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-methods of CHARGING your AUX BATTERY, your thoughts-

Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 10:51

Mainey (WA)



This is an invitation to post your ideas, as the objective of this “Aux battery” thread is to create interest for the people who presently don’t use a Dual Battery System
those who are having problems maintaining their system fully charged
those who are presently considering a DBS and seeking new ideas

I encourage persons with either; actual user experience or some technical knowledge
to share ideas about their Aux Battery System
how they charge it
how long it lasts between charges
what accessories are powered from it.
* * * * * * * *

I’ve read the interesting posts on charging with a 240v mains charger via an inverter, I believe it will suit the people who travel a lot of the time on their holiday, but for those who stop for a week or so at the same place will have to either run the engine for some (considerable) time OR get another method, maybe a generator :-(

My own method is; … SOLAR
Reason being, because I camp at the same place for many weeks at a time
but I'm aware it will not suite everyone !
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AnswerID: 123126   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 12:59

dublediff replied:

Mainey, I have a very simple system for charging my battery in my golf camper trailer. I have a standard heavy duty wet cell in the trailer. It is used to run my 12 volt flouros and occasionally charge up the laptop. My needs are minimal when there is no 240 volt, the fridge is a 3 way one so it runs on gas. This battery is wired to the car charging sytem, no solenoid, just good quality 6mm cabling and one of the those 12 way flat tralier plugs. This supplies lighting for up to 7 days (nights) on the Murray each year. When touring over several weeks I still prefer to use the 12 flouros for lighting - the drive between locations seems to top up the battery. I have a voltmeter in line and it allows me to keep an eye on its progress. I know many will poo poo my simple method, but this battery is now 5 years old and it still in top condition. When not travelling it is connected up to a battery conditioner all the time. I have once had to "boil" the battery with a three stage battery charger after leaving it to run the frige for a couple of days (probably only lasted 4 or 5 hours) while the van was stored. It's a kiss system. lol.
Reply 1 of 13
AnswerID: 123128   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 13:09

graeme1951 replied:

I have a pop top with 2x 64watt UniSolar panels mounted on top running to the battery located in the caravan boot through a 20watt regulator. I also run a 39 litre Engel on freeze and never have a problem up camping up north. Camping in the south is another thing with our main camping spot in the hills only receiving sun from about 10.00am to 2.00pm. The only problem I encounter is if the caravan battery is not isolated when driving, the 10amp fuse holder between the caravan battery and the caravan wiring is extremely hot. I am investigating running heavy guage wire back from the 2nd car battery via an anderson plug but as the wiring is all jointed under the van and then runs to various parts of the van I am still trying to find the correct method.
Reply 2 of 13
AnswerID: 123131   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 13:18

bundyman replied:

Good idea Mainey. Here's my personal experience.

I have owned 2 HZJ75 Series utes both with duel battery setups. Both set ups used one starter and one deep cycle. Both of the wet cell type.

The first ute I set up a "samrt charge system". It was not a big brand version but did place initial chrage into starter battery before joining batteries into paralel until the key was turned off at which point it would isolate starter battery. Appeared to work well while I had that vehicle (somebleepstole it). Only thing I didn't like was that you never really knew what was going on with the batteries. You just had to hope that it did its job and in the morning or the following day you could start the vehicle when the key was turned.

In my replacement ute I put in a simple Marine battery switch setup. Cost stuff all to set up. If say I've been camping over night with fridge and lights running from deep cycle battery (pos2) I simply start the vehicle from the starter batt. (pos1)and leave switch in Pos 1 for minimum of 20 minutes (depends on what length of driving I'm about to do) and then switch to Pos 2 for majority of trip until I know I will be stopping. Once I stop I have the habit of turning the batt selector straight to pos1 ready for me to start vehicle when I get back in. I have never had to use pos 1+2 yet. I never charge in pos 1+2 either.

Some say this system might be time consuming or take to much "human input". It works for me. I know exactly batt is being charged, what voltage is in it and can select what ever choice/combination of batt I want all by just turning the dial. No computers/electronics to fail. Because with this system the 2 batteries are never put into parallel (unless you use pos 1+2) then it rids all the problems of "diferent types of batteries" "joining batteries of different voltages" "slow charging" etc etc.

