100 Series Landcruiser turbo diesel

Terry,

I've had my 100s from new (Nov 04) and had no problems at all, 40k km's now.

One thing to look for would be if the suspension has been replaced. There is a known weakness with the a-arms, predominantly with TD's. It seems more of a problem if aftermarket torsion bars are fitted.

The above is an easy fix with an ARB bracket welded on when the suspension is replaced/upgraded. When looking at second hand ones check the a-arm where the weld finishes - it looks like it isn't welded to the edge - because it isn't :-) make sure there are no cracks appearing.

The only other thing is the suspension does sag a lot if getting on or carrying a big load - but getting a good suspension system makes all the difference.

Tim - Stratford.

Hi Terry,
Bought same in Jan, 2001 GXV with extras. No hassles, try and get one with the bits as they are not really any more expensive. Mine had 100k and now 135k
Was happy when I discovered the UNICHIP and 3 inch exhaust though....
Only thing I would say for these vehicles is look at the service history. Tells you whether the previous owner has taken pride in the vehicle. If you can get the 5 speed auto in preference to the 4, mine is good, just a bit clunky, the 5 is much smoother.
Ray

I've done one radiator with the fan blades on a Cape York water crossing and the second radiator has been hit as well on a shallow creek crossing in the Kosiusko NP. Luckily it passed a pressure test. Look for fan blade radiator impact damage bottom drivers side.
The front diff is known to be weak, particularly if snatching in reverse. They have also been broken by dropping a front spinning wheel hard on the ground. I understand a locker can strengthen the diff.

Firstly, I'd like to check your "Cruiser when you buy it. Mine was stolen and yours could be mine!! :)

But seriously, make sure it has a VERY capable entry alarm system on it and don't just rely on the coded key immobiliser. That's EXACTLY how mine got nicked. The coded key system ain't worth 2 bob when overriden by a professional car thief. Don't believe the nonsense that Toyotas tell ya.

Second, when trying before buying, check the brake pedal for LIGHT pulsing when you brake light to medium pressure. This could mean the brake disc rotors are warped. It's a common problem but an inexpensive fix - get 'em ground & fit new pads.

Third, if buying a manual g/box, the clutches are prone to light shuddering when driving from a standibg start, especially when cold. It seems that they all do it and ya can't get rid of it.

The usual stories about blown front diffs and cracked front wish bones abound, but if ya don't abuse it really hard, you shouldn't have a problem.

Get a wheel alignment done by a GOOD 4WD place, someonewho KNOWs how to set 'em up properly. Don't take it to Toyota. They set 'em up to Toyota factory specs and these are hopeless on highly cambered Australian roads. You'll scrub tyes out at an alarming rate otherwise.

If it's 3 to 4 years old get a High Rate Discharge Test done on the batteries and if they are weak get the car yard to replace 'em. That IHDTFE "Yota donk takes a heap of amps to crank 'em over and BOTH batteries are needed.

Check for a small "impact scratch" on the passenger rear door. If there is one then it's my old car!!

Enjoy the "Cruiser. They are a great car to drive. I miss mine something shocking.

Bilbo

I have a whiteT|D 5 speed auto for sale with lots of sensible extras if you are interested. Cheers Rob

Thanks everyone for your information. I will take it all on board when I find one.
Terry