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Carnarvon Range
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Carnarvon Range

Difficulty: Trek rating 3.5 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 3.5 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 3.5 of 5 - Click for detailsTrek rating 3.5 of 5 - Click for details   Suitable for: 4WD 
The little known Carnarvon Range is nestled between the Canning Stock Route and Kumarina Road House. Originally discovered by John Forrest, this range rises majestically out of the spinifex plain; it has gorges, rockholes, waterfalls and aboriginal art. Few people visit the range and its environs; it’s a 4Wdriving paradise and a magical place to visit.
StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesMeekatharra
Trek
FinishCSR Well 5
Distance572.68 kmMinimum Days4
Average Speed40.8 km/hrDriving Time14 hr 2 min
Article By: Member - Phil Bianchi   Updated: 18 Aug 2008
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 Description

Dogger Peter Muir, who worked in the area in the 1960s, discovered many rockholes and features in the area. He named them and in most cases inscribed his initials and a sequential number on a nearby rock face. Many of these can still be found today.

Turn off the Great Northern Hwy at Kumarina Road House and travel east until you meet cattle yards at the abandoned Rabbit Proof (RPF), head south passed an old drilling rig and the Mary Mia cattle yards to the turn off from the RPF track, then head eastwards towards Mt Methwin. The windy rocky track to Mt Methwin has washouts and dips and quickly deteriorates. It allows speeds of 10- 20 kph.

The first stop is Surprising Waters, found by P Muir on 20 January 1967. Next stop is Tortoise Rock Hole; here P Muir placed white stones to show “PM 11”. Tortoise Rock Hole was a large body of water about 100 metres long and some 10 metres wide.

Continuing easterly along the windy, rutted, bumpy track, often up creek beds, with speeds varying from crawling to around 20 kph, you arrive at the Mt Methwin / Mt Essendon group of hills. The first stop is Waterfall Rock Hole. Depending on the timing of your visit water could be flowing over the 50 feet high water fall. Muir’s “PM 34”, is chiselled into a low rock face behind a spreading fig tree on the north side of the rock pool.

At Virgin Spring, follow the track until it stops in small parking area in a shady thicket of 3 metre high scrub and tall white gums. Leave the vehicles and head south east following a path to the main spring and gorge. It is a magnificent series of waterfalls, pools and spillways, lined with rocks and white gums. There are hundreds of rock paintings on both sides of this water course. As you climb higher up the gorge you have magnificent views northwards over the desert. Muir’s inscription “PM 65” is found very high up the water course on an eastern rock face.

Talbot Rock Hole, Muir’s PM 39, is also spectacular. Depending on water run off, visitors could see water flowing over the waterfall into a tree lined picturesque pool. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is chiselled “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, “Talbot 1908” and Muir’s “PM 39”. Rock overhangs on the left hand side of the pool have faint aboriginal art and the name “Tommy” painted onto the rock face.

Serpents Glen is the next stop; there is an excellent camping area here. There is little firewood in the area; so bring it in with you. Serpents Glen was named by Muir because of a large serpent like aboriginal painting located at the northern side of the entrance to the gorge. Peter Muir’s inscription “Serpents Glen” is located nearby as is other aboriginal art. Rock art adorns most overhangs of the gorge.

Next stop is Peter Muir’s Good Camp Rock Hole. You will find a rock hole a few hundred metres from the track; this however isn’t Good Camp Rock Hole. Walk a little further east and you will find the real Good Camp Rock Hole. On a rock face on its southern side, Peter Muir has inscribed “PM 40” and “Good Camp Rock Hole”.

Following the range south and then east, many high bluffs come into view. From the top of M6 you will have commanding 360º views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 minutes for the walk to the top, it is some 2.5 kilometres for the round trip. There is a magnificent 2 metre high rock cairn at the top of M6.

Leaving the range behind, your next stop is the abandoned Beyondie Station, originally taken up by Tommy Ingebong. The trek ends with a spectacular drive along ridges and up valleys as you head for the Canning Stock Rote and Well 5.

