Jackeroo T/D Hard Starting.

Submitted: Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 09:54
ThreadID: 31197 Views:2343 Replies:5 FollowUps:3
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A cousin of mine has a current shape Jackeroo turbo diesel which at the moment can take up to 10 minutes to start.

A local mechanic has suggested that the "shaft is carboned up" ?? (I'm guessing they mean the camshaft ?? As this mechanic is not a 4wd or jackeroo specialist my cousin was thinking of taking it to a holden dealer but the mechanic said the repair may cost more than $1000.

I was going to suggest to maybe try CEM products to de-carbonise the engine. Has anybody tried it for this application with any success ??

Next, can anybody recommend a jackeroo specialist in the east or northern suburbs of Melbourne to take it to for an examination.

Thanks in Advance

John D
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Reply By: Geoff M (Newcastle, NSW) - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 10:21

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 10:21
With a statement like "the "shaft is carboned up"" your cousin is about to get shafted.

The problem didn't happen to arrive immediately after a service did it?
Get your cousin to change the engine oil and filter to EXACTLY the specification in the owners manual and see what happens.
The Jackaroo's use the engine oil in the injectors.

Geoff.
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AnswerID: 157266

Follow Up By: flappa - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 11:02

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 11:02
and to follow up on that.

Its a common problem for the O rings in the injectors to leak.

Makes starting a problem , and can also have a slight runon effect when shutting down.
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FollowupID: 411507

Reply By: Darian (SA) - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 13:55

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 13:55
Agree with Geoff re the self testing first. Would go further and suggest the second oil filter too. 10-w40 oil is the go for mild climates - you could try 5-W30 for chilly climates (it matters). With both oil filters renewed, and a new air filter too, you could give it a confident try - failing that, a specialist diesel / turbo technician seems the go. Note: You can save on the main oil filter by using the Ryco equivalent - suggest genuine for the small (despite the listing, the Ryco Z79a for the small might be tight). Also, give the mounting area for the small filter a good blast off with a hose and a dry too (air line), prior to changing that filter - there may be crud around the seal area - that filter faces down (passenger side of the donk - rear) - don't want crud in that oil gallery.
AnswerID: 157301

Follow Up By: Mr Fawlty - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 17:06

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 17:06
I agree with the remarks re the oil viscosity making starting hard. I have started using Castrol Softec 5w-40 and it works well in all climates.
I can't find a listing for the main oil filter from Ryco only the smaller one which is for the injectors. I used to be hit for $96 for the large filter until I discovered that if I produced a "written" order I could get one for trade at around $36.
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FollowupID: 411574

Reply By: disco driver - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 17:18

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 17:18
Hi John,
Had a similar problem with my Courier diesel, real bugger to start, particularly when cold.
Have you had the Heater/Glowplugs checked out?
If they are not all 100%, replace the lot (about $30 each) and eliminate one likely problem.
Cheers
Disco
AnswerID: 157320

Follow Up By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Tuesday, Feb 28, 2006 at 10:22

Tuesday, Feb 28, 2006 at 10:22
Glow plugs could be part of the problem, but also check the glow plug system if they are not working. I had a problem with the glow plug fuse and a frayed electrical connection to the glow plug bus bar.
Next step was to check the heat sensor in the block that controls the glow plug circuit.
But a glow plug check is a good place to start :-).
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FollowupID: 411760

Reply By: Craigjackaroo - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 20:08

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 20:08
Oil viscosity 5w-30 required

Glow plugs - three out of four of mine were blown get them from www.glowplugs.com.au and save an absolute bundle. They have a tendancy to get stuck so if one gets stuck don't keep going and break it like I did just leave it in. The engines will start easy enough on three. Recommend a little antisieze when putting the new ones back in.

If it has had a recent fuel filter change then there could be a small air leak otherwise the primer valves are known to occaisionally go and allow fuel to travel back when not running.

Injector O rings check radiator coolant for diesel smell or sump level for any increase in level. If diesel found to be getting into sump then don't run engine as if enough diesel gets into the sump the motor will run on and blow up. A phrase for this on these motors was "chocolate motor syndrome"
Another test for these failing is to put some clear hose in the diesel return line at the back of the head and look for bubbles in the return stream of diesel.

There was a recall in the Uk for a problem with the oil induction pipe in the sump.
This cracks or come loose allowing air into the hydraulic injector oil supply. This causes a hard start and rough running condition, another fault my Jack suffered.

Oil pressure sensor for the hydraulic injectors and a number of other sensors can also create havoc such as the flywheel for manuals and the engine crank sensor these are a less common problem

best of luck
AnswerID: 157356

Reply By: clayts - Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 23:13

Monday, Feb 27, 2006 at 23:13
Not sure what model Jack ya got but from what I been led to believe the later ones came out with 2 starting batteries for this reason.

This what I picked up from one of my earlier posts 'Jackeroo Batteries'

http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/View.asp?ForumQID=30908&Page=%2FForum%2FDefault%2Easp%3Fs%3D0%26PN%3D8

& from the overlander site

http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=36391&highlight=jackeroo+batteries

Hope this info helps so you can at least you can ask the right questions.

Clayts

AnswerID: 157414

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