Battery Charging

Submitted: Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 12:21
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Hi guys,

I've read a few threads on simiar issues and am a little confused. I have a dua battery set up which has a solenoid between the started battery and the auxiliary battery in the vehicle.

When we tow the camper van the van battery is connected to the auxiliary via an anderson plug with a fuse between them.

This system has worked ok for the past couple of years, however after reading all the forum information I am now concerned about whether I should be using the DC - DC chargers or whether I should put all the batteries on the smart charger at home because the alternator on the Prado is not doing a proper job.

Should I have the DC-DC chargers or should I use the smart charger at home to keep the batteries in top condition.

Thanks
Geoff
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Reply By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:16

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:16
Hi Geoff,

this depends on how often you're near a 240V power outlet.
If you get access to one regularly, I'd use a mains powered charger.
If you're out and about for most of the time, then you should consider DC/DC or solar.
But it also depends on how deeply you discharge the batteries on a regular basis.
What type of batteries? AGM, flooded, gel?

cheers, Peter
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Reply By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:29

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:29
G'day Geoff,

You don't say what model Prado you have. I don't know what the alternator system on the 90 series did, but the 120 Series present the low output problem. I have a 120 Series and have dealt with this.

First up, I'd recommend you keep your auxiliary and camper batteries topped up on the mains powered smart charger as a matter of course. If they're not in use, top them up every month or so.

Personally, I think it's best practice to use a DC-DC smart charger for your two extra batteries, regardless of the alternator output. That way your batteries are getting exactly what they need for best life.

The 120 Series Prado charging system is notorious for its low output, down to 13.2 volts once the engine battery has come up and the system has warmed up. Other manufacturers have or are following suit in their later models.

13.2 volts might get an AGM or deep cycle battery up to about 80% charge. If that's all it ever gets, it will gradually sulphate. Sulphated batteries lose capacity. For a start you will never get that 20% back and secondly, the sulphation will slowly increase so that your battery gradually loses capacity untill it's useless.

The trouble is, it's insidious - the battery looks like it's ok because on light loads it continues to work, but put a heavy load on it and it will run flat sooner and sooner as the condition progresses. It will appear to re-charge, but the load on it will tell the story. Eventually, even with a light load it will just die.

You might get three years life out of it, maybe less, whereas a well cared-for AGM battery could last 6 years.

If you can afford it, my recommendation is to install a dc-dc smart charger for each extra battery.

PM me if you like

Cheers

Frank
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Follow Up By: Joe - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 17:19

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 17:19
Thanks Frank.

So in the case of a dual battery system and a third battery in the camper you'd set it up as:

1) Starting battery input to the charger and output from the charger to the "fridge" battery.

2) "Fridge" battery input to the charger and output from the charger to the camper battery.

Correct?
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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:25

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:25
Hi Joe,

Nearly correct.

BOTH should be powered from the starting battery/alternator, as in 1).

My setup, explained elsewhere on this forum is:

Redarc SBI isolator cuts in shortly after engine start. This supplies both the car charger for the "fridge" battery AND the camper charger, which then go about independently charging their own batteries.

A discussion about cable size to make it happen would be appropriate here, but I just wanted to answer your question.

Cheers

Frank

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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:59

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:59
Sorry, Geoff, I don't know where I got the idea you had a Prado.

But in any case, the principle applies to many of the newer vehicles.

Cheers

Frank
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Follow Up By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 19:42

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 19:42
Probably here Frank. Your not going senile,lol.
"This system has worked ok for the past couple of years, however after reading all the forum information I am now concerned about whether I should be using the DC - DC chargers or whether I should put all the batteries on the smart charger at home because the alternator on the Prado is not doing a proper job. " Bob.



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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 19:45

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 19:45
Your not going senile,lol.

Yes, I bloody am!!!!

F

I feel a bit better and a bit worse now :-)
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Reply By: The Original JohnR (Vic) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:30

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:30
Geoff it depends if you are using much of your battery power and the type of battery in your camper. If you deplete your battery far with your camping the Prado will take ages to charge it. I mean ages, as they are renown for dropping back the available voltage to batteries when the engine warms up.

The beauty of the DC - DC charger is that it can use the low voltage as supplied to it and the main start battery and output a potential 14.4v that can charge your camper more quickly. With the battery bank I had in the Kimberley, it was the only way I could ever see a day to day 100% charge from the 100 Series.