The one catch is that yes you have to be on the ball and remember to change the position switch. But its not that critical, if after you stop you run the fridge/lights from the starter batt before you remember to change to pos 2....... Hell in the event that you went all night on the starter and in the morning it didin't have enough juice to start the vehicle then simply switch to pos 2 (which has been isolated all night) and start it. Believe me it works.

Anyway my 2 cents worth.

Cheers,
Hughesy
Reply 3 of 13
FollowupID: 378250   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 17:01

Member - Alan posted:

Good comment Bundyman and I certainly can relate to that with the Smart solenoid set up.

"Only thing I didn't like was that you never really knew what was going on with the batteries. You just had to hope that it did its job and in the morning or the following day you could start the vehicle when the key was turned."

I was recently camped in Bell Gorge off the GRR and turned the key in the morning and ........... nothing!
I got that sinking feeling alright and to my never ending shame had to get a jump start from a passing hired Tojo! But was really very pleased about it anyway. Thanks to that bloke and his girl.

However, to their credit the installers rewired it with no fuss, but the story doesn't end there as the vehicle really stunk of rotten eggs.

At first I thought the evil stink was a passing vehicle but it got stronger as a couple of days went by. So I pulled the plug on the accessory battery which is installed in the rear of the vehicle and the stink went.

Back to ARB and they replaced the battery and did another rewire job and everything now seems to be running OK.
Apparently the way it had been wired meant the 2nd battery never received a charge in the nearly 2 years it was installed (no way of checking) and when it was rewired the sudden charge caused it to collapse or something and it looked like it was boiling inside while stinking me out!
I'm toying with the idea of a complete rejig to get something where I can see what battery is in what condition so will watch this thread with interest.
Alan H.
FollowUp 1 of 2
FollowupID: 378289   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 21:00

Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) posted:

yep the old cole hersy switch. as part of your prestart you start it on individual batterys. if a battery goes dead you isolate it so it doesnt theive charge from the good battery. Have had and used this system and the solonoid system with the cole hersy running rings around using a solonoid as the first you know you have a stuffed battery is neither one works and you are still stuffed.
same old story might not be fancy or the latest and greatest - but it just works
you dont need to leave perth to go bush
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You dont need to leave Perth to go bush
FollowUp 2 of 2
AnswerID: 123197   Submitted: Monday, Aug 01, 2005 at 19:16

Jimbo replied:

Mainey,

No surprise, it's solar for me.

I've had great results from it so far and have posted my results.

We're going camping this weekend for two nights. This will be the first time I will give it a workout in the Melbourne Winter. I'll post the results next Monday.

Cheers,

Jim.
Reply 4 of 13
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AnswerID: 123344   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 14:10

Member - Collyn R (WA) replied:

May I suggest that, if using a basic master switch that isolates the 'second' battery from the charging system - to set it up such that an LED warning light comes on when in that position. (The LED only _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx a few thousands of an amp). This eliminates the risk of forgetting to set it back again to charge.

Re solenoid switching, be wary of simple solenoids that operate immediately the ignition is switched on. There, there is a risk of the starter battery discharging into a deeply-discharged house battery in the event the ignition is turned on but the engine is not started immediately - if for example you turn the key but then note a king brown heading your way.

There is also a real risk of the starter battery being flattened in the event that a large load (such as a microwave oven) is switched on before the starter battery is up to charge. (The latter normally takes only 1-2 minutes).

To avoid these situations it is safer to use a voltage sensing relay (such as the Redarc). This gives the starting battery automatic charging priority.

This is especially true if using an AGM second battery because AGM's very high charge acceptance may 'starve' the starter battery.

Most interesting thread!

I totally support the alternator charging charging plus solar approach where demand applies - but if there's ample space for solar modules and demand is light then solar alone is much simpler and works just fine.

My OKA has been set ujp like this since 1996 - and has not once run out of 12-volt power. I describe this method in some of my writings.
Collyn Rivers
Collyn
"The problem is not so much what people don't know - it's what they think they know that simply isn't true."
Ample Power Company, USA
Reply 5 of 13
AnswerID: 123350   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 14:34

flappa replied:

My setup.

