Wentworth to Renmark via Old Coach Road

Wentworth to Renmark via Old Coach Road Follow the old stock route that was once used by the ‘Overlanders’ who brought the very first stock to Adelaide overland from New South Wales. Rich with Aboriginal and European history, this trek will take you back in time to some rather turbulent years.
StartClick to Reverse the Dynamic Map and Driving NotesRenmark
FinishWentworth
DifficultyDifficulty 1/5 Suitable for4WD AWD Bike 
Distance166.95 kmMinimum Days1
Average Speed54.87 km/hrDriving Time3 hrs 2 mins
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Rating Be the first to rate this item0 Reviews
Article By: Member - Stephen Langman
Page Updated: 16 Feb 2010

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Description

The Old Coach Road offers travellers an opportunity to visit an area that is very rich in Aboriginal and European History. More importantly, it follows the first tracks put down to bring greatly needed stock into the New Colony of South Australia in 1838 by Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney. The back drop to this area is Australia’s largest River, The Murray. Important then and still today, the Murray and its backwaters offers people the chance to camp and to enjoy the peace and solitude of the Riverland, yet within easy reach of all major centres.

Anyone that loves water activities, do not leave home without your canoe or kayak. These tranquil waters offer some of the best and safest waters to paddle where you can guarantee that you will be the only person on the water. From large red sand dunes, forests of large River Red Gums, through to dense lignum scrublands of the backwaters and billabongs, the Old Coach Road offers everything that you would expect from an outback trip.

How to Use this Trek Note

The idea of a Trek Note, is that we provide a recommended route to explore an area with point-to-point guidance and extensive trip planning information about when to go, what to see, and where to camp. However, all the facts and data files are available should you prefer to build your own route/itinerary.

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Click on the "What to See" & "Where to Stay" tabs to see more about each Place that the route follows. Click each listed Place to open a separate page (and download for Members only) to enrich your understanding of the area.

A text list of Place to Place distances (see Directions tab) is given, plus you can download the route file to load into your GPS/Navigator. Go to our shop to obtain the complete EOTreks Route Files download.

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Environment

The most important factor in this area is the Murray and its wetlands. Much of the area on the South Australian side of the border is covered in the Chowilla Game Reserve, which in turn is part of the Chowilla Regional Reserve, which is part of the greater Riverland Biosphere Reserve, which is registered under the UNESCO Man and Biosphere program.

In early 1993, the 18400 hector Chowilla Game Reserve and the 75600 hector Chowilla Regional Reserve were constituted as Wetlands of International Importance. The Environmental Values of these floodplains are unique to this section of the Murray Basin, as it is substantially undeveloped and it is the only section of country approaching “Wilderness” status along the lower part of the Murray River. The Conservation values of Chowilla as shown by the rare and endangered species found there and are recognized by its listings as a Wetland of International Importance under the Ramsar Convention. Australia has 40 sites of approximately 4.5 million hectors. Worldwide, there are over 30 million hectors of wetlands in approximately 60 countries. Australia was the first Nation to become a Party of the Ramsar Convention.

Over 200 species of birds have been recorded in the area, with around 20 species classified as rare, vulnerable or endangered, including the critically endangered black eared miner. The most common mammals in the area are the Red Kangaroo and the Western Grey Kangaroo. The Grey Kangaroo is more sedentary and does not move as widely as the Red Kangaroo. Small mammals also include the Common and Fat-tailed Dunnarts, Southern Ningaui and the small Little Pied Bat and the Greater Long-eared Bat. Around 45 reptile spiced have been recorded, including goannas, dragons, skinks, geckoes, snakes and tortoises.

History

Early European

On the 3rd April, 1838 when the new Colony of South Australia was just a mere 16 months old, Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney arrived in Adelaide with a herd of 335 head of cattle, becoming the first of “The Overlanders”, with the first stock ever to be taken overland from New South Wales. Prior to this, all livestock that was brought into South Australia was by ship, either from Tasmania or the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa.

