Tidying up <span class="highlight">battery</span> terminals - not your usual <span class="highlight">battery</span> question!

Bonz, that wiring is a bit rough old mate LOL.

Regards

TDB

T-D

Totally agree, and I would be that ashamed of such an effort that I wouldn't dare show it on the Global Internet.

I suppose you are aware that this Bonz character is a graduate of the Terang College of Anything and Everything where the first mandatory module is called 'The Farmers Lifeline' . Kid you not, it's where learn the 1001 ways to use fencing wire.

DD

Ok Guys
Please keep to the question asked ....I also would like to know of a PRACTICAL SOLUTION

Have a great weekend
Brian

Gents, one 6mm2 wire runs to each of the three fused circuits on the fuseboard. It does the trick, admirably. I did consider hiding a join under the ribbed conduit but felt that it would fail more than likely and in the worst place, say just north of Broken Hill, just west of the Silver city Hwy, near an old woolshed, hence I rejected that idea.

Ahem! Bonz.

Be a good chappy and stick to the question asked as requested by Brian R(WA) above.

I respectfully suggest that it would behoove you to do so.

DD

Youre a bloody Dag DD. Brian I think these guys are alluding to the quality and usefulness of the solution I used, hence their ontopicness is acceptable

T-M-M

I very rarely ever do this - show and tell - how I do stuff, so feel privileged.

I have included 5 pics via photobucket with explanatory notes thereafter.











Pic (1) I removed all the all the 12V aux add on's off of the main battery and replaced the positive terminal with one that has a 'bolt post' on it. I then removed the supplied 'bolt post' and replaced it with a Brass longer one. The leads on there now are: OEM fusible links, Starter cable 35mm, Winch cable 50mm, Dual Battery Feed 35mm(I'll tell you why in a minute) IPF driving lights and HID headlights.

Pic (2) Shows a bleep load of custom mods, however you are only interested in the Fuse Box and Ignition Block here. The Fuse box is fed by an 8mm cable straight off the Aux Battery Buss Bar which you will see in the next pic.

The Ignition Block is there to supply an ignition source, you know, the 'ignition source' that members keep asking about all the time. It is fed by a fused 5mm cable. One of the most invaluable 12V custom mods that I have done.

For those interested you can see to the left where I have given the ARB air locker setup the flick and made a custom mod setup to replace it.

Pic(3) Shows the Aux Bat Buss Bar which is fed by a 35mm cable which all things 12V aux/aftermarket are fed from. Includes inverter, Rear Anderson Plug, which are fused using Maxi Fuses (16mm cable).

You will also see the Dual Battery Controller there which is one of Commercial member Derek Besters from ABR.

Yes Derek, you do see a 35mm cable in and out. I intend 'firing' both batteries up next time I am winching through your Dual Battery Controller and will only report POSITIVE results. (LOL)

Oh! almost forgot. That Brake Controller circuit Breaker you can see up on the right, is powered off of the main battery. (That is just for Bonz and other picky dudes)

Pic (4) Shows the Fuse Box for the IPF & HID lights plus the winch controller whiich is directly below the fuse box.

Pic (5) Is an electrical box that built for a 4WD comp truck. Was mounted behind the Cabin and manages all the 12V operations other than the OEM 12V engine loom.

The reason I included it, is that it shows another variation of the Terminal Post and Buss Bar. I used a centre Post with a surrounding 'Buss Bar Ring' for this application. A 35mm feed cable from the battery enters through a grommet in the bottom of the box and attaches directly to the post.

The relays were switched from the cabin via a 4mm, 7wire, Trailer Cable, and exited the box via the Fuse box to their respective applications.

The Comp Truck also ran a 24V system for winching, however that is another story.

You will notice that all cables have been 'conduited' where applicable and finished off with shrink tube, which has been colour coded where required.

Hopefully this will give you a few ideas.

DD

PS

( suck it up Bonz-arelli)

Great pics DD, good to see youve moved on from hiding joins to doing them well. If you get a look under the hood of this unit guys, the wiring is reasonable top notch

Haha, and the wiring is just the beginning, plenty to gaze at under that bonnet, just when you think you've got it covered you manage to find something else under there!.

Peter

Bonz

You have to stop mentioning the Hidden Joint thing/issue and as for you Krakka, well, there is a bunch of stuff going in this week now that I have figured out how to do it.

DD

Ah! Muntoo

Your suggestions are the way to go and as you imply, the only barrier to this stuff is the limitations of ones imagination.

DD

I have done that labelling too Alastair. I have also got some of the a pair of terminals soldered in parallel if I needed to up the level of fuse to that particular link. Whacking more than 20 amps through some of those terminals potentially could weld the fuses in before burning out. I have some circuit breakers too, for defined links.

Always a good idea to put heavy duty trailer 7 core though into your cab too, saves a lot of singles and the colour traces are helpful :-))

Any job can be done neatly but the problem is most items are not fitted all at the same time hence the piggy back and mess of wiring. Forward planning is a good idea otherwise you do need to re-do many wiring connections later.

Always remember that the battery must be easy to remove so the less mess around the battery the better.

Regards

Derek

yep I agree, thanx also, that stuff from Derek is great

Rapid80

When someone takes the effort to go the 'extra mile' to conduit their cabling, shrink tube the fittings etc, etc it's a general indicator (not absolute by any means) that the subject installation will be A1.

Your use of Cooper-Bussman products is very illuminating as I have never seen them before, especially that relay,circuit breaker box.

So I am wondering (a) are you in Australia and (b) if so, where can I get a catalogue of Cooper-Bussman products that are available in Australia.

Regards

DD

R-80

Thanks for that.

I guessed as much as I hadn't seen any of that Cooper-Bussman gear hear in Australia, however, I do use the Blue Seas components which are excellent.

I'll get onto Bussman in the states and see what I can arrange.

I have been caught before with 'so-called' agents in Australia for O/S manufacturers.

They never carry the manufacturers stock and take forever to get what you want, and then think they are clever when charging grandma's gold teeth for it.

Regards

DD