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Carnarvon Range
Difficulty:
Suitable for:
The little known Carnarvon Range is nestled between the Canning Stock Route and Kumarina Road House. Originally discovered by John Forrest, this range rises majestically out of the spinifex plain; it has gorges, rockholes, waterfalls and aboriginal art. Few people visit the range and its environs; it’s a 4Wdriving paradise and a magical place to visit.
Start
Meekatharra
Finish
CSR Well 5
Distance
572.68 km
Minimum Days
4
Average Speed
40.8 km/hr
Driving Time
14 hr 2 min
Article By: Member - Phil Bianchi Updated: 18 Aug 2008
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Description
Environment
Interactive Route Map
History
Permits
Driving Directions
Things to See & Do
Trek Feedback
Preparation
Related Pages
Camp Sites & Accomodation
Recommended Reading
In this Trek Note
Description
Dogger Peter Muir, who worked in the area in the 1960s, discovered many rockholes and features in the area. He named them and in most cases inscribed his initials and a sequential number on a nearby rock face. Many of these can still be found today.
Turn off the Great Northern Hwy at Kumarina Road House and travel east until you meet cattle yards at the abandoned Rabbit Proof (RPF), head south passed an old drilling rig and the Mary Mia cattle yards to the turn off from the RPF track, then head eastwards towards Mt Methwin. The windy rocky track to Mt Methwin has washouts and dips and quickly deteriorates. It allows speeds of 10- 20 kph.
The first stop is
Surprising Waters
, found by P Muir on 20 January 1967. Next stop is Tortoise Rock Hole; here P Muir placed white stones to show “PM 11”. Tortoise Rock Hole was a large body of water about 100 metres long and some 10 metres wide.
Continuing easterly along the windy, rutted, bumpy track, often up creek beds, with speeds varying from crawling to around 20 kph, you arrive at the Mt Methwin / Mt Essendon group of hills. The first stop is Waterfall Rock Hole. Depending on the timing of your visit water could be flowing over the 50 feet high water fall. Muir’s “PM 34”, is chiselled into a low rock face behind a spreading fig tree on the north side of the rock pool.
At
Virgin Spring
, follow the track until it stops in small parking area in a shady thicket of 3 metre high scrub and tall white gums. Leave the vehicles and head south east following a path to the main spring and gorge. It is a magnificent series of waterfalls, pools and spillways, lined with rocks and white gums. There are hundreds of rock paintings on both sides of this water course. As you climb higher up the gorge you have magnificent views northwards over the desert. Muir’s inscription “PM 65” is found very high up the water course on an eastern rock face.
Talbot Rock Hole, Muir’s PM 39, is also spectacular. Depending on water run off, visitors could see water flowing over the waterfall into a tree lined picturesque pool. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is chiselled “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, “Talbot 1908” and Muir’s “PM 39”. Rock overhangs on the left hand side of the pool have faint aboriginal art and the name “Tommy” painted onto the rock face.
Serpents Glen
is the next stop; there is an excellent
camping
area here. There is little firewood in the area; so bring it in with you.
Serpents Glen
was named by Muir because of a large serpent like aboriginal painting located at the northern side of the entrance to the gorge. Peter Muir’s inscription “
Serpents Glen
” is located nearby as is other aboriginal art. Rock art adorns most overhangs of the gorge.
Next stop is Peter Muir’s Good Camp Rock Hole. You will find a rock hole a few hundred metres from the track; this however isn’t Good Camp Rock Hole. Walk a little further east and you will find the real Good Camp Rock Hole. On a rock face on its southern side, Peter Muir has inscribed “PM 40” and “Good Camp Rock Hole”.
Following the range south and then east, many high bluffs come into view. From the top of M6 you will have commanding 360º views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 minutes for the walk to the top, it is some 2.5 kilometres for the round trip. There is a magnificent 2 metre high rock cairn at the top of M6.
Leaving the range behind, your next stop is the abandoned Beyondie Station, originally taken up by Tommy Ingebong. The trek ends with a spectacular drive along ridges and up valleys as you head for the Canning Stock Rote and Well 5.
Interactive Route Map
Meekatharra
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population.
Features:
Position: 118.4939ºE 26.5952ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy
Distance:
2.63km
Average Speed:
34.48km/h
Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy
No description entered.
Enter description or photos
.
Features:
Position: 118.5005ºE 26.5853ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd
Distance:
168.18km
Average Speed:
103.73km/h
Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd
Junction of Great Northern Highway & Wiluna North Road.
Features:
Position: 119.2997ºE 25.4019ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy
Distance:
23.02km
Average Speed:
105.03km/h
Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy
Great Northern Highway crosses the Gascoyne River.