Heading off into uncharted country and guided only to what lay ahead with maps that were produced by Captain Charles Sturt and Major Thomas Mitchell, Hawdon and Bonney and a team of nine men set an initial course to follow Mitchell’s River Yarrane (the Loddon).By doing so, they hoped to have water for the cattle in a smaller River, and thus avoid contact with Aboriginal people along the Murray, who were reported as hostile. Being January, the Yarrane was almost dry; so they were forced to retreat to the Murray and its reliable source of water. By the 1st March 1838, the party reached the junction of the Murray and the Darling Rivers and the site of today’s town of Wentworth. Three days later, they discovered a lake….about thirty or forty miles in circumference and named it Lake Victoria in honour of Queen Victoria. Also in the vicinity they came across the Rufus River, named by Captain Charles Sturt, the first white man to discover the outlet in 1830 from Lake Victoria, after his friend, McLeahy’s Red hair.

Continuing to follow the Murray further west, they made a few more important discoveries and within a month, were dining with the Governor of South Australia at a Public Dinner to celebrate the safe arrival of the first herd of cattle to be overlanded from New South Wales. The contacts reported with the aboriginal along the way were peaceful and both sides exchanged goods, the aboriginals exchanging nets and weapons in return for tomahawks and pieces of clothing. The way was now set for a safe and reliable overland track to bring the much needed stock into the new Colony of South Australia, but the peaceful meetings with the local aboriginal people would soon change and would culminate in a bitter battle in 1841.

Rufus River

The Rufus River is the outlet from Lake Victoria to the Murray River. While crossing livestock at this point the overlanders had their parties separated and at their weakest. On Sunday 20th June 1841, Overlanders Miller and Langhorne and their party of 9 men had just crossed their provisions and drays over the Rufus when they were surrounded by over 500 Aboriginals. Reloading the drays, the Aboriginals rushed forward and commenced throwing waddies. The Overlanders only had 6 muskets with them and 2 would not go off. The Aboriginals then soon began throwing spears and the whites then commenced firing at the Aboriginals. The battle lasted for about twenty minutes, with the resulting death of 5 Aboriginals and 4 Overlanders.

On the 31st July 1841, a relief party of 29 Europeans and 3 Aboriginals were sent from Adelaide for the purpose of a safe escort of another party of Overlanders led by William Robinson who had left Gundagai on the 1st July 1841 and that were due at the Rufus soon with over 6000 sheep, 500 mixed cattle, horses and drays. On the 26th August and near the Rufus, Robinson’s part was attacked by a group of up to 300 Aboriginals. Robinson’s well armed group of 25 men beat off the attack with the death of 15 Aboriginals. By the 27th August, the relief party of Police and volunteers had arrived at the “crossing”. Dr Matthew Moorhouse, Protector of Aborigines with the help of 3 Aboriginal Interpreters, tried earnest attempts to placate the situation, but the local Aboriginals would have none of it. While stock was being crossed over the Rufus, the Aboriginals, again in the many hundred advanced towards the group. Fearing that there would be great casualties and all the whites would be murdered, the relief party opened fire on the Aboriginal when they were at a distance of 100 yards. The official death count for the 2 days conflict with the Aboriginals was 35, but more may have died from wounds received from the gunfire. It was this conflict that made Australian History and is now known today as “The Rufus River Massacre”.

RAAF

Also of importance to Lake Victoria, is that it was also used by the RAAF’s 2 Operational Training Units as a training ground during World War 11. 6 fatalities resulted from these activities and to this day, 2 Airman and their aircraft remain missing in the lake bed of Lake Victoria.

Town of Wentworth

The present day town of Wentworth lies at the junction of the Murray and Darling Rivers. European occupation of this area dates back to the 1840’s and has had many names including Hawdon’s Ford, the Darling Junction and McLeod’s Crossing. The arrival of the Paddle Steamer era brought a new importance to this area and in 1857, Surveyor General Barney considered it time to establish a proper township and the town site was approved in 1859 and named after the New South Wales explorer and politician William Charles Wentworth on the 21 June 1859. Wentworth was fast to become the busiest inland port in New South Wales and during 1895; there were 485 paddle steamers that past through the Customs House, with a record of 31 steamers in 1 week.

Helping to keep this Riverboat era alive, various local community groups from the Wentworth area have banded together and have been restoring the PS Ruby that is located in Fotherby Park. Many thousands of volunteer hours have given the Ruby a new hull and the steam engine is now operational. Surviving various events over the past 100 years let us all hope that she will see yet another 100 years, if at a more leisurely pace.

