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Shark Bay and Steep Point

This arid coastal area has extraordinary appeal.The World Heritage listed Shark Bay area is home to more than a few unique natural wonders including living stromatolites, dugongs and dolphins. Steep Point is Australia's most westerly point (4WD only)

This trek is located in the WA Coast region.

Start Finish Distance Min Days Rating
Carnarvon Kalbarri 1041.2 2 Trek rating 3 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 3 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 3 of 5 - Click for details
» Description
» Preparation
    Fuel Information, Best Time to Visit
    Permits, Supplies/Facilities

» Things to See & Do
» Driving Notes
» Waypoints
» Related Shop Items
 
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Researched By ExplorOz - Michelle Jacka   Latest Update 24 Oct 2005

 Description


Mud Map

This arid coastal area has extraordinary appeal. The sand country dominates the bitumen highway section linking Carnarvon with the turn-off to Shark Bay. The World Heritage listed Shark Bay area is home to more than a few unique natural wonders: living stromatolites (the earliest forms of life dating back 3.5 billions years); Shell Beach (60km of tiny shells up to 10m deep); Ospreys (sea-eagles), green turtles, dugongs, wild goats and of course the famous Monkey Mia dolphins.

Dolphins at Monkey Mia


Denham and Monkey Mia

The Shark Bay turnoff is 194km south from Carnarvon along the bitumen North West Coastal Highway. This stretch of highway is very bare with no trees and only a few tuffs of scrub. It is hard to imagine that you are skirting the shores of the Indian Ocean. There is a bush camp at Glandstone, 6km off the highway. This spot is south of Wooramel Roadhouse and 54km north of the Overlander Roadhouse.

28.3km from the highway on the Denham-Hamlin Rd you will come to the historic telegraph station and Hamelin Pool Marine Nature Reserve where you can view the ancient stromatolites. It is another 12.2km to the turnoff on the left to Useless Loop, where you would turn if going to Steep Point (317.5km return). And 86.3km further on is Denham, Australia's most westerly town. Traditionally a pearling and fishing town, it is now the gateway to the famous bottlenose dolphins at nearby Monkey Mia (25.5km). There are a couple of free camps around the Denham area although you need to contact the Denham council for permission. These are Whalebone Bay, Fowlers Camp and Eagle Bluff, which you'll pass on your left on the way into Denham.

The Monkey Mia Resort is right on the beach where the bottle-nose dolphins come in to the beach for a hand feed. The most popular time to view the dolphins is from 7am - 9am, although they often come in a few times a day and occasionally they don't come at all. Although they seem to enjoy the interaction with people they are not reliant on the food given to them so just come when they feel like it. The dolphins don't usually come in after 1pm but you can spend a whole day at the dolphin information centre watching videos and talking to the researchers permanently based there.

Hamlin Pool


Francis Peron National Park

North of Denham lies our favourite National Park - Francois Peron. The natural features include a dramatic red-cliff coastline, white beaches, dense coastal scrub, colourful wildflowers in season and gypsum salt pans called birridas (dangerous). The park is teeming with wildlife: kangaroos, euros, emus and reptiles. While underwater are whales, sharks, dolphins, dugongs, rays and rock lobsters. This spot seems to be highly under-rated. It is not a difficult drive and you can take your trailer. The tracks are relatively flat, a little sandy but the tracks are clear and well used. Heeding the warning signs about birridas is essential. The quicksand-like mires lie just below a thin crust of dry, cracked clay and will easily get you bogged! There are lots of them here but if you stay on the formed tracks that skirt them you will be safe.

There are quite a few bays and headlands to visit: Herald Bight (fishing, camping), South Gregories (camping, boating, fishing), North Gregories (camping, boating, fishing) and the magnificent Cape Peron and lighthouse. The views are spectacular - you can easily feel like the first people to ever have been there. Many sandy tracks led to steep cliff faces with magnificent views to the waters below. The Cape is a popular spot to sit and watch huge schools of rays, giant green turtles and dolphins. The campsites vary from rough and basic to well equipped with free gas BBQs and hotplates, clean toilets and easy access sites.

