Thick black rubber stuff for mud flaps

Submitted: Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:16

Member - Norm C (QLD)

You know the stuff. I'm looking to make a stone guard to hang under my rear bar that will go the full width of the vehicle. I'll put it on when on long gravel road trips to reduce the chance of stones thrown up from the 4B hitting the CT and bouncing back on the vehicle.

So, where do I buy it? I'll need a piece about 1500mm x 500mm
Thanks, Norm C
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Reply By: Member - Wim (Qld) Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:18


I made up the same thing. Clark Rubber.

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AnswerID: 153810

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Thanks Wim. Sounds like a trip to Brisvagas is required. No Clark Rubber stores on the Gold Coast.
FollowupID: 407718

Reply By: Member - John L G Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:42


Ring around a bit and find an industrial supply or heavy machinery mob and get some second hand conveyor belt rubber.

Much tougher than plain sheet rubber as it is rubber bonded to a textile base which prevents tearing.

I have some out the back but I'm in Perth, a bit far methinks.

John G
AnswerID: 153812

Reply By: Mark T Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:46

In the past I've used "insertion rubber" which is a rubber and canvas laminate.

Not sure what it was originally used for but made good mudflaps on my Daihatsu F20 in 1977. In fact when I scrapped the vehicle in 92 they were still on it.


AnswerID: 153815

Reply By: Mulga Bill Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:59

Yep - canvas/rubber conveyor belting - tough as anything - will outlast nuclear attack - in Adelaide, there is a salvage mob (Paramount Browns) that seem to have the lot - various widths and calipers - some new and lots of used. You might have a similar outfit up there - lots of mining in QLD !
AnswerID: 153818

Reply By: KOR Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 12:16

You could try metalmart if you have them in qld, even some other rural supplier may have it. People often use this stuff to line the inside of horse yards
AnswerID: 153822

Reply By: Howard T Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 12:35

Hi Norm
You can purchase insertion rubber from Blackwoods. Dont know if there is a store down there anywhere.
It comes in different thicknesses.

Best of Luck

AnswerID: 153825

Follow Up By: Member - Phil [Sunshine Coast]

Hi Norm, Google 'blackwoods' they have a branch in Tweed heads, I ,m goin to the one up here for the same thing. I,ll be in Broome early May with a tinnie if u can go earlier? I see your goin a bit later, is it set in concrete?? We might be able to catch up.... cya
FollowupID: 407729

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Thanks Howard and Phil. There is a Blackwoods at Southport. Gave them a ring and they have the stuff in 1200mm width. I'll need to have a join to cover full width, but not a problem.

Phil, pity but our dates are now pretty firm. Travelling as far as Broome with friends and we have confirmed dates, including booking in Broome from 5th June. Bugger.
FollowupID: 407735

Reply By: glenn_c Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 12:46

Hi Norm,
There is a Clark Rubber store at South Tweed, alot closer than brisbane.
Regards Glenn
AnswerID: 153828

Reply By: time waster Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 14:20

I don't know if it's true but I have heard that you can overheat the running gear as the flap can reduce the air flow under the car. I not sure but I did hear it once.
AnswerID: 153840

Follow Up By: SKP

Also some Bods recckon it flicks the stones up from the hump in the centre of the track!
FollowupID: 407745

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Interesting points. I'd have thought there is still plenty of air flow. The air just gets deflected out the sides. Flap is well to the rear of any running gear. I'm no expert, but that is how I see it. Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong.

SKP, fair point. I'll be positioning the bottom of the flap about 4 inches off the ground. Yes, it will fit the ground at times, but I'm picturing that only flicking stones up a foot or so. They would have to flip up a lot more to hit the trailer at an angle that would then bounce onto the rear paintwork or window of the 4B. No guarantees in life, but I think it is a positive move.

In any case, it is all risk management. A bit like the occasional stories of air bags causing death or serious injury. I'm sure it has happened, but no reason not to use them. They save many many more times the lives they cost.
FollowupID: 407747

Follow Up By: Member - Captain (WA)

Hi Norm C,

I have a full length rubber flap that is made of conveyor material and sat ~2" off the ground. After much travel on gravel roads, it was a waste of time IMHO! See my rig pic for my van and it still had big dings higher than my vehicle on the van front - and thats WITH the flap on.

Never had a problem with heating, cannot see how that would cause a problem.But if you do go ahead with a flap style, make sure the rubber is heavy duty as the light weight ones simply fold up with wind pressure.

While I haven't used one, I reckon the stone guard on the adventure trailer is the way to go.


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FollowupID: 407770

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Thanks Captain. I've been looking for a pic of the the Adventure stone guard. Looks good and should work well. From the pic, there seem to be a couple of practical issues. Have to take it off / roll it back to the CT to put jockey wheel down, for example.

I'll have a think about whether I can use some ideas form it.

Guess you can only do a certain amount with this problem. I've got a reasonable stone guard on the CT. Thought I'd add the full width flaps to the 4B, then in real bad areas, cover the rear window. Short of the Adventure style, or staying on the black top, not sure what more I can do.

I guess if we didn't want any stone chips at all, we wouldn't be getting off the black top as much as we do.


Norm C
FollowupID: 407781

Follow Up By: Wombat

Hi guys,

We've got the Adventure stone guard between the Triton and our Coromal Silhouette and it seems to work a treat. On our Oodnadatta, Litchfield, Kakadu, Uluru trip we covered 11,000km without incurring even one stone chip or dent to the front of the camper. To fit the jockey wheel to the A-frame it is simply a matter of ondoing two spring clips.
FollowupID: 407965

Follow Up By: Pajman Pete (SA)

Or just be like me and drive a ratty 15 year old Paj towing a 25 year old Jayco and not worry about the chips. Still cover the rear window but just patch the chips with black paint to stop the rust.