Modern European

In Fotherby Park, you will see a life size statue of the last true Riverland identity, “Possum”. David James Jones was a mystery man and turned his back on society in 1928 to live almost entirely off the land as a recluse along the banks of the Murray River, mainly between Wentworth and Renmark. Who was this man and what did he do? There were many rumours about this mystery man, he had murdered his wife and family, was wanted by the Police and hiding out in the bush. The rumours were many and varied. They were all wrong and very far from the truth, as Jim, as he would like to be called, was a quiet and caring man.

In August 1954, Detective Max Jones was transferred from Adelaide Criminal Investigation Branch to Renmark. On his first full day off of work, Max took his family for a drive and followed the Old Coach Road to the Old Scab Inspectors House. Taking his children for a walk to the creek, he spotted a well built man dressed in khaki. When this mystery man spotted Max and his family, he quickly turned away and walked into the creek. Max called out to this man, but Possum ignored his calls and swam across the creek and then disappeared into the bushes on the other side, without looking back.

Being a Detective, Max became very suspicious of this man and over many years of Detective work, found out the true story of this man from the South Island of New Zealand. It was not until October 1959 that Max finally came face to face with Possum. A special bond developed between these two men, and Max had many contacts with Possum over the years. Sadly Possums body was found by woodcutters in August 1982 on the Victorian side of the Murray near Lock 8. At the age of 81 and after 54 years of travelling the Murray country, Possum died the way he liked to be, alone and by him self and was buried in a private cemetery on a nearby station, under a Box Gum. So ended an era of the Riverland’s last true Legend, and today, locals still talk of “Possum” and the stories that created this true Legend.

Map

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Preparation

For detailed checklists & advice regarding remote area travel, you are strongly encouraged to read the following articles: 4WD Driving Skills & Rules; What to Take; Recovery Gear Needs; Spare Parts and Tools; Food & Water; Water Tank; Long Range Fuel Tanks; Suspension; EPIRB; HF Radio; UHF Radio; Satphone; Staying in Touch as well as Travel Etiquette; Care for the Environment; Snake Bite Treatment; Outback Survival; & Driver Fatigue.

Official track reports are reviewed weekly and you'll always find the latest report in the ExplorOz Road Conditions section.
Both Towns of Renmark and Wentworth offer all major supplies and mechanical repairs. As there are no services along the Old Coach Road, makes sure that you have a full tank of fuel and basic tool kit and all gear that you would usually carry for any outback trip. In the event of wet weather, check with local authorities for track conditions, as this road, like all outback tracks is closed if very wet weather. For reliable and safe communications, either Satellite Phone or HF Radio. The new NextG Phone network will work in a few spots along the way, but do not rely on this for emergency help.

Permits

This track is all public access land with no fees payable, except if you wish to camp within the Chowilla Game Reserve or Calperum Station.

Fuel Supplies & Usage

Fuel SymbolRenmark, Wentworth Diesel4cyl 23 litres ULP4cyl 27 litres LPG4cyl 33 litres
6cyl 26 litres6cyl 30 litres6cyl 29 litres
8cyl 26 litres8cyl 28 litres

Best Time To Visit

This area can be visited any time of the year, but to make the most of this and enjoy the best that this area has to offer, avoid the very hot weather.

Closest Climatic Station

Lake Victoria Storage
Distance from Trek Mid Point 12.79km NW
 JanFebMarAprMayJun JulAugSepOctNovDec
Mean Max. °C 32.131.628.423.5 19.015.715.317.2 20.423.727.330.3
Mean Min. °C 16.516.514.010.5 7.75.85.36.1 8.110.613.215.3
Mean Rain mm 19.519.414.618.1 23.723.124.923.7 24.127.323.720.7
    Best time to travel      Ok time to travel      Travel NOT recommended

Services & Supplies

The following locations have various services and supplies: Renmark, Wentworth

What to See

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Save time and download all digital map data for this trek (all places are included in the trek download).
This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
All outdoor activities including fishing, camping, walking, bird watching, and canoeing. The Junction of Australia’s two great Rivers, The Darling and the Murray, Fotherby Park, Old Wentworth Goal, Perry Sandhills, Rufus River, Lake Victoria, Cal Lal Gate, Todd Obelisk, Calperum Station, PS Industry Paddle Steamer Cruise Renmark.
There are a total of 13 place entries

