Can a winch be run from a Deep Cycle <span class="highlight">battery</span>.

Yes, if you fit one or preferably 2 deep cycle/starting batteries such as yellow top optima or equivalent it should by ok.
Long periods of hi draw will knock any battery around even cranking batteries dont like it. Will shorten their over all life but shouldnt destroy them instantly.
The 60 amp charger will supply a good deal of the supply.
Would love you to start another thread to discuss your 12 volt ignition system on a 24 volt vehicle and how it come about.

One retailer I deal with says they sell hybrid cranking deep cycle batteries.

You should choose a battery that can do both tasks. Others have recommended Yellow Top but I have no experience with those.

In my long gone Prado I used to do what you plan to do.

I had two Supercharge Allrounders which are flooded combined crank/deep cycle batteries. One was a cranker, the other the auxiliary battery for the fridge, etc.

For winching I had a cabling setup where I could parallel them and winch off both. It worked well and didn't seem to harm the batteries.

As long as the battery an handle the current not a problem.

I use a single, "ordinary" 125Ah AGM to crank the 4L OKA. It does it well.
Just like continuing to crank when the motor refuses to start, a cranking battery will eventually run out of "oomph" and you will need to give it a rest. After the rest, it will crank again for 30 seconds or so.
This "running out of oomph" is simply a sign that the chemical reaction required to make the electricity can not keep up with the demand you are putting on it and the voltage drops to a point where it can not do the job asked any more. Waiting will allow it to catch up and then you can have another go.

All batteries exhibit this to some greater or lesser degree. It does them no harm.
Batteries designed primarily for cycling will have less plates (and thicker) than batteries designed primarily for cranking which have more (and thinner) plates. Less area of plates means the chemical reaction will be slower and you run out of oomph sooner. This has no effect on the total storage left in the battery. Running out of oomph does not mean the battery is flat, it's just tired and needing a rest.

And so it will be for winching.
The total current required for winching is closely related to the pull required and its pull speed. It is low at low pulls and gets higher as the winch approaches stall.
My Warn 16.5Ti (16,500lb) winch draws about 600A at stall. Cranking a diesel engine might be 400A or more. A smaller winch would typically be less.

When winching the OKA, I will typically offer as much electrical power to it as I can. I do this by locking the house batteries to the crank batteries (via a 200A solenoid) and by keeping the alternator running at a high idling speed engine and there might be up to 30A of solar helping too. I can plug the winch supply cable into the house batteries (at the rear) or into the crank batteries (at the front).

Long story short. Yes you can winch from an AGM. If the winch starts to struggle, give it a rest for a few minutes so the battery can catch up and have another go.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Thanks for all the replies - consensus is great :-)

I will work out what the winch draws and make sure the battery I end up has a CCA that covers it and an Ah rating to cover the fridge etc.

Ozziecruiser
You didn't mention the 24v alternator and the starting batteries. Yes a 60 amp DCDC will charge a 12v battery, but if winching from just one and maybe even two 12v batteries, how is the 60 amp DCDC going to keep up? Once the 12v battery/ies go flat with winching, although the DCDC is hammering as hard as it can it will heat up quickly and self limit it's output which will lengthen the recharge time of the winch battery/ies. There will be no relief for the DCDC to cool to run normally. Also if the voltage of those batteries goes down sufficiently then the Electronic ignition probably will stop until it's supply battery is charged up enough. If the ignition stops then no engine running to charge the 24v starters or the DCDC and it's 12v recipient. I would do a check to see what voltage the ignition unit will operate down to so you can gauge the likelihood of suddenly being in the poo. The only way then with engine disabled would be to have the 24v batteries to continue running the DCDC so it can bring up the 12v ignition side. Winching would have ended long before this. I would bracket a decent 12v alternator onto the engine so you can bring it into drive belt contact when required to actually do the charging for the winch. If in a spot you may require such ability. My HJ61 winch certainly depleted the batteries, two of them fairly quickly and the 100 + amp alt worked hard to bring all back again. Diesel, no ignition involved.
Just an alternative viewpoint if serious winching.

Personally for a dediated agm I would say only in an emergency stuation.

But for a general reliable set up though a cranking battery or dual purpose battery which gets their power supplied directly from the alternator only and not via a charger that is greatly limiting the power supply.

If your going to be serious about setting it up correctly for years of trouble free winching then get a 24v winch they cost around the same price as a 12v and wire it directly to the starter batteries. Then without being rude learn how to use the winch correctly and when it's time to use a snatchblock to aid in a recovery etc so you don't drain the batteres flat first time you use one then blame the winch or batteries.

I have 2 SSB 120amp batteries in my canopy for fridges but I can link to the start battery for starting and winching as they are also rated at 1000cc each.

Matt