Features:
Position: 119.3359ºE 25.2025ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Kumarina Roadhouse
Distance:
64.88km
Average Speed:
105.12km/h
Kumarina Roadhouse
Kumarina Roadhouse has grassy tent sites, unit type accommodation, dining room and a well stocked bar. The roadhouse is a nice place to stay and hosts Bob & Joan Currie are great company.
Features:
Position: 119.6088ºE 24.7084ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Distance:
48.84km
Average Speed:
40.34km/h
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Only ruins of homestead and various old vehicles remain.
Features:
Position: 120.0376ºE 24.7855ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Garden Well
Distance:
55.58km
Average Speed:
26.29km/h
Garden Well
Junction of track from Kumarina Road House and abandoned Rabbit Proof fence.
Features:
Position: 120.0590ºE 24.7801ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Drill Rig
Distance:
15.35km
Average Speed:
52.31km/h
Drill Rig
Abandoned drill rig near the track.
Features:
Position: 120.0859ºE 24.9113ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Old Rabbit Trap
Distance:
7.16km
Average Speed:
47.43km/h
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Features:
Position: 120.1112ºE 24.9708ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Mary Mia Well
Distance:
4.21km
Average Speed:
46.91km/h
Mary Mia Well
Located at junction of Mary Mia Homestead track and abandoned Rabbit Proof Fence. Beware of cattle and don’t set up camp near well, cattle need to access water.
Features:
Position: 120.1208ºE 25.0073ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Old Rabbit Trap
Distance:
6.7km
Average Speed:
36.1km/h
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Features:
Position: 120.1355ºE 25.0361ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access
Distance:
13.63km
Average Speed:
34.44km/h
Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access
Junction of Rabbit Proof Fence and track that heads east towards Mt Essendon.
Features:
Position: 120.1937ºE 25.1468ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Surprising Waters
Distance:
10.8km
Average Speed:
24.01km/h
Surprising Waters
A series of splendid deep rock holes at the head of a creek with open gravel and spinifex flats. Although called PM 35 by Peter Muir it wasn’t marked as such by him.
Features:
Position: 120.2587ºE 25.1552ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Tortoise Rockhole
Distance:
8.98km
Average Speed:
21.66km/h
Tortoise Rockhole
Long but narrow semi permanent pool. Peter Muir’s PM 11 is laid in out white stones on ground.
Features:
Position: 120.3259ºE 25.1731ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Waterfall Rockhole
Distance:
57.08km
Average Speed:
26.35km/h
Waterfall Rockhole
Rockhole at base of range. Peter Muir’s PM 35 is inscribed on rock face on north side of pool near fig tree.
Features:
Position: 120.6603ºE 25.0893ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Virgin Spring
Distance:
8.87km
Average Speed:
17.28km/h
Virgin Spring
Water course and gorge rising steeply up the plateau giving superb views to the north. When running water cascades down the gorge in a series of pools. This is a significant aboriginal art site.
Features:
Position: 120.7208ºE 25.1148ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Talbot Rockhole
Distance:
8.19km
Average Speed:
19.93km/h
Talbot Rockhole
Superb rockhole and water fall. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is inscribed “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, Talbot 1908” and Peter Muir’s “PM 39”. Faint aboriginal art can be found on north side of rock walls.
Features:
Position: 120.7429ºE 25.1382ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Good Camp Rockhole
Distance:
18.88km
Average Speed:
32.41km/h
Good Camp Rockhole
Superb rock hole set in a low breakaway, Muir marked a rock face under a small ledge “PM 40” and a nearby rock face “Good Camp Rock Hole”.
Features:
Position: 120.6504ºE 25.2573ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Serpents Glen
Distance:
1.01km
Average Speed:
12.68km/h
Serpents Glen
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Features:
Position: 120.6491ºE 25.2617ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Main Track & M6 Access
Distance:
8.89km
Average Speed:
26.01km/h
Main Track & M6 Access
Junction of the main track and M6 access.
Features:
Position: 120.6926ºE 25.2902ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
M6 & Parking Area
Distance:
1.12km
Average Speed:
21.86km/h
M6 & Parking Area
Take a scrambling walk up a picturesque gorge that has small pools, ghost gums and overhangs. Then follow the ridgeline to M6 trig point. Once you reach the superbly built cairn you will have commanding 360 views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 mins for a return walk.
Features:
Position: 120.6910ºE 25.2774ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Distance:
16.86km
Average Speed:
29.91km/h
Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Station taken up by aboriginal Tommy Ingebong. You can still see many pools of water near the non functioning windmill. A walking around the area will reveal old horse yards, fences and ruins of shelters.
