AnswerID: 99174 Submitted: Sunday, Feb 20, 2005 at 17:48
I disagree with the pay for what you get here, particularly when its got anything with ARB or Pirhana written on it. Check your prices and shop
around. There are plenty of good supplier/manufacturers out there. Some suggest redarc as a good isolator
($100). Buy your mounting system, which no doubt will be a pirhana battery tray or similar, then look at the battery isolator
and ECU protection system.
I currently have an old rotronics unit, that Pirahana tried to tell me didn't have any spike protection. If I had followed their advice I should remove it immediately and install one of their systems for a little over $300. What a bargin - not. Rang Rotronics, and was assured that my unit did have spike protection.
I am looking at a similar system for another vehicle at the moment - check out this website as they seem to offer good value for money:
Do some research on which type of battery you want to go for. It will depend on how you want to use it as to the type you get. (as well as how much you want to spend). If you plan to flaten a battery quite often, then look at a deep cycle, AGM or Calcium. Some on this site will tell you you only should use a starting battery due to the quicker re-charge time.
Do'nt be afraid to do it yourself. A cheap soldering Iron is $20, cables $40(max) Battery $150-200, isolator
$140, battery tray $100 - before you know it you have done the job yourself for under $500. Thats a lot of change out of $1000 and best of all you will know your vehicle a whole lot better than you did before you started.
Search the archives of this site, and others and you will find more than enough info required to have a go.
Reply 3 of 13
FollowupID: 357504 Submitted:
Sunday, Feb 20, 2005 at 18:44
Inclined to agree as well, but the warranty is there:-)
Here is a good Battery Info site. http://www.batteryfaq.org/
which will provide for a greater understanding of batteries.
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FollowupID: 357571 Submitted:
Sunday, Feb 20, 2005 at 22:21
Hi The reason I said ARB etc is we live in Yeppoon. Not much choice around here. Also all the wiring is 6 and 8 g-/mm whatever.and it's all run through conduit sleeving in and under chassis.Which is more than I'm probably capable. or interested in doing.what I'm saying is, It's done properly for a reasonable price. which is a lot better and safer than I'm capable of doing I'm an ex dragline driver,not a sparkie. ten thumbs when it comes to electrics.The Exide extreme is for the winch as well as freezer. I have 4 on yacht with solar, and 3 1/2 + years down the track. starting diesel and running all electrics inc, waeco. they still good. Very good value for money ,they're starting and deep cycle combined,which is why I suggested them.they're also a fair bit cheaper than some of the fancy ones.One of my mates has a Land Rover lwb. with 1x 80 watt and 1x 60 watt panel on roof rack,they hinge up for loading underneath. combined with 2 Exides in back of car,and they run his 120 ltr waeco all the time It's a completely seperate system.He does have a wire going from car batt to batt's and neg to earth, with an isolator
sw.For cloudy weeks.Slightly off subject, but with second hand solar panels, a viable alternative, maybe.and no fancy electronics with wiring all over the car. I bought the 2 x40 watters I have second hand for $100 each.Plus $40 on Ebay for regulator.They give me up to 4 1/2 + amps on an av, day and run the 80 ltr.+ feed a bit spare into the batteries too.But we do live in Q'land and N.T. all year round.So plenty of U.V.
It's just another thought in what can be a fairly complex subject.
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