Clean Diesel Engine

Submitted: Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 13:39


Anybody had experience cleaning diesel engines ?
My mechanic is recomending to clean the engine for any carbon deposits. He is mentioning to run the engine for 1/2 hour with some stuff that I don't know what it is.
Is this any good ?
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Reply By: Member - Geoff M (Newcastle) - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 15:20

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 15:20
Hi Pelesino,
Good idea coming and asking questions. Small problem, you don't know what the mechanic is proposing. Neither do we!!
You have an advantage over us, you know who you spoke too!!
Can we have some more information please? There are as many internal diesel engine cleaners as there are engines.
Some people on the forum have had success with, "CEM Flushing Oil Concentrate"
See, Concentrate Post

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AnswerID: 141962

Reply By: Member - Duncs - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 15:35

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 15:35

I have heard of some stuff that some recommend running to clean your injectors as a cheap alternative to taking them out and doing the job properly. If this is what you are talking about it is a poor substitute for having the fuel system serviced. It can also make things worse. If it loosens carbon from around the injector nozzle but does not completely remove it the spray pattern of the fuel can be disrupted and this will lead to a poor burn. This in turn can lead to loss of power, increased fuel use and overheating none of which you want.

I am not a mechanic but this information was given to me by a long time friend who is. His experience is in Cat diesels in earthmoving , trucks, marine and statick engines. He started his apprenticeship in 1977, is a bit old faxhioned and does not generally endorse the use of quick fix chemicals of any description.

Remember the old saying. "If a job's worth doing it's worth doing well." That's my 2c but I can tell you a good fuel system service will make a huge difference to your diesel performance.

AnswerID: 141966

Reply By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 18:44

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 18:44
Dont use any of that type of stuff never have and never will !!! Dirty injectors, get em pulled out and cleaned properly, change fuel filter when required, check water trap, oil dirty then change it more reguarly, (diesel oil will always be black 5mins after changing it but should not be gluggy in any way do every 5k you wont have any probs), diff seal/pinion leaking pull apart and put in new seal not stop leak, as said above by other forum replys if you look after from the start then you will not need to be using all this crap they try and sell you. My old girl 2.8diesel has 280k on it now and still going well. Has only had the injectors cleaned twice in that time and still get 9/10L per 100klms, no smoke, had the glow plugs done once, fuel pump done once, have just done the front hub seals bearing etc 2 weeks ago the old ones still like new kept them for spares,why because I repack them every 20ksometimes earlier if it's done a lot of deep water. Mate honestly save your hard earned $$$$$ and do it right the first time and you will reap the rewards by having a reliable vehicle. regards steve m
AnswerID: 141998

Follow Up By: Alloy c/t - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 19:08

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 19:08
Where do you get the facts from ??? "diesel oil will alwaysbe black 5 min after changing "" funny how my oil in the cruiser stays golden from 1 change to the next , and when "rubbed" between finger and thumb leaves no black smudge ,, used the CEM flushing fluid at 340k ,cruiser oil and filter change =9.6lt got out 11.2lt of the blackest oil+sludge like tar ,, now at 350k and oil like new between changes and fuel use dropped by 2.5klm per lt ...
FollowupID: 395599

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 19:32

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 19:32
Alloy CT, if your oil (presumably on a 2H LandCruiser) doesn't go black soon after a change, then the oil you use is not doing its job. Diesel engine oils have detergents that shift the black stuff, so they go dark sooner.

The direct injection diesels do stay clean for a bit longer.

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FollowupID: 395601

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 20:52

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 20:52
Alloy CT I have seen that once and once only in an underground ute and i have no idea why as identically serviced utes had the normal black dip sticks. Maybe it has something to do with really good injection pump timing i dunno. But i can assure you pitch black is the normal colour of diesal oil even in new vehicles
FollowupID: 395621

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 15:22

Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 15:22
Alloy, I change my filter and oil every 3k with out fail and have so since brand new, has always gone black,in about 5 mins after starting it,I have worked for toyota for 5 years and my mate still works there been there for 17 years head technician, even the later model 3litre turbo's go black between there 5k service intervals. As said above, maybe your oil is not doing the job it's suppose to do. I use to use valvoline super diesel for the past 14 years and now for the past 2 have been using castrol diesel anti soot (just a sales pitch probably) reason I changed is that I get the castrol at cost price.Both oils are for diesel's. Not saying that you are full of sh@t but you must be the only person I know with a diesel that does not go black, if that's the case than you shoulod get 500 + klms out of that motor of yours without any problems. I must admit I was thinking about giving that stuff a try not long ago when it was mentioned on this site but was told it could stuff the seals on my pump and also disslodge any carbon build up that might be there and cause it to start blowing blue smoke so I decided not to. I dont know if anyboby has used it and had any prolems after woods but am not willing to become a ginni pig. How long has this product been on the market for and is this the first time that you have used it ??? Regards Steve M
FollowupID: 395737

Follow Up By: Alloy c/t - Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 17:08

Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 17:08
Oil +filter every 5k , fuel filter every 10 k and air filter every 15k with 2x washes in between , 92gxl factory turbo auto ,, all I know as fact is that at 340k used the CEM flushing solution at the recomended rate and since then nil smoke on start up ,nil oil usage between changes and a definite increase in fuel economy , is now doing 10/11 klm per lt on h/way towing c/t , previously was 8/9 klm per lt ,, oil is Valvoline super diesel and stays "golden" from 1 change to the next ,,,, at $99 for the "kit" which gives the initial flush + a continuing maintenance flush x10 + fuel treatment for 1000 lts of fuel seems like a good investment in motor longevity ,, I too have mate tojo trained who worked on cruisers for 15+yrs ,and a diesel fitter lives next door ,,, have now "recommended " the product to others including a pajero ,jackaroo ,and heaven forbid a patrol with 480k and all say same as me , "The bleep works"
FollowupID: 395747

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 18:41

Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 18:41
Hi there Alloy,is this product only available from queensland or can i purchase it somewhere in sydney ?? Dont get me wrong I'm not doubting your words, I'm just concerned from what I have read on this forum about the negatives as well, I cant afford to spend 6k on a rebuid if something does go wrong. I know you can't believe every thing you read but why would these people who reply on this forum have any reason to bullsh@t about the products they use. i might get game and give it a try, i was just a bit concerned before with the 270klm my'n has done and dont want to cause any problems. Thankyou Regards Steve m
FollowupID: 395758

Follow Up By: Alloy c/t - Saturday, Dec 03, 2005 at 08:41

Saturday, Dec 03, 2005 at 08:41
FollowupID: 395818

Follow Up By: Pelesino - Monday, Dec 05, 2005 at 12:52

Monday, Dec 05, 2005 at 12:52
My mechanic mentioned that this chemical is to clean carbon deposits in the valves. He did not mention anything about the injectors.
Does this make any sense ??
FollowupID: 395988

Reply By: hoyks - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 20:36

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 20:36
I ran a bottle of Nulon engine flush through my diesel at about the 60 000 mark and got 1.5L more oil and sludge out than oil I put in at the previous service. I run Delo 400 and change oil every 5000 there abouts and after 150000k I ran another bottle of stuff through and got nothing extra out. Oil still gets dirty between services, if it dosent then why change it? ;-)
I suppose it can work if the engine is really clogged up and has been run on oil that might not be suited to the engine.
AnswerID: 142016

Follow Up By: muzzgit (WA) - Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 01:12

Friday, Dec 02, 2005 at 01:12
I have never had an old style diesel, but both my brother and a good mate of mine had 2H cruisers and both had problems with oil sludging up. Both changed oil brand after "flush and clean" and fixed da problem. Oil was RIMULA X.

My mechanic puts RIMULA X in my 3.0 patrol, no sludge--ever.
FollowupID: 395672

Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 22:45

Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 22:45
Hi Pelisino,
Look back at post I put in Titled "Dirty Diesel Oil". I was in the same boat as you and used the flushing oil concentrate from CEM in Qld. The results were amazing. You will read a lot of ilinformed comment from others on the forum but keep am open mind, read the post and try for yourself. I have also used it in a turbo petrol 1.9 litre with great results.
AnswerID: 142044

Follow Up By: Super-T - Wednesday, Dec 07, 2005 at 22:42

Wednesday, Dec 07, 2005 at 22:42
The CEM product is available over the internet from Cost Effective Maintenance. They post it free unless you add the decarbonizer to the order, as that has special couriering requirements.
I recently purchased some to attempt to solve an elusive overheating problem in a 1989 Hi-roof, GQ Patrol, that has had an aftermarket turbo added.
This vehicle has been sucking down 20l/100Km, and runs at 50% of temperature gauge all the time, then boils if taken on long climbs.
So far I'm still awaiting the results, as the flush was only done on the weekend. I ran it through twice as the history of the vehicle indicates that it has been used touring and so could have had all sorts of poor quality diesel put through it. It has however got an immaculate service history log-book, so didn't feel that the engine would be in such poor state that the product would do the harm that I understand can be caused to very bad engines.
I'll keep you informed of how it goes once the treatment is completed
After the double flush of the oil, the temperature never went over 75% on my test hill. This same hill used to boil me half way, now I get to the top but as far as I'm concerned she's still running seriously too hot.
I can't say about the fuel additive as I'm only a 1/4 of the way through the tank I added it too. Though I believe - and may well be mistaken - that this product makes the fuel burn "hotter" as part of the cleaning process, which may account for why the temp has come down, but not come down far enough yet.
I know that we've tried a complete cooling system rebuild with 3 core radiator, new pump, thermostat, hoses, etc etc. and that I basically didn't have much money left to keep playing around with, so decided that at $99 if it didn't work then no real harm was likely to be done as the engine is in quite good condition and has only 250,000 on it.
I only got a little more oil out than was in there, and not terribly bad oil. But it has stopped the small puff of white smoke when starting first thing in the morning.
FollowupID: 396413

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