 Interactive Route Map

MeekatharraGreat Northern Hwy & Goldfields HwyGreat Northern Hwy & Wiluna North RdGascoyne River, Great Northern HwyKumarina RoadhouseBeyondie Station (Abandoned)Garden WellDrill RigOld Rabbit TrapMary Mia WellOld Rabbit TrapRabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon AccessSurprising WatersTortoise RockholeWaterfall RockholeVirgin SpringTalbot RockholeGood Camp RockholeSerpents GlenMain Track & M6 AccessM6 & Parking AreaBlue Hills (Abandoned)CSR Well 5
Meekatharra
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population.
Features: Populated PlaceService Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel Point of Interest
Position: 118.4939ºE   26.5952ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy
Distance: 2.63km
Average Speed: 34.48km/h
Features: Junction,Intersection,Turn Off
Position: 118.5005ºE   26.5853ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd
Distance: 168.18km
Average Speed: 103.73km/h
Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd
Junction of Great Northern Highway & Wiluna North Road.
Features: Junction,Intersection,Turn Off
Position: 119.2997ºE   25.4019ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy
Distance: 23.02km
Average Speed: 105.03km/h
Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy
Great Northern Highway crosses the Gascoyne River.
Features: River Crossing
Position: 119.3359ºE   25.2025ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Kumarina Roadhouse
Distance: 64.88km
Average Speed: 105.12km/h
Kumarina Roadhouse
Kumarina Roadhouse has grassy tent sites, unit type accommodation, dining room and a well stocked bar. The roadhouse is a nice place to stay and hosts Bob & Joan Currie are great company.
Features: Populated PlaceService Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Fuel Water Supply Toilet Food,Shopping Camp Fee Resort,Motel
Position: 119.6088ºE   24.7084ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Distance: 48.84km
Average Speed: 40.34km/h
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)
Only ruins of homestead and various old vehicles remain.
Features: Point of Interest
Position: 120.0376ºE   24.7855ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Garden Well
Distance: 55.58km
Average Speed: 26.29km/h
Garden Well
Junction of track from Kumarina Road House and abandoned Rabbit Proof fence.
Features: Junction,Intersection,Turn OffPoint of Interest
Position: 120.0590ºE   24.7801ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Drill Rig
Distance: 15.35km
Average Speed: 52.31km/h
Drill Rig
Abandoned drill rig near the track.
Features: Point of Interest
Position: 120.0859ºE   24.9113ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Old Rabbit Trap
Distance: 7.16km
Average Speed: 47.43km/h
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Features: Point of Interest
Position: 120.1112ºE   24.9708ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Mary Mia Well
Distance: 4.21km
Average Speed: 46.91km/h
Mary Mia Well
Located at junction of Mary Mia Homestead track and abandoned Rabbit Proof Fence. Beware of cattle and don’t set up camp near well, cattle need to access water.
Features: Water SupplyPoint of Interest
Position: 120.1208ºE   25.0073ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Old Rabbit Trap
Distance: 6.7km
Average Speed: 36.1km/h
Old Rabbit Trap
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Features: Point of Interest
Position: 120.1355ºE   25.0361ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access
Distance: 13.63km
Average Speed: 34.44km/h
Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access
Junction of Rabbit Proof Fence and track that heads east towards Mt Essendon.
Features: Junction,Intersection,Turn Off
Position: 120.1937ºE   25.1468ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Surprising Waters
