2004 TOYOTA LANDCRUISER HZJ105R STANDARD

LOL the one I was looking at had orange workman light thingos on top haha you couldnt be more right. I had a feeling theyd be crapola.

With the 80 series, is unleaded with 240,000kms ok to look at? Or just look at diesels if Im getting something over 200k's?

Thanks

might be this one lol..

Sorry Rick, didn't mean to give the impression that they were all rubbish, you just have to avoid the bad eggs (as with any second-hand purchase)!Mine sites are often very corrosive environments so the ex-mine LC's would be the first ones you'd want to avoid (although the really bad ones are generally scrapped, not sold!)

As for the rest, it's personal preference whether you want carpet or vinyl, whether you're man enough to wind your own windows up/down, and whether you're patient enough to drive a diesel without a turbo (if you're not doing a lot of highway driving, particulary in hilly terrain, it won't bother you as much). And if you're the only one in it most of the time, why would you need central locking?

I was a little worried buying a petrol (V6) Jackaroo with 225,000km on it, but I needn't have been (I sold it with just under 400,000km on it and no dramas in that time). I don't know how long the petrol Landcruiser engines last but I'd think they should be nearly as good as a Jackaroo! :) although the engine isn't the only thing that wears out and it will all depend on how well the whole car has been looked after.

Your decision might also depend on what you're buying the car for: how long do you plan to have it - 2 years or 20? Is it your only car, or just for trips (an only car will clock up the miles quicker than one that sits in the garage until you go on a trip)?

A few privately owned 105 come along and some company vehicles arewell cared for.
I wouldnt dismiss all of them out right.
The main thing to watch out for is the gearbox.

They can be good value at the price for a big comfy wagon with a good reputation.

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I second on the front seats, steel bar across the front, get them re padded by an upholsterer.

Cheers

Yep, and sooooooo easy to clean after you get home from a trip- just brush out the floor! The standards are always much cheaper than the factory turbos & GXLs- as other people have mentioned, other than having no factory turbo (+10k) it's just the lack of creature comforts like carpet & cruise control... My standard (80 series) has aftermarket cruise control and central locking fitted, not much expense for a lot of gain on these two I think!

If you don't drive like a F1 driver you won't have a problem with the lack of turbo either- they cruise along beautifully at 100 on the highway and you drop down a gear to go up a hill. They are also very capable 4WDing, especially idling over just about anything.

Like most other people, I would be careful of an ex-mining car. I wouldn't be so worried about an ex-fleet. What year is it? Do you know its history? How much do they want for it?

no but every week , if they are maintained correctly get an akali clean , which in turn rusts every panel

bit confused-cant say I have ever heard of an "alkali clean"?
But alkali doesnt cause rust as far as I know, in fact the opposite, hence steel reo in concrete. The strong alkali of cement inhibits corrosion. Feel free to correct me if Im wrong though!

Not sure who told you that fisho64 but its not true.

Theres a number of reasons why minesites are corrosive.
first is the groundwater - it varies in salinity with the goldfields being the worst being much more salty than seawater . most other sites groundwater is highly mineralized to some extent - put it this way you wouldnt drink it

Next is the Sulphides which usually comprises of the ore. When mixed with water it creates sulphuric acid. Its a big problem with waste dumps as it can acidify the ground

next is the amount of mud they drive through - you say the inland is dry and hot - not true. No minesite will allow the roads to go dry and dusty and they are constantly watered with the saline ground water. The vehichles are constantly covered in mud underneath and the regularity of cleaning can vary.

I havnt yet started with underground mines

Hi Fisho64,
haven't you ever heard of concrete cancer???
I've worked in underground mines for a number of years. We used Landcruiser Troopies and try backs. They had the transmission locked in 4wd for their working life and were quite often pulled out of sumps (where the pumps are). Tyre wear was beyond imagination and were constantly overloaded and run over roads and drives surfaced with crushed fines and mullock some of which can get very rough at times and were constantly settled with waste water that was obtained from any sauce available.
The average life of these vehicles was about eighteen months but never sold but stripped for spares and buried in old stopes.
Any ex mine vehicle that comes on the market would have come from an open cut where the life is not quite so bad but life for these vehicle is not good and relatively short. Those that are reasonable are usually traded in on new vehicles and then tarted up by the dealers. So be aware of any dealers that deal with mining companies.

concrete cancer is caused by steel to close to the surface of the concrete not the alkalinity of the cement. Concrete is porous and closer than 60to 100mm from surface will be attacked by the elements.

""Common rebar is made of unfinished tempered steel, making it susceptible to rusting. Normally the concrete cover is able to provide a pH value higher than 12 avoiding the corrosion reaction. Too little concrete cover can compromise this guard through carbonation from the surface.""

point only being though that there are MANY ex-mine 105's at a good price that will give many many years of active service.
Mostly the problems with them are obvious to a reasonably experienced eye, given that they are so rugged.

It's the 100 series, with IFS that have the diff problems, the 105 is solid front end. My mate has checked his fuel consumption on his daily trip from Hornsby to Liverpool & back & he is getting around 11L/100km.

No mate - IFS or live axle, unfortunately the 100 series front diff is not strong - one of the fellas here did a live axle diff four times before his warranty expired!