Renmark - SA

Populated Place Town Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park River Crossing Walk Track Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel
Large town on the River Murray with all facilities including a large resort style caravan park as well as bush camping along the river.
Position: -34.17484 140.74619 Altitude: 24m PlaceID: 44931 Updated: 20 Dec 08 17:51

Renmark Paringa Visitor Centre - SA

Point of Interest
Start any great trip from this very easy to locate Tourist Information Office on the banks of the Murray River in Renmark....
Position: -34.17222 140.7503 Altitude: 26m PlaceID: 78702 Updated: 25 Apr 09 18:55

Parking and Information Bay - SA

Point of Interest
These structures are made from rammed earth and explain the features of the area.
Position: -34.05833 140.6897 Altitude: 33m PlaceID: 78700 Updated: 05 May 08 15:39

Timber Reserve - NSW

National Parks,Reserves
This is a good example of how quickly the terrain changes along the Old Coach Road. From here until the state border, this is the type of country you are travelling through.
Position: -33.97917 141.1214 Altitude: 57m PlaceID: 78693 Updated: 05 May 08 16:02

Rufus River & Lookout - NSW

Camp Free Toilets Water Supply Point of Interest
A small shelter shed, with seating overlooking Lake Victoria, which was first discovered and named by Joseph Hawdon on the 4th March 1838. Also near this area,...
Position: -34.03944 141.26531 Altitude: 35m PlaceID: 78692 Updated: 05 May 08 17:30

Water Discharging Dam - NSW

Water Catchment Reserves Point of Interest
This large structure is where water is pumped from Lake Victoria into the Rufus River, which is fed into the Murray River.
Position: -34.04833 141.2769 Altitude: 28m PlaceID: 78691 Updated: 05 May 08 15:00

Causeway (Rufus River Road) - NSW

Point of Interest
This causeway crosses the very lower section of Lake Victoria.
Position: -34.05528 141.3381 Altitude: 29m PlaceID: 78690 Updated: 21 Nov 12 13:33

Cement Bridge (to Lock 8) - NSW

River Crossing Point of Interest
This cement bridge crosses a small creek, but a locked gate barred the way to view Lock 8.
Position: -34.10583 141.42329 Altitude: 33m PlaceID: 78689 Updated: 05 May 08 18:48

Perry Sandhills - NSW

Point of Interest
Geologists believe that these Sandhills originated after the last Ice Age, 40,000 years ago. Wind erosion over thousands of years has created this large dune system north west ...
Position: -34.09945 141.8683 Altitude: 38m PlaceID: 78686 Updated: 10 Feb 11 10:07

Old Wentworth Gaol - NSW

Point of Interest
Built between 1879 – 1881, this single story brick gaol with bluestone trim was designed by colonial architect James Barnett....
Position: -34.1025 141.9139 Altitude: 39m PlaceID: 78683 Updated: 22 Sep 09 21:05

Murray River & Darling River - NSW

Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Point of Interest
It is at this junction that the town of Wentworth began. The first white person to visit this spot was Captain Charles Sturt on the 23rd January 1830....
Position: -34.11111 141.91 Altitude: 39m PlaceID: 78682 Updated: 15 Nov 10 13:40

Fotherby Park - NSW

Point of Interest
In Fotherby Park is a life size statue of the last true Riverland identity, Possum. Also in the park is the Paddle Steamer Ruby which has restored with the help of local ...
Position: -34.10604 141.92325 Altitude: 38m PlaceID: 78681 Updated: 18 Dec 08 17:45

Wentworth - NSW

Populated Place Town Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park River Crossing Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel Point of Interest
Originally named Hawdon's Ford, it was surveyed in 1858 and named Wentworth in 1859 after the Australian explorer, journalist and politician William Charles Wentworth....
Position: -34.10431 141.9165 Altitude: 38m PlaceID: 49217 Updated: 27 Oct 09 15:47