Distance: 10.8km
Average Speed: 24.01km/h
Surprising Waters
A series of splendid deep rock holes at the head of a creek with open gravel and spinifex flats. Although called PM 35 by Peter Muir it wasn’t marked as such by him.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.2587ºE   25.1552ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Tortoise Rockhole
Distance: 8.98km
Average Speed: 21.66km/h
Tortoise Rockhole
Long but narrow semi permanent pool. Peter Muir’s PM 11 is laid in out white stones on ground.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.3259ºE   25.1731ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Waterfall Rockhole
Distance: 57.08km
Average Speed: 26.35km/h
Waterfall Rockhole
Rockhole at base of range. Peter Muir’s PM 35 is inscribed on rock face on north side of pool near fig tree.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.6603ºE   25.0893ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Virgin Spring
Distance: 8.87km
Average Speed: 17.28km/h
Virgin Spring
Water course and gorge rising steeply up the plateau giving superb views to the north. When running water cascades down the gorge in a series of pools. This is a significant aboriginal art site.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.7208ºE   25.1148ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Talbot Rockhole
Distance: 8.19km
Average Speed: 19.93km/h
Talbot Rockhole
Superb rockhole and water fall. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is inscribed “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, Talbot 1908” and Peter Muir’s “PM 39”. Faint aboriginal art can be found on north side of rock walls.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.7429ºE   25.1382ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Good Camp Rockhole
Distance: 18.88km
Average Speed: 32.41km/h
Good Camp Rockhole
Superb rock hole set in a low breakaway, Muir marked a rock face under a small ledge “PM 40” and a nearby rock face “Good Camp Rock Hole”.
Features: Water Body,River,Stream,FallsPoint of Interest
Position: 120.6504ºE   25.2573ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Serpents Glen
Distance: 1.01km
Average Speed: 12.68km/h
Serpents Glen
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Features: Camp FreePoint of Interest
Position: 120.6491ºE   25.2617ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Main Track & M6 Access
Distance: 8.89km
Average Speed: 26.01km/h
Main Track & M6 Access
Junction of the main track and M6 access.
Features: Junction,Intersection,Turn Off
Position: 120.6926ºE   25.2902ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: M6 & Parking Area
Distance: 1.12km
Average Speed: 21.86km/h
M6 & Parking Area
Take a scrambling walk up a picturesque gorge that has small pools, ghost gums and overhangs. Then follow the ridgeline to M6 trig point. Once you reach the superbly built cairn you will have commanding 360 views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 mins for a return walk.
Features: Mountain,Peak,HillPoint of Interest
Position: 120.6910ºE   25.2774ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Distance: 16.86km
Average Speed: 29.91km/h
Blue Hills (Abandoned)
Station taken up by aboriginal Tommy Ingebong. You can still see many pools of water near the non functioning windmill. A walking around the area will reveal old horse yards, fences and ruins of shelters.
Features: Populated PlaceAboriginal Lands,Communities Point of Interest
Position: 120.8324ºE   25.3308ºS (GDA 94)
Next Place: CSR Well 5
Distance: 21.84km
Average Speed: 33.42km/h
CSR Well 5
Well 5 - not operational. Large tin tank, broken trough, big information sign behind site with access information and start of Granite Peak track. Dense growth in site area.
Features: Point of Interest
Position: 121.0044ºE   25.3766ºS (GDA 94)

