Steve replied:

Justin : sounds like you have a tyre problem, you dont say where you are! but suggest you take it to a specialist tyre shop (Tyrepower ? ) and see if the tyres are 'separating' or have any bad damage / bumps in them... wheel balancing off the car (on the machine) will not always show the problem! What sort of tyres are they ?

Member - Mal replied:

Justinb, My daughter had a nissan patrol (I still haven't forgiven her) that had a similar (and many other) problem. After many hours and dollars a bloke reckoned it was the steering damper. I thought this unlikely but replaced it anyway and "voila", that was it. It was almost as good as a Toyota. Give it a go! Good luck, Mal T.

Member - Mal replied:

Justinb, it fixed my daughter's problem that sounds the same as yours. ARB sell them for $107 and fit for $28 = $135. Anyway, pull off one end and give it a shove and a pull. there should be equal resistance in both directions and the faster you push/pull the greater the resistance. Mal T.

Truckster replied:

The wheels are not round, I would say that is your problem..

Imagine how rough it would be driving down the road on boxes... Same effect.

Truckster replied:

Fix one problem at a time. Then you will know what the problem is.

You have been told the wheels (or tires?) are cactus. Fix that, and you may be looking for somethign that isnt there. Meaning once the wheels are sorted out and probably wheelbearings by now stating the shaking that is happening...

Where do you live?? What state are you in?? If in Melbourne, call Alan at Outback Accessories in Seaford, he does all the work on my truck, and its well and truly not standard :-D Nothin but 100% good stories from the people Ive sent to him for work..

Truckster replied:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4wd_out_of_brisbane/

Theres LOTS of good people on this list that will point you in the right direction.

mudgutz replied:

mmm could be the wheels .....fix them first....second put a new steering damper in it.......if its still doing it ....its gotta be the kingpin bearings at 190000 kms its a good chance it is as mine lasted 230000
the easiest way to find out if its the kingpins is to jack up the front so as the wheels are off the ground and grab the wheel top and bottom as in 12 and 6 on a clock......try and move the wheel by pulling the top towards you and the bottom away and vica versa if you feel any movement at all its these bearings if you get to find its the kingpin bearings a good tip is to do the axle seals and the wheel bearings and fibre washers whilst your in there...a kit is available it cost me 138 bucks for the kit ......but its a prick of a job ..dirty and takes a good six hours have plenti of solvent for washing the parts on hand youll also need graphite grease for the cvs and htb grease...when puttin it back together dont be afraid to fill the thing right up with grease as it helps keep the water out of that very exxy$$$$$ front diff housing
my two bobs worth
mudgutz 75 series trooper

johnsy replied:

had trouble with khumos before and they were out of round. jack each wheel so its just touching the ground and see if there is even pressure to turn the wheel also stand a large socket with a extension in it on the side of the tyre nearly touching and see if the gap is equal when rotated that will help determine how true your tyres are. cya johnsy

Bob Y. replied:

justinb, Pretty scarey happenings, and while I agree with Mudgutz, you might want to check the adjustable tie-rod ends. We had a 60 series that got the wobbles, scared hell out of mum in law, that sound similar to yours. It turned out to be those joints, you'll need to replace the cups, springs, and probably the ball that bolts into the arm/rods. They may only need adjusting too. If I'm off the mark, then go Mudgutz way, and do the King pins. The older 45's used to break the studs holding the steering arms, when the king pin brgs collapsed, and the lose of steering, at 80 clicks, could give you a buzz. As for the kingpins, I'd recommend they get greased every 10K clicks. Catch you later....

royce replied:

My first thought was steering damper. Off round wheels sound bad. Have you rotated them. Swap front for back. If the wheels are the problem, you should notice something. Sound dangerous!! cheers Royce

Derek replied:

Justin. Find a mate who has similar wheels and swap them and see if the problem goes away. I agree with the comments about the steering dampener. Next check loose wheel bearings, loose/worn trunion bearings, worn tie rod ends, loose steering box, worn internals of steering box and lastly, seeing as you said the car rocks from side to side, what are the state of the front shockies? Try Fulcrum Suspension at Coopers Plains or The Bump Shop at Eagle Farm or Bob Gears at Northgate. It could be that there are several things causing your troubles.

