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Custom built radiators

Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 20:28

markp

Hi there,

I would like to hear from anyone who has spent hours mucking around with a V8 in a Hilux. I have had one in mine for 2yrs or so now, I am not a revhead, just a Hilux enthusiast that needed to be able to pull more than the skin off a rice pudding! After numerous experiments (you name it, I have tried it!), I have narrowed down an overheating problem to not enough surface area with the radiator. I am going to get a custom made radiator which has more surface area that will fit in the limited space available. I have a couple of contacts in my local area who could do it, but just wondering if anyone out there has had to do a similar thing, and if there are any tips I can pick up?
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AnswerID: 132724   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 20:38

Truckster (Vic) replied:

lots of luxs go with a rear mounted radiator...

www.outerlimits4x4.com have a look in the yota section
Reply 1 of 13
AnswerID: 132731   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 21:23

Sarg replied:

Aluminium dual pass
Reply 2 of 13
FollowupID: 387054   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:14

markp posted:

From where?
Any radiator bloke who knows his stuff?
FollowUp 1 of 4
FollowupID: 387060   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:25

Sarg posted:

Depends what part of the country that you are in
FollowUp 2 of 4
FollowupID: 387061   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:28

markp posted:

North Central Vic
FollowUp 3 of 4
FollowupID: 387064   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:45

Sarg posted:

Don't know anyone over there that I could recomend,except maybe that hotrod mob in Castlemain could give you some ideas
FollowUp 4 of 4
AnswerID: 132742   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 21:49

Anthony replied:

Hi Mark,
For what its's worth, I fitted a custom raditor to my hilux. The reason being I fitted a turbo running 10psi boost, which has not only double the power output of a 2.8 3L diesel but has also created heaps more heat. The std radiator can't handle the heat while towing in temps over low 30C.
The new radiator is basicly the same overall dimentions but has a core (still a 3 core) which has larger tubes and is (I'm told) at least 20% more efficient. It's still a brass / copper radiator and uses the original tanks etc. Cost was $600 from the Moorabin (Melb) Natrad (Thompson) radiator guys. I'm yet to test the cooling on hot days. Cheers Anthony
Reply 3 of 13
FollowupID: 387053   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:13

markp posted:

Thanks for that input Anthony, I will be v interested to hear how your rig goes this summer. Mine runs at 70-80deg C whilst the ambient temp is below 24deg, but as soon as the ambient temp hits 30deg, the engine runs at 95deg +. Just wondering if you could send me an email direct so that I have your address to contact you in about 2 months to see how your new radiator went. My email is markp1969@hotmail.com
thanks
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 132752   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 22:46

awill4x4 replied:

What year is your Hilux Mark? PWR have a few custom aluminium ones listed. Go to
pwr radiators
You can then download a pdf pricelist. Note the prices quoted don't include GST or freight.
I'm running a PWR cored radiator I built myself in my petrol GQ and it works very well indeed. Here's a pic of the one I built, it's using the same 57mm thick core that PWR lists for the Hilux on their pricelist.
[ View Image]
Regards Andrew.

Reply 4 of 13
FollowupID: 387070   Submitted: Sunday, Oct 02, 2005 at 23:17

markp posted:

Thanks Andrew, have had a look at the pwr radiators after your tip. Did you have a problem before you fitted the alum radiator? Is your GQ standard? What I'm tryin to work out is, exactly how much more effective is an aluminium radiator of similar dimensions to a standard radiator?
FollowUp 1 of 3
FollowupID: 387127   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:25

awill4x4 posted:

Mark my GQ is standard. I built the radiator as with the original one the temps would climb to over 3/4s on the gauge under load. We wanted to get a caravan so I built it to cope with towing. It now runs between 1/4 and 1/3 on the gauge and gets to 1/2 when towing up hills under full load. I've built a few now, mainly for hot street cars or street rods. I did one for an XW Falcon 410 cube supercharged running flat 10 second 1/4s which was overheating with a new 4 core brass/copper one, with the new PWR cored one he has no problems. Same for a 34 Ford supercharged 502 big block on LPG. What a nightmare job that one was to build with compound curves everywhere. I've just been told I've got to build one for the same guy in a 32 Ford he's building but this one has only got a "little" motor in it. How does a 572 cubic inch big block Chev with an 871 supercharger on LPG sound?
Having seen how efficient the aluminium ones are I'll never use copper/brass again.
If you want some really good technical info on radiators check out ARE radiators and especially their tech talk and particularly their horror photo's section, it's a real eye opener.
ARE Radiators
Regards Andrew.
FollowUp 2 of 3
FollowupID: 387130   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:43

markp posted:

Andrew,
sounds like your radiators have been very successful! I am convinced that this is the direction I will have to go with my rig. My only concern is how the alloy will stand up to endless corrugations etc. Will check out ARE site, thanks for the tip
Regards Mark.
FollowUp 3 of 3
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AnswerID: 132761   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 03:16

Tuff60 replied:

I have had alloy radiators in road cars(supercharged Commodore) but don't trust them enough for use in the bush, the whole quenching in cold water thing, and that repairs are more difficult. My solution to over heating hilux's was to fit them with radiators from HJ47 Cruiser, pipes are on the correct sides and if the mounting plates are swapped from top and bottom to both sides they bolt in easy enough. Have more capacity and dual or tripple pass from memory, and they used to only cost $240 brand new trade price from Natra. My advice would be get a damaged one from a wrecker(hopefully free) and test fit in your Lux, as I don't know what model you have. Either the FJ or HJ 40 sries radiators had the pipes the right way round for Holden V8's, assuming that is what you are running.
Hope this helps.
P.S. used to modify the centre of bumper replacement(ARB type) bull bars to allow for more air flow, also check the bottom third of your's is not plugged up with mud, common in older Luxs.
Reply 5 of 13
FollowupID: 387133   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:48

markp posted:

Tuff60,
thanks for your input. I also hesitate to trust alloy in the bush. Don't think I have enough room to fit a Cruiser radiator, have already been down that road. Have already done EXTENSIVE modification to bull bar to allow more air flow, (winch has been sitting in the shed waiting for me to sort out this problem to be refitted!). No problem with the bottom third of radiator as this is the fourth radiator I have tried - radiators get changed as regularly as oil filters so far!!!
Regards Mark
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 132766   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 07:06

stevesub replied:

In my old rally car I had a heat problem so went to a radiator specaliast and he custom built a new radiator that worked well and the cost was not much more than the standard radiator- Even used the standard top and bottom tanks, just put a 3 row core in it.

Don't know about the aluminium radiators though and my radiator specalist is in New Zealand but I am sure if you spoke to a local specalist, he will come up with an answer.

Stevesub
Reply 6 of 13
AnswerID: 132775   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 08:08

cj replied:

Just a thought but quite often you will find fitting a decent oil cooler will make a big difference. Thompsons in Moorabin actually recommended I do this before mucking around with a custom radiator as I would get better results for the money. I did some checking around and got told the same thing from a few sources. May be worth looking in to.
Reply 7 of 13
FollowupID: 387128   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:33

markp posted:

Thanks cj, have already been down that road, fitted oil cooler, enlarged sump to 6.5ltr oil capacity, altered oil pick up to suit etc, etc, jacked the bonnet up made no difference whatsoever to this one!!
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 132780   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 08:48

Member - RockyOne replied:

Liked CJ's tip re oil coolers..Re radiators,After 15 yrs the DG diesel in our Diahatsu F-55 died,replaced by Toy 18-R..Magic for general use..Did run a little hot in our hot climate (Tropic of Capricorn)..Got the gurs at Emerald Radiator Service to build me a new one..Cost me $450 but great value..Now,on the hottest day,temp gauge needle just starts to move up a little..Motor runs so cool :-) My Rocsta 2.2Ltr R-2 diesel also runs fairly hot,so will soon give it the same treatment.


Jeep Cherokee 2.5T/Diesel in Dargo.Vict 2001.Portmans tour

My 2000 TJ & Aussie Swag camper at beautiful Five Rocks nth of Rockhampton Qld
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Life is only froth 'n bubble.Two things stand like stone..Kindness in anothers trouble.Courage in your own
Reply 8 of 13
AnswerID: 132833   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 16:51

Witchdoctor replied:

Markp,
I had overheating problems in 3.1MU when towing (2 ton trailer) in the summer months i had PWR build me a custom alloy radiator with the largest skew blade thermo, has dropped the temp from well over the 100 deg to 75-76 deg's all day.
These boys know there stuff.