Route Control

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 Permits

Access permits not requirement, unless accessing the CSR. Permission to enter Mary Mia Station to be obtained from John Roach by phoning (08) 9981 2929.

 Things to See & Do

Blue Hills (Abandoned)   
Populated Place Aboriginal Lands,Communities Point of Interest
Station taken up by aboriginal Tommy Ingebong. You can still see many pools of water near the non functioning windmill. A walking around the area will reveal old horse yards, fences and ruins of shelters.
M6 & Parking Area   
Mountain,Peak,Hill Point of Interest
Take a scrambling walk up a picturesque gorge that has small pools, ghost gums and overhangs. Then follow the ridgeline to M6 trig point. Once you reach the superbly built cairn you will have commanding 360 views. Allow 2 hrs and 45 mins for a return walk.
Serpents Glen   
Camp Free Point of Interest
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Good Camp Rockhole   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
Superb rock hole set in a low breakaway, Muir marked a rock face under a small ledge “PM 40” and a nearby rock face “Good Camp Rock Hole”.
Talbot Rockhole   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
Superb rockhole and water fall. On the cliff face beside the rock hole is inscribed “CW/92”, “T Pouthard 4th July 1893”, Talbot 1908” and Peter Muir’s “PM 39”. Faint aboriginal art can be found on north side of rock walls.
Virgin Spring   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
Water course and gorge rising steeply up the plateau giving superb views to the north. When running water cascades down the gorge in a series of pools. This is a significant aboriginal art site.
Waterfall Rockhole   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
Rockhole at base of range. Peter Muir’s PM 35 is inscribed on rock face on north side of pool near fig tree.
Tortoise Rockhole   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
Long but narrow semi permanent pool. Peter Muir’s PM 11 is laid in out white stones on ground.
Surprising Waters   
Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
A series of splendid deep rock holes at the head of a creek with open gravel and spinifex flats. Although called PM 35 by Peter Muir it wasn’t marked as such by him.
Old Rabbit Trap   
Point of Interest 
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Old Rabbit Trap   
Point of Interest 
Wire cage that allowed rabbits to enter and not escape.
Drill Rig   
Point of Interest 
Abandoned drill rig near the track.
Mary Mia Well   
Water Supply Point of Interest
Located at junction of Mary Mia Homestead track and abandoned Rabbit Proof Fence. Beware of cattle and don’t set up camp near well, cattle need to access water.
Beyondie Station (Abandoned)   
Point of Interest 
Only ruins of homestead and various old vehicles remain.
Meekatharra   
Populated Place Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel Point of Interest
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population. Meekatharra is major supply centre for the pastoral and mining area in the Murchison region of Western Australian.
CSR Well 5   
Point of Interest 
Well 5 - not operational. Large tin tank, broken trough, big information sign behind site with access information and start of Granite Peak track. Dense growth in site area.
Garden Well   
Junction,Intersection,Turn Off Point of Interest
Junction of track from Kumarina Road House and abandoned Rabbit Proof fence.

 Preparation

Travelling in remote areas is very exciting and challenging, but you must be thoroughly prepared and self-sufficient. You can't call for local roadside assistance out here. Don't travel this area on your own - if you must, advise the Meekatharra or Wiluna police before leaving and when you return.

Have your vehicle fully serviced and checked over for remote area travel by an experienced 4WD service centre, have at least two spare tyres, have a spare tube and the appropriate puncture repair gear for your tyres and have the usual spares of belts, hoses, fuses, oils, etc.

Ensure you have adequate recovery gear including at least a snatch strap, two rated shackles, a towrope and a long handled shovel. Have an HF Radio or Satellite Phone and EPIRB for emergencies. The use of either 27MHz or UHF is only suitable for vehicle convoy work. They will not transmit to emergency services if you strike problems out in the desert.

Ensure you have enough fuel to travel at least 500 km, for the section between Kumarina roadhouse and Wiluna. Then allow a sufficient margin of at least 20% on top of that for sand driving, detours and if you happen to be bogged.

Also, ensure you carry sufficient food and water for the whole trek (i.e. minimum of 4 days). There are no fuel stations or supply points available en-route. Kumarina, Meekatharra and Wiluna are your closest supply points.

You may find water in water holes but this is not to be relied upon, you should also consider the risks of illness if you drink any of it.

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Fuel SymbolMeekatharra, Kumarina Roadhouse Diesel4cyl 80 litres ULP4cyl 93 litres LPG4cyl 115 litres
6cyl 88 litres6cyl 103 litres6cyl 101 litres
8cyl 92 litres8cyl 95 litres
Usage is averaged from TrekFuel (* specific to trek) submissions and calculated based on trek distance.

Best Time To Visit

The cooler months of April to September is the best time to travel in this region.

Closest Climatic Station

Wiluna
Distance from Trek Mid Point 121.78km SE
 JanFebMarAprMayJun JulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean Max. °C 37.736.534.029.1 23.719.819.221.7 26.330.134.036.8
Mean Min. °C 22.822.119.615.0 10.06.75.36.7 9.913.717.921.1
Mean Rain mm 36.037.736.229.7 26.024.415.310.4 4.57.29.920.8
    Best time to travel      Ok time to travel      Travel NOT recommended

Services & Supplies

The following locations have various services and supplies: Meekatharra, Kumarina Roadhouse