Any mug can be uncomfortable out bush
FollowupID: 407990

Reply By: time waster Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 15:10

After our trip last year Adelaide-Birdsville-Alice-Chambers P-Dalhousie-Googs in our 05 Hilux we had heaps of stone chips on tailgate and we had a full stone gaurd on the c/t. We are now going to make the stone gaurd the the Adventurer C/T company use, we travelled with friends that had one and not one chip to rear of car. We also had a rubber flap on the rear and lasted until Googs then broke with the bouncing on dunes.
AnswerID: 153848

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

time waster, is that the one that has the 'shade cloth laid flat ( horizontal) from the front of the CT right across the drawer bar to the back of the vehicle?

I've never seen it, but have seen a description. Concept sounds good, but I can't picture how it joins to the vehicle and allows for turning and getting to the back of the vehicle while CT is connected.

If I have the right one, can you describe this for me. Better still do have some pics?

Norm C
FollowupID: 407751

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 15:25

I made one up years ago, and was recommended (by Fitch the Rubber Man in Adelaide) to use industrial webbed rubber matting (like rubber mesh) which lets the air flow through, but still deflects the stones.
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AnswerID: 153851

Reply By: Member - Brian (Gold Coast) Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 18:14


Another thing to think about is a piece of plexi or lexan across the rear window to stop any rogue stones coming in to help 'emselves to your beer in the fridge!
AnswerID: 153879

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Yes Brian, but I want to protect the paint on the back of the Pretty Blue Hilux as well. We are heading for some country that paint job wasn't designed for.
FollowupID: 407796

Follow Up By: Member - Brian (Gold Coast)


Heres another thought; on page 159 of issue 90 Australian 4WD Monthly mag is a product review of Scratch Pro

There is some guff on the net as well at this address. It may be worth looking into.
Just a thought.
FollowupID: 407803

Reply By: glenno(qld) Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 20:33

Conveyor belts . Carnt say any more .
AnswerID: 153924

Reply By: Bros 1 Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 10:48

Norm C,
I had the bright idea of making one of these last year to protect the front of
the C/T from stones on our Qld outback trip. The first time we went off the
tar onto dirt was on the road from Winton to Old Cork, the tray for the fuel containers in front of the C/T filled up with stones. Every stop during the day ondirt while on the dirt thereafter that it was a chore to empty the tray.
Cut it off a bit further up and alleviated the problem somewhat.
Design errors were, (1) too close to ground and (2) made out of too rigid a
conveyor belting. Maybe better if used light insertion rubber as stated above.
Work is the curse of the down and out bludger.
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AnswerID: 154032

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

That's interesting Bros. If they are too long, I guess the flaps run along the ground and kick up stones themselves. I thought about 100mm off the ground. Sound about right?

Why do you say too rigid? I had imagined the more rigid (within reason) the better. Do you think it is so that when they hit the ground, they bend rather than kick up stones?
FollowupID: 407951

Reply By: Bros 1 Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 12:10

Norm C,
The conveyor belting that i used was a textile impregnated or layered one, 12-15 mm thick and it does not bend readily. it might be an idea if you went to a dirt road in your area with a fairly big hump in the middle and measured the distance from the top of the hump up to where you want the bottom of the stone deflector to sit when fitted. If you use a fairly pliable rubber skirt that is going to blow up a bit with movement breeze under the vehicle, maybe add a bit extra. The jury is still out.
Work is the curse of the down and out bludger.
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AnswerID: 154046

Reply By: G.T. Monday, Feb 13, 2006 at 17:51

Norm C --- There is a rubber reseller ( not Clarks ) in Ferry Road between the B.P. Servo and Brogola Street, sort of opposite the Brickworks. regards G.T.
AnswerID: 154736

Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) Monday, Feb 13, 2006 at 19:20

Thanks guys. I've made them up, Got some 6mm insertion rubber from Blackwoods. Bolted it onto 50x25 steel with stainless steel bolts and big washers. For the moment, I've put a flap on each side 600mm wide. This leaves a gap of about 450mm between them. If necessary I can fill this gap with another piece, but thought I'd try the current set up first.

I primed and double top coated the steel with Rust Guard and will buy some plastic end stops to help prevent water getting in and rusting it from the inside.

Looks OK and I can't hear it rattling so far.

Thanks for your help.
AnswerID: 154760

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA)

How did you attach the 50x25 bar to the 'Lux? Is it at the tow bar area, or back in a bit under the back.
I've tried a couple of ways to attach a piece of 50 x 50 angle with 12 4" hinges attached.....these were used to hold 3 RM Williams large truck mudflaps, which were just about the right width (maybe a couple of inches too narrow, but very bloody close). I attached the angle to the 2 tie-down lugs on the back of the Patrol's chassis, but the outer ends on each side were prone to being bent up when I traversed REALLY gnarly country (rough, dry river beds etc). I had them on when we did our trip across the Simpson and they worked well.
Anyway, glad to read here at the end that you seem to have a satisfactory result and I wish you all the best for your travels.
FollowupID: 408774

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD)

Roachie, I took the pretty chrome rear step off ages ago and had some protector bars welded onto the tow bar. There were a couple of easy spots in the supports for these where I just drilled a hole. Put a D shackle through the hole. Drilled another hole in the 50 x 25 and put another D shackle through that. Linked the shackles together. The flaps are therefore well back just about under the extreme rear of the vehicle.

Follow? Pretty simple as long as you have somewhere to drill and attach the shackles.
FollowupID: 408790

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