Steep Point

Leaving Denham along the Denham-Hamelin road you turn right at the intersection of Useless Loop Road after 86.5km to start the trip out to Steep Point. Make sure you have obtained your permit in ADVANCE and have read the Conditions of Entry. This is a new Access Protocol for Carrarang Station, which is part of a world heritage site.

The Access Protocol must be read and signed by you or a responsible person accompanying you, or your group. All persons names must accompany the access protocol although only one person to sign. Contact (08) 9948 3993 to obtain the permit.

There is a long list of conditions of entry which includes amongst other things, the fact that you must carry either an UHF (C.B. CH 16) radio or a satellite phone or an EPIRB, or C.D.M.A; a first aid kit; sufficient supplies of water (10 litres of water per person per day); food and fuel, vehicle spares, and a shovel. Campfires are allowed, but you will need to take your own firewood.

Vehicle's entry fee is $20.00 per trip, plus $2.00 G.S.T. Each Person is $5.00 per day for the length of your stay. Children under the age of 15 years are Free. A $100.00 Environmental levy is payable and will be refunded when you depart. If you are found to be not conforming to the Permit requirements, you will forfeit the $100.00 levy.

All visitors must stop at the Rangers Headquarters if arriving between 8am. & 8pm. Arrival's outside of these hours are asked to quietly pass the Rangers residence, select a camping area and the Ranger will visit you later in the day. At the time of writing the Ranger/Caretakers of the Steep Point area are Paul & Pam Dickenson.

The track has undergone significant repair over the last couple of years and is now mostly smooth all the way to the Useless Loop turnoff.

If you're looking for a free camp just outside Kalbarri there's a great spot beside the upper reaches of the Murchison River just off the highway under the Galena Bridge just north of the turn-off to Kalbarri. When you leave, instead of driving along the tar into Kalbarri take the dirt tracks out of Galena camping area across the highway. This leads to some historic relics of the old Yarranda mining communities. Further up the track you'll meet up with the main smelter of the Geraldine Mine where there is an information board and a walking track to the top. This track eventually meets up with the main road into Kalbarri well before the National Park areas.

The main road into Kalbarri passes the natural formations Ross Graham Lookout, Hawks Head Lookout, the Z-Bend, The Loop and Natures Window all within the National Park. Entry is free but there is no camping here and its dirt tracks to all lookouts where walking trails lead to the main features. It is very hot here in summer so take plenty of water, a hat and good walking shoes.

 Preparation

Fuel Supplies

Only in Denahm & at Nanga Bay Resort. No fuel on Edel Land after Denham-Hamlin Road and Useless Loop Rd intersection

Best time to visit

Do not take the trip out to Steep Point from November to April due to constant strong SW winds

Permits

New Access Protocol must be signed and $100 environmental levy paid (refunded on departure) to access Steep Point. Camping & entry fees are also payable on arrival at Ranger station at Steep Point Ph: (08) 9948 3993 for details. Amateur fishing licence required.

Supplies/Facilities

Carnarvon, Denham, Kalbarri

 Things to See & Do

Steep Point is Australia's most westerly point. Nearby is World Heritage listed Shark Bay where the Monkey Mia dolphins can be observed in the wild daily. An amazing area with much to explore.

