Maralinga via Nullarbor Roadhouse

StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesNullarbor Roadhouse
FinishMaralinga
DifficultyDifficulty 3/5
Suitable for4WD AWD Bike 
Distance172.4 km
Minimum Days1
Average Speed54.87 km/hr
Driving Time3 hrs 8 mins
Article By: Stephen Langman
Page Updated: 7 Jan 2014

Description

For those that are coming in from the west or for people that are after a far more remote drive and the chance that you will be the only vehicle travelling this remote area, the drive will be at a far longer and slower pace and without a GPS or moving Map, it would be advised to take the main road in from Colona, further to the east.
From the Nullarbor Roadhouse, proceed out on the Old Eyre Highway, which will run almost parallel to the main highway for some distance, before starting to head in a northeast direction. At the required waypoint to leave the Old Eyre Highway, the track will now be a two wheel track all the way to Watson and there are no signposts anywhere along this track. Up until Disappointment Cave, the track is quite enjoyable to drive, but care must be taken not to leave the track, as there are many large wombat warrens on the edge of the track that will stop immediately and do great damage to any vehicle that falls into these very large holes.
From Disappointment Cave, the drive will be at a slower pace and care must now be focused on the many large limestone rocks that will be part of the road track. When you have the main Telstra tower in sight at Watson, which will still be more than 5 kilometres away, you will now have Telstra Next G Phone coverage all the way to Watson Railway Siding. When arriving at Watson, you will be required to ring ahead to Robin so he can be at the Security gates when you arrive. Once you are over the main Trans Continental Railway Line, you will now have the luxury of a bitumen road all the way to Maralinga Village and beyond.
Upon reaching Watson, you will be required to phone Robin, so that he can be at the security gates on your arrival at Maralinga. If for some reason Robin is delayed and not at the gates, he can be contact now either by UHF Radio on Channel 40 or via Satellite Phone.

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Environment

Nullarbor Regional Reserve, located in the far west of the State, covers an area of 2,873,000 hectares and extends from the Eyre Highway north to the Transcontinental Railway line and west into Western Australia and was proclaimed in 1989 and is one of South Australia’s largest protected areas. The reserve is a key component of the biological corridor connecting extensive intact areas from the Western Australia border to central Eyre Peninsula. The area is of great significance to the traditional owners of the land and continues to be an important connection of their living culture today.
Both the Nullarbor Regional Reserve and National Park protect many Aboriginal cultural sites associated with the world’s largest semi-arid cave landscape. There are 24 sites listed under the Aboriginal Heritage Act 1988 within the reserve, including sites still used for cultural purposes by initiated members of local Aboriginal communities.
The harsh environment, isolation and lack of available water resulted in very brief attempts to settle land in the reserve and throughout the broader Nullarbor Plain. Consequently, the reserve contains few relics of pastoral life and to date no features have been entered in the State Heritage Register.
Once you head further north and cross the Trans Continental Railway Line, the landscape take on another appearance, as the Bluebush gives way to red sand dunes that are covered in Mallee and you now enter the southern section of Australia’s largest dune desert, the Great Victoria Desert, which was named by explorer Ernest Giles in 1875 after Queen Victoria after he had undertaken a 17 day, 500 kilometre journey without finding any fresh water sources, and stumbled across a small Claypan that was full of fresh water, and ultimately saved the life of him and his party.