Features:
Position: 120.8324ºE 25.3308ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place:
CSR Well 5
Distance:
21.84km
Average Speed:
33.42km/h
CSR Well 5
Well 5 - not operational. Large tin tank, broken trough, big information sign behind site with access information and start of Granite Peak track. Dense growth in site area.
Features:
Position: 121.0044ºE 25.3766ºS (GDA 94)
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Permits
Access
permits
not requirement, unless accessing the CSR. Permission to enter Mary Mia Station to be obtained from John Roach by phoning (08) 9981 2929.
Things to See & Do
Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Station taken up by aboriginal Tommy Ingebong. You can still see many pools of water near the non functioning windmill. A walking around the area will reveal old horse yards, fences and ruins of shelters.
M6 & Parking Area
Take a scrambling walk up a picturesque gorge that has small pools, ghost gums and overhangs. Then follow the ridgeline to M6 trig point. Once you reach the superbly built cairn you will have commanding 360 views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 mins for a return walk.
Serpents Glen
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Good Camp Rockhole
Superb rock hole set in a low breakaway, Muir marked a rock face under a small ledge “PM 40” and a nearby rock face “Good Camp Rock Hole”.
Talbot Rockhole
Superb rockhole and water fall. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is inscribed “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, Talbot 1908” and Peter Muir’s “PM 39”. Faint aboriginal art can be found on north side of rock walls.
Virgin Spring
Water course and gorge rising steeply up the plateau giving superb views to the north. When running water cascades down the gorge in a series of pools. This is a significant aboriginal art site.
Waterfall Rockhole
Rockhole at base of range. Peter Muir’s PM 35 is inscribed on rock face on north side of pool near fig tree.
Tortoise Rockhole
Long but narrow semi permanent pool. Peter Muir’s PM 11 is laid in out white stones on ground.
Surprising Waters
A series of splendid deep rock holes at the head of a creek with open gravel and spinifex flats. Although called PM 35 by Peter Muir it wasn’t marked as such by him.
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Drill Rig
Abandoned drill rig near the track.
Mary Mia Well
Located at junction of Mary Mia Homestead track and abandoned Rabbit Proof Fence. Beware of cattle and don’t set up camp near well, cattle need to access water.
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Only ruins of homestead and various old vehicles remain.
Meekatharra
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population. Meekatharra is major supply centre for the pastoral and mining area in the Murchison region of Western Australian.
CSR Well 5
Well 5 - not operational. Large tin tank, broken trough, big information sign behind site with access information and start of Granite Peak track. Dense growth in site area.
Garden Well
Junction of track from Kumarina Road House and abandoned Rabbit Proof fence.
Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Waterfall Rockhole
Mary Mia Well
M6 & Parking Area
Tortoise Rockhole
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Serpents Glen
Surprising Waters
Meekatharra
Good Camp Rockhole
Old Rabbit Trap
CSR Well 5
Talbot Rockhole
Old Rabbit Trap
Garden Well
Virgin Spring
Drill Rig
Preparation
Travelling in remote areas is very exciting and challenging, but you must be thoroughly prepared and self-sufficient. You can't call for local roadside assistance out here. Don't travel this area on your own - if you must, advise the
Meekatharra
or Wiluna police before leaving and when you return.
Have your vehicle fully serviced and checked over for remote area travel by an experienced 4WD service centre, have at least two spare
tyres
, have a spare tube and the appropriate puncture repair gear for your
tyres
and have the usual spares of belts, hoses, fuses, oils, etc.
Ensure you have adequate
recovery gear
including at least a snatch strap, two rated shackles, a towrope and a long handled shovel. Have an
HF Radio
or
Satellite Phone
and
EPIRB
for emergencies. The use of either 27MHz or UHF is only suitable for vehicle convoy work. They will not transmit to emergency services if you strike problems out in the desert.
Ensure you have enough fuel to travel at least 500 km, for the section between
Kumarina roadhouse
and Wiluna. Then allow a sufficient margin of at least 20% on top of that for sand driving, detours and if you happen to be bogged.
Also, ensure you carry sufficient food and water for the whole trek (i.e. minimum of 4 days). There are no fuel stations or supply points available en-route. Kumarina,
Meekatharra
and Wiluna are your closest supply points.
You may find water in water holes but this is not to be relied upon, you should also consider the risks of illness if you drink any of it.
Fuel Supplies & Usage
Meekatharra
,
Kumarina Roadhouse
Diesel
4cyl 80 litres
ULP
4cyl 93 litres
LPG
4cyl 115 litres
6cyl 88 litres
6cyl 103 litres
6cyl 101 litres
8cyl 92 litres
8cyl 95 litres
Usage is averaged from
TrekFuel
(* specific to trek) submissions and calculated based on trek distance.