Where to Stay

DownloadDownload Trek
Save time and download all digital map data for this trek (all places are included in the trek download).
This list may not be complete for the entire region. Places listed here are directly located along the plot file associated with this Trek Note. You can locate other nearby Places by browsing the map or searching Places.
There are a total of 3 place entries

Renmark - SA

Populated Place Town Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park River Crossing Walk Track Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel
Large town on the River Murray with all facilities including a large resort style caravan park as well as bush camping along the river.
Position: -34.17484 140.74619 Altitude: 24m PlaceID: 44931 Updated: 20 Dec 08 17:51

Rufus River & Lookout - NSW

Camp Free Toilets Water Supply Point of Interest
A small shelter shed, with seating overlooking Lake Victoria, which was first discovered and named by Joseph Hawdon on the 4th March 1838. Also near this area,...
Position: -34.03944 141.26531 Altitude: 35m PlaceID: 78692 Updated: 05 May 08 17:30

Wentworth - NSW

Populated Place Town Service Station,Roadhouse Caravan Park River Crossing Rubbish Bin,Tip Fuel Water Supply Toilet Pub Food,Shopping Water Body,River,Stream,Falls Camp Fee Police Station Medical Services Resort,Motel Point of Interest
Originally named Hawdon's Ford, it was surveyed in 1858 and named Wentworth in 1859 after the Australian explorer, journalist and politician William Charles Wentworth....
Position: -34.10431 141.9165 Altitude: 38m PlaceID: 49217 Updated: 27 Oct 09 15:47

Directions

LocationsDistanceDirectionTime
Renmark to Renmark Paringa Visitor Centre 0.54 km NE 53°
Renmark Paringa Visitor Centre to Main Wentworth Rd & Cooltong Ave 9.09 km NW 319° 9 min
Main Wentworth Rd & Cooltong Ave to Renmark North 2.12 km N 20° 2 min
Renmark North to Parking and Information Bay 4.01 km N 356° 3 min
Parking and Information Bay to Main Wentworth Rd & Calperum Station Access 0.19 km N 15°
Main Wentworth Rd & Calperum Station Access to Old Coach Road, SA-NSW Border (Cal Lal Gate) 41.11 km NE 64° 40 min
Old Coach Road, SA-NSW Border (Cal Lal Gate) to Old Coach Road & Main Wentworth Road 14.38 km E 111° 16 min
Old Coach Road & Main Wentworth Road to Timber Reserve 1.4 km SW 213° 1 min
Timber Reserve to Rufus River & Lookout 20.78 km SE 117° 19 min
Rufus River & Lookout to Water Discharging Dam 1.51 km SE 133° 2 min
Water Discharging Dam to Causeway (Rufus River Road) 6.4 km E 98° 6 min
Causeway (Rufus River Road) to Rufus River Rd & Lock 8 Access 10.66 km SE 123° 10 min
Rufus River Rd & Lock 8 Access to Cement Bridge (to Lock 8) 0.46 km SW 225°
Cement Bridge (to Lock 8) to Rufus River Rd & Lock 8 Access 0.46 km NE 45°
Rufus River Rd & Lock 8 Access to Main Wentworth Rd & Rufus River Rd 23.47 km E 85° 21 min
Main Wentworth Rd & Rufus River Rd to Main Wentworth Road & Perry Sandhills Access 19.04 km E 92° 15 min
Main Wentworth Road & Perry Sandhills Access to Perry Sandhills 1.01 km S 187° 1 min
Perry Sandhills to Main Wentworth Road & Perry Sandhills Access 1.01 km N 1 min
Main Wentworth Road & Perry Sandhills Access to Silver City Hwy & Main Wentworth Road 3.71 km E 89° 3 min
Silver City Hwy & Main Wentworth Road to Old Wentworth Gaol 1.73 km S 164° 2 min
Old Wentworth Gaol to Murray River & Darling River 1.45 km S 201° 2 min
Murray River & Darling River to Fotherby Park 1.73 km NE 65° 3 min
Fotherby Park to Wentworth 0.68 km W 287° N/A
Renmark to Wentworth 166.95 km     3 hr 2 min
Distance is GPS recorded driving distance (not straight line), Direction is straight line from start to end, Time is calculated from actual GPS driving data.

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