History

The first and original inhabitants of this area were various Aboriginal groups that formed part of the ‘Western Desert Culture Bloc’, with all groups sharing a common language with minor dialect variations and similar social and religious structures. Life revolved around small family groups living as hunter gatherers and at times of drought, would retreat to sites where a reliable source of water would be guaranteed, sometimes many hundreds of kilometres from their traditional hunting areas. One such site that was a very important meeting and trading place was Ooldea Soak or as it was known to the local Aboriginals, Yuuldul or Juldigabi.
Ooldea Soak was focal hub for hundreds of kilometres, and during times of ceremonial activities, it has been recorded that as many as up to 500 people would gather and would settle disputes, arrange marriage, trade and initiate young boys into manhood. Such ceremonies took place at Ooldea up until the early 1940’s. The first Europeans to see Ooldea Soak were 2 well sinkers, Venning and Howie who were led to the Soak by a group of Aboriginals that they had met while working in the Fowlers Bay area in 1868. The next white person to visit the soak was the local Fowlers Bay Policeman, Thomas Richards who was told about the soak by Venning and Howie when they returned to Fowlers Bay.
With the settlement of the New Colony of South Australia, there was the ever quest for cropping and grazing land, which in turn led to may visits to all areas of the state. There were a number of well-known explorers that visited the far western part of the new Colony of South Australia, but only a few that ever visited the depths of the Nullarbor Plain and the area that we now know as Maralinga.
Ernest Giles made 2 visits to the area in 1873 and 1875 in an attempt to find a way across the deserts to Western Australia, while in 1879 William Tietkens was asked by a British Businessman, Mr Louis Leisler to sink some wells north of Ooldea in the hope of finding good water and opening up the land for pastoral development. The project was a disaster and the project called off, with Tietkens returning to New South Wales in 1882. One of these wells can be visited as part of the Range Tour.
Over the coming years, the area was again visited by a number of explorers, but one person that put fame to the area and Ooldea was not a man, but an Irish woman by the name of Daisy Bates. Between 1919 and 1934 she lived in a tent around 2 kilometres north from the Ooldea Railway siding and she was a self-appointed with the aim to provide the Aboriginal people with food, clothing, simple medicines, to discourage contact of the Aboriginal women with the railway workers and to generally look after the wellbeing of the Aboriginal people in the area.
Even with all the European contact, there were still many small Aboriginal family units that continued to live a nomadic lifestyle which would all come to a very sudden and abrupt end in the mid 1950’s and an event that would for ever change the landscape and the lifestyle they were accustomed to. It all started in 1947 after the end of World War 11 and the push for Britain to be a major nuclear power when Eastern Europe became gripped in the events that were known as the Cold War.
England needed large uninhabited tracks of land well away from the preying eyes of Russia and where else but Australia could for fill all of these requirements. With the development of the Woomera Rocket Range, Emu was to become the first location for the first 2 Nuclear Bombs to be exploded on the Australian Mainland. As ideal as this location was, its sheer remoteness made the logistics of transporting material into Emu or as it was first know, Project X200 made Britain search for a location that would still be remote, but being able to have equipment brought into that new place far easier and quicker and from a reliable Transport source.
Such a location was observed from aerial reconnaissance photographs and only a short distance north of the Transcendental Railway Line. The new location for Project X300 was found and recommended and on the 17th October 1953, the site was inspected from the air by Sir William Penney, Britain’s chief nuclear scientist and the site was given the green light. By late 1954 a new township had spring up and the town was given the name of Maralinga, a world taken from the local Aboriginal people that roughly translated to “Thunder”. This new town was not going to be a short term affair, with plans set in place for the long term testing of nuclear bombs and devices for a planned life of 30 years.
By 1956 the first Nuclear Bomb was detonated as part of the Buffalo Series of testing, but by 1958 the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament was well under way with over 5000 people attending the first public meeting in February 1958 and the CND became the biggest peace and anti-nuclear movement in the United Kingdom. Had these historic events not taken place, the total number of 7 nuclear tests that took place at Maralinga could have ended up in the hundreds.
For a full run down on these events, please refer to the history of this area in the Trek Notes for the “Maralinga Range Tour”, which is an absolute must if you are making the effort of visiting Maralinga.

Important Numbers
Ceduna Police 08 - 8626 2020
Emergencies – (Police, Ambulance, Fire) 000
Ceduna Visitor Information Centre 1800 639 413
DENR Ceduna Office 08 - 8625 3144
Maralinga Tjarutja Permits Office 08 - 8625 2946
Maralinga Village 08 - 8670 4089
Nullarbor Roadhouse 08 - 8625 6271

Preparation

As with all major outback trips, careful detail must be given to your pre trip preparation. Your vehicle must be in first class mechanical condition, with special emphases on tyres and suspension. A good quality first aid kit should be carried as well as a UHF Radio which will be required when travelling with Robin on his guided Range tour, and either a HF Radio or Satellite Phone carried for reliable outside communications in the event of an emergency. The only time that you will have Telstra Phone coverage, will be when you are close to the main Trans Continental Railway Line, at Watson.

