AnswerID: 403768 Submitted: Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 12:47
_gmd_pps
replied:
Just for info and clarification:
240V wiring in vehicles have to comply with AS 3000 and in particular AS 3001
which in essence says that you do not connect earth an neutral, but connect earth to the vehicle only through the cord. You also do NOT use an earth stake.
Vehicle chassis is to be earthed for permanent installation.
An RCD MUST be fitted. They are generally detecting low residual currents so I would not know why a poster her argues that vehicles need a special one. RCDs are meant to trip on low currents. He may refer to RCBOs because in vehicles you probably have lower overload protection than in house circuits.
RCDs are NOT overload protectors. One needs to have additional circuit breakers or use RCBOs, which combine both functions. Have not seen them in OZ though, but I also did not look for them.
One important thing though and I bet that 99% of installations do not have this:
In vehicles you need 2 circuit breakers (overload) one before the RCD and one or more after, just as in a permanent situation. I do not recall if the Standard requires that (someone else might know) but my practise is as follows.
Directly behind the 15Amp power inlet you wire a double pole overload circuitbreaker and after that and RCD. One could use a RCBO here, it would do the same. This will serve two purposes: First it will protect your cable (the breaker at the power point of the CP may not, and secondly it will make sure that if something happens on the input side with the wiring (loose contact, wire break etc) that both poles get disconnected. RCDs do not work with the neutral disconnected and the other wire live.
After the RCD you can put circuit breakers for your consumer circuits.
I have a 5Amp Circuit for my Charger and a 5 Amp Circuit for general use.
I deliberately use lower rated breakers in the truck. The camper has higher rated circuits for other devices, but also only 10Amp. I'd rather have more separate circuits than one 16 or 20Amp one, where the plug is rated only to 15amp anyway.
In ALL installations I have seen people rely on the circuit breaker at the supply point and have no double pole switch for the input - Not a good idea.
If one uses this practise it is easy to wire a transfer switch from/to an inverter to achieve automatic switching between internal and external 240V.
I am not an electrician if you may wonder so take this NOT as advise. I just
use my common sense.
And also: use flexible cable rated for the current you require, which has the proper insulation for outdoor use. Stiff (solid) cable may break eventually in a vehicle.
have fun
gmd
Reply 11 of 13
FollowupID: 673433 Submitted:
Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 21:11
oldtrack123 posted:
Hi Gmd
Re many of your statements This one says it all:
"I am not an electrician if you may wonder so take this NOT as advise. I just
use my common sense. "
Sorry
Unfortunately "common sense" is only one's personal opinion of their advise.
A few points:-
RCDs have different trip ratings,
30ma standard [for houses etc]
20 ma for patient areas in hospitals, old age homes ,ambulamnces etc
Vehicle permanent installation?
if permanently wired , by fixed wiring but not cord!!!
Earth stake , NO, not if the vehicle is fed from a house switch board or van park outlet.
But yes IF it is directly fed from a metered point [ similar to house] then may be classed as permanent & requires ALL the requirements of AS 3000
Fuses ,OlCBs before meters ??
Not sure which states you are referring to,But to my knowledge all states do not have consumer fuses or OLCBS BEFORE meters.
In Fact ,to my knowledge, NO supply authority would approve of Unsealed fuses /olcbs or main switch before their meters!!!
Flexible cable size must as a minimum be rated the same as the inlet socket, but depending on length may need to be larger,
The inlet socket must be suitable for the expected load based on calculated max demand [with a rule in Standards specifying how to calculate]
I think you should take care in posting detailed advise on how to carry out detailed wireing of 240v.
Some of your info is correct & other is incorrect.
.If some one follows thru on your incorrect advise & an accident occurred they *& the supplier of that advise could be in serious trouble
FollowUp 6 of 8
FollowupID: 673440 Submitted:
Thursday, Feb 11, 2010 at 21:50
Member - Allan B (QLD) posted:
Oldtrack makes a good point that I myself have been itching to express..........
Oldtrack said: "If some one follows thru on your incorrect advise & an accident occurred they & the supplier of that advise could be in serious trouble"
There is so much expression on this
forum about 240 volt electrical matters, some by qualified persons but much by obviously unqualified persons. And even if the advice was correct it may well be misinterpreted or misapplied.
240 VOLTS CAN AND HAS KILLED PEOPLE.
We should not be discussing the detail of how to arrange or install 240 volt installations. This should be the province only of licensed electrical contractors. As Oldtrack has pointed out, the supplier of such advice could be in serious trouble if an accident occurred. Likewise, the providers of this website could well be in an invidious situation if an accident occurred.
So for Pete's sake, stop giving specific electrical advice, even if you are qualified. Leave it to a licensed electrician. I'm sure Oldtrack and the other qualified persons would agree with me on this.
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| Cheers, Allan
Coongie Lakes
|
FollowUp 7 of 8