GQ patrol clutch.

I actually read the manual after all else failed and it says to remove engine before gearbox. I was just sort of wondering if engine has to be completely removed or I could just move forward enough to get away with it. I have just rebuilt motor and something happened to clutch when refitting I think.

I tried every way I could to get it out and it just seems the firewall is in the way.

I remember way back when we needed to remove the gearbox from an Austin A70. We found you needed to disconnect the exhaust at the manifold to allow the motor to rock back to lower the gearbox to clear the firewall. Is there something that you can remove from the motor and allow the gearbox to clear the firewall?

The engine is tipped back as far as it will go. Ie rocker cover against firewall.

Like i said you can get it out ur obviously not very experienced in mechanics

But like I said the 3 litre engine is a whole different ball game. If you got it done in 3 hours you are pretty good. I'm on the floor too so much harder than on a house with a transmission jack. I'm a mechanical fitter by trade so not as hopeless as you make out. Is your car a 3 litre?

Yeah done that trick too. Done you have to slide back then drop the front first but never had to pull and engine to do it. As I said somewhere I'll get my motivation back and have another go removing transfer box first then turning gearbo??

The gearbox was supported by a windlass attached to a piece of water pipe between the front flip up vents and the rear sliding window. The standard LR method was to remove the transmission tunnel, floor and seat bases and lift the gearbox out through the cab. Series 3 and later 2As had the cross member bolted on and so removable.

Is that the old land rovers? I remember someone doing that.

Yes Series 2A and series 3, somewhere during the 2A run they made the cross member removable, maybe when the change to the Salisbury diff was made.

Or what about removing engine mount ??

Yes that will be my next option or leg it doesn't come out by rotation.

It can be removed without removing motor. It is rotated transfer shaft side down from memory...but has to be levered back to clear alignmemt lugs/pins first. Back crossmember removed completely...altho some blokes use it to pull box backwards first. engine mounts unbolted to allow a bit of flexibility...along with exhaust....and starter. A trans jack works best ...but if not on hoist then a sturdy beam under rounded part of box with jack on either side works too. I have not actually done one ....but watched from a distance as a cuppla beefy blokes did it. Oh.....n did I say they are BLOODY heavy ??

Cheers Keith

Thanks Keith. Good explanation. I have a plan now. Remove transfer box to get rid of some extra weight and make it balance better. Then rotate and pull. If still tight I might unbolt engine mounts and move engine forward a bit. ??

Thats probably a good idea to remove transfer....and then the seal(s) between box and transfer can be replaced ...leaking or not.

Cheers Keith