As its almost impossible to run a dual batt system on my Petrol Patrol , my dual batt is on the trailer.

Twin 6mm cable from starter battery to redarc isolator , then to the rear of the Patrol , to Anderson plug , onto the Trailer Battery.

The Battery is a Marshall Batteries 55 amp hour Deep Cycle.

I can run my Fridge and several Halogen lights for 2 days. It then runs out of puff.

As I dont have a 3 stage charger , and the battery is mostly charged by either a cheap charger or altenator , I'm not doing the battery any favours , but , its not really big enough capacity.

I'm about to change to a large cranking battery so it can be charged by the Altenator properly when moving. This should give me 2 to 3 days easily.
Reply 6 of 13
FollowupID: 378438   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 18:11

Jimbo posted:

Flappa,

You might consider an AGM in preference to a crank batt. They charge very quickly from the alternator, will tolerate deeper discharging and are genuine deep cycle. You can pick up a Remco 100 amp for about $200 which is not a lot more than a good cranker.

Cheers,

Jim.
FollowUp 1 of 13
FollowupID: 378547   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 11:06

flappa posted:

Any idea where ?

The cheapest AGM I could find was a round the $300 mark ?

Partly the reason for looking at the cranking batteries was cost , and whether I wanted to go dual batts on the CT.
FollowUp 2 of 13
FollowupID: 378601   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 15:39

Mainey (WA) posted:

Flappa,
My suggestion, do NOT to use a Cranking battery as a Deep Cycle battery:-(

I agree with Jimbo’s suggestion as to an AGM battery, as I believe they are presently the ultimate battery design, and can be designed specifically as a Deep Cycle battery with quick recharge capability, second best would have to be a calcium DC battery, and also remember that not all AGM batteries are Deep Cycle batteries, as AGM is only a manufacturing technique, eg, both Deep Cycle and also Cranking batteries can be manufactured using AGM methodology.

I don't believe I have ever read anywhere, where a battery manufacturer recommends that a Cranking battery SHOULD be used as the power source for a high drain item, fridge etc.
They all recommend accessories that have large power drain on a battery should be powered by a Deep Cycle battery that can be deep cycled continuously.

Oils ain’t oils, and batteries just ain’t batteries :-)
FollowUp 3 of 13
FollowupID: 378644   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 18:14

Jimbo posted:

Flappa,

Whitworth's (boat suppliers) do the Remco for $229. Also try Fullriver batteries. Contact a Battery World outlet and bargain.

Cheers,

Jim.
FollowUp 4 of 13
FollowupID: 378734   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 09:25

flappa posted:

They never have Mainey , and never said they did. Plenty of folks do though , and for my intended use , would fullfill that need.

I only use it 3 or 4 times a year. I can pay $130 for a cranking battery , and if I get a couple of years out of it . . . good enough for me.

I dont see any point in paying large sums of $$$ for either DC or an AGM when I wont get full use out of it , given the number of times it gets used , and the lack of attention the battery will get.

If I can pick up an AGM battery at a reasonable price , then yes , I WILL probably go that way , but , as I mentioned , the price , at this stage , didn't appeal to me.

Thanks Jimbo. No Whitworths near me (Canberra) , but Battery World is here.
FollowUp 5 of 13
FollowupID: 378739   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 10:03

Redback posted:

Graeme i've sent a PM on OL.

Baz.
FollowUp 6 of 13
FollowupID: 378768   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 11:52

Mainey (WA) posted:

Flappa,
Your present battery is a 55 amp A/h Deep Cycle and you can run your Fridge and several Halogen lights for 2 days, that’s a good performing battery and due solely to its manufacturing specifications.

You say you are prepared to spend $130 on a ‘large cranker battery’ I only pay $137 for my Delkor 80 A/h deep Cycle batteries and they are NZ70 in physical size but they are over 45% larger in Amp Hour capacity, so you would last at least an extra day if not more than your present battery, I venture to say you will *never* get that type of performance from any cranker battery, no matter how large you go in size, and you will have no extra recharging problems with only one DC battery that is 45% larger than your present DC battery :-)
FollowUp 7 of 13
FollowupID: 378788   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 13:53

flappa posted:

Thanks Mainey.