I have a switch in my charge line as I also can charge my secondary battery in the car with the Ranox
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Reply By: TerraFirma - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:51

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 13:51
Hi Geoff, I think Peter from battery Value summed it up perfectly. My initial comments would be that you aren't having any problems at the moment but you have become concerned for the long term reliability of the batteries. If you are not regularly discharging the batteries to a dangerous level then the alternator issue isn't as critical. Top the batteries up with a high quality 240v mains charger regularly and you'll be fine. If you are going to put more load on the batteries consider solar as Peter mentions.
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Reply By: kiwicol - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 16:26

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 16:26
Hi Geoff,

I would suggest you first learn how your alt works, no standard alt in any vehicle will charge any battery to 100% of its capacity.

A smart charger is also a good investment.

Col.
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:35

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:35
Geoff, are you saying that even starting batteries are never fully charged by an alternator?
Kevin
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Follow Up By: Member - Kevin S (QLD) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:36

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:36
Sorry, that question should have been addressed to Col.
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Follow Up By: kiwicol - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:58

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:58
Geoff, yes thats right, alts arnt designed to fully charge a battery as they have no way of reading what charge is in the battery.

The only way to fully charge a battery is with a smart charger or a solar panel set up.
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Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:51

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 18:51
Hi Geoff,

Unless your cable run from the primary battery and isolator through to your auxiliary battery is inadequate, the chances are your auxiliary battery in the rear of your Prado is getting a good charge.
I agree with Peter that a charging routine using an AC charger is good practice from time to time to ensure full charging of the auxiliary battery.

The battery or batteries in your camper however, extend the distance considerably and this is where a dc-dc charger will ensure a full charge to this remote battery bank.
The dc-dc charger boosts the voltage received to an optimum level, then applies a multi-stage charging routine to these batteries while travelling.

It would be beneficial to also use an AC charger on the camper batteries from time to time, to ensure a thorough charging process is applied to prolong battery life.

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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:16

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:16
Hi Sand Man

"Unless your cable run from the primary battery and isolator through to your auxiliary battery is inadequate, the chances are your auxiliary battery in the rear of your Prado is getting a good charge."

No, mate, not in the case of a later model Prado - ie 120 and 150 Series. And, I'm told, in an increasing number of new generation soft-roaders and 4WDs.

13.2V from an alternator (ie, Prado output) will not provide a good charge to a lead-acid battery. It will provide enough charge to keep an auxiliary battery useable on a trip, but the battery will die a premature death unless regularly fully charged by some other means.

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Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:38

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:38
Frank,

Thanks for the clarification on the Prado's charging voltage.
I wasn't aware the alternator output was that poor.

I guess I'm used to an alternator that outputs 14.2v or thereabouts.

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Reply By: Geoff H (Q - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:42

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 20:42
Thanks guys,

I was originally of the opinion that my Alternator was charging all my batteries to 100%, and because I have never had any battery problems I was happy with that knowledge.

I have an Arlec automatic 5000 battery charger at home for Lead Acid batteries at 12.4 Volts, hope that will give close to 100% charge.

There is a c-tek charger which came with the van so I'll top up all the batteries on a monthly basis from now on while I research a new system for the whole setup.

I have a 20 watt solar panel which might be ok for maintaing the van battery.

Plenty of research to do now that I've started this.

Regards
Geoff
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Follow Up By: Mick O - Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 22:50

Tuesday, Nov 29, 2011 at 22:50
A couple of handy blogs on the subject that may be of some assistance.


DC-DC Charger and Battery Management System


Electricity for camping



Cheers Mick


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Reply By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:06

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:06
Hate to upset anyone but an Alternator can fully charge a car battery, infact if not operating correctly can well overcharge a destroy it.

A standard Alternator (pre heavily compensated) will output around 14.2V ~ 14.5V. This is approximately the same as a smart charger will output for the bulk charge.

The only time you need to exceed this is if the battery cells need to be equalised and this would not normally be the case for a battery in constant use and in good condition. Charging the battery with a smart charger that has an equalising function (most don't) every 6 months so will overcome this issue.

Devices are available to increase the output voltage of todays heavily compensated Alternators.

As for DC DC chargers, they have their place but in most normal setups can be more of a liability than advantage adding more complexity and lengthening recharge times.

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Follow Up By: Geoff H (Q - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:38

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:38
Thanks Leigh,

One of the things that raised the issue with me was when I read that the Prado alternator had a low output. I'll check all the batteries from time to time now and see how much charge I get in them. My old voltage test was if the beer's cold the battery's ok, maybe it's time to get a bit more serious.

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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:53

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 09:53
Hi Geoff,

If its not broken don't fix it! However if you determine you need to increase the output voltage of your Prado there are inexpensive devices that will increase its output voltage, do a web search for "alternator voltage booster"

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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:04

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:04
Geoff,

Be wary of that last suggestion. Yes, you can put a diode or something somewhere in the alternator system and raise its output voltage.

