ev700 posted:

Michael
That is what I was thinking only I am worried about the heat of the turbo.
EV700

ev700 posted:

Howard T
I think it is only a few dollars dearer than GTX for 5 litres.
EV700

ev700 posted:

Bob V
Thanks, having sat and thought about it this is probably the way I'll go.

I think I'll be getting some quotes on a centrifuge though - not to extend services but to keep things clean.
John

Utemad posted:

Our F-250 diesels are 7500km intervals. New Rodeos are 10000km. I think Landrover diesels have even larger intervals.

Although I was reading my Rodeo owners manual the other day and it said that for the 2.8 t/d it was 5000km but 10000km if you used a specific oil.

Member - Jeff M (WA) posted:

When I had a petrol I changed the oil every 5000kms even though the recomendation was 10k. I have always belived that regular oil changes are the key to longivity.
There is no way that I would leave oil in my motor for 15k if I was planning on keeping the vehicle for any length of time. MHO.

Also, yeah diesel costs more per litre. To assume that it costs more to run a diesel because of that is neive.
I prefer my 12L per km rather than 20L per km thank you very much. Not to mention the better torque when off road.

But each to their own and I understand that petrol is a better option for some people. Can't judge a book by it's cover is all I'm saying.

MrBitchi posted:

One thing you do get with deisel is range. That I envy....

I change oils at the recommended intervals. If the manufacturer says 15K then 15K is good enough for me. They also recomend shorter intervals in harsh conditions so I take that into account as well. Normal highway and around town does not count as harsh conditions, therefore I consider 5K to be a very short interval, under those conditions.

If, however, changing the oil at more regular intervals brings you peace of mind, thats what you should do. Lifes too short to stress about it.

JMO.

Utemad posted:

I agree Jeff. The scheduled oil changes are for ideal operating environments. When you add beach work with its salty environments, fine dust, extremely hot or cold conditions, being loaded up or a combination of these and more. Then it would be prudent to change more regularly.

Mind you I'm a lazy fella when it comes to these things. I take my ute to be serviced however I do big things and fit accessories myself. I guess the reason being is that there are probably little things that I could not see developing into big things.

Member - Jeff M (WA) posted:

Yeah I used to do the same thing until they started stuffing that up too! I have reverted to doing it myself. I've been collecting (slowly) my own mechincal workshop. Hopfully some axel stands and a trolly jack for fathers day!!??
The surf's great though, the sump plug is just in line with the rear of the bash plate so you don't have to remove anything to get to it, you just lay down with your socket in hand, undo it, drain it, change the filter and whack some more oil in, once you've got used to doing it on your own truck you can getup on a satuday morning and change the oil before your first coffee! Takes no time at all. With a trolly jack I'll be able to do it on the little shopping trolly as well, save heaps of doe. Got the grease gun now, so just whack some grease in every 10k. Easy. Blow out the air filter with my expesnsive $99 GMC air compressot LOL.

Member - Jeff M (WA) posted:

I have been using Shell Diesel Super 15w40 in the surf for the last 4 or 5 changes and am happy to report tthat the oil comes out nice and dirty.

??? some of you might say..

One of the main purposes of the oil in diesel engines is to clean out the crap that builds up including acids produced by sulfer. If your oil ain't comming out dirty then it ain't doing it's job.

The other thing to do is make sure that when you change your oil make sure the engine is warmed up so all that vegimite losens up and comes out, just don't burn you hands!

so you are not just changing the oil because it has broken down and is not an effective lubricant, you are changing it because it is getting saturated with crap and is no longer effeciant in it's cleaning dutys letting all sorts of nastys build up and fester in your motor.
Synthetic diesel oils may last 15,000kms without breaking down, but they may not be cleaning your engine effectivly.

Davoe posted:

Jeff, we had 2 utes we used underground one had the standard black oil when you checked it and the other had oil clearer than a gas powered vehicle. Kinda strange really, I often wondered why this was the only diesal engine I had seen with oil like that

Member - Jeff M (WA) posted:

Davoe, how bizzare, I wonder if they were using the same oil? I guess they would be in a fleet situation, strange...