Just had a chat to a battery bloke. He thinks a 100a/h DC (cant remember brand) would be a better choice , even with my ordinary battery maintainence. I think he quoted about $170.

He thinks provided the wiring is up to it (which I need to recheck) , it should get a decent charge from the vehicle , that 3 days should be easy with the right conditions.

Having a rethink , and I'll probably head that way.

I just dont think I can justify an AGM for the money , and for my bad charging methods . . . yet.
FollowUp 8 of 13
FollowupID: 378820   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 17:37

Mainey (WA) posted:

Flappa,
Welcome to the powerful world of genuine Deep Cycle battery power, really good to see you "have seen the DC light" you will never look back.

I was only using an 80 A/h Delkor Deep Cycle battery as a comparison simply because they are about the same price as you were prepared to spend, not because of battery capacity, and yes, 120 A/H is even better than 100, but where do you draw the line in the size of the battery capacity, how much is too much :-)
As to the brand, I suppose he has it in stock?

A small secret, keep it between us; the weight of the battery is indirectly linked to the Amp Hours with DC batteries of same design, so expect to be a heavy battery, at least 28 to 30 plus kilo, whereby a HD cranker N70Z size is only about 22 to 25 kilo, this is due to the much thicker lead/alloy plates used in DC batteries to give them their ongoing deep cycling ability.
FollowUp 9 of 13
FollowupID: 378891   Submitted: Friday, Aug 05, 2005 at 09:35

flappa posted:

I was actually more interested in the physical size of the battery.

It just happened to be that the 100a/h is a better fit for where I want it to go.

120ah was quite a bit larger.

I'm prepared for the extra weight of it , so that isn't a great concern.

I was actually quite impressed by the knowledge of this guy. I spoke to him for about 40 mins. Never sensed one piece of BS , gave me a heap of options , and said he would sell me whatever I thought was needed , no hard sell.
FollowUp 10 of 13
FollowupID: 378896   Submitted: Friday, Aug 05, 2005 at 10:05

Mainey (WA) posted:

(QUOTE)I was actually quite impressed by the knowledge of this guy. I spoke to him for about 40 mins(end quote) I feel really distressed, you have gained so much information that has impressed you in 40 mins regarding the many and various benefits of Deep Cycle batteries over Cranking batteries for powering your fridge, and from someone not even here on the forum :-)
good to see you have now been shown the way….what battery is it?
FollowUp 11 of 13
FollowupID: 378900   Submitted: Friday, Aug 05, 2005 at 10:20

flappa posted:

Quote: I feel really distressed, you have gained so much information that has impressed you in 40 mins regarding the many and various benefits of Deep Cycle batteries over Cranking batteries for powering your fridge, and from someone not even here on the forum :-)
good to see you have now been shown the way….what battery is it?

No actually , it was BECAUSE of all the advice I HAVE recieved , that I felt confident , that this bloke was on the level and not just a salesman.

Basically , my ONLY question mark on a DC batt , was my ability to charge it properly , and maintain it.

He said , my situation ISN'T ideal , but yes it will work.

So after reading what everone else has said , and seeing how this guy seemed good , the decision to buy a DC seems reasonable.

Haven't got the batt yet , probably go tomorrow , still cant recall battery brand.
FollowUp 12 of 13
FollowupID: 381950   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 15:31

Truckster (Vic) posted:

Why is it almost impossible to run dual batteries no a Petrol patrol?
FollowUp 13 of 13
AnswerID: 123883   Submitted: Thursday, Aug 04, 2005 at 21:59

cmilton54 replied:

I use solidnoids on my system for charging second battery but have it activated on engine running only. Engine stops solidnoid shut down. on new prado have installed rediarc, interesting to see how it goes compared to last 2 setups that I had in previous vehicles
Cheers
Charlie
Reply 7 of 13
AnswerID: 127427   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 13:16

NikNoff replied:

On previous vehicle [97TD cruiser] i used 2 x 700cca overlanders through a 150amp solonoid, system worked ok running a 60lt engel but i think it could have been better.

