake areas near the Erabena Track Junction/French Line is most rewarding because the gidgee woodlands provide shade, shelter and soft ground for camping. There are increased wildlife viewing possibilities and you'll see great colours over the lakes at sunset.

Dalhouse Springs is an enormous natural spring-fed billabong at 38 degrees in natural surrounds. It is a carefully managed area that allows tourism, with minimal impact. Day visitors may enter from the western edge of the Desert, however a Day Pass from the Ranger will be required if camping. Note - those travellers doing a desert crossing will be covered for camping here within the full Desert Parks Pass.

Purnie Bore is not a natural watering hole, however a borehead here allows some water to be released from the artesian basin to sustain the wildlife that have come to rely on this area being an "unnatural watercourse" for many years whilst the borehead was allowed to overflow, creating a large lake. Friends of the Simpson Desert have created a bird hide from which to observe wildlife here and it's a popular camp site with good facilities.

Along the Rig Road stands a lone box eucalypt (colloquially known as the Lone Gum Tree). The box eucalypt is actually a member of the Coolibah family, which generally grows in the clay soils of flood prone areas yet is thriving in the middle of the Simpson Desert dunes, far removed from the nearest watercourse.

Rains normally occur in the heat of summer (late December through to early early March), although floods have been known to remain as late as July. Each season is different and you must plan your trip by keeping an eye on weather conditions and road reports .

The South Australian section of the Simpson Desert is divided into 3 protected areas, Simpson Desert Conservation Park, Simpson Desert Regional Reserve and Witjira National Park managed by the South Australian Desert Parks department of the SA Department of Environment and Heritage. A permit (the SA Desert Parks Pass) is required for all travel and camping.

Flora

The majority of the plant life you'll see is spinifex and upside down trees! Desert vegetation depends on seasonal conditions. In particular after rain the Simpson puts on an incredible show of desert wildflowers including billy buttons, poached egg daises, cunningham bird flower. Most are short lived, and during the peak travel season most people have missed their chance of seeing the desert in bloom.

Fauna

Of all the wildlife you'll encounter in the Simpson Desert, you'll become the most acquainted with the bush fly - annoying but thankfully gone after sundown. " Eagles" are the most commonly seen of the birds in the desert area although there are some 150 different species of birdlife including the Bustard, Wedge-tailed Eagle, Brown Falcon, budgerigar and Zebra Finch. Around the floodplains you could see Black Kites, Crested Pigeons and Galahs. Many creatures are nocturnal, so they are not easily seen or photographed. These include small marsupials but there are also some feral animals such as rabbits, foxes, camels and donkeys. Dingoes and camels are very common throughout the Simpson with the highest population of camels being in the southern parts so the Rig Road is the best place to spot them. If you get out of your vehicle during the day you might see some reptiles such the Perentie (goanna), Western Brown Snake, Woma Python and the Banded Skink.

 History

In the 1800's, the Simpson Desert was inhabited only by Aboriginal tribes. In 1845 explorer Charles Sturt was the first European to see the Simpson Desert but it was not named until the 1930s when another Australian explorer and geologist, Cecil Thomas Madigan, named it after Allen Simpson, the sponsor of his subsequent expedition.

An interesting natural feature in the Simpson Desert is The Approdinna Attora Knolls found along the AAK Track. The "Knolls" are two gypsum outcrops that were once the highest peaks in the desert. The first European to set eyes on The Knolls was the Australian explorer David Lindsay on 11 January 1886.

The first successful crossing of the desert occurred in 1936 by E A (Ted) Colson and the first motorised crossing, wasn't until 1962 by geologist Reg Sprigg and his family.

10 months later and using pegs laid out by Reg Sprigg, the oilworkers of CGG (Compagnie Generale de Geophysique) the prime contractor of French Petroleum, forged a track now known as the "French Line" with their Land Rovers, supply trucks and Blitzwagon semi-trailers in 1963. This path was built with the sole purpose of oil exploration.

However, oil discovered in the Simpson was of poor quality and therefore of no commercial value and after a clean up, the expedition was abandoned.

The Mokari airstrip was used extensively during the oil exploration days of the 1960s. Nearby is a monument to Jaroslav Pecanek who provided essential supplies for the isolated exploration crews. He is buried elsewhere (unknown) in the desert.

In 1973, Charles McCubbin and Warren Bonython, harnessed to a lightweight aluminium cart of their own design and armed with ski sticks, were the first to cross the Simpson Desert on foot! It took them 32 days.

Since then, the Simpson Desert has become a focal point for modern day explorers crossing on all forms of transport - including bicycles. The French Line and associated access tracks for the oil exploration activities still remain the only routes throughout the desert and it is unlikely that tar is ever possible (or wished) to be laid across this part of the country.