 Camp Sites & Accomodation

Serpents Glen   
Camp Free Point of Interest
Superb camping spot. Peter Muir named this site because of the large serpent in the aboriginal art at the entrance to the glen on the northern side. Muir’s only mark is the inscription “Serpents Glen” near the art site.
Meekatharra   
Populated Place Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel Point of Interest
Meekatharra is a town of approximately 800 inhabitants. Meekatharra is an Australian Aboriginal word meaning 'place of little water'. There is a considerable local Aboriginal population. Meekatharra is major supply centre for the pastoral and mining area in the Murchison region of Western Australian.
Kumarina Roadhouse   
Populated Place Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park Fuel Water Supply Toilet Food,Shopping Camp Fee Resort,Motel
Kumarina Roadhouse has grassy tent sites, unit type accommodation, dining room and a well stocked bar. The roadhouse is a nice place to stay and hosts Bob & Joan Currie are great company.

 Environment

The country around the RPF is pastoral country with mainly grassy flats and spinifex plains. As you approach the ranges belts of trees, rocky areas interspersed with low dunes are the main features.

Should rain have fallen recently then the risk of boggy patches is high and appropriate preparation and care needs to be taken.

There are few corrugations however many of the tracks are rocky and rutted; punctures from rocks are a real risk.

Should you be interested in animal life we have regularly seen dingoes, kangaroos, donkeys, camels and many birds on our visits to the area.

 History

Significant aboriginal art work of varying age found through shows the area was of great importance to them.

John Forrest on his 1874 expedition across Western Australia named Carnarvon Range, after the Right Honourable the Secretary of State for the Colonies.

Government geologist HWB Talbot visited the area whilst on Geological Survey 39 in 1908/1909. Talbot Rock Hole is named after him.

Mal Brown, a CSR drover, was exploring the area with camels in 1929 and named Virgin Springs.

Peter Muir the indefatigable government dogger worked along the rabbit proof fence in the 1960s, he explored the area naming many features.

 Driving Directions

Time
Direction
Distance
Meekatharra to Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy 2.63 km NE 30° 4 min
Great Northern Hwy & Goldfields Hwy to Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd 168.18 km NE 31° 1 hr 37 min
Great Northern Hwy & Wiluna North Rd to Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy 23.02 km N 13 min
Gascoyne River, Great Northern Hwy to Kumarina Roadhouse 64.88 km NE 27° 37 min
Kumarina Roadhouse to Beyondie Station (Abandoned) 48.84 km E 101° 1 hr 12 min
Beyondie Station (Abandoned) to Garden Well 55.58 km E 74° 2 hr 6 min
Garden Well to Drill Rig 15.35 km S 169° 17 min
Drill Rig to Old Rabbit Trap 7.16 km S 159° 9 min
Old Rabbit Trap to Mary Mia Well 4.21 km S 167° 5 min
Mary Mia Well to Old Rabbit Trap 6.7 km SE 155° 11 min
Old Rabbit Trap to Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access 13.63 km SE 155° 23 min
Rabbit Proof Fence & Mt Essendon Access to Surprising Waters 10.8 km E 98° 26 min
Surprising Waters to Tortoise Rockhole 8.98 km E 106° 24 min
Tortoise Rockhole to Waterfall Rockhole 57.08 km E 75° 2 hr 9 min
Waterfall Rockhole to Virgin Spring 8.87 km SE 115° 30 min
Virgin Spring to Talbot Rockhole 8.19 km SE 139° 24 min
Talbot Rockhole to Good Camp Rockhole 18.88 km SW 215° 34 min
Good Camp Rockhole to Serpents Glen 1.01 km S 195° 4 min
Serpents Glen to Main Track & M6 Access 8.89 km SE 126° 20 min
Main Track & M6 Access to M6 & Parking Area 1.12 km N 354° 3 min
M6 & Parking Area to Blue Hills (Abandoned) 16.86 km SE 113° 33 min
Blue Hills (Abandoned) to CSR Well 5 21.84 km E 106° 39 min
Meekatharra to CSR Well 5 572.68 km     14 hr 2 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.

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