BUT find out what effect that will have on all the electronics and computers in the vehicle. The Prado's alternator output is controlled by the engine management system. If you artificially raise it at the alternator so it's outside specs there may be unforseen consequences.

Also, if you're going to measure the output from your charging system, do a few tests. Right after start with a cold engine my Prado puts out over 14V, so you might be tempted to think think all is well. But as the start battery comes up and as the engine warms, the output fairly quickly drops to around 13.2V

Which brings me back to the point above about diodes. If you put a diode in that raises the output by, say 1.2V from 13.2 to 14.4, then when a cold system is putting out 14.3, say, the diode will be raising that to 15.5.

That's higher than Toyota's engineers designed the electronics for. Be very very careful.

Frank
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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:30

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:30
Geoff,

If you do some research you will find the devices I have mentioned do not raise the Alternator voltage higher the the Toyota specs for the Prado, the voltage always remains within the range specified by Toyota for the Prado ie 13.2V - 14.5V

The devices mostly affect the lower voltage range after the temperature compensation kicks in.

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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:54

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 10:54
Hi Leigh,

I just did the search you suggested, and you're right, the ones I looked at only boost 0.3 to 0.5V.

The 1.2V I referred to was applied by the (licensed) installer of a very expensive system. I was warned off it by an electronics engineer.

I'm wondering that once the engine has warmed up with these diode devices the voltage would be sitting on about 13.5 to 14, depending if the lift was 0.3 or 0.5 and depending where the alternator settled.

14V, while heaps better than 13.2, is still not enough to properly charge a typical deep cycle auxiliary or camper battery. Typically, you need 14.4 in the absorption phase, which may be needed for some hours before float is applied. 14.0 won't do it,, but it 's better than lower voltages.

Some batteries (eg a Supercharge calcium-calcium) need over 15V in absorption, so 14 is nowhere near enough. True, you can buy a battery to suit your charging system, but how many people do that and how many sales people take that approach in recommending a battery to their customer?

Cheers

Frank

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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:15

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:15
Hi Frank,

In a typical Prado the charge voltage will be 14.2V - 14.4V, ambient around 25C.
depending on the charge state of the battery and accessory load.

In hotter weather the voltage will reduce as per the normal temperature compensation built into the regulator to protect the battery.

Few cars as yet have been designed to properly charge calcium batteries, it was believed in the early development that a standard charging system would severely shorten the life of a calcium battery. It has been found that this is not the case and that calcium batteries even if only charged to 80% - 90% most of the time survive quite well. In fact all batteries these days employee calcium in the construction to some extent as it reduces gassing.

You should also consider a optima type battery as they require less voltage to fully charge and take a bulk charge off an Alternator a lot quicker than other types of batteries. Also if you intend to go off road the physical construction of these batteries stands up a lot better to bumps and bangs which is the main killer of a battery in a car.

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Follow Up By: kiwicol - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:31

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:31
Leigh,
If you understood how an alt works you will know that it cannot fully charge a battery to its 100% of capacity, this is by design. Alt cannot read the amont of charge in a battery at any given time.
You can change an alt to put out its full capacity constantly, as christie generators have done. You have to control and watch this system manually.

An alt puts out the higher voltage to charge battery use from start up, then slowly reduces to a trickle for general use.

Col
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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:50

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:50
Col,

Your assumption is incorrect, all modern Alternators run as a constant voltage source ie their output voltage is set at around 14.2V.

The Alternator will always try to maintain this voltage no mater what load is applied ie in a Prado 5A - 80A.

Having said that all Alternators also employee temperature compensation, as the temperature in the engine bay goes up and the battery warms up the alternator will gradually reduce its output.

This has no affect on battery charging as as the battery heats up it requires less voltage to fully charge and hence the reason temperature compensation is built into the regulator.

At least that was until recently, in some current models the temperature compensation has been increased well beyond what is needed to protect the battery. This increase has been brought about by changes in emission laws overseas.

To meet these reduced emission requirements the car manufactures have considerably increased the alternator temperature compensation as to lower the load on the engine at idle, it has nothing to do with maintaining the battery.

Thus on these models the alternator will provide a sufficient battery charge to replace what was taken out of the battery during starting and the reduce the charge voltage to lower the load on the engine at idle etc.

Alternators prior to the current generation had no troubles fully charging a battery and have done so for the past 60 years or so, after all thats what they were designed to do!

