Rustproofing advice wanted

Salt Assault, by Staun

It removes salt build up and puts a protective non oily coating onto the car for next time you head out.

Avalable at TJM, ARB, OL and ORE

Fish oil is all well and good if you want the beach sand stuck to the bottom of the 4WD as well.

Go electronic protection. Using fish oil and other like barriers only protects the spots you can get to and only as long as it is applied. Eg hasn't been worn off by sand etc. Speak with your state surf life saving association. Just about all of them now use ERPS or similar to protect their vehicles. There are a few different systems but all basically work the same way.

most modern vehicles including 100s are pretty well rust resistant best rustproofing is a good wash after the beach assault. Unless you like driving out to meet the fish or go beach every weekend the odd fishing trip shouldnt leave you with nothing but a pile of rust anytime soon
I have used fisholene on older vehicles as part of rust removal and treatment in problem areas

1) I used Fisholene on some rooftop air conditioning equipment that is on a building about 70 metres from the waves..... the gear lasted 3 years!!!!!! And is now rusted away!

2) The best thing you can do is thoroughly (mke that THOROUGHLY!!!!!!) wash under the truck when you get home..... takes me the best part of a day to get to all the spots that sand and salt can get to!!!

I notie that the CounterAct electronic rust protection site has a list of testimonials.

I believe some companies or voluntary agencies claim to have done comparison tests ie out of several vehicles in same environment some had tess rust.

Would units have been 'gifted' to some of these bodies? Not saying that would be wrong, just trying to establish what organisations bought what and on what evidence.

Is anyone on ExplorOz connected with any of the voluntyary organisations in particular and can give some background?

It would be impressive if (say) an electronic rust protection unit was used a an ambulance on Fraser or Moreton and independent mechanics can attest to the effectiveness of the unit/s, ERPS, CounterAct or whatever.

These units represent a big outlay, as does to a lesser extent chemical rustproofing and there must be some independent mechanics or panel beaters or the like who can comment. Owbers comments are useful but they are possibly not independent.

EV700

Deckard,

I used 4l of Fisholene under my Landcruiser. Bit on the nose for a while, but contrary to folklore, beach sand hasn't stuck to it. I let it dry off for at least a month before driving in sand.

Apart from the smell the disadvantages of fisholene are that all the gold drips that dry under the vehicle look like oil leaks and I panic each time I see one. The other thing I'm finding is that under wheel arches and the chassis alongside the wheels or where there is road splash, that the Fisholene washes off. It probably needs a harder paint coating over the top.

I imagine the air cond near the coast that Brian from the Gold Coast reported, that the Fisholene washed off. I'm planning to redo mine each couple of years. I used the degreaser can from the Supercheap compressor set I bought to spray the Fisholene all through the chassis rails, over the driveway, over me, with a nice coating of overspray on the plants and the duco. But nuthings rusting!!

I'd go with Davoes advice to wash it down properly and make sure the drain holes are free. Coat the inside of the chassis rails with Fisholene where you can't see if Toyota has put any coatings and it should be fine...... should be...

Tim

Hi Dekard
One of my friends put CounterAct on his 60 series when he had a full de-rust and respray done. It started rusting again within 3 weeks!! The rusting stopped when he ripped out the electronic system. Naturally my brother and I have both scrapped plans to fit electronic rust protection to our vehicles. Now we thoroughly wash the vehicles after beach runs - cheaper and a good chance to have a look at the undercarriage while we're there.
John

Dr Karl Kruszelnicki's viewpoint from the ABC on these devices.
Dr Karl

I also considered fitting an ERPS. On Double Island point, several owner operaters supply ice, bread, icecream etc and drive the beach every day. I asked 2 of them if they had used the electronic system - both said yes - and both said the systems were worse than useless.
20 years ago, an old hand recommended peanut oil (from Woolworths etc).
Very thin oil - penetrates every tiny nook/cranny. (try washing it off your hands).
Car smells like a fish and chip shop for about 2 days - then odorless.
I used it on my Tojo - thorough job - removed all seats etc.
Drove it on the beach many times and over 13 years of service, only 1 small spot of rust - where the chassis rail meets the very back panel - nearly impossible to get oil into. (nb - same as above - always washed it after beach runs).
I now have a GU Patrol - sprayed it with peanut oil, but with sound deadening material on the floor and panel covers everywhere, the job wasn't as thorough.
With the newer metals being zincalumed, they are far less prone to rust.
For me I'll stick with the peanut oil, and do a thorough wash after each run.
It stays tacky, so continues to creep into other inaccessable joins over time.
Yes it does attract dust, so when you lift the bonnet, the metal joins look dusty.
Overspray or leaks onto the paint work can be easily removed with soapy water and polish - and yes some migration from panel joins will continue to appear for a week or 2 after you first apply it (use a pump up plastic spray gun).
UPSIDE : It works - it's cheap - and it works.
DOWNSIDE - on very soft rubber (eg the door cushioning rubber) the acid in the peanut oil will dissolve it - but only the very soft foam type rubber.
That has been my experience.
(Just for the hell of it - try washing it off your hands with cold water).