My new vehicle [100TD cruiser] will have 2 x 40lt engels [the thinking is combined they use slightly less amps than the old 60lt and gives me options of using one/both/fridge/freezer etc] I intend using a Redarc VSR and a AGM battery around 120ah [brand unsure] for the Aux and high CCA battery for starter. Looking at a 3 stage battery charger, CTEK or the new REDARC smart charger that Collyn mentioned and running that off my Honda genny as required, if funds permit i will get a 120w solar to supplement.
Reply 8 of 13
AnswerID: 127431   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 13:27

Truckster (Vic) replied:

few in our club go with the christie system
http://www.christieengineering.com.au/

works very well
Reply 9 of 13
AnswerID: 127452   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 15:25

Alloy c/t replied:

80 series turbo diesel auto ,standard alternator , 80amp hr Fullriver AGM as start batt , AUX batt 80amp Fullriver AGM through Rotronics weekender RA100H , 8mmsq +and - wire from aux to 50amp anderson at rear of vehicle , also 3x waeco style +1 engle style socket feed thru separate fuse/s from same wire ,,,,,,anderson plug to camper trailer feeding 3x 80amp hr Fullriver AGM batts supplying 3x3 banks of waeco style sockets ,,, ,,, 1x64 UNISOLAR +1x 120 KYOCERA solar panels free standing up to 30mtr from camp thru 8mmsq cable to Steca 2020 controller to anderson plug ,, Scorpion 950 2stroke generator + CTEC XS7000 charger for when the sun dosnt want to play ,,,,,,, USAGE = 1X 80LT Waeco fridge/freezer set to run at -10 in freezer and 3-4 in fridge ,, 1x 15lt Engle set to run at 2-3deg for beer ,, up to 5x 12v fluro , occasional cd/radio used for weather reports ,, have never run out of power "yet" ,,always leave home with batts fully charged and always get home with batts fully charged , works for me.
Reply 10 of 13
FollowupID: 381970   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 17:11

Mainey (WA) posted:

Alloy, are you prepared to stick your neck out a little bit and "suggest" why your system works as well as it does, said nicely :-)

Would it be the Fullriver AGM batteries? (because they have rapid recharge times, and are very suitable to be used with solar systems)

The 184Wt Solar system? (because they constantly recharge the AGM's at probably close to similar amps to what you use daily)

The generator? (because you use it 'when the sun don't shine' - hopefully never gets any use at all)

Your Steca solar reg will give you the relevant information as; amps in and out totals.

Mainey....
FollowUp 1 of 3
FollowupID: 381987   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 17:46

Alloy c/t posted:

Mainey , I'll so called stick my neck out and not only suggest but stand up and be counted ,, AGM batts ,be they fullriver or any other brand do the "job" better than deepcycle and /or starting batts , run them down /charge them up / no bull involved ,good enough for NASA to go into space is good enough to go camping anywhere , solar panels because of ease/price/quite and restrictions of gen sets in some areas , ,,,, Steca for the fact I can tell exactly how much power in and more importantly used in any given time frame [my choice] , ,,,,, 8mmsq wire on all = NIL voltage drop , I solder + crimp ALL of my connections myself ,, I refuse to drink hot beer ,so the Waeco for swmbo+child /food ect , baby Engle for drinks ,,, gen set and charger are now used only "if" needed , can charge batts quicker by running lead to c/t anderson plug from vehicle anderson plug and just starting vehicle and idle for20/30 min = fully charged ,as said works for me.
FollowUp 2 of 3
FollowupID: 381999   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 18:25

Jimbo posted:

Agree with alloy on the ability to charge AGM's from the car.

My 64 watt Uni Solar does the trick nicely when the sun's out. A couple of weeks ago when we went camping in the cold and overcast I just idled the car a couple of times to keep power up to the battery.

For this reason I wouldn't bother with a generator when I've got an alternator under the bonnet which will do a better job.