Best Time To Visit
The cooler months of April to September is the best time to travel in this region.
Closest Climatic Station
Wiluna
Distance from Trek Mid Point 121.78km SE
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Mean Max. °C
37.7
36.5
34.0
29.1
23.7
19.8
19.2
21.7
26.3
30.1
34.0
36.8
Mean Min. °C
22.8
22.1
19.6
15.0
10.0
6.7
5.3
6.7
9.9
13.7
17.9
21.1
Mean Rain mm
36.0
37.7
36.2
29.7
26.0
24.4
15.3
10.4
4.5
7.2
9.9
20.8
Best time to travel
Ok time to travel
Travel NOT recommended
Services & Supplies
The following locations have various services and supplies:
Meekatharra
,
Kumarina Roadhouse
Camp Sites & Accomodation
Serpents Glen
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Meekatharra
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population. Meekatharra is major supply centre for the pastoral and mining area in the Murchison region of Western Australian.
Kumarina Roadhouse
Kumarina Roadhouse has grassy tent sites, unit type accommodation, dining room and a well stocked bar. The roadhouse is a nice place to stay and hosts Bob & Joan Currie are great company.
Serpents Glen
Meekatharra
Kumarina Roadhouse
Environment
The country around the RPF is pastoral country with mainly grassy flats and spinifex plains. As you approach the ranges belts of trees, rocky areas interspersed with low dunes are the main features.
Should rain have fallen recently then the risk of boggy patches is high and appropriate preparation and care needs to be taken.
There are few corrugations however many of the tracks are rocky and rutted; punctures from rocks are a real risk.
Should you be interested in animal life we have regularly seen dingoes, kangaroos, donkeys, camels and many birds on our visits to the area.
History
Significant aboriginal art work of varying age found through shows the area was of great importance to them.
John
Forrest
on his 1874 expedition across
Western Australia
named
Carnarvon Range
, after the Right Honourable the Secretary of State for the Colonies.
Government geologist HWB Talbot visited the area whilst on Geological Survey 39 in 1908/1909. Talbot Rock Hole is named after him.
Mal Brown, a CSR drover, was exploring the area with camels in 1929 and named Virgin Springs.
Peter Muir the indefatigable government dogger worked along the rabbit proof fence in the 1960s, he explored the area naming many features.
Driving Directions
Time
Direction
Distance
Meekatharra to Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy
2.63 km
NE
30°
4 min
Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy to Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd
168.18 km
NE
31°
1 hr 37 min
Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd to Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy
23.02 km
N
9°
13 min
Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy to Kumarina Roadhouse
64.88 km
NE
27°
37 min
Kumarina Roadhouse to Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
48.84 km
E
101°
1 hr 12 min
Beyondie Station (Abandoned) to Garden Well
55.58 km
E
74°
2 hr 6 min
Garden Well to Drill Rig
15.35 km
S
169°
17 min
Drill Rig to Old Rabbit Trap
7.16 km
S
159°
9 min
Old Rabbit Trap to Mary Mia Well
4.21 km
S
167°
5 min
Mary Mia Well to Old Rabbit Trap
6.7 km
SE
155°
11 min
Old Rabbit Trap to Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access
13.63 km
SE
155°
23 min
Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access to Surprising Waters
10.8 km
E
98°
26 min
Surprising Waters to Tortoise Rockhole
8.98 km
E
106°
24 min
Tortoise Rockhole to Waterfall Rockhole
57.08 km
E
75°
2 hr 9 min
Waterfall Rockhole to Virgin Spring
8.87 km
SE
115°
30 min
Virgin Spring to Talbot Rockhole
8.19 km
SE
139°
24 min
Talbot Rockhole to Good Camp Rockhole
18.88 km
SW
215°
34 min
Good Camp Rockhole to Serpents Glen
1.01 km
S
195°
4 min
Serpents Glen to Main Track & M6 Access
8.89 km
SE
126°
20 min
Main Track & M6 Access to M6 & Parking Area
1.12 km
N
354°
3 min
M6 & Parking Area to Blue Hills (Abandoned)
16.86 km
SE
113°
33 min
Blue Hills (Abandoned) to CSR Well 5
21.84 km
E
106°
39 min
Meekatharra to CSR Well 5
572.68 km
14 hr 2 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.
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What Others have Posted
Bryan (WA) : 23 Aug 08 10:59
HI All, Ive just been advised by the owners of Neds Creek Station (...
HI All,
Ive just been advised by the owners of Neds Creek Station (the stations that iis below Maty Mia) that the carnarvan ranges is now native title and
permits
are required.
Read Full Thread...
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