I have a GU which is similar size to your 100 series.
I use to be an old school spray person. I considered a long time about going electronic and spoke to alot of people. months of research. Consulted a few of my collegues who are also chemical wizzes. I now have ERPS on my GU and will definitely do it again. You can ask people all the opinions you want but if they're not fitted properly and system is not sufficient, it won't work.

If you ring ERPS at Gold Coast, they'll tell you their 6 pack beach pack is the way to go. BS.

My GU has 10 pads. 2 on diagonal corners of my chassis, 2 on front of body L and R, 2 in middle of body, 2 at back of body, one on steel bullbar and one on the large rear door.

Remember current will not pass through rubber or any other insulation. So you need to climb under and have a look or have a good installer who knows what they are looking for and where to put the pads.

My GU lives at Fraser Island when possible and it's in perfect condition. I'll actually be going into the shine and shine up at cruiser park next year. if you want to see pics of my GU, go to 4WD monthly forum and look up My TI patrol.

my bro has 9 pads on his Yota Kluger which also leaves at fraser and moreton. He's not the most thorough person when comes to washing and his beast is in as new condition.

The thing you need to remember is ERPS does not PREVENT RUST. IT slows it down DRAMATICALLY. It emits -ve current which travels via the vehicles PAINT to cover the metal and prevent the chemical reaction of rusting occuring as fast as it normally does.

1. No paint = no protection. best results on new vehicles. may need touch up on areas.
2. You still need to WASH the vehicle. not a garden sprinkler. i throw the meat huggers on with a pair of goggles and climb under the truck. garden hose is all that's required as a strong shower and start washing from top down. above fuel tank, above rails, gear box transfer case, inside chassis rails. Don't use high pressure, you'll blow sand into places you'll never get out again. and some people wonder why their truck rusts.

My GU is never under shelter. It's in the sun 24/7. the -ve charge has prevented the oxidization of the paint as well. See my pics for proof.

The guy that looks after the Eurong beach houses on Fraser has a defender with the aluminium body. so call no rust. because he never washes his vehicle, it just corrodes away. Now with the system and washing it once a fortnight, it has stopped or slowed down heaps.

If you're in brisbane, let me know.. i'll point you to someone that knows what they're doing. i can even show you my truck if you want to see it.

i didn't go for counteract or coupler tec (same company- different smell) because they only had 2 pads. one in front and 1 at rear. Someone told me they now have 4 APPARENTLY. still not enough. i know each PAD should emit minimum of 440 millivolts. maybe on a Jimny..

Goodluck. i'll definitely do it again.

Thanks for all your responses, certainly given me something to think about!

Seems the only thing everyone agrees on is to wash the buggery out of the car - makes good sense to me.

Kiss'n'dirt, can't find your profile, same usename??

Dekard

I suppose a question that has not been addressed is whether to (professionally) chemically rust proof or not.

Some reasons against that I have read:
-it can block ventilation and drain holes;
- no better in the longer term than washing underbody and waxing paint;
- fisholene and some other products make the engine bay unpleasant to work in (sticky gelatinous coating everywhere);
- when used, products like SaltAssault can dissolve rustproofing chemicals; and
- sand and gravel remove coating in some areas over time.

What is the best for a person who intends to keep a vehicle tong term?

Forgetting ERPS etc is it better to have a professional rust proof or not?

I got a mate who lives right behind rainbow beach.

He's had his hj45 ute (so i'm told) for 10 yrs. The only place he drives it is on the beach.

He fisholined the whole car. Let it dry for a month and hasn't had any problems.

Must note he does a new coat every 2 years...