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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:55

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:55
Hi Leigh,

"In a typical Prado the charge voltage will be 14.2V - 14.4V, ambient around 25C. depending on the charge state of the battery and accessory load."

I have to take issue with the first part of your statement. It is not as simple as that.

I have a 120Series 2007 D4D diesel Prado. Immediately after start with a cold engine the voltage is around 14.2 to 14.4. AS the battery comes up, which is quick, just a few minutes, the voltage quickly drops to below 14.0

As the system "normalises", ie temps, state of charge of the crank battery, load, etc all settle down, the voltage drops to 13.2 to 13.4 area. I know because I've measured it and the designer of my DC-DC charger has data-logged it. Disco 3s do similar but in a more sophisticated way. Hiluxs and late model Pajeros do something similar to the Prado - all data-logged by this guy.

Prados earlier than mine might do as you say, but from late 2006 I believe they all behave as mine does and charging second and third batteries from the vehicle needs to take that behaviour into account.

Cheers

Frank
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Follow Up By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:00

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:00
Leigh, just to respond to a point in your follow-up to Col,

What you say is correct, but the charging system is doing what its told by the crank battery and ECU.

The other batteries, with different requirements, in different environments, don't get a say in what is going on, which is why I believe they need their own charger powered from the charging system but whose output is totally independent from the charging system output.

Poor Geoff, are you confused, mate?

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Frank
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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:01

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:01
Forgot to add, any battery will fully charge as long as its terminal voltage is raised above its fully charged open terminal voltage.

Granted it may take a considerable time at 13.8V but it will fully charge, this is basic chemistry.

What most people in these in these discussion confuse is it is not fully charging the battery that is the issue, it is how quickly you can replace the charge that has been taken out.

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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:04

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:04
Frank agree,

DC DC chargers do have there uses, but in most typical setups are just not required.

If you however do have batteries requiring vastly differing charging requirements
then yes they may be the way to go.

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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:06

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:06
"I have to take issue with the first part of your statement. It is not as simple as that.

I have a 120Series 2007 D4D diesel Prado. Immediately after start with a cold engine the voltage is around 14.2 to 14.4. AS the battery comes up, which is quick, just a few minutes, the voltage quickly drops to below 14.0

As the system "normalises", ie temps, state of charge of the crank battery, load, etc all settle down, the voltage drops to 13.2 to 13.4 area. I know because I've measured it and the designer of my DC-DC charger has data-logged it. Disco 3s do similar but in a more sophisticated way. Hiluxs and late model Pajeros do something similar to the Prado - all data-logged by this guy.

Prados earlier than mine might do as you say, but from late 2006 I believe they all behave as mine does and charging second and third batteries from the vehicle needs to take that behaviour into account. "

Sorry Frank,

Was referring to a vehicle with a booster diode fitted.

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Follow Up By: kiwicol - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 14:58

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 14:58
Leigh,
In a round about way you are saying exactly what i stated.

Once the start up usage has been replaced and the voltage drops to a trickle, with the normal power consumption the vehicle uses the alternator will not take the battery up to its 100% capacity.

The alt has no way of reading the charge of the battery thats why it has its own bult in regulator reading its own heat to lower its power out put, not what the battery needs.

If what you say is true how does the alt know when the battery is fully charged ( 100% ) and needs to know when to stop charging the battery.

Col
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Follow Up By: olcoolone - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 15:14

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 15:14
Leigh aren't you the guy who sell these crude voltage increasing devices (diode) on Ebay so in other words your self advertising your product?

Haven't you done this on other forums?

I think you may be in breach of the forum rules.





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Follow Up By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 16:07

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 16:07
olcoolone,

I was just letting Geoff know there are alternatives to DC DC chargers, I did not specifically mention my device just that devices are available of which there are more than mine on the market.

If members can't be informed of what's available in the market place how will can they make informed decisions?

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Reply By: LeighW - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:18

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 11:18
Correction all batteries these days use calcium and ultra pure lead grid plates as they offer greater mechanical strength and lower gassing.

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Reply By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:22

Wednesday, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:22
Geoff,

And, perhaps lastly :-), this car charging need to be kept in perspective.

If you do a lot of touring, away from 240V for long periods, then your car needs to be the functional equivalent of a mains charger so that from time to time you can fully charge the batteries. Depending on how much has been taken out of the batteries, a 6 hour drive could hopefully be the euivalent of overnight on the mains.

If, on the other hand, you only drive a couple of hours to a few favourite spots, or base-camp for long periods so that you don't drive often, then what the car does is less important. For that you need solar and/or generator with a mains powered smart charger.

Cheers

Frank
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