Stray Current Testing Procedure.

Submitted: Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:10
ThreadID: 16874 Views:19802 Replies:3 FollowUps:6
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Here is the testing procedure that I said I would post for those who are interested in keeping their cooling system at its optimum performance level.
Any time a new electrical component has been added to your car it is good insurance to simply have it checked to make sure that no stray current issues are introduced to you cooling system. Stray current (WILL) harm your cooling system and if new radiator is damaged by stray current it is not covered under the radiator manufacturers warranty. In severe cases in can destroy a radiator in weeks.
For more info and photo's go to are.com.au and have a look at their the horror pics in the technical section.
Regards Andrew.

Stray Current Testing Procedure.

Diagnosing Electrolysis/Stray Current Corrosion Testing procedure.

(Please Note:)
It is recommended that a qualified Auto electrician or Radiator Repair Specialist carry out this procedure.

Tools/Equipment Required.
Voltmeter (multimeter) with a scale able to read in millivolts (Analogue voltmeter is preferred).
Or
A radiator industry designed stray current detector preset to 50mV. (0.05 volts)
Target range below 50mV. However any voltage reading in the cooling system should be corrected, as further deterioration will cause major damage.
Procedure.

1: Connect the voltmeter or current detector negative terminal to the battery ground and the positive terminal directly into the coolant (ensure not to touch the metal core or filler neck).
2: With the ignition on and again with the engine running, check EVERY component. Whilst you are monitoring the presence of stray voltage in the cooling system, have a fellow worker operate the brake lights, parking, head and high beam lights and indeed all electrical components (whether factory or aftermarket) and check for any increase in voltage readings in your voltmeter.
Fail:
If you get a reading above 50mV (0.05 volts) or a red fail light on the current detector.
Do Not Proceed:
The source of the current leakage should be found, as this can destroy a radiator in a short period of time (hours or days, depending on the level of voltage) and severely damage other engine components.
It is highly recommended that all repairs or work carried out on a vehicles electrical system or component is carried out by a qualified auto electrician.
Note:
The cooling system cannot be successfully passed as being free from stray current voltage if the system contains coolant, it has been found that coolant may provide inaccurate readings.
Pass:
Only when the analogue voltmeter reads below 50mV (0.05 volts) or a green pass light is obtained should you proceed to fit a new radiator or recharge a cooling system with coolant.
In both cases the flushing procedure should be followed prior to the vehicle being released.
Note:
Some coolants have been known to retain an electrical charge after the fault has been detected and repaired. All testing for stray current should be carried out using clean water (demineralised or distilled) after the flushing procedure has been carried out. It would be very wise to test the vehicle again in one or two days to ensure stray current related problems are corrected and coolant has settled down.
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Reply By: Eric Experience. - Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:32

Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:32
Awill.
This proceedure is incorrect and will leed to wrong answers, there will be a voltage of about the 50mv you mention between the battery negative post and the radiator whenever there is a heavy current flowing in or out of the battery, this is due to voltage drop across the earth strap and the car body,. The correct way to use the tester is to connect the earth leed to the cylinder head and then measure the voltage on the radiator. Thanks for raising the subject. Eric.
AnswerID: 79308

Reply By: Member - Bradley- Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:34

Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:34
is it any advantage or help if you add extra bonding straps to the radiator core, connected direct back to the batt neg. ??? or bond between the rad and the engine block. ?? i would think this would alleviate the stray current before it could do any corrosion damage (maybe not) Thanks Brad
AnswerID: 79309

Follow Up By: V8troopie - Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:48

Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:48
the way I see it, if you want to prevent current flowing through the radiator, it should be insulated electrically, not bonded to the chassis. The rubber radiator hoses insulate it from the engine and if its mounted on rubber grommets as well, it's insulated.
Keeping in mind, this scare applies to aluminium radiators, I doubt there is much to worry about with copper cored radiators. Certainly not on my 15 year old troopie, the radiator core looks as good as new despite me having added a lot of electrical gadgets over the years.
Klaus
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Follow Up By: Yeah Mate - Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 06:09

Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 06:09
Hey V8troopie,
Does h2o conduct electricity???
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Follow Up By: Rosco - Bris. - Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 07:54

Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 07:54
Pure H2O does not conduct electricity. Add a few minerals as in tap water, or coolant to demineralised water and it's a different story.
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Reply By: V8troopie - Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:36

Thursday, Oct 07, 2004 at 23:36
my head did not stop shaking in wondrement while I read this. Are you in the business selling radiators by any chance?
Klaus
AnswerID: 79310

Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 00:48

Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 00:48
V8 Troopie I don't so much sell them as I have an interest in building custom ones for motor racing and for a few friends with street rods.
My day job is custom Tig welding for the motorsport industry, specialising in Chrome/Moly, Stainless, Aluminium & Titanium
Why not do the research and check out the problems with stray current which is well documented by the way by all the OEM radiator manufacturers. I buy custom cores from K&J Thermal Products and from Adrad and off the shelf cores when I can find core size to suit an application and in "EVERY" instance the core is supplied with disclaimer from the manufacturer regarding stray current & mixing coolants.
If you wish to bury your head in the sand so be it but the problem is real and simply ignoring it won't make it go away.
Regards Andrew.

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Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 01:21

Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 01:21
V8 Troopie, I'll even do the research for you here are some of the links available after just a short search on Google.
The 1st one from ARE in Brisbane is my favourite, the whole site is an absolute gem and the info provided is priceless.
http://www.are.com.au/Hor/horror_pictures.htm
http://www.adrad.com.au/electrolysis.htm
http://www.denso.com.au/dw/radi/radi_tech.htm
http://www.engineproblem.com.au/rad_service.htm
http://www.allhead.com.au/glossary.html
http://www.ultraflush.com.au/fail.htm
http://www.jaguar.org.au/cooling-system-tips.htm
http://www.southtweedautos.com.au/640/radiators.html
I also have literature at work from Denso, Natra, K&J, Adrad etc
You're lucky, your Troopie doesn't have any cooling problems but with cast iron heads and block and fairly old school technology I wouldn't expect a problem. But the current crop of new cars (not just 4x4s) are having problems and the procedures outlined are a necessary part of complete cooling system total care.
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Follow Up By: Member Eric - Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 07:58

Friday, Oct 08, 2004 at 07:58
V8 Troopy . I asked for this info
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