Snowy 3.0iTD posted:

I just took a spare gasket in to the local sheet-metal place and had one without the big hole made out of 1mm stainless steel plate. It cost me $20 and they reckoned that standard galvnised plate would have been okay but I went for stainless for peace of mind.

It took me about 40mins to do but is pretty straight forward; you unbolt the intercooler cover, unbolt the intercooler you can try pushing it aside but I found it easier to undo the hose clamps and totally remove it. Unbolt the pipe from the EGR valve where it feeds in to the inlet manifold and gently pull it back. Take out the old gasket, and clean the excess gunk from around the area. I put a thin bead of sealastic on both sides of the plate, but make sure it is only a clean thin bead, particularly on the inlet side as you don't want a glob of silicon breaking off at some stage and blocking a valve. You then bolt everything back up, the reverse of the above described procedure. If you are still unsure, if you have one one of the CD-ROM workshop manuals they have an exploded view of this area, if not you can email and I can send you the relevant pages in a PDF in the next day or so.

Cheers

Snowy

Member - Captain (WA) posted:

Thanks for that Snowy, much appreciated. And yes, I would appreciate the relevant pdf ppages when you get the chance (my email is in my rig profile).

Cheers

Captain

hl posted:

Hi,
There really is no need to take the intercooler off. Not even the cover, really.
When you undo the 2 bolts, the casket falls out as soon as you pull the pipe back.
You can just slide the plate in, line up the bolt holes, and Bob's your uncle.
Taking the plastic cover off does make it a little bit more accessible, but if you had any midwife training, you won't need to do it.
That way it takes about 5 minutes to do (and to reverse).
Cheers

Snowy 3.0iTD posted:

hl

That may be true for some, but as I have large paws rather than the delicate double jointed hands of a surgeon, I found it essential to remove the intercooler cover, and although not essential removing the intercooler certainly made it easier. It does take longer, but as my 4BY is my second most valuable asset I am quite happy to take a bit longer and make sure I get it right.

Snowy

cam_champion posted:

another point of note, those of us with manual 3.0L and WITHOUT a d-tronic that have blocked our egrs have had some issues with the vehicle going into 'safe' mode at highway cruising sppeds. noted by a sudden lack of power occasionally. The fix for this is to adjust the VNT limiting screw down by about 1/3 of a turn on the turbo to limit peak boost. Note, this only limits peak boost and no of us have noticed any difference in real world driving. This will reduce peak boost by 1-2 psi and stop it going into 'safe' mode. Also note that this does not bring on the engine light!

Member - Glenn D (NSW) posted:

Hows it going Cam ,

Having been plauged by ' safe mode ' problems , I am just wondering how you know that this is your problem without the 'check engine' light coming on , also what is the difference between having a Dtronic fitted and not?

How have you come across the adjustment that you prescribe ?

Glenn.

cam_champion posted:

for me when the fix, whilst driving, was to back off and then reaply the accelerator, this indicated that it was an electrical problem and a fairly minor one (though very frustrating) and my first port of call was to replace the MAF sensor. Problem still existed, but happened less frequently. The patrol4x4.com forumites (chaz mainly) have discussed similar problems that had arisen with their patrols after the egr had been blocked. It seams to be a case of peak boost rises slightly once exhaust is not being re-dirrected back into the intake manifold via egr valve. the rise in boost is enough to trigger a "safe mode" situation but not enough to cause the ecu to fault and bring on the check engine light. The fix of lowering peak boost was discussed thouroughly and it would seam that blocking egr's is common with the european spec engine, and an article that was posted on the patrol forum (in french) initially provided us with the details of lowering peak boost. This has been a fix that has not seen mine go into 'safe mode' since, egr is still blocked, and in the real world of diving there has been no noticable loss of power.

cam_champion posted:

none of us are sure why this problem does not exist if there is a d-tronic fitted, best guess is that there are different boost parameters programmed into the d-tronic.

I am also hoping that the slightly lower boost will help with the longevity of the engine as I was hoping to get at least 300,000ks out of mine.