An interesting natural feature in the Simpson Desert is The Approdinna Attora Knolls found along the AAK Track. The "Knolls" are two gypsum outcrops that were once the highest peaks in the desert. The first European to set eyes on The Knolls was the Australian explorer David Lindsay on 11 January 1886. The atmosphere in this area is quite different to other parts of the desert, with a salt lake (Lake Tambyn) and a significant gidgee forest. Please note that camping is prohibited within 1km of the Knolls.
Poepells Corner is for many people a great highlight of their Simpson Desert adventure. Here you can see a surveyor's peg marks the spot of a tri-state junction - the borders of South Australia, Queensland and the Northern Territory. This is not the original peg (it is preserved in a museum). Not far away you might find some of Poeppel's original mile posts and historic markers.

 Driving Directions

Time
Direction
Distance
Birdsville to Big Red 43.51 km W 274° 1 hr 1 min
Big Red to Eyre Creek, QAA Line 18.72 km W 264° 28 min
Eyre Creek, QAA Line to QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access 0.12 km W 278°
QAA Line & Annandale Ruins Access to Simpson Desert NP East Boundary 16.42 km W 264° 27 min
Simpson Desert NP East Boundary to Spinifex Dune, QAA Line 2.11 km W 274° 3 min
Spinifex Dune, QAA Line to Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line 17.69 km W 274° 26 min
Georgina Gidgee Interdunes, QAA Line to Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line 34.86 km W 275° 55 min
Gypcrete Interdunes, QAA Line to Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line 10.14 km W 277° 22 min
Narrow-leafed Hop Bush, QAA Line to QAA Line & K1 Line 9.13 km W 275° 19 min
QAA Line & K1 Line to QAA Line & French Line Access 3.32 km W 276° 9 min
QAA Line & French Line Access to Poeppel Corner 18.71 km S 160° 29 min
Poeppel Corner to French Line & Thomas Track 26.02 km W 263° 1 hr 10 min
French Line & Thomas Track to French Line & Knolls Tk 14.08 km W 265° 38 min
French Line & Knolls Tk to Approdinna Attora Knolls 3.86 km S 166° 10 min
Approdinna Attora Knolls to WAA Line & Knolls Tk 30.61 km S 174° 1 hr 15 min
WAA Line & Knolls Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 29.88 km W 270° 1 hr 27 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 11.98 km S 165° 20 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to Lone Gum Tree 7.25 km S 168° 11 min
Lone Gum Tree to Rig Road & Erabena Tk 7.25 km N 348° 11 min
Rig Road & Erabena Tk to WAA Line & Erabena Tk 11.98 km N 345° 20 min
WAA Line & Erabena Tk to French Line & Erabena Tk 30.43 km N 343° 51 min
French Line & Erabena Tk to French Line & Colson Tk 52.37 km W 259° 2 hr 8 min
French Line & Colson Tk to Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access 9.78 km S 160° 18 min
Colson Track & Oolarinna Oil Well Access to WAA Line & Colson Track 10.21 km S 159° 18 min
WAA Line & Colson Track to WAA Line & Rig Road 2.08 km W 270° 3 min
WAA Line & Rig Road to Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road 0.24 km W 250° 3 min
Georges Corner, WAA Line & Rig Road to WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access 27.51 km W 271° 46 min
WAA Line & Glen Joyce Oil Well Access to Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip 8.15 km W 270° 12 min
Mokari Oil Well & Airstrip to French Line & Rig Road 12.3 km NW 329° 13 min
French Line & Rig Road to Purnie Bore 27.68 km W 258° 35 min
Purnie Bore to Freeth Junction 18.66 km W 250° 21 min
Freeth Junction to Lookout on Rig Rd 30.94 km W 253° 32 min
Lookout on Rig Rd to Dalhousie Springs 19.35 km W 266° 21 min
Birdsville to Dalhousie Springs 567.35 km     16 hr 20 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.

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ExplorOz Trek Notes are detailed, factual reviews of destinations in Australia to which you can plan a self-drive camping trip. [Feature Story]
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What Others have Said

Latest 5 of 42 - View all in Forum

DIO : 11 Nov 09 16:27
The Simpson Desert will be closed again during summer to ensure the ...
Member - Prickle (SA) : 8 Nov 09 16:58
Have done a search and got no result. We hope to do the Simpson Dese...
seachanger : 6 Nov 09 10:17
We are researching a crossing from east to west in July/August 2010....
Member - Brian R (VIC) : 3 Nov 09 08:47
Just completed an east to west crossing of Simpson Desert via WAA li...
Member - Mfewster(SA) : 7 Oct 09 12:04
I have just returned from a Simpson Desert crossing as part of the S...

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