 Driving Notes

We need new driving notes for this trek note. See our How to Submit a Trek Note page.
Distance from start Description
Trip Meter (km)
0.0km Intersection of bitumen & gravel at Useless Loop Road (GPS 26° 28'50" S, 114° 4'20" E)
41.7km Tamala Homestead on left at intersection. Bush camping and track leading to beach. Call in to homestead for permission
45.7km Baba Bight on right with good views at southern end of Freycinet Reach. Continue straight ahead for Steep Point
73.3km Carrarong Homestead off to right at intersection of Carrarang Rd. Bush camping, contact homestead first Ph: (08) 9948 3997
78.3km Sign: No access to Useless Loop. Continue onto New Road. You might need to engage 4WD here.
88.5km Y-junction and signpost: Steep Point/False Entrance. Veer left. Cliffs and big blowholes seen here.
117.1km T-intersection. (GPS 26° 23'5" S, 113° 18'50" E). (False Entrance and Crayfish Bay to left)
131.1km Intersection. Signpost: Steep Point. Turn left. You may need to reduce tyre pressures here.
133.3km Y-junction. Veer right
135.5km Intersection. Go straight ahead
138.6km Y-junction. Veer right
140.1km Intersection. Go straight ahead to Steep Point. (Thunder Bay and blowholes to left)
152.6km Ranger station and public telephone on right. Go straight ahead
155.0km Intersection. Go straight ahead. (Zuytdorp Cliffs to left)
155.7km T-intersection. (GPS 26° 9'55" S, 113° 11'20" E) Turn left. (Track on right continues to beach)
156.4km Y-junction. Signpost: Steep Point. Veer right
157.0km Intersection. Go straight ahead. (Track to right continues to beach)
158.0km T-intersection. Turn left. (Track to right continues to beach)
159.3km Intersection. Signpost: Steep Point. Lighthouse. Turn right
159.7km Y-junction. Veer left (rock fishing to right)
159.3km Steep Point. Return via same route
179.1km Thunder Bay Blowholes turn-off. Turn right
182.5km Y-junction. Veer left
184.1km Intersection. Turn left. (GPS 26° 17'20" S, 113° 16'40" E). (500m ahead is the cliff edge, Thunder Bay blowholes are 1km off to the right)
186.9km Y-junction. Veer left. (South end of Thunder Bay 1km to right)
189.4km Y-junction. Veer right
196.0km Crayfish Bay beach exit. Turn left
196.5km Intersection. Turn left. (False Entrance on right). Headland and blowholes straight ahead. (GPS 26° 23'5" S, 113° 18'50" E)
199.5km Intersection. It is now another 117.1km to return to the bitumen intersection with Denham-Hamelin Rd.
316.6km Denham-Hamelin Rd turn-off. Turn right
351.6km Intersection. Turn right onto North West Coastal Highway.
602.6km Kalbarri

If you're looking for a free camp just outside Kalbarri there's a great spot beside the upper reaches of the Murchison River just off the highway under the Galena Bridge just north of the turn-off to Kalbarri. When you leave, instead of driving along the tar into Kalbarri take the dirt tracks out of Galena camping area across the highway. This leads to some historic relics of the old Yarranda mining communities. Further up the track you'll meet up with the main smelter of the Geraldine Mine where there is an information board and a walking track to the top. This track eventually meets up with the main road into Kalbarri well before the National Park areas.

The main road into Kalbarri passes the natural formations Ross Graham Lookout, Hawks Head Lookout, the Z-Bend, The Loop and Natures Window all within the National Park. Entry is free but there is no camping here and its dirt tracks to all lookouts where walking trails lead to the main features. It is very hot here in summer so take plenty of water, a hat and good walking shoes.

 Waypoints

WaypointDescriptionTypeLongitude
WGS84
Latitude
WGS84
58054 Cape Peron North Populated Place, , Cape,Headland,Point, Point of Interest113.509780ºE25.506010ºS
58080 Monkey Mia Populated Place, , Caravan Park, Camp Fee, Point of Interest, Pub, Toilet113.718930ºE25.794990ºS
58126 Shell Beach Populated Place, , Beach, National Parks,Reserves, Point of Interest113.764540ºE26.212570ºS
58459 Hamelin Pool Telegraph Station Museum Populated Place, , Place Name, Point of Interest, Rubbish Bin,Tip, Toilet, Walk Track, Water Supply114.165010ºE26.399950ºS
58460 Hamelin Pool Populated Place, , Bay,Inlet,Cove, Beach, Point of Interest114.165600ºE26.400970ºS

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