Ferret replied:

Greetings, a mate had a heap of trouble with a 75 troopie and spent a small fortune trying to fix it following "Expert" advice. Turned out to be a couple of bucks worth of suspension bushes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

andy replied:

This might sound strange but check your tailshaft nuts on the u bolts. Loose ubolts nuts caused a similar symptom in a 93 troopy. Also check the front and rear bushes on the springs, sway bars and tie rods etc. If the car has been near the sea air or used for heavy towing the wear on these parts will have increased. And make sure that the front hubs are on "Free" when on the tar. Andy

mudgutz replied:

bleep ....ive read all the replys and had a good think about it.......its not the bushes ......they clunk .......its not the shockies ...they only wobble under braking its gotta be the bearings ...do what i said and youll get it right.......im confident ......if not bring the sod round to my joint and we will fix/ burn it together.......good luck ....mudgutz

glenn replied:

king pins and drag link adjustment mate.try steering damper and wheel bearings,tighten steering bix and u should be right. been a 4wd mech for last 20 yrs and nothing we cant fix mate,let me know how you go

Les replied:

I think before you start spending too much money Justin, drop into a panel beaters and see if it's been in a good prang, sounds like a chassis problem to me....good luck....Les

Benau replied:

justin I have spent the last 5 years working on 75 series amongst other toyotas both in the mines and in a country dealer. high speed wobble can be caused by a number of things from worn shackle rubers to worn springs where the leaves walk side to side or even loose "u" bolts. (front and rear)The steering the dampner is used to prevent a light steering wheel at speed and prevent it turning violently when you hit a rock etc. other possible causes are wear in the steering linkages or the steering box check underside of box for leaks. the king pin bearings should deffinately be suspected if there is an mix of oil and grease or diff oil leaking form the steering knuckles, this would only be seen of course if the diff still has oil in it. all toyota "live axle" front ends weat the king pins in the straight ahead position so play might only be felt in a jacked up wheel at straight ahead then theres the wheel bearings, the front and rear bearings in a cruiser are adjustable a loose rear hub will cause a violent wobble. as will a bent rim or distorted tyre if you still havent found it then the chassis is probably twisted, This is not a order of diagnosis just a list of possible causes, have fun

Rossco replied:

I had severe wheel wobble etc at speed in my 75 troopy earlier in the year. I checked everything out and found the main problem was the shockies. I replaced them and problem solved. It may not be your problem but it does not take to much effort to whip them off and test them out. Cheers

Bob Y. replied:

justinb, With all the advice you've received over the last few days, it's going to cost you a fortune to fix everything, so give the '75 the ol' flick pass and buy something else that doesn't get the wobbles. I hope you let us know what the final outcome is, I'm going to be redfaced if it's not the tie-rod ends or king pins! Lively thread, eh? Regards

colin replied:

Justin, you havent said whether you are running split rims or solid. If they are split see if the locking bead is not seated in the right position, ie the split opposite the valve stem, also look at the tube, inside the tyres and the rubber sleeve. try putting the rear wheels on the front, also look at the pressures the tyres are set at. The way the tread is wearing can give a good insight into how the mechanics of the vechicle are, ie worn bearings king pins etc. I also live in brissy and have some tyres and rims that you can try. My email is kiwicol@optusnet.com.au Experince has shown me to take the cheapest and least logical path first. Regards Col

justinb replied:

Ok, here's some feedback about my problem with the wobble. I had the tyres swapped front and back. Also, one the rims was quite badly damaged, so it was moved from the front left to the back left. Also one of the tyres are not perfectly round (as mentioned earlier) and this was moved to the back too.

The result? Haven't had the wobble since and I have driven it a fair bit to try and 'make' it happen. The truck still gets an odd vibration at about 90 km's p/h which goes away if you keep accelerating, so maybe the kingpin bearings do need looking at.

However, the important thing is that the wobble seems to have disappeared - when I can afford it I'll replace both tyres and rims (Khumo and Sunraysia cheap crap at the moment). Anyway, thanks for your help on this one everyone, much appreciated!

Cheers
Justin