Member - Jeff M (WA) posted:

Acutally funny you should mention Synforce, Bob, as they are who recommended Shell to me, I always used to use Caltex with my petrols and started to on the diesels but when I asked them what they recommend Shell was "one of the good guys". I hate shell fuel, it sucks (well in WA anyway). My road bike wouldn't even run on it's premium and my shopping trolly pings like bstrd on normal shell ULP.
I would like to try Synforce but the freight to WA just pushes it a little out of the feasable price range for me. Shell I buy at my local autoone (1 minute drive form home) at $44 per 10L which seems reasonable. Certainly not worth drving halfway accross town to try and save a couple more dollars.

Bob H posted:

EXCEPT that synforce came out on top and penrite came out on the bottom. another way of putting it is that robs more performance than synforce. i just wish that more oils were tested to give a better indication.

regards

Bob

Bob H posted:

ooops, meant that penrite robs performance more than synforce and the other oils tested.

Davoe posted:

a thinner oil will create less resistance for the crank etc to plough through which may create a marginal differance to consumption power etc but would it be doing the correct job of a thicker oil? I very much doubt that it is the lubricating qualitys of the oil that results in the differance

ev700 posted:

Lindsay S
I rang a LandRovermechanic who said the centrifugal filter was special to the Landie and combined with the usual high flow. He thought that connecting the Mann & Hummel to a 100 Series would be difficult because there was no access to the crankcase - although I did see on a website that for some vehicles it is possible to get a fitting to mount between the usual high flow and the crankcase wall.

Mann & Hummel have a suitable centrifugal filter, the question is how to mount it. Or failing that to put in a Racor bypass filter - again how is it mounted?
thanks
EV700

Member - Lindsay S (Int) posted:

Hi EV
I guess from your reply you have had a look at one of the Mann & Hummel websites. If you go to www.mann-hummel.com this is the main site. Select liquid filter systems from the menu on the left of the home page, next select informational material which is the last selection before the search on that page menu. Go to the bottom of the list which comes up and you will find a 12 page pdf in english called centrifugal cleaners. This contains the dimensions and fitting information on the FMO16 centrifuge. This is to my knowlege the smallest retrofit centrifuge made and has a disposable plastic rotor which sorts out the worst aspect of fuel centrifuges which is cleaning them.
I am not familiar with the LC100 engine in any detail. ( at the end of my apprenticeship many years ago, I was given the advise by my journeyman that if I was stupid enough to get involved with anything with less than a ten inch bore I deserved all the misery I got. This has largely proved to be true!) As mentioned in the Mann and Hummel information it is important to ensure the existing oil pump has a capacity 10% above its requirements, I would be surprised if it did not. Keep in mind that freer flowing oil such as the wide range multigrades take a fair bit of load off the pump and may be the difference in what you need. Keep also in mind that the flow charecteristics of the lubrication system will have been designed for the worst possible case, i.e. oil in poor condition combined with dirty and restricted filters. This condition will never be attained if a centrifuge is fitted. As an example we had occasion to have to run an engine with the centrifuge off line due to equipment failure and the 10 micron paper elements set off the differential alarm within 30 hours running time. Their normal run time is 2000hrs.
The FMO16 centrifuge is designed to be remote mounted. The feed should be a relatively simple matter and can be taken from a suitable connection on the oil gallery. If there are no spare plugs available you could tee in behind a pressure sender or somewhere. The drain may be more of a problem as it is important this is unrestricted and goes back into the motor above the oil level. It is also relatively large at 25mm.
The Racor is an option but can not hold a candle to a centrifuge. The principle is no better than the normal paper element and simply traps smaller particles, whearas the centrifuge takes out anything heavier than oil and cannot lose efficiency by blocking up unless it is allowed to fill up completely. The first time you cut one open will justify the cost and any trouble taken to fit it. Good luck with the project and if I can be of any further help please let me know.

ev700 posted:

Martyn
Thanks and yes I'll go by the correct specification in the handbook. However you can do this much more economically with some brands of oil - however the jury seems to be out on whether or not the more expensive oils offer greater value for money (reduced wear and better performance).
EV700