Dave
Reply 9 of 13
FollowupID: 387129   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:40

markp posted:

Dave,
Thanks for your input. I spoke to a local specialist today re custom alloy radiator and it seems like the way to go. They can prepare a unit which will just bolt straight in, with an additional 4" extra length at bottom and are quite confident it will solve all of my problems after I explained the lengths I had gone to. It would want to for $850!!! My only remaining concern before I spend the $$ is as someone else mentioned, the hesitation of using an alloy radiator in the bush. I do big trips on endless corrugations and have a few concerns about whether the alloy will fatigue & crack quickly. Any experience in this area?
FollowUp 1 of 2
FollowupID: 387135   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:53

Chaz posted:

Mark,
You will find that nearly all new vehicles have alloy radiators fitted now. They don't fatigue because they are mounted on very loose rubbers that give them alot of movement. The only downside of an alloy radiator is the fact that they are harder to repair in the bush, but their cooling efeciency far outweighs that. Just carry some aroldite with you incase you put a stick through it!
Chaz
FollowUp 2 of 2
AnswerID: 132871   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:45

Chaz replied:

Hi Mark,
I have been using Volkswagon radiators for years in various vehicles with a lot of success at a very ecenomical price. I've used one in my HK Monaro drag car and that never ran hot. I've used them in BMW 3 Series and even my last 4by, a chev V8 Isuzu truck that had 2 of them fitted and they solved a long standing heating problem.
There are two types, Golf @ around $220 has a filler cap and Passat @ around $180 has no filler cap(must be used with a tank). Both aluminium with plastic crossflow tanks.
I wanted a 78 series toyota one, but at $1150 that was out of the question.

Chaz
Reply 10 of 13
FollowupID: 387134   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 19:51

markp posted:

Thanks for that tip Chaz, I will definitely look into that one tomorrow!
Regards Mark
FollowUp 1 of 1
AnswerID: 132886   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 20:54

Witchdoctor replied:

Mark,
My custom rad was a great copie of the OME except it was much wider the reason for neading the thermo, with that in mind all the original mounts were retained. To date we have put 15000ks in short time with covourage from HWY to extreme off-road conditions with no problems & do not expect any.
PWR charged me $1100.00 with thermo.

Dave
Reply 11 of 13
FollowupID: 387181   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 23:23

markp posted:

Dave, what sort of vehicle do you have? Engine etc? Did PWR do the job for you just from model details or did they have the vehicle?
Mark
FollowUp 1 of 2
FollowupID: 387182   Submitted: Monday, Oct 03, 2005 at 23:27

markp posted:

Dave,
Sorry, just realized that you were the same bloke that replied earlier! I know what rig you have etc, just wondering how PWR did the job. They do say on their website that they have people on CAD program on pc that can design etc, I am assuming that they built the radiator for you from your design requirements rather than physically having your rig at their shop?
Mark
FollowUp 2 of 2
AnswerID: 132924   Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 04, 2005 at 00:41

Gerhardp1 replied:

A friend has a Toyota HJ60 with a Chev 350. When he got it, it would boil its head off at the slightest incline off road.

The thing was fitted with twin plasic thermo fans, which were hopelessly inadequate, covering only about half of the radiator and blocking half that coverage with the fan motors.

Solution was to get a fan adapter from Mark's 4WD adapters, bolt on an original toyo viscous fan obtained from a wrecker, and also to modify the shroud from a diesel HJ60 so that the viscous fan was properly centred and creating maximum suck through the whole radiator surface area.

Result was a cool Chev under all conditions including up Billy Goats Bluff Track.

Chev engines run pretty hot at the best of times. Hopefully this post helps pinpoint your problem.
Reply 12 of 13
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AnswerID: 133008   Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 04, 2005 at 17:32

Witchdoctor replied:

Mark,
I am very lucky as PWR is just down the road, i removed the OME Rad & droped it into them then they built the new one. Give them a call 07 5598 1499, they realy know there stuff.

Dave
Reply 13 of 13