I've found in my testing that the AGM absorbs about an amp per minute from the alternator. I've also found that if the weather is so bad my panel isn't working, then the fridge isn't drawing much power. I'd say 20 to 30 amps max in a 24 hour period. Thus idling the car for 15 minutes in the morning and again at night will do the trick.

Last November, before I got my panel I went away for 5 days and the temp varied from 25 to 35. I got by running the Waeco 80 by idling the car 3 or 4 times a day. It did work but got to be a pain. Hence I invested in a panel.

This is the BIG advantage of an AGM battery.

Cheers,

Jim.
FollowUp 3 of 3
AnswerID: 127518   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 19:58

Mainey (WA) replied:

* * * * It’s good to read so many positive responsive * * * *

When you read my original opening statement it can be assertained that's what I wanted from guy’s and girls that have aux battery systems that they themselves use, have tested even to some small degree and know they work because they actively use them without problems!

The various reviews for the AGM batteries are good to see as even though I don’t use them, when my Delkors eventually die AGM’s are my replacement batteries of choice simply due to their technical features which give them the ability to accept a solar charge far quicker than a Wet DC battery.
Is a pity they were not so prevalent four years ago, but that is what technology is all about… change and technical improvements with the change!

Mainey....

Reply 11 of 13
FollowupID: 382044   Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 22:05

Jimbo posted:

Well said old son.

The way technology moves, AGM's may be "old hat" when your Delkor's die.

Four years ago when we had a 38 foot houseboat, we replaced the "house" batteries with wet cell DC's because we didn't know any different. My brother got a good deal on them and we thought that was great. If only I'd known about AGM's then.
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 127593   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005 at 10:09

Mike DiD replied:

Jimbo wrote -
"I've found in my testing that the AGM absorbs about an amp per minute from the alternator. "

I assume you mean 1 AmpHour per minute which means it is taking 60 Amps. This seems to be the charging current for a discharged AGM, although I haven't seen too many actual test measurements !!!

What size and brand is your AGM ?

What voltage does your Alternator put out ?

The Charging graphs for this AGM http://www.absorbedpower.com/battery/pdf/AP-GT12-100C-01Sep05.pdf
make it clear that you can charge it fully even if the Alternator is only putting out 13.8volts.
Reply 12 of 13
FollowupID: 382205   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005 at 16:52

Alloy c/t posted:

Pretty sure that Jimbo has a 100amp hr Lifeline AGM and a stock altenator in the Terracan ,, mine is a stock 80series toyota altenator ,volts =14.40 at idle., AGM,s all 5 are Fullriver 80amp ..
FollowUp 1 of 2
FollowupID: 382247   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005 at 20:37

Jimbo posted:

Mike,

Yes, it's a Lifleine 100 amp. Terracan alternator is a 130 amp job, although I doubt it puts out quite that at idle.

My testing is based on voltage readings (after letting the batt settle for at least two hours). The amp per minute (60 amps/hr) was from 70% charged to 90% charged.

I would dispute the theory that an AGM will charge properly at 13.8 volts. I had a problem with a lead from my alternator a while back and was only getting 13.7 to 13.8. It charged, but not quickly. It will eventually charge, but not at 60 amps/hr.

They seem to like 14.1 to 14.2 volts according to the bloke from Federal Batteries. I've been advised to set my Projecta 2 stage battery charge contoller (when charging at home) to the "Gel" setting which puts out 14.1, opposed to the "Lead Acid" setting which delivers 14.4.

Having said all that, the best reading I get from it in the car is 12.78 volts. If I charge it at home it gets to 12.90 and will sit at that, off charge, for weeks. Ipso facto, it doesn't get 100% charge from the alternator; probably 98%.

Cheers,

Jim.
FollowUp 2 of 2
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AnswerID: 127695   Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005 at 22:36

Mike DiD replied:

Jimbo

"Having said all that, the best reading I get from it in the car is 12.78 volts"

- is it the Auxiliary battery connected via an Isolator ?
- are any loads conected to it at all in the car ?
Reply 13 of 13
FollowupID: 382295   Submitted: Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 07:39

Jimbo posted:

Mike

1. Redarc Isolator
2. No.
FollowUp 1 of 1

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