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#80 Cruiser - Radiator water level

Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 11:58

Member - DickyBeach

My '94 #80 LandCruiser (Petrol, Automatic) with 210,000 on the clock, has given me no trouble since I’ve had it. Until now, that is.
This time last year, sitting on 3500rpm @ 120kph and towing a Kimberley Kamper down the bitumen on the way into Monkey Mia, the temperature started to creep up and I found the radiator water level was down. Topped it up and slowed down and had no further problems.
Last week, towing the same KK at the same speed up the Strzelcki I had the same problem. Same thing: top it up and slow down and no more problems.
In both cases the lost water was not in the “overflow” bottle, and I now note apparent signs of a possible water leak at the back of the cylinder head and on the firewall. Conclusion: the radiator (and probably the water pump) are ok and the problem may be either a head gasket on the way out or a cracked head or ???
I don’t normally lose water when driving generally or towing the KK at more modest speeds, and lost zero water when I towed it up the Canning last year at very slow speeds (see post 7590).

Have any other LC80 owners had similar experiences?
In any event I’d appreciate constructive suggestions from any EOZ member. DickyBeach
I want to die while asleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car.
ThreadID: 17499 Replies: 11
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AnswerID: 82722   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 12:28

cruiser replied:

Had the same problem with my 93 petrol/LPG cruiser (243K)

Radiator place next to where I worked did a pressure check and told me what the problem was and when my mechanic had a look, he said they were right.

Turned out to be water leaking water into #6 cylinder.

Had head machined, 2 new valves in #6 and the rest ground and reseated, new headgasket kit - $1600 all up and no more problem until about 8 months later when I wrote the vehicle off (had an arguement with a 5 ton council tipper, and lost)

Hope this helps.

Reply 1 of 11
AnswerID: 82728   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 13:24

Kimberly Kruiser replied:

DickyBeach

Had simular prob with Tojo donk few years ago. Had cooling system thoroughly checked out and all came up ok. Further investigation came up with the worst scenario, crack in cylinder head and dumping water through the exhaust. Probably time to start the elimination process with a radiator centre yourself.
Above mentioned vehicle still in family and going strong four years after having head repaired.

Cheers
Wal
Reply 2 of 11
AnswerID: 82731   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 13:48

Member - Jeff M (WA) replied:

Could also be pin hole leaks inthe top tank, when the system works really hard and starts to heat up you could be losing steam out the top of the radiator. My surf was doing just that.

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Reply 3 of 11
AnswerID: 82733   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 14:25

Peter Guy replied:

the leak could be at the front of the engine but the air from the fan is blowing the water back onto your firewall.
I believe the coollant pressure inside the engine remains constant at any speed so there is no reason for it to leak at high speed compared to lower speed conditions.
The pressure should be in the hoses/radiator therefore I'd be looking more closely at the coolling system.I had a tricky leak on the Patrol where I thought the Head gasket was leaking but luckily for me it was the thermostat holder pipe which had corroded from the out side in under the bottom radiatior hose clamp. The air from the fan was pushing the leaking water along the side of the head!
I hope your leak turns out to be a minor inconvenience.
Reply 4 of 11
FollowupID: 341851   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 21:37

AndrewX posted:

Partly corect Peter. It's the maximum pressure that remains constant as it's controlled by the pressure exerted by the radiator cap. When the engine is cold and not running the pressure is zero and as it warms it increases to the maximum allowed by the cap. It's not possible for the pressure in the hoses/radiator to be higher than in the engine, however. They all contain the same body of water and the pressure in the system will always be distributed evenly - provided of course that the thermostat is operating correctly. If the thermostat is jamming closed a build up of pressure could occur in the engine block I think.
FollowUp 1 of 2
FollowupID: 341872   Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 03, 2004 at 06:42

Stew53 posted:

There are two forms of presure in an engine cooling system, there is circulation pressure and the static presure that everybody is aware of ie the 10-15 psi generated by the radiator cap, the circulation presure is generated by the water pump and is found in the block up to the thermostat, this presure is around the 30-40 psi depending on the engine and the revs the engine is going.
Stew
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AnswerID: 82740   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 15:54

Coops (Pilbara) replied:

as a preliminary - try replacing the radiator cap.
I had a similar problem not lonmg ago and this is all I did to rectify.
Not saying it will fix your issue but for $10 I now replace my cap every year

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Reply 5 of 11
AnswerID: 82747   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 16:49

Member - DickyBeach replied:

Thanks everybody for the speedy and sensible suggestions.
I'll submit a post in due course and let you know what I discover.
DickyBeach
I want to die while asleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car.
Reply 6 of 11
AnswerID: 82786   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 20:21

MichaelR replied:

Had a similar problem on my 80 series at 250000km and turned out to be a small hole in one of the radiator tubes. The 80 series radiators, and probably others, tend to crack the side, rather than the centrally positioned tubes, because of flexing and wear. The hole is often small and difficult to spot. It certainly leaked more at higher speeds and I don't know why. I repaired the leak but a new one developed so if this is your problem I would suggest a new radiator. It doesn't seem financially worthwhile replacing the core of the old one and it is a good opportunity to rid yourself of the plastic top and bottom tanks and get a metal one. About $350 if you do it yourself. A bit of a bugger of a job though.
Reply 7 of 11
AnswerID: 82796   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 21:08

Member - DOZER replied:

Well documented problems with the heater hose that comes off the back of the passenger side of the head, hard to get to, look for white residue or bulging hose...take to a mechnic you dont like...lol
Best seen from inside passenger front wheel well.
Andrew

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Reply 8 of 11
AnswerID: 82835   Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 02, 2004 at 23:13

Brian B (QLD) replied:

Howdy,

My son has an 80 series and he had the same problem as Dozer talks about in his reply. It was a dud section of heater hose which is situated at the rear of the engine close to the firewall. It was diffcult to access but once he got it the problem was sorted.

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Reply 9 of 11
AnswerID: 82868   Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 03, 2004 at 10:14

Schevchenko replied:

which dicky beach are you anyway? sunshine coast?
Reply 10 of 11
AnswerID: 82880   Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 03, 2004 at 11:49

Member - Karl replied:

Hey Dicky, isn't the speed limit along that road 110 Kph and if towing (in WA) it is 100 kph - not 120 kph - lucky you didn't get caught, saw a few who did when we were there recently.
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Reply 11 of 11

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