Permits

If you are only visiting Maralinga Village and the Range, then you will need to contact the Range Manager, Mr Robin Matthews who will arrange your permit to visit Maralinga. Permits will be via email and Robin’s email is:

robin.matthews@y7mail.com

If you intent to travel further afield through other approved access roads within the Maralinga Tjarutja Lands, a separate permit will be required from the Maralinga Tjarutja Permits office in Ceduna, with the permit application downloadable from this link:

http://www.maralingatjarutja.com/documents/PERMITAPPLICATION-MTLANDSTRANS.pdf

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Fuel SymbolNullarbor Roadhouse.
DieselULPLPG
4cyl 24 litres4cyl 28 litres4cyl 34 litres
6cyl 26 litres6cyl 31 litres6cyl 30 litres
8cyl 26 litres8cyl 29 litres
Usage is averaged from recorded data (* specific to this trek) and calculated based on trek distance.

Best Time To Visit

As with any remote outback travel in Australia, the ideal time to visit Maralinga is during the cooler months of the year, between April and October. Outside of these times, very high temperatures will be experienced and summer temperature can exceed 50°.
During the cooler months, you can expect cool to cold nights, while daytime temperatures can vary between mid-teens to high twenties, depending on what month you visit Maralinga.

Closest Climatic Station

Nullarbor
Distance from Trek Mid Point 78.67km SW
 JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean Max. °C27.927.826.524.821.418.818.219.622.424.326.026.7
Mean Min. °C15.716.114.111.68.96.35.15.87.910.212.414.2
Mean Rain mm11.113.221.822.429.730.227.324.517.818.216.815.3
    Best time to travel      Ok time to travel      Travel NOT recommended

Services & Supplies

The nearest major centre for all services and supplies is around 5 hours’ drive south east of Maralinga at Ceduna, on the West Coast of South Australia, which offers all major services from Medical, Mechanical as well as all types of food services. If you are coming in from Western Australia, all of your supplies would be nearly exhausted, as your last major service centre to the west is at <a class=

Map

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What to See

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This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
From Bluebush covered plains that will stretch as far as the eye can see, to gentle red sand dunes covered in dense Mallee trees, the Maralinga area borders the Nullarbor Regional Reserve and then enters the Great Victoria Desert. As you head out past the Ooldea Range, the country will again change and as you enter the area where the forces unleashed by the testing of Nuclear weapons, Bluebush and native grass will dominate the landscape. See where early explorers tried in vain to find water in the hope of opening up this vast outback area into rich pastoral lands.

Showing 2 Places

Where to Stay

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This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
Nullarbor Roadhouse has all types of accomodation, from Motel Rooms through to a basic Camping area. If you intend to camp out along this track, be warned that there is no timber at all and any wood for campfire must be carried in with you. At Maralinga there are very large areas where you can set up camp, with toilet and shower facilities on site.

Showing 1 Places

Directions

LocationsDistanceDirection Time
Nullarbor Roadhouse to Watson Turn Off - Old Eyre Highway14.56 kmNE63° 16 min
Watson Turn Off - Old Eyre Highway to Old Fence Line8.72 kmN18° 10 min
Old Fence Line to Old Vermin Proof Fence4.51 kmN4 min
Old Vermin Proof Fence to No 6 Bore (abandoned)19.44 kmNE40° 20 min
No 6 Bore (abandoned) to Disappointment Cave5.01 kmNE67° 4 min
Disappointment Cave to Un Named Cavern25.81 kmNE29° 24 min
Un Named Cavern to Watson Railway Siding51.63 kmN15° 55 min
Watson Railway Siding to Warning Sign - Now Entering Maralinga Tjarutja Aboriginal Lands0.9 kmNE35° 1 min
Warning Sign - Now Entering Maralinga Tjarutja Aboriginal Lands to Caravan Track Junction11.9 kmNE29° 12 min
Caravan Track Junction to Yalata Turn Off3.27 kmNE29° 3 min
Yalata Turn Off to Maralinga Warning Sign1.06 kmNE34° 1 min
Maralinga Warning Sign to Blow hole0.94 kmN1 min
Blow hole to Oak Valley Turn Off11.27 kmN357° 12 min
Oak Valley Turn Off to Maralinga Security Gates6.49 kmN14° 6 min
Maralinga Security Gates to Maralinga6.88 kmNW324° 7 min
Nullarbor Roadhouse to Maralinga172